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#1
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Wildflowers for acid soil.
Hi Everyone,
In early June I asked people here about fox-gloves: whether I should let them rage through my garden or not. As a result of the replies I learnt I am extremely lucky: deep purple fox-gloves want to pop up EVERYWHERE in my garden while other people with different environments can barely encourage a few to take root. Things have moved on. My lawns are large and sloping, sometimes steeply, and cutting them, even with the blades always at high level, is extraordinarily exhausting as well as demanding three hours every two weeks! So I have started to combine the above two factors. Last weekend I mowed only a series of nicely curving paths through my grass and I am going to let the rest grow wild like the adjacent farmland. Thistles will dock will no doubt eventually appear and I will just cut them out, but wild-flowers I want to encourage. My soil is quite acidic. English Nature recommends twenty or so wildflowers for acidic soil. Over the next few years I intend to insert them as "plugs" higgledy-piggledy into small holes in the lawn. The proper method to create grassland is to completely remove your lawn (!), till the top few inches of remaining soil, de-nutrify it as much as possible for a few years by planting it with Yellow Rattle, and then sprinkling it with a mixture of all the wildflowers and wild grasses that love acid soil. Well, I cannot be doing all that. Too expensive an operation for one thing. I would love to hear from anyone else who has tried (and hopefully succeeded) in turning the odious task of lawn-mowing into enjoyment of a profusion of simple wild flowers. Below is English Natures recommended list of wild flowers for acid soil. Ellie. ---------------------------- 1. wild flowers which germinate easily over a wide range of conditions: oxeye daisy leucanthemum vulgare, butter cup ranunculus acris, yarrow achillea millefolium, self-heal prunella vulgaris. 2. wild flowers suitable for acid soils: Campanula rotundifolia Centaurea nigra Hieracium pilosella Hypericum pulchrum Hypochaeris radicata Leontodon autumnalis Plantago lanceolata Potentilla erecta Potentilla sterilis Rhinanthus minor Rumex acetosa Rumex acetosella Stachys officinalis Succisa pratensis Vicia cracca * = legume (use native strain only) Viola riviniana* = legume (use native strainonly) Lotus corniculatus * = legume (use native only) |
#2
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Nell wrote:
The proper method to create grassland is to completely remove your lawn (!), till the top few inches of remaining soil, de-nutrify it as much as possible for a few years by planting it with Yellow Rattle, and then sprinkling it with a mixture of all the wildflowers and wild grasses that love acid soil. Well, I cannot be doing all that. Too expensive an operation for one thing. The ideal start point for a wildflower meadow is sub soil as left by many new house builders! If you try to do it on a fertile lawn it is more than likely that the flowers will be out competed by the grass. The proper method is the proper method for good reason! pk |
#3
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In article , Nell
writes My soil is quite acidic. English Nature recommends twenty or so wildflowers for acidic soil. Over the next few years I intend to insert them as "plugs" higgledy-piggledy into small holes in the lawn. The proper method to create grassland is to completely remove your lawn (!), till the top few inches of remaining soil, de-nutrify it as much as possible for a few years by planting it with Yellow Rattle, and then sprinkling it with a mixture of all the wildflowers and wild grasses that love acid soil. Well, I cannot be doing all that. Too expensive an operation for one thing. Perhaps, but your plug plants will struggle if your nutrient levels are too high. Grasses, dandelions love a high nutrient situation and will out-compete most other things. Be prepared for a long slog! Very roughly, you need to decide on whether you want a spring meadow - mow from July onwards, keeping about 6 inches high - or a summer one - mow in September. Spring meadow plants include bulbs and low growing plants which will struggle in the long grass of a summer one - cowslips, for example, do not seem to thrive in long grass. The big blue geranium and Centaurea nigra seem to be happy in long grass, able to compete well, and relatively untroubled by slugs. oxeye daisy leucanthemum vulgare, slugs like these yarrow achillea millefolium, and this. I've completely failed to esatblish it. self-heal prunella vulgaris. Not very tall - think it would struggle in a summer meadow. Campanula rotundifolia suscepible to slug damage, and I don't think it will cope with long grass. Centaurea nigra Good and showy. Hieracium pilosella Is this the orange one? Seems to be going well at the moment, but time till tell. Vicia cracca * = legume (use native strain only) This is happy in long grass -- Kay "Do not insult the crocodile until you have crossed the river" |
#4
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Kay wrote:
[...] Hieracium pilosella Is this the orange one? Seems to be going well at the moment, but time till tell. [...] Aaaarrggh!!! I hope it isn't syn. Pilosella aurantiacum, but I fear it is. A few treasured plants in my wildflower lawn spread seed like good'uns; I, in loco proud parentis, let some grow on in flower-beds, till I realised what I'd done. The wild-flower field guide didn't mention the runners... I love the thing; but not in captivity. -- Mike. |
#5
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"Nell" wrote snip I would love to hear from anyone else who has tried (and hopefully succeeded) in turning the odious task of lawn-mowing into enjoyment of a profusion of simple wild flowers. I've got an area of grass and wild flowers with mown pathways, although unlike you we started from scratch on a plot that had been part of an arable field and sowed a recommended grass mix. I've found the plug plant system works well and is less wasteful of seed. If you grow a few trays of seeds and plant out when you have some sturdy plantlets, they will happily multiply themselves once established. Also you can collect your own seed and add more where you need them. IME it's a good idea to take of a small area of turf rather than try and plant through it, then the young plants get a chance to take hold before the grass closes in again. Can understand you not wanting to have to take off all the turf initially. Even on a poor soil (mine is light and sandy) you'd be surprised how vigorously the grass can grow when left to its own devices tho', so one thing you could do after you take off the last mowing is to give the area a good old raking to take out as much thatch as possible and expose a bit of the soil, then seed it with yellow rattle which is parasitic on grass roots. That should reduce top-growth and the competition with your flowers. If there's a specialist wildflower nursery near you they are usually a good source of invaluable advice and inspiration for varieties to try. It's very rewarding; I love my wild garden. Good luck with yours! :-) -- Sue |
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