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#1
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questions about drymix mortar (for patio)
I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the
right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling block. I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if so what ratio). Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also have to decorate the kitchen........ Many thanks, Iain |
#2
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The message
from Iain Robinson contains these words: I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? Save yourself a lot of grief, do it the proper way first time. www.pavingexpert is run by an ex-urgler expert with a national reputation for the quality of his professional work. He does award-winning work for the National Trust etc. Having followed his excellent website advice myself I can absolutely recommend it; you can also ask for personal help via his website iirc. Janet. |
#3
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"Iain Robinson" wrote in message ... I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling block. 1:4 is OK, you could go for a weaker mix if you like. Sharp sand is OK too. I don't know what advantage could be gleaned from using soft sand in this application. Soft sand is usually used for bricklaying or pointing as it makes the mortar 'handle' well. Am I correct in assuming that by 'drymix' you mean that you lay down a dry mortar mix, place the slabs on top, then let atmospheric moisture set it over time? If so, then its wet properties won't even be an issue. Sharp sand gives a stronger material, which is not so easy to manipulate ( in a wet mix state ) as mortar made with soft sand. If you have to use sharp sand ( because you have lots of it lying around! ) for wet work i.e. bricklaying or laying slabs on a wet solid bed of mortar, a little plasticiser in it will improve its workability tremendously. I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if so what ratio). Never use pure cement on its on. It will crack. Use 1:4 again. The highest ratio you can use is 1:3, but this is a strong mix, and is only suitable for stone walls etc. 1:4 is plenty strong enough to keep sand fro escaping your patio. To give you some idea of mix ratios, 1:3 is the strongest useful mix, 1:4 is OK for mortar, 1:5 is an appropriate mix concrete made with 3/4"-to-dust ballast and you can go down to 1:6 in low strength applications ( behind a firegrate as infill etc. Any weaker and it will get sandy over time in exposed areas. Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also have to decorate the kitchen........ Many thanks, Iain Remember that cement is as caustic as oven cleaner, wear gloves, especially if you are using it wetmix, otherwise you won't have any skin on the tips of your fingers at the end of the day. Andy. |
#4
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"andrewpreece" wrote in message ... "Iain Robinson" wrote in message ... I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling block. 1:4 is OK, you could go for a weaker mix if you like. Sharp sand is OK too. I don't know what advantage could be gleaned from using soft sand in this application. Soft sand is usually used for bricklaying or pointing as it makes the mortar 'handle' well. Am I correct in assuming that by 'drymix' you mean that you lay down a dry mortar mix, place the slabs on top, then let atmospheric moisture set it over time? If so, then its wet properties won't even be an issue. Sharp sand gives a stronger material, which is not so easy to manipulate ( in a wet mix state ) as mortar made with soft sand. If you have to use sharp sand ( because you have lots of it lying around! ) for wet work i.e. bricklaying or laying slabs on a wet solid bed of mortar, a little plasticiser in it will improve its workability tremendously. I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if so what ratio). Never use pure cement on its on. It will crack. Use 1:4 again. The highest ratio you can use is 1:3, but this is a strong mix, and is only suitable for stone walls etc. 1:4 is plenty strong enough to keep sand fro escaping your patio. To give you some idea of mix ratios, 1:3 is the strongest useful mix, 1:4 is OK for mortar, 1:5 is an appropriate mix concrete made with 3/4"-to-dust ballast and you can go down to 1:6 in low strength applications ( behind a firegrate as infill etc. Any weaker and it will get sandy over time in exposed areas. Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also have to decorate the kitchen........ Many thanks, Iain Remember that cement is as caustic as oven cleaner, wear gloves, especially if you are using it wetmix, otherwise you won't have any skin on the tips of your fingers at the end of the day. Andy. Oh, and make sure your patio slopes a little ( away from the house ) in order to avoid pools of atanding water. 1:60 is often mentioned as a reasonable slope. Andy |
#5
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The message
from Iain Robinson contains these words: I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? It depends how strong the mortar needs to be. 4:1 will set *VERY* hard. If I were doing the job I'd use hoggin, or if it was really necessary, mix the sand cement at (say) 10:1 or weaker. Lay the sand or drymix flat, then scoop out a shallow hollow in the middle of where the block should be, amounting to about half the area of each slab. Yhis allows you to tamp down the slabs till they are all level, and IMO, a bit of cement in the sand helps maintain the level, unless you are a - ahem - paving expert. I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? Knowing Cormaic (from posts here) the proprietor of pavingexpert.com, I'd say he was. If it should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling block. I'd ask Cormaic if I were you. I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if so what ratio). Yes, a nice touch, and also tends to prevent mice etc undermining it. If I were doing it I'd extend the rubble base enough to make a retaining wall one brick high, either flat or on edge. You may then use your 4:1 mortar mix to lay the course so it doesn't fall apart in no time. Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also have to decorate the kitchen........ They're not dumb questions at all - if you've never done it, how would you know? -- Rusty Emus to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co full-stop uk http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/ |
#6
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Iain Robinson wrote:
:: I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the :: right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a :: bit more clarification please. :: :: After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay :: the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right :: ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp :: sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends :: that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it :: should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have :: already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do :: with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we :: were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling :: block. :: There's little difference in using soft or sharp sand in this instance, and 4:1 is a very strong mix for laying slabs on, I'd suggest 10:1 - you aren't sticking them to anything, merely providing a semi-hard base, note the use of the word 'semi' - you want water to be able to drain through - any pooled water underneath or around the flags will cause all manner of problems when it freezes, this is one of the reasons for good drainage....they used to just lay them on sand and many firms still do, especially for patios and paths, cement sometimes gets used under driveways, but even these are often done on a bed of sand. Another point; you say 'drymix'? - you aren't mixing it in the conventional way? - IE with a mixer or by hand? - none of this is needed, all you need to do is rake your sand level, throw on a sprinkling of cement and rake it into the bed, about 2KG of cement per metre, meaning you will get 12M out of one bag of cement and this is strong enough to run cars on. :: I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the :: patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as :: the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if :: so what ratio). :: Don't use pure cement as it's hideous when dried, a mixture of around 4:1, but mixed in the conventional way, (with a drop of fairy liquid [1] for plasticising) is more than adequate, you can do this the day after your flags are all down, just go around the edges with a bucket of mortar and a trowel, not forgetting to leave the surface below that of the flags, so that you can fill in with bark or chippings if you want, the only problems I can forsee doing it this way is that it may hold the water if you do it completely, to counteract this, go along it with a garden fork and puncture a few holes through after you have finished and prior to dressing with stones/bark. :: Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this :: week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio :: having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also :: have to decorate the kitchen........ Mmmm...beer....! BTW - A week? - how big is it?.....doing it on your own, you should be able to screed (get your sand/cement base ready) and lay about 30 sq m per day..... [1] Don't bother buying mortar plasticiser unless you intend doing a lot of building, you don't need anything in the screed, but in the mortar for the edges, use about a teaspoonful of W-U-L per bucketfull of mortar (about 4 shovels of sand and one of cement - *don't* overdo it on the cement, a common mistake by those not accustomed to working with it!) HTH -- If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. |
#7
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Phil L wrote:
Iain Robinson wrote: :: I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the :: right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a :: bit more clarification please. :: :: After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay :: the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right :: ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp :: sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends :: that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it :: should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have :: already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do :: with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we :: were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling :: block. :: There's little difference in using soft or sharp sand in this instance, and 4:1 is a very strong mix for laying slabs on, I'd suggest 10:1 - you aren't sticking them to anything, merely providing a semi-hard base, note the use of the word 'semi' - you want water to be able to drain through - any pooled water underneath or around the flags will cause all manner of problems when it freezes, this is one of the reasons for good drainage....they used to just lay them on sand and many firms still do, especially for patios and paths, cement sometimes gets used under driveways, but even these are often done on a bed of sand. Another point; you say 'drymix'? - you aren't mixing it in the conventional way? - IE with a mixer or by hand? - none of this is needed, all you need to do is rake your sand level, throw on a sprinkling of cement and rake it into the bed, about 2KG of cement per metre, meaning you will get 12M out of one bag of cement and this is strong enough to run cars on. :: I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the :: patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as :: the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if :: so what ratio). :: Don't use pure cement as it's hideous when dried, a mixture of around 4:1, but mixed in the conventional way, (with a drop of fairy liquid [1] for plasticising) is more than adequate, you can do this the day after your flags are all down, just go around the edges with a bucket of mortar and a trowel, not forgetting to leave the surface below that of the flags, so that you can fill in with bark or chippings if you want, the only problems I can forsee doing it this way is that it may hold the water if you do it completely, to counteract this, go along it with a garden fork and puncture a few holes through after you have finished and prior to dressing with stones/bark. :: Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this :: week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio :: having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also :: have to decorate the kitchen........ Mmmm...beer....! BTW - A week? - how big is it?.....doing it on your own, you should be able to screed (get your sand/cement base ready) and lay about 30 sq m per day..... [1] Don't bother buying mortar plasticiser unless you intend doing a lot of building, you don't need anything in the screed, but in the mortar for the edges, use about a teaspoonful of W-U-L per bucketfull of mortar (about 4 shovels of sand and one of cement - *don't* overdo it on the cement, a common mistake by those not accustomed to working with it!) HTH Thanks Phil. It's not big (much less than 30 sq m) but being completely new to all this and having a 3 year old under our feet will no doubt slow us down, hence the more conservative time frame. |
#8
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Iain Robinson wrote:
I posted here earlier in the week and some kind souls pointed me in the right direction, clarifying what I should lay my patio on. But I need a bit more clarification please. After whacking down my sub-base I am putting down a drymix mortar to lay the slabs onto. It seems one part cement to four parts sand is the right ratio - correct? I had read that the sand for patio work should be sharp sand (as it 'locks' in place) but I see that pavingexpert.com recommends that soft sand be used for mixing up mortar. Which is correct? If it should be soft sand what would the result of using sharp sand be? I have already ordered the (sharp) sand. I went through what we wanted to do with someone at the builders merchant and he seemed to agree that we were on the right track, so hopefully this is not our first stumbling block. I was also recommended to put down extra cement at the sides of the patio to keep the sand in - should this be pure cement (put down dry, as the mortar?) or just a mortar mix with a higher ratio of cement in (if so what ratio). Apologies for the dumb questions but this is all new to me. I have this week off work this week to do this - I want to be sitting on the patio having a beer by Friday. In any spare moments during the process I also have to decorate the kitchen........ Many thanks, Iain Thanks to everyone for their replies - I'm adjusting my drymix accordingly. One more question however - as I'm using a drymix to lay the slabs onto do I deliberately wet the patio to set the process off or just let nature take it's course? Also, I'm wondering if I have to not walk on the patio for longer than normal. 24hrs was mentioned but that may not have been for a drymix base. I've seen wetting the finished slabs recommended to help 'settle' it all in but wonder if there are any issues with this on a drymix base? As ever, any advice appreciated. Iain |
#9
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In article , Iain Robinson writes: | | Thanks to everyone for their replies - I'm adjusting my drymix | accordingly. One more question however - as I'm using a drymix to lay | the slabs onto do I deliberately wet the patio to set the process off or | just let nature take it's course? Also, I'm wondering if I have to not | walk on the patio for longer than normal. 24hrs was mentioned but that | may not have been for a drymix base. I've seen wetting the finished | slabs recommended to help 'settle' it all in but wonder if there are any | issues with this on a drymix base? Well, one of the reasons that I laid on sand and use a weak drymix for grouting, is that it makes it easy to fix problems. If you are in ANY doubt about getting it right first time, don't cement anything down that you don't have to. No, slabs laid on sand (and even on many soils) don't shift - if you do it right. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
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