Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.
Thanks
- - - -
Mike Peters




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In article ,
Mike wrote:
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.

Well, I know that this is a FIR (Frequently Ignored Response), but
why on earth do you want such a thing?

For light and infrequent use, a bow saw is cheaper, safer, more
reliable, quicker (overall) and often less effort. Now, there ARE
things that a chainsaw will do effectively, but neither a bowsaw
nor a billhook will, but not many.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Mike wrote:
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.

Well, I know that this is a FIR (Frequently Ignored Response), but
why on earth do you want such a thing?

For light and infrequent use, a bow saw is cheaper, safer, more
reliable, quicker (overall) and often less effort. Now, there ARE
things that a chainsaw will do effectively, but neither a bowsaw
nor a billhook will, but not many.


sorry must beg to differ a chainsaw is much better and quicker

Mike wrote in message ...
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.


I noticed in a local ag. supplier that it was necessary to
produce certificates in order to buy a chainsaw.

--
Anton

"anton" wrote in message ...
I noticed in a local ag. supplier that it was necessary to
produce certificates in order to buy a chainsaw.

I'm not sure that's a legal requirement - Just guessing they're covering their own backs.
AFAIK a certificate is mandatory for anyone using a chainsaw at work but Joe Public can cut his legs off in his own
garden and doesn't need a certificate to do so.
Although most of us above a 'certain' age learned without the benefit of proper training I wouldn't recommend it. I had
to get certified eventually anyway to train and supervise others.

Rod

OnFri, 7 Mar 2003 17:55:24 +0000 (UTC), "anton"
perspired gently and wrote:


Mike wrote in message ...
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.


I noticed in a local ag. supplier that it was necessary to
produce certificates in order to buy a chainsaw.

--
Anton

I have a chainsaw certificate, and have used only "professional" saws
costing £400 + as part of my job.
My big bro wants a chainsaw (who am I to judge) and I wondrerd if
anyone here had used a much cheaper saw and found it reliable?


- - - -
Mike Peters




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Recently purchased a Husqvarna 141 after ages of struggling with a bow saw.
Right tool for the job and all that and some jobs do require the power a
chainsaw brings (and consequent saving in time not to mention the pulled
muscles........er........providing you don't cut yer foot off!!!!!). In my
case I had to straighten up some long neglected pollarded willows with
'shoots' up to 10" in diameter. The Husqvarna dealt with them with ease.
Wouldn't be without it now.

Light and reliable for infrequent use? Sounds like the Husqvarna 136. Have a
look he

http://www.husqvarna.co.uk/node234.asp

Also see:

http://www.chainsawspecialists.co.uk/chainsaws.htm

The 'being asked for a certificate' nonsense........er......that's exactly
what it is. Buy, be safe, enjoy!

Good luck - Tony





"Mike" wrote in message
...
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.
Thanks
- - - -
Mike Peters




Drop the DROPME to reply by Email

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I have a chainsaw certificate, and have used only "professional" saws
costing £400 + as part of my job.
My big bro wants a chainsaw (who am I to judge) and I wondrerd if
anyone here had used a much cheaper saw and found it reliable?

Most of us around here use Stihl or Husquavarna at work, but I've Also used
Dolmar(now Makita) for many years. Low end of any of those ranges should be
fine - they tend to call them farmers' saws or similar.
Not many *really* bad saws being made now, I would probably still steer
clear of McCulloch. Not sure if Homelite and Remington are still around - I
would avoid those if they are. (showing my age here ;~(( ).
I work in a woodland garden and the chainsaws are indispensable.
Lend big brother your safety kit or better get him to buy his own.

Rod

sorry must beg to differ a chainsaw is much better and quicker

I've used a bow saw and still Do, for up to 4 inches cutting, but with
several trees to chop up the chainsaw makes life much easier. BUT
REMEMBER TO GET A SHARPENING FILE!!!
For the occational tree, I cut down around three a year, I've bought a
MAC335 (petrol) there is also a MAC 335 electric, strangely the chains
are different!!!
Very reliable sits in the garage most of the time. Costs around
130pounds B+Q have them (and the sharpening file kit)amoungst others.
If I was doing it for a Living I'd get a Husquvarna but they cost a
LOT more...

The Q

Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article ,
Mike wrote:
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke
chainsaw. A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.

Well, I know that this is a FIR (Frequently Ignored Response), but
why on earth do you want such a thing?

For light and infrequent use, a bow saw is cheaper, safer, more
reliable, quicker (overall) and often less effort. Now, there ARE
things that a chainsaw will do effectively, but neither a bowsaw
nor a billhook will, but not many.


Huge big grin
There speaks a man who doesn't have one. :-)
I have one. And there are several tree trunks (up to 10 inch diameter)
growing close to buildings and through concrete, on a run down
property that I would never have cut down without many bruised
knuckles had I chosen the 'blood sweat and tears' method.
Like many two stroke petrol engines, they can be a bit problematic on
starting. But once you have the revs up, its like a knife through
butter.
I wouldn't want to get into the 'My one is better than yours' argument
but,
my model, which has done all that I have asked of it, is a McCulloch
MacCat 435, 14" model.

--
ned

(Mike) wrote in message ...
Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke chainsaw.
A 12" bar would be fine.
Looking for a relaible model for light and infrequent use.
Thanks
- - - -
Mike Peters




Drop the DROPME to reply by Email

Mike....A Champion.I got one from Focus a few years ago.
They do spare bits and chains too.Don't use any chainsaw
solo.........ex jobbing gardener,Cambridge

OnFri, 07 Mar 2003 12:50:50 GMT,
(Mike) perspired gently and wrote:

For a FIR ("Frequently Ignored Response" or if you are involved with
flying, not to be mixed up with a "Flight Information Region") you all
did me proud with your advice.
I am biased toward the Huskys as that is the make we use, and you
advise the reliability follows down to the lesser models.

I remember my neighbour heaving his fairly new McCulloch across the
garden because of continual starting problems.

The Husky 136 sounds right.
Thanks
- - - -
Mike Peters




Drop the DROPME to reply by Email

"Mike" wrote in message
...
OnFri, 07 Mar 2003 12:50:50 GMT,
(Mike) perspired gently and wrote:
The Husky 136 sounds right.
Thanks
- - - -
Mike Peters

It just occured to me that the person who was told they needed a certificate
to buy a chainsaw may have been showing interest in one of those little top
handled saws that tree surgeons use. A reputable dealer would certainly not
sell one of those to a stranger without some evidence of competence - indeed
I think that may be a legal requirement. Those saws are only to be used by
certificated operators under strictly regulated circumstances. ie up trees
only - never on the ground. The certificate is an extra module taken in
addition to the ones assessed for general chainsaw operations.
Like a lot of things these days starting problems aren't like they used to
be. Modern saws are rarely difficult in that department unless they are
badly maintained or the user has managed to thoroughly flood the thing. IME
the most important thing about choice of brand, and this is for all types of
machines not just saws is to choose a dealer who will give you the service
and support you will surely need. Find that good dealer - there are some
around and buy what he sells and services.
Ask him what models he sells then never sees in the workshop.

Rod

(Mike) wrote:

Hello Mike

M Can anyone guide me regarding the purchase of a two stroke
M chainsaw.

Not many four strokes around these days.

M A 12" bar would be fine. Looking for a relaible
M model for light and infrequent use.

Like you, I've only used the professional range. I won't touch
electric chainsaws as I think they're bloody dangerous.

But the same rules should apply - basic safety stuff, inertia chain
brake and catcher being the main things. 2stroke engines generally
have improved a lot over the past 20 years and most give good service,
even the cheapies. Jonsered, Sthil and Husqvarna have good names, but
beware - they all make crap models too. Partner are ok - ish, prolly
ok for light use. Something around 40cc is light and powerful enough
for most uses, but if logging then add another 10cc's to that.

As you use them yourself, you're probably in a good position to judge
yourself. Just think if you could use it for a full day without
getting annoyed with it.

Build quality? Guarantee should cover that.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK Ý http://www.digdilem.org/