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#1
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Seedlings fail to thrive
When I grow vegetables from seed, they nearly always germinate quickly,
but stop growing once they've produced their first true leaves. They sit like this (no matter how long I wait) until I plant them out, whereupon they rush forward again. I'm sure this isn't right. I had been wondering whether my use of peat-free compost was at fault, as it doesn't seem to hold water at all, so this year I mixed in some perlite. However, it didn't seem to have much effect. The only plants that don't seem to be affected in this way are peas and beans, though they don't generally get left for very long in the pot in any case. Since they are nitrogen-fixing, does this mean that the compost is not nutritious enough for other seedlings? They don't seem to get big enough to be using much of it though. I don't want to use peat if I can avoid it. Once I tried mixing the compost with rotted manure (got a 25kg bag from the garden centre), but that didn't seem to help either. What do people recommend? Rhiannon |
#2
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"Rhiannon Macfie Miller" wrote in message ... When I grow vegetables from seed, they nearly always germinate quickly, but stop growing once they've produced their first true leaves. They sit like this (no matter how long I wait) until I plant them out, whereupon they rush forward again. I'm sure this isn't right. I had been wondering whether my use of peat-free compost was at fault, as it doesn't seem to hold water at all, so this year I mixed in some perlite. However, it didn't seem to have much effect. The only plants that don't seem to be affected in this way are peas and beans, though they don't generally get left for very long in the pot in any case. Since they are nitrogen-fixing, does this mean that the compost is not nutritious enough for other seedlings? They don't seem to get big enough to be using much of it though. I don't want to use peat if I can avoid it. Once I tried mixing the compost with rotted manure (got a 25kg bag from the garden centre), but that didn't seem to help either. What do people recommend? Rhiannon Switch to a John Innes seed compost (soil based) we use peat free compost, but not for seed, and there are some perennials that don't like it either (e.g. geraniums) but fortunately all the climbers and especially the clematis love it, we do however put in a lot of slow release fertilizer! -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs) |
#3
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"Rhiannon Macfie Miller" wrote in message ... When I grow vegetables from seed, they nearly always germinate quickly, but stop growing once they've produced their first true leaves. They sit like this (no matter how long I wait) until I plant them out, whereupon they rush forward again. I'm sure this isn't right. I had been wondering whether my use of peat-free compost was at fault, as it doesn't seem to hold water at all, so this year I mixed in some perlite. However, it didn't seem to have much effect. The only plants that don't seem to be affected in this way are peas and beans, though they don't generally get left for very long in the pot in any case. Since they are nitrogen-fixing, does this mean that the compost is not nutritious enough for other seedlings? They don't seem to get big enough to be using much of it though. I don't want to use peat if I can avoid it. Once I tried mixing the compost with rotted manure (got a 25kg bag from the garden centre), but that didn't seem to help either. What do people recommend? Rhiannon Rather than "recommend" will tell what I do with great success.....I use a commercial seed starting medium which basically has very little food value but is sterile and germination could not be better....from the very first watering after germination I water with a weak solution of Miracle Grow and thereafter include the weak solution whenever watering until the seedling are about three weeks old. Then I increase the strength of the solution slowly. Example...Miracle Grow suggests watering at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of water with it being used every two weeks or so.....do we feed ourselves every day or so....in the beginning mix 1/4 teaspoon per gallon and use with every watering....in about three weeks when the seedling are reasonably well established increase the strenght to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon and continue with this strength and with every watering for another couple of weeks or so and then go to 1 teaspon per gallon and continue at this strenght until planting out time..HW |
#4
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Charlie Pridham wrote:
"Rhiannon Macfie Miller" wrote in message ... When I grow vegetables from seed, they nearly always germinate quickly, but stop growing once they've produced their first true leaves. They sit like this (no matter how long I wait) until I plant them out, whereupon they rush forward again. I'm sure this isn't right. Switch to a John Innes seed compost (soil based) we use peat free compost, but not for seed, and there are some perennials that don't like it either (e.g. geraniums) but fortunately all the climbers and especially the clematis love it, we do however put in a lot of slow release fertilizer! Thanks for this. John Innes compost plus fertilizer seems to be the way to go. I'll try it out at the start of next year. Rhiannon |
#5
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I disagree. I do use (peat based) seed compost for delicate flowers and
the like but I find veg seed are pretty strong and just sow it into peat free compost - or even old recycled compost. I think the secret is probably a continual supply of water - without waterlogging. This year i sowed two module trays of brassicas. One did really well - and i have planted them out. The others are all short and slow growing. There is one difference - the ones that did well were sitting in a tray with no drainage holes, the poorly ones were in a tray with drainage holes. |
#6
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wrote in message oups.com... I disagree. I do use (peat based) seed compost for delicate flowers and the like but I find veg seed are pretty strong and just sow it into peat free compost - or even old recycled compost. I think the secret is probably a continual supply of water - without waterlogging. This year i sowed two module trays of brassicas. One did really well - and i have planted them out. The others are all short and slow growing. There is one difference - the ones that did well were sitting in a tray with no drainage holes, the poorly ones were in a tray with drainage holes. I've had similar experience of potted-on seedlings of Salvia and Chinese Lantern sitting for ages in peat-free compost without growing, and looking a bit pale. I fed them with an organic pot-plant fertiliser earlier this week and they've all sprung into life again. I've also noticed that the water running through peat-free composts is VERY brown, it's obviously washing something out very quickly. Duncan |
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