I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.
Tom Atkinson

"Tom Atkinson" wrote in message
...
I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.
Tom Atkinson

Tom.,

This site shows you exactly how to to take and propagate your cuttings:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/basic...cuttings.shtml

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

The message
from "Tom Atkinson" contains these
words:

I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.

I take cuttings of old wood in the early spring - 100% successfully.

Cut halfway between nodes, keeping a length with two nodes, and bury
one/some horizontally an inch or so deep. Keep moist, and you can expect
two growing-points from each cutting.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

"Tom Atkinson" wrote in message
...
I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.
Tom Atkinson

Well I expect about 100% to root after 21 days, the earlier you take them
the better as its the next bit which is more difficult (getting them to grow
on) I normally lose a few during their first year. the more established they
are before winter the less likely you are to lose them. rooted cuttings need
a years growing on before moving to their final size container and a further
6 months or so in that before planting out. a well established root system
is very important.
If you have bottom heat start in February if not wait till May/June.

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

In article , Charlie
Pridham writes

"Tom Atkinson" wrote in message
...
I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.
Tom Atkinson

Well I expect about 100% to root after 21 days, the earlier you take them
the better as its the next bit which is more difficult (getting them to grow
on) I normally lose a few during their first year. the more established they
are before winter the less likely you are to lose them. rooted cuttings need
a years growing on before moving to their final size container and a further
6 months or so in that before planting out. a well established root system
is very important.
If you have bottom heat start in February if not wait till May/June.



Charlie, do you cover yours until striking? I've found a few things rot
off now that I've got bottom heat. I used to strike my cuttings in a
large open deep box with no heat but didn't cover and got quite a high
percentage of successful cuttings.
Now I've got the heat it seems that cuttings don't like being covered
AND heat!

janet
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...
In article , Charlie
Pridham writes

"Tom Atkinson" wrote in message
...
I was wondering what is the best way to take clematis cuttings and how
successful that can be.
Tom Atkinson

Well I expect about 100% to root after 21 days, the earlier you take them
the better as its the next bit which is more difficult (getting them to
grow
on) I normally lose a few during their first year. the more established
they
are before winter the less likely you are to lose them. rooted cuttings
need
a years growing on before moving to their final size container and a
further
6 months or so in that before planting out. a well established root
system
is very important.
If you have bottom heat start in February if not wait till May/June.



Charlie, do you cover yours until striking? I've found a few things rot
off now that I've got bottom heat. I used to strike my cuttings in a
large open deep box with no heat but didn't cover and got quite a high
percentage of successful cuttings.
Now I've got the heat it seems that cuttings don't like being covered
AND heat!

janet
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

I make a high tent out of white polythene (using the greenhouse to support
it) and damp them down about every other day and use lots of fungicide
specifically one for botrytis! but I seldom have problems with rots in the
clematis (except montanas and armandii).
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

I find the best way to get results is to layer a suitable shoot ie. lay
a strong growing low shoot along the ground and make a slit in the
shoot, being careful not to cut right through, then bury the shoot
about two inches deep.

Leave the shoot undisturbed until late autumn by which time you should
have seen it growing on. Carefully lift the cutting and you should see
that it has rooted. Cut it free from the main plant and pot up, leaving
the pot in a shelterd spot until spring.

Spenny

In article . com,
spenny writes
I find the best way to get results is to layer a suitable shoot ie. lay
a strong growing low shoot along the ground and make a slit in the
shoot, being careful not to cut right through, then bury the shoot
about two inches deep.



Never layered a cutting from a clematis, if slitting stem which way?
across or longways? If choosing place to slit stem do you do an
internodal site or elsewhere?

Janet


--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

The message
from Janet Tweedy contains these words:

In article . com,
spenny writes
I find the best way to get results is to layer a suitable shoot ie. lay
a strong growing low shoot along the ground and make a slit in the
shoot, being careful not to cut right through, then bury the shoot
about two inches deep.



Never layered a cutting from a clematis, if slitting stem which way?
across or longways? If choosing place to slit stem do you do an
internodal site or elsewhere?

You don't need to leave it attached, nor does it need slitting. If you
cut a length of stem so it has two nodes on it, and just bury it in the
soil (outside), you'll get two plants - one at each node - which you can
separate when they are established.

I've never had one fail - well, not when I've kept the ground moist.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

The message
from Janet Tweedy contains these words:

Gosh, for years I've laboured under the misapprehension that clematis
needs internodal cuttings!

I've always thought that that was the correct way doe them

You do, but just leave two nodes in the cutting instead of just one.

_________/¯¯\______________/¯¯\______________
| |
|_________ ______________ ______________|
\__/ \__/

Clematis bignodia?

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

"Jaques d'Alltrades" wrote in message
k...
The message
from Janet Tweedy contains these words:

Gosh, for years I've laboured under the misapprehension that clematis
needs internodal cuttings!

I've always thought that that was the correct way doe them

You do, but just leave two nodes in the cutting instead of just one.

_________/¯¯\______________/¯¯\______________
| |
|_________ ______________ ______________|
\__/ \__/

Clematis bignodia?

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

Clematis like most climbing plants are stem rooting but the only reason you
do internodal cuttings is commercial (you get twice as many cuttings per
stem/stock plant. But in the USA they use normally 2 noded cuttings more
often than not.
I have also found by doing internodal cuttings one can make them really
short 1-2cm, which prevents them wobbling which in turn slows rooting.
If you find a way that works stick with it!

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

The message
from "Charlie Pridham" contains these words:

Clematis like most climbing plants are stem rooting but the only reason you
do internodal cuttings is commercial (you get twice as many cuttings per
stem/stock plant. But in the USA they use normally 2 noded cuttings more
often than not.

I still get two climbers per node, but I separate them after they've
rooted. Having that uncut bit in the middle helps, for a variety of
reasons.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/