We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid

Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA
Paul.

I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

Mike.

In message , Mike Lyle
writes
Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA
Paul.

I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

Mike.


Thanks, Mike. Lot of digging and sorting to do.
Paul.
--
Paul reply-to is valid

The message
from Paddy contains these words:

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?

You can compost any weeds - just as long as the heap gets to a high
enough temperature.

If you are going to add couch grass, ground elder or horsetails, be sure
to put them right in the middle, and get the heap going with plenty of
urine.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

In article , Mike Lyle mike_lyle_uk@REMO
VETHISyahoo.co.uk writes

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

We avoid using bindweed roots in composting, but we use a lot of nettle
and comfrey. The roots are mainly killed off by the compost heating up.
We cover our heaps to mature for 6 to 12 months after completion, so
any live roots, seeds or cutting which germinate will die off before the
compost is used. Pictures and details of our composting system can be
seen in the urg composting FAQ at:
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/organic.html
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid



Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3 months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost

In article ,
Mike Lyle wrote:
Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA

I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

I run a cool heap, and put all of that on; effectively none survives.
As somone else says, it is a good idea to put the roots of weeds
that will regrow from the root away from the edges, but that is all
I do (and not always even that). Even if the heap is cool, the
very corrosive conditions of an active heap are inimicable to plant
roots.

With regard to pernicious weeds (e.g. nettles, goosefoot) with RIPE
seeds, I would burn them, as those seds can survive. Ragweed may
be another, but there is no problem composting it before the seeds
are ripe - they will not ripen in the compost.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In message , bnd777
writes

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid



Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3 months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost


So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season organically?
And what plants to put in next year to start things off, given that the
plot has been fallow for a year?
I hope I'm not asking too many questions. : )
Thanks
Paul.
--
Paul reply-to is valid

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid

If in doubt, get a shredder and put everything through that first. It will
kill & compost all the vegetation. However it is the seeds of weeds which
are more problematic. The best answer to that is to make the compost pile
big to produce lots of heat & cover it with a black plastic sheet for a
year. You need space an patience though.

Nick Maclaren wrote:

In article ,
Mike Lyle wrote:

Paddy wrote:

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA

If there is enough bulk for the heap to heat up you really can afford to
put anything on (unlikely to be so effective at this time of year). You
might get it to go though with a few cubic metres of material.

I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

I try not to add ripe seed heads of pernicious weeds like thistle,
dandelion and weed roots like bindweed or groundelder (unless they have
been dessicated in the sun for a couple of weeks).

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.


I run a cool heap, and put all of that on; effectively none survives.
As somone else says, it is a good idea to put the roots of weeds
that will regrow from the root away from the edges, but that is all
I do (and not always even that). Even if the heap is cool, the
very corrosive conditions of an active heap are inimicable to plant
roots.

Try telling that to the pumpkin plant I threw on the back of my hot
compost heap this year! I admit that after it reached a certain size I
tried to keep the hot zone away from it. But it thrived despite being
periodically bhalf buried and had a larger pumpkin than the ones I
planted in the veg patch.

With regard to pernicious weeds (e.g. nettles, goosefoot) with RIPE
seeds, I would burn them, as those seds can survive. Ragweed may
be another, but there is no problem composting it before the seeds
are ripe - they will not ripen in the compost.

Indeed. Though I have been surprised what will grow on a compost heap.
Nettles invade mine from the field behind and some buddlea prunings have
been known to root down and grow instead of rotting.

Regards,
Martin Brown

In article ,
Martin Brown writes:
|
| I try not to add ripe seed heads of pernicious weeds like thistle,
| dandelion and weed roots like bindweed or groundelder (unless they have
| been dessicated in the sun for a couple of weeks).

I have no trouble with either of the bindweeds or ground elder, and
my garden is infested with them. They rarely grow on the heap.

| Try telling that to the pumpkin plant I threw on the back of my hot
| compost heap this year! I admit that after it reached a certain size I
| tried to keep the hot zone away from it. But it thrived despite being
| periodically bhalf buried and had a larger pumpkin than the ones I
| planted in the veg patch.

It isn't the hot zone so much as the anaerobic decomposition zone.
And, interestingly, cucurbits and potatoes are more resistant than
most weeds.

| Indeed. Though I have been surprised what will grow on a compost heap.
| Nettles invade mine from the field behind and some buddlea prunings have
| been known to root down and grow instead of rotting.

Oh, lots of things will grow ON heaps; very few will grow IN them,
and reach the outside.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

I forgot to mention - uploaded two rather poor pics of the rhubarb at:

http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/roobarb1.jpg
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/roobarb2.jpg

Started this spring about the size of a man's fist.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

In article , Paddy
writes

So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season organically?
And what plants to put in next year to start things off, given that the
plot has been fallow for a year?
If the plot has been in fallow for a year, it will not need a lot of
preparation at present other than clearing unwanted top growth. Most of
that can be added to the compost heap. Some well matured stable or
farmyard manure could be applied now and turned in next spring, or you
could consider green manuring if you can organise the timing and space.

Depending on the size and shape of your plot, think of it in four
quarters for cropping and preparation purposes. That way you can find
out more quickly which style of management suits both you and your soil
best. I would say avoid potatoes in the first year, and plan any
overwintering [2005/6] crops carefully, but don't be afraid to
experiment a bit and make some mistakes, that's the way we all learn.

Have a look at some urg FAQs such as:
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/startingout.html
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFA...gardening.html
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/organic.html

and you'll find a lot of useful information on the HDRA site at:
www.hdra.org.uk

I hope I'm not asking too many questions. : )
Not at all, that's what this group is here for.
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.

"Paddy" wrote in message
...
In message , bnd777
writes

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow
for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid



Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of
stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough
to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few
buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic
and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3
months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost


So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity
ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season
organically?

Find out if your council produces compost from recycled waste and
acquire as much of it as you can manage.

[snip]

Franz

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid



Paddy while your compost production gets underway ......phone round riding
schools/livery stables etc
It will be unusual if one of them is not delighted to have you cart away all
the horse muck you want

You can dig this straight into the soil once you have cleared the weeds
...........straw or shavings as well

If you check out the equestrian newsgroups and post on there someone will
also probably offer you piles of horse muck