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#1
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Planting trees
I have acquired a handful of young trees, each between 30 and 90 cm tall.
There's one each sweet (Spanish) chestnut, common birch, hazel and mountain ash. I intend to plant them a reasonable distance away from the house, to avoid blocking light, but apart from that, is there anything I should do/look out for/avoid doing? I assume I need to stake them, any advice on that? TIA! -- Cat(h) The world swirls... |
#2
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"Cat" wrote in message ... I have acquired a handful of young trees, each between 30 and 90 cm tall. There's one each sweet (Spanish) chestnut, common birch, hazel and mountain ash. I intend to plant them a reasonable distance away from the house, to avoid blocking light, but apart from that, is there anything I should do/look out for/avoid doing? I assume I need to stake them, any advice on that? TIA! Hi Cat, I wouldn't bother staking them when they are only that tall. If they are heeled in well, you'll get little root movement, any branch movement will actually encourage deep root growth and a strong trunk when older. Having said that, check they haven't lifted after any frost, and reheal as necessary. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#3
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Nick Gray wrote:
"Cat" wrote in message ... I have acquired a handful of young trees, each between 30 and 90 cm tall. There's one each sweet (Spanish) chestnut, common birch, hazel and mountain ash. I intend to plant them a reasonable distance away from the house, to avoid blocking light, but apart from that, is there anything I should do/look out for/avoid doing? I assume I need to stake them, any advice on that? TIA! Hi Cat, I wouldn't bother staking them when they are only that tall. If they are heeled in well, you'll get little root movement, any branch movement will actually encourage deep root growth and a strong trunk when older. Having said that, check they haven't lifted after any frost, and reheal as necessary. Yep. But I'd prepare the soil well: they used to say "A guinea tree is worth a guinea hole", and trees haven't changed as much as the value of Sterling. Chuck in a bit of bone-meal. If you're on clay, avoid just making a hole full of compost that will invisibly fill with water: break it up and work a bit of rotted organic matter, if you've got some, well into the soil for a few feet around. As Nick says, firm them in nicely. But plants can't read the books, so you'll usually get away with what would in theory be murder. This gardening lark is easier than some would have you think. Mike. |
#4
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The message
from "Mike Lyle" contains these words: But plants can't read the books, so you'll usually get away with what would in theory be murder. This gardening lark is easier than some would have you think. Strange, that. You'd think that as so many trees actually *BECOME* books, they might show a little more interest innit. -- Rusty Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar. http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/ |
#5
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Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
The message from "Mike Lyle" contains these words: But plants can't read the books, so you'll usually get away with what would in theory be murder. This gardening lark is easier than some would have you think. Strange, that. You'd think that as so many trees actually *BECOME* books, they might show a little more interest innit. It's down to their primary socialization, I'm afraid. When they're little, their mothers try to frighten them into good behaviour by threatening them with being made into copies of the Daily Mail and Lord Archer's novels. This gives the poor things a lifelong horror of the printed word. Mike. |
#6
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"Nick Gray" wrote in message ... "Cat" wrote in message ... I have acquired a handful of young trees, each between 30 and 90 cm tall. There's one each sweet (Spanish) chestnut, common birch, hazel and mountain ash. I intend to plant them a reasonable distance away from the house, to avoid blocking light, but apart from that, is there anything I should do/look out for/avoid doing? I assume I need to stake them, any advice on that? TIA! Hi Cat, I wouldn't bother staking them when they are only that tall. If they are heeled in well, you'll get little root movement, any branch movement will actually encourage deep root growth and a strong trunk when older. Having said that, check they haven't lifted after any frost, and reheal as necessary. I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? Many thanks to you and Mike for advice. -- Cat(h) The world swirls... |
#7
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In article , Cat
writes I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? My understanding of 'heeling in' is a temporary measure of holding a tree, shrub or perennial plant while it is waiting to be permanently planted. The plant is placed into a shallow hole, the root-ball is covered with soil which is firmed down with the heel, then it is given plenty of water and hopefully priority in the planting programme. -- Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs. |
#8
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Hi Cat, I wouldn't bother staking them when they are only that tall. If they are heeled in well, you'll get little root movement, any branch movement will actually encourage deep root growth and a strong trunk when older. Having said that, check they haven't lifted after any frost, and reheal as necessary. I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? Many thanks to you and Mike for advice. Yep you got it, firm the soil down around the roots with your foot (it doen't have to be your heel, but that's normally where you can apply most pressure), so the roots are in contact with the soil. After firming, water in well, this should get rid of any air pockets. Cheers Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#9
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"Alan Gould" wrote in message ... In article , Cat writes I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? My understanding of 'heeling in' is a temporary measure of holding a tree, shrub or perennial plant while it is waiting to be permanently planted. The plant is placed into a shallow hole, the root-ball is covered with soil which is firmed down with the heel, then it is given plenty of water and hopefully priority in the planting programme. -- Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs. Hi Alan, You are right that the term 'heeling in' is used to store whips, saplings, shrubs and small trees in a shallow trench, until ready for planting. See Tree Council for a full definition: http://www.treecouncil.org.uk/info/packng2.html. I meant it in the context of firming the soil around the roots with your heel, in the planting hole, which is (IMO) still valid. Cheers Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#10
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"Nick Gray" wrote in message ... Hi Cat, I wouldn't bother staking them when they are only that tall. If they are heeled in well, you'll get little root movement, any branch movement will actually encourage deep root growth and a strong trunk when older. Having said that, check they haven't lifted after any frost, and reheal as necessary. I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? Many thanks to you and Mike for advice. Yep you got it, firm the soil down around the roots with your foot (it doen't have to be your heel, but that's normally where you can apply most pressure), so the roots are in contact with the soil. After firming, water in well, this should get rid of any air pockets. Sorry for being so ignorant, but I assume now is an OK time to plant trees? Or should I wait longer, bearing in mind that the trees in question are currently in pots (at a wild guess 1 or 2 l pots) -- Cat(h) The world swirls... |
#11
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"Cat" wrote in message ... Sorry for being so ignorant, but I assume now is an OK time to plant trees? Or should I wait longer, bearing in mind that the trees in question are currently in pots (at a wild guess 1 or 2 l pots) Wait until the leaves are off as the roots are then being asked for much less water, and they will then have all winter to recover from the damage done when planting them. -- Anton |
#12
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On 8/10/04 2:45 pm, in article , "Cat"
wrote: snip Sorry for being so ignorant, but I assume now is an OK time to plant trees? Or should I wait longer, bearing in mind that the trees in question are currently in pots (at a wild guess 1 or 2 l pots) Yes is the answer. In theory, container grown plants can be planted at any time of the year; bare root plants are safest planted in autumn. While lack of rain is not likely to be a problem, mini droughts can occur in October in parts of UK, so don't let the tree dry out. Dig a hole a little wider than the tree's roots and no deeper than the current soil mark on its trunk. In an ideal world, don't let grass or weeds grow up to the trunk for a year or two and keep it well watered. -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove the weeds to email me) |
#13
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"Nick Gray" wrote in message ... I take it heeling means firming around the rootball with my heel after planting? Many thanks to you and Mike for advice. Yep you got it, firm the soil down around the roots with your foot (it doen't have to be your heel, but that's normally where you can apply most pressure), so the roots are in contact with the soil. After firming, water in well, this should get rid of any air pockets. There would appear to be two uses for the term "heelong in". The alternative is to put newly acquired shrubs in a large drill, the roots lightly covered with soil, until the ground is ready for proper planting. Franz |
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