I have a rhododendron which is being crowded by a Hebe next to it, bad
planning by whoever planted that border. There is space nearby to move
it to and it seems to me that Autumn would be a good time to do so. It
is only about 6 feet tall max and relatively spindly. Could I get away
with gradually digging around the roots and then moving it to a prepared
position? If so how long should I leave between cuts and what should the
watering regime be post moving? bearing in mind the ground is liable to
freeze to some extent here in Dundee.

Peter

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:20:06 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

I have a rhododendron which is being crowded by a Hebe next to it, bad
planning by whoever planted that border. There is space nearby to move
it to and it seems to me that Autumn would be a good time to do so. It
is only about 6 feet tall max and relatively spindly. Could I get away
with gradually digging around the roots and then moving it to a prepared
position? If so how long should I leave between cuts and what should the
watering regime be post moving? bearing in mind the ground is liable to
freeze to some extent here in Dundee.

Peter

Early autumn is the best time to move rhodies, but now is not too
late. Don't attempt it if the soil is frozen. Rhododendrons have a
fibrous root ball. A plant the size of yours will have a root ball
about 3ft across and about 1 ft deep in the middle, more or less.
Water it well the day before if the soil is dry. Dig a trench all
around the root ball about 18 inches or so out from the trunk, then
start to cut under it with a spade, sliding in a large sack or
polythene sheet as you go. Eventually you'll be able to work the whole
ball onto the sack. It'll probably be too heavy to lift, unless you
have help, so drag it to its new site which you say is close by. If
you are going to lift it, bring up the corners of the sacking up to
the trunk and tie them, to hold the roots and soil together.

The new site should be prepared by excavating a saucer-shaped hole the
size of the root ball going into it, and digging over the bottom and
incorporating plenty of wet peat or leaf mould. Manoeuvre the root
ball into the hole and arrange the plant so that it's upright and
facing the way you want. Fill in around the edges with peat/soil mix
and lightly firm everything down. The surface of the root ball should
be at the same level as or slightly above the surrounding soil. Don't
put soil onto the root ball: rhody roots need to breathe. Water well
and then mulch generously with coarse peat or, preferably, leaf mould.

A danger for freshly moved rhodies is that if the soil freezes, cold
easterly winds in winter or early spring will desiccate the leaves, as
they can't draw water up from their roots. The mulch will help keep
the roots from freezing. If in doubt, water the roots and wrap the
foliage with fleece.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Chris Hogg wrote:

A danger for freshly moved rhodies is that if the soil freezes, cold
easterly winds in winter or early spring will desiccate the leaves, as
they can't draw water up from their roots. The mulch will help keep
the roots from freezing. If in doubt, water the roots and wrap the
foliage with fleece.

Thankyou for a detailed description Chris. I'll give it a go at the
weekend. Once my back settles down.

BTW I should have looked out the window before posting, the rhodie in
question is only about 4ft tall. An easier proposition.

Peter