Good day,

I would really appreciate some advice about the Victoria plum tree I planted the three three years ago, which is now about 10ft-12ft tall. There are a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on:

FRUITING HABIT:
The first summer, after planting, when there were only a few 1m branches, the tree bore a few plums. The second year (this year), there were no blossoms and no plums. However, right now (Oct, 2017) there seem to be a great many fruiting spurs appearing (little pointy buds, several per every short new twig protruding from the branches). I am therefore wondering if my tree is becoming a bi-yearly fruiter. By the look of the number of fruiting spurs now visible, I'd say there will be an extraordinary quantity of fruit next year.

Question: If I nip out about half of the fruiting spurs, will this help to put the tree back into a more desirable annual fruiting habit? (I vaguely remember hearing advice to this effect, somewhere, but I may be wrong.)

SHOT-HOLE DISEASE
The tree has exhibited shot-hole disease every year, so far. Now that I have diagnosed the issue, I plan to spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture, once all the old leaves have dropped. My question is: how many times should I spray it, before next spring's leaves appear, and when? And is this likely to cure it? Do the fungal spores only live on the surface of the tree, or do they live inside the tree, where the spray can't reach?

Thank you for any advice!

Al_4

On 24/10/2017 15:11, Al_4 wrote:
Good day,

I would really appreciate some advice about the Victoria plum tree I planted the three three years ago, which is now about 10ft-12ft tall. There are a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on:

FRUITING HABIT:
The first summer, after planting, when there were only a few 1m branches, the tree bore a few plums. The second year (this year), there were no blossoms and no plums. However, right now (Oct, 2017) there seem to be a great many fruiting spurs appearing (little pointy buds, several per every short new twig protruding from the branches). I am therefore wondering if my tree is becoming a bi-yearly fruiter. By the look of the number of fruiting spurs now visible, I'd say there will be an extraordinary quantity of fruit next year.

Question: If I nip out about half of the fruiting spurs, will this help to put the tree back into a more desirable annual fruiting habit? (I vaguely remember hearing advice to this effect, somewhere, but I may be wrong.)

SHOT-HOLE DISEASE
The tree has exhibited shot-hole disease every year, so far. Now that I have diagnosed the issue, I plan to spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture, once all the old leaves have dropped. My question is: how many times should I spray it, before next spring's leaves appear, and when? And is this likely to cure it? Do the fungal spores only live on the surface of the tree, or do they live inside the tree, where the spray can't reach?

Thank you for any advice!

Al_4

Re the fruiting spurs, I would leave well alone, it's just a young tree
and hasn't had time to get into any real cropping habit.
Here I loose most of the buds from my fruit tree with Bullfinches
stripping them in the spring.

On 24/10/2017 15:11, Al_4 wrote:
Good day,

I would really appreciate some advice about the Victoria plum tree I planted the three three years ago, which is now about 10ft-12ft tall. There are a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on:

FRUITING HABIT:
The first summer, after planting, when there were only a few 1m branches, the tree bore a few plums. The second year (this year), there were no blossoms and no plums. However, right now (Oct, 2017) there seem to be a great many fruiting spurs appearing (little pointy buds, several per every short new twig protruding from the branches). I am therefore wondering if my tree is becoming a bi-yearly fruiter. By the look of the number of fruiting spurs now visible, I'd say there will be an extraordinary quantity of fruit next year.

Question: If I nip out about half of the fruiting spurs, will this help to put the tree back into a more desirable annual fruiting habit? (I vaguely remember hearing advice to this effect, somewhere, but I may be wrong.)

SHOT-HOLE DISEASE
The tree has exhibited shot-hole disease every year, so far. Now that I have diagnosed the issue, I plan to spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture, once all the old leaves have dropped. My question is: how many times should I spray it, before next spring's leaves appear, and when? And is this likely to cure it? Do the fungal spores only live on the surface of the tree, or do they live inside the tree, where the spray can't reach?

Thank you for any advice!

Al_4

I have had a Victoria plum for about 17 byears. It was initialy fan
trained against a fence. It now is restricted to about 8ft high and 12
ft wide. For a njumber of years it was a biennial cropper but now
produces a good crop every year, although better in one year than the
next (about 15lbs this year) The only treatment it gets ia Winter tar
oil wash as I have problrems with the plum moth. Persevere, the result
is well woth the effort

Malcolm

On 24/10/2017 15:11, Al_4 wrote:
Good day,

I would really appreciate some advice about the Victoria plum tree I
planted the three three years ago, which is now about 10ft-12ft tall.
There are a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on:

FRUITING HABIT: The first summer, after planting, when there were
only a few 1m branches, the tree bore a few plums. The second year
(this year), there were no blossoms and no plums. However, right now
(Oct, 2017) there seem to be a great many fruiting spurs appearing
(little pointy buds, several per every short new twig protruding from
the branches). I am therefore wondering if my tree is becoming a
bi-yearly fruiter. By the look of the number of fruiting spurs now
visible, I'd say there will be an extraordinary quantity of fruit
next year.

Question: If I nip out about half of the fruiting spurs, will this
help to put the tree back into a more desirable annual fruiting
habit? (I vaguely remember hearing advice to this effect, somewhere,
but I may be wrong.)

I'd do nothing at all by way of pruning at this early stage and
certainly nothing to a plum tree at this time of year. You can prune
shortly after flowering when the tree is in full growth. But it will
respond with vigorous whippy growth if you try too hard. Knocking some
of the smaller unwanted fruit off would be kinder. A single bad year
could just have been a late frost (which got my Nashi tree this year).

SHOT-HOLE DISEASE The tree has exhibited shot-hole disease every
year, so far. Now that I have diagnosed the issue, I plan to spray
the tree with Bordeaux mixture, once all the old leaves have dropped.

You will need to get rid of all the old leaves. I wouldn't get your
hopes up of eliminating it but you might slow it down a bit by removing
diseased leaves when you see the first signs and a copper fungicide.

My question is: how many times should I spray it, before next
spring's leaves appear, and when? And is this likely to cure it? Do
the fungal spores only live on the surface of the tree, or do they
live inside the tree, where the spray can't reach?

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?) Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees, and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+1, Al_4 wrote:
Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?) Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees, and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

PS... All the old leaves are now fallen and today is a still day, so ideal for spraying..

AL

On 24 Oct 2017 07:11, Al_4 wrote:
Good day,

I would really appreciate some advice about the Victoria plum tree I planted the three three years ago, which is now about 10ft-12ft tall. There are a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on:

FRUITING HABIT:
The first summer, after planting, when there were only a few 1m branches, the tree bore a few plums. The second year (this year), there were no blossoms and no plums. However, right now (Oct, 2017) there seem to be a great many fruiting spurs appearing (little pointy buds, several per every short new twig protruding from the branches). I am therefore wondering
if my tree is becoming a bi-yearly fruiter. By the look of the number of fruiting spurs now visible, I'd say there will be an extraordinary quantity of fruit next year.

Question: If I nip out about half of the fruiting spurs, will this help to put the tree back into a more desirable annual fruiting habit? (I vaguely remember hearing advice to this effect, somewhere, but I may be wrong.)

SHOT-HOLE DISEASE
The tree has exhibited shot-hole disease every year, so far. Now that I have diagnosed the issue, I plan to spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture, once all the old leaves have dropped. My question is: how many times should I spray it, before next spring's leaves appear, and when? And is this likely to cure it? Do the fungal spores only live on the surface of th
e tree, or do they live inside the tree, where the spray can't reach?

Thank you for any advice!

Al_4

Something to be aware of, there is a new pest in the UK which came from
Japan via the USA called SWD or Spotted Wing Drosophila. This fly
attacks partially ripe fruit and all soft skinned fruit are attacked
including plums, cherries, apricots, gooseberries, etc, all vine fruit,
tomatoes, you name it.
The worse thing is there appears to be nothing you can do except cover
your trees/vines completely in fleece which is a bit impractical.

--
Regards
Bob Hobden

On 25/10/17 11:55, Al_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+1, Al_4 wrote:
Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?) Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees, and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

PS... All the old leaves are now fallen and today is a still day, so ideal for spraying..

Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I hope there will be a review of withdrawn chemicals after we Brexit,
but I'm not holding my breath. :-(

--

Jeff

On 25/10/17 22:54, Martin wrote:
On Wed, 25 Oct 2017 19:23:33 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:

On 25/10/17 11:55, Al_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+1, Al_4 wrote:
Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?) Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees, and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

PS... All the old leaves are now fallen and today is a still day, so ideal for spraying..

Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I hope there will be a review of withdrawn chemicals after we Brexit,
but I'm not holding my breath. :-(

You assume that DEFRA isn't responsible for putting some chemicals on the list?

I've no idea what DEFRA added, if anything, and with Gove now in charge,
I doubt anything will be removed. Whatever, DEFRA won't be responsible
for everything on the list, and perhaps Gove will blot his copybook
before Brexit and we'll have someone less Green in charge.

But I see glyphosate is still causing headaches for the EU. Yesterday's
non-decision will, I assume, have to be addressed by 15 December.

--

Jeff

On Wed, 25 Oct 2017 19:23:33 +0100, Jeff Layman wrote:

On 25/10/17 11:55, Al_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+1, Al_4 wrote:
Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown
wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection
net year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray
the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?)
Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in
its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the
spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing
tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a
specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on
my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit
trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees,
and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

PS... All the old leaves are now fallen and today is a still day, so
ideal for spraying..

Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I hope there will be a review of withdrawn chemicals after we Brexit,
but I'm not holding my breath. :-(

Plenty of confusion around about the ban or lack of it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vitax-Ltd-Copper-Mixture-175g/dp/B00S1GMC7E

is generally pointed to as either re-badged Bordeaux Mixture or an
acceptable alternative.

Spraying seems to be during winter after all the leaves and other rubbish
have been cleared up and burned.

Needs to be done on a dry day.


Cheers


Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Wed, 25 Oct 2017 19:23:33 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:


Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I hope there will be a review of withdrawn chemicals after we Brexit,
but I'm not holding my breath. :-(

Even if growers are allowed to use some again would produce that had
been treated with them be allowed to be imported in to the EU, sounds
like a potential way to bugger up any market for British produce that
may remain.

At least exports of Pork will be saving on transport costs,
All these wishes by those in favour of leaving for the UK to be free
from the influence of the EU even when the UK has left is leading to a
surfeit of Pigs with wings.

G.Harman

On 26/10/17 11:53, Martin wrote:
On Thu, 26 Oct 2017 07:36:05 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:

On 25/10/17 22:54, Martin wrote:
On Wed, 25 Oct 2017 19:23:33 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:

On 25/10/17 11:55, Al_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+1, Al_4 wrote:
Dave, Malcolm, Martin,

Thank you so much for the great guidance...

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 9:13:40 AM UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:

The main problem is the stuff is around the tree now so reinfection net
year is almost inevitable. Copper fungicide will slow it down.

Hmm.. that's helpful (albeit somewhat worrying). When should I spray the copper fungicide? (Now [Oct], or just before next Spring?) Alternatively, if I were to destroy the tree and plant a new one in its place, is it likely that the new one would become infected by the spores left behind by the old one? I'm hoping I can cure the existing tree, because I've put lots of time and effort into training it to a specific shape, to provide ideal shade over a certain sitting spot on my patio. So far, the disease has not spread to neigbouring fruit trees, but is there a danger this could happen? (I have apple trees, and another plum within a few meters of the infected plum tree.)

TIA,

Al

PS... All the old leaves are now fallen and today is a still day, so ideal for spraying..

Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I hope there will be a review of withdrawn chemicals after we Brexit,
but I'm not holding my breath. :-(

You assume that DEFRA isn't responsible for putting some chemicals on the list?

I've no idea what DEFRA added, if anything, and with Gove now in charge,
I doubt anything will be removed. Whatever, DEFRA won't be responsible
for everything on the list, and perhaps Gove will blot his copybook
before Brexit and we'll have someone less Green in charge.

But I see glyphosate is still causing headaches for the EU. Yesterday's
non-decision will, I assume, have to be addressed by 15 December.

Most of the bans are initiated by the Dutch, first chemicals are misused and
then the Dutch go into panic mode about accumulation of chemicals in their
ground water. In almost every case commercial use is still allowed after a Dutch
ban.

I'm not surprised. All the amateurs pollute everything with the
minuscule amount they use, whereas the commercial users are so careful...

--

Jeff

On Wed, 25 Oct 2017 19:23:33 Jeff Layman wrote:

Are you in the UK? If so, where did you get your Boardeaux Mixture? Its
use by amateurs in the EU has been banned for a couple of years (see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=820). The only copper
product approved (copper oxychloride) is for use on grapes.

I was in Bricomarché in Falaise last week and Bordeaux Mixture was
readily available on the shelves.

David

--
David Rance writing from Caversham, Reading, UK

On 27/10/2017 11:54, David Rance wrote:
Bordeaux Mixture
Try looking on line

On Fri, 27 Oct 2017 15:26:24 David wrote:

On 27/10/2017 11:54, David Rance wrote:

Bordeaux Mixture

Try looking on line

Sorry, I don't get your point. What do you want me to look online for? I
was responding to Jeff who said that the EU had banned its use by
amateurs.

I replied:

I was in Bricomarché in Falaise last week and Bordeaux
Mixture was readily available on the shelves.

pointing out that it is readily available in small quantities to
amateurs in France. Bricomarché is the equivalent of Homebase in the UK.

David

--
David Rance writing from Caversham, Reading, UK