"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
Very good advice. The only thing I would add is that the OP said it is in
shade for most of the time.
snipped
If he can dig it up when it is dormant and move it to a sunnier position, I
am sure he will be rewarded with better flowering.

Many thanks for the advice, I may move it to the opposite border, where its
a little sunnier.


--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor -

"Simon T" wrote in message
...
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
Very good advice. The only thing I would add is that the OP said it is in
shade for most of the time.
snipped
If he can dig it up when it is dormant and move it to a sunnier position,
I
am sure he will be rewarded with better flowering.

Many thanks for the advice, I may move it to the opposite border, where
its
a little sunnier.

That rose looks like it may be a climbing rose, judging by the height of the
flowers If the individual stems are over 6' then it likely is one, which
will mean it would need a trellis or horizintal wire system to support the
stems. Moving an old rose is possible. I moved an 18 year old one which was
crowded out by a shrub last winter and it survived well. But there are some
important rules if you want to transplant successfully.

Before worrying about what type of rose it is, when you come to move it this
should be done when it is dirmant anytime friom mid Nov to late Feb when it
isn't frosty. To stand a good chance of survival you will need to dig out as
much of the root system as possible, severing all roots over 2' long with
secateurs. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots which should be
spread out and use a couple of handfuls of bonemeal to mix in with the soil
ised to backfill the planting hole. The top of the crown of the rose should
be level with the soil when you've finished filling in the hole. If you
don't know what the crowm is, it is the knobbly bit of the rose where the
stems arise from. When you are satisfied that the rose is planted correctly
give it a thorough watering. Use a full watering can.

Finally prune all stems back so that they are no longer than 6" -12". You
should prune each stem to an outward facing bud (it will redwmble a pink
pimple) in late Feb.You should be able to see these 'pimples' on the stems
by early spring.

On 27/09/2014 21:31, FrankB wrote:
"Simon T" wrote in message
...
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
Very good advice. The only thing I would add is that the OP said it is in
shade for most of the time.
snipped
If he can dig it up when it is dormant and move it to a sunnier position,
I
am sure he will be rewarded with better flowering.

Many thanks for the advice, I may move it to the opposite border, where
its
a little sunnier.

That rose looks like it may be a climbing rose, judging by the height of the
flowers If the individual stems are over 6' then it likely is one, which
will mean it would need a trellis or horizintal wire system to support the
stems. Moving an old rose is possible. I moved an 18 year old one which was
crowded out by a shrub last winter and it survived well. But there are some
important rules if you want to transplant successfully.

Before worrying about what type of rose it is, when you come to move it this
should be done when it is dirmant anytime friom mid Nov to late Feb when it
isn't frosty. To stand a good chance of survival you will need to dig out as
much of the root system as possible, severing all roots over 2' long with
secateurs. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots which should be
spread out and use a couple of handfuls of bonemeal to mix in with the soil
ised to backfill the planting hole. The top of the crown of the rose should
be level with the soil when you've finished filling in the hole. If you
don't know what the crowm is, it is the knobbly bit of the rose where the
stems arise from. When you are satisfied that the rose is planted correctly
give it a thorough watering. Use a full watering can.

Finally prune all stems back so that they are no longer than 6" -12". You
should prune each stem to an outward facing bud (it will redwmble a pink
pimple) in late Feb.You should be able to see these 'pimples' on the stems
by early spring.


For heavens sake, It's a 10 year old rose that hasn't been pruned.
Your advice is great for a 4 or 5 year old rose that's been cared for
and regularly pruned.
If that was a 10 year old unpruned climbing rose it would be a lot
taller than about the 5 ft it seems to be.

On 27/09/2014 22:04, david wrote:
On 27/09/2014 21:31, FrankB wrote:
"Simon T" wrote in message
...
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
Very good advice. The only thing I would add is that the OP said it
is in
shade for most of the time.
snipped
If he can dig it up when it is dormant and move it to a sunnier
position,
I
am sure he will be rewarded with better flowering.

Many thanks for the advice, I may move it to the opposite border, where
its
a little sunnier.

That rose looks like it may be a climbing rose, judging by the height
of the
flowers If the individual stems are over 6' then it likely is one, which
will mean it would need a trellis or horizintal wire system to
support the
stems. Moving an old rose is possible. I moved an 18 year old one
which was
crowded out by a shrub last winter and it survived well. But there are
some
important rules if you want to transplant successfully.

Before worrying about what type of rose it is, when you come to move
it this
should be done when it is dirmant anytime friom mid Nov to late Feb
when it
isn't frosty. To stand a good chance of survival you will need to dig
out as
much of the root system as possible, severing all roots over 2' long with
secateurs. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots which should be
spread out and use a couple of handfuls of bonemeal to mix in with the
soil
ised to backfill the planting hole. The top of the crown of the rose
should
be level with the soil when you've finished filling in the hole. If you
don't know what the crowm is, it is the knobbly bit of the rose where the
stems arise from. When you are satisfied that the rose is planted
correctly
give it a thorough watering. Use a full watering can.

Finally prune all stems back so that they are no longer than 6" -12". You
should prune each stem to an outward facing bud (it will redwmble a pink
pimple) in late Feb.You should be able to see these 'pimples' on the
stems
by early spring.


For heavens sake, It's a 10 year old rose that hasn't been pruned.
Your advice is great for a 4 or 5 year old rose that's been cared for
and regularly pruned.
If that was a 10 year old unpruned climbing rose it would be a lot
taller than about the 5 ft it seems to be.




I've read this thread so far and am convinced that this is not a
climbing rose, but an overgrown shrub rose, as David says. It doesn't
help that the anemone hupehensis/hybrida is growing through it, but at
least it looks pretty for now.

Since the OP is not an experienced gardener *and* wants to keep his plot
low maintenance, I am going to approach this is a very basic manner.
The rose needs cutting back by at least 2/3rds, removing not just top
growth but all crossing and spindly growth, too. If the OP can cut to
outward facing buds (to generate an open goblet-shaped bush), then
that's a boon. He can always cut to outward-facing shoots in Spring
when that growth is more obvious, thus aiding his understanding of that
process.

Once pruned, he should clear the ground beneath the rose of any fallen
leaves (rose or others) to remove any fungal spores that may infect the
rose again. Then water really well ... then spread a 2"-3" thick mulch
of good compost over the cleared area, but not touching the rose stem as
this may cause rotting. The mulch will suppress weeds, keep in moisture
and stop any fungal spores left on the soil surface from causing
reinfection.

As to the Anemones, enjoy them for now. They're good Autumn plants and
cope well with shade, so definitely worth keeping. Cut out any
blackened leaves. In the Spring, try and remove them from the base of
the rose and give them their own space. Keep them well-watered until
they're established.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message ...

The rose needs cutting back by at least 2/3rds, removing not just top
growth but all crossing and spindly growth, too. If the OP can cut to
outward facing buds (to generate an open goblet-shaped bush), then that's a
boon. He can always cut to outward-facing shoots in Spring when that
growth is more obvious, thus aiding his understanding of that process.

Many thanks to everyone for all the replies.

Having taken everyones comments on board, I think I'll probably leave it
where it is and just cut it back like you say and give it some fertiliser or
mulch in the spring.


--
Best Wishes
Simon Taylor

"david" wrote in message
...
On 27/09/2014 21:31, FrankB wrote:
"Simon T" wrote in message
...

For heavens sake, It's a 10 year old rose that hasn't been pruned.
Your advice is great for a 4 or 5 year old rose that's been cared for
and regularly pruned.
If that was a 10 year old unpruned climbing rose it would be a lot
taller than about the 5 ft it seems to be.

Not necessarily You can only see a bit of it. You can't possibly tell from
that photo what sort of rose it is. It could still be a climbing rose...or a
shrub rose...or a bush rose etc, etc