Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to 5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about 10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have such a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D

Did I miss any response to this post? I have a new apple tree too and would
like to know about pruning, but I would like to get fruit too.
If I cut off the top shoots, will that encourage more lower shoots to form?


"JD" wrote in message
...
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to 5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure
what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about 10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have such
a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D


--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to 5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about 10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have such a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D




I'm not an expert on pruning apple trees (although I prune my Crab apple
and have pruned a friend's apple tree) but, since you've received no
advice thus far, I will attempt to fill in a few blanks for you (and
Ophelia now).

The rootstock on which an apple grows (that is, on to which it's been
grafted) rules the size and height of the tree so, in a sense, you have
already made that decision. However, pruning at the right time will
certainly help you control the size to some extent, although the tree's
vigour may try to argue with you.

It is well worth knowing that pruning in summer controls growth; pruning
in winter encourages growth.

Before you prune anything, you need to know whether your trees are 'tip
bearing' or 'spur bearing', ie where the fruit appears on the branches.
It is easier to prune spur bearing trees. If you prune without
knowing, you may be removing fruiting wood - almost certainly if it is a
tip bearer.

Now this is the educated intuitive part (perhaps someone will let me/us
know if I go wrong):
Because you are growing for shade as much as fruit, in your position I
would let it grow on this year, allowing the leader in each tree to make
more height so that you can walk and sit under it later. (If you were
growing purely for fruit, I would advice shaping the tree now to keep
the fruit at a convenient height for picking). As for the lower
branches, it's better to leave them because they will help thicken up
and strengthen the trunk. If they're in the way, then just shorten them
back a little. Much later, when you have more height and a good crown
on the tree, you will be able to 'raise the crown' (remove some lower
branches) of the tree to allow you to walk beneath.

Where you have a double leader due to earlier breakage, select the
strongest leader and cut out the other. If need be, you can straighten
the selected leader by tying it to a strong stake until the wood has
hardened into the correct position, which may take a year or two.
(Leaving two leaders, incidentally, can cause the tree to split and tear
at the basal 'V' and seriously damage the tree.
For now, this is all I would do.

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 26/08/2014 16:16, Spider wrote:
On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to 5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9
(snip)
Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D

(snip)

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

I would only add one thing to Spider's excellent advice. That basically
involves keeping the tree under control. If you let branches get too
long, and any apples that form are out of reach, then you risk leaving
diseased apples on the tree, which may lead to the infection spreading
to other parts of the tree. You also won't be able to harvest them
before they drop and get bruised. If you prune long branches to a
reasonable length, you will always be able to reach the fruit. It will
also lead to a thicker canopy for shade, although you'll have to watch
for crossing and rubbing branches.

--

Jeff

"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to
5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to
establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure
what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as
thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about
10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have such
a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D




I'm not an expert on pruning apple trees (although I prune my Crab apple
and have pruned a friend's apple tree) but, since you've received no
advice thus far, I will attempt to fill in a few blanks for you (and
Ophelia now).

The rootstock on which an apple grows (that is, on to which it's been
grafted) rules the size and height of the tree so, in a sense, you have
already made that decision. However, pruning at the right time will
certainly help you control the size to some extent, although the tree's
vigour may try to argue with you.

In my case, I was thinking that if I took out the top, it might bush out
more below? There are a lot of new shoots coming from lower down in the
trunks on both the plum and the apple. I also have cotoneaster, climbing
hydrangea and holly that are sprouting quite thickly in the lower trunks. I
haven't seen this before! Could I possibly have done something right or are
they from outer space and they are coming to get me??


It is well worth knowing that pruning in summer controls growth; pruning
in winter encourages growth.

I Didn't Know That!!


Before you prune anything, you need to know whether your trees are 'tip
bearing' or 'spur bearing', ie where the fruit appears on the branches. It
is easier to prune spur bearing trees. If you prune without knowing, you
may be removing fruiting wood - almost certainly if it is a tip bearer.
Now this is the educated intuitive part (perhaps someone will let me/us
know if I go wrong):
Because you are growing for shade as much as fruit, in your position I
would let it grow on this year, allowing the leader in each tree to make
more height so that you can walk and sit under it later. (If you were
growing purely for fruit, I would advice shaping the tree now to keep the
fruit at a convenient height for picking). As for the lower branches,
it's better to leave them because they will help thicken up and strengthen
the trunk. If they're in the way, then just shorten them back a little.
Much later, when you have more height and a good crown on the tree, you
will be able to 'raise the crown' (remove some lower branches) of the tree
to allow you to walk beneath.

Where you have a double leader due to earlier breakage, select the
strongest leader and cut out the other. If need be, you can straighten
the selected leader by tying it to a strong stake until the wood has
hardened into the correct position, which may take a year or two. (Leaving
two leaders, incidentally, can cause the tree to split and tear at the
basal 'V' and seriously damage the tree.
For now, this is all I would do.

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds': dead,
dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air movement.
Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause wounding,
which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good pruning
guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training guide by
Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley publication,
ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

Phew that helps a LOT thank you very much and I shall certainly treat myself
to that pruning guide!

Thank you for the wonderful response. I am very grateful for the time and
trouble you have taken.

Book ordered))

Ophelia





--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 26/08/2014 18:07, Ophelia wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to
5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to
establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure
what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as
thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about
10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have
such
a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D




I'm not an expert on pruning apple trees (although I prune my Crab apple
and have pruned a friend's apple tree) but, since you've received no
advice thus far, I will attempt to fill in a few blanks for you (and
Ophelia now).

The rootstock on which an apple grows (that is, on to which it's been
grafted) rules the size and height of the tree so, in a sense, you have
already made that decision. However, pruning at the right time will
certainly help you control the size to some extent, although the tree's
vigour may try to argue with you.

In my case, I was thinking that if I took out the top, it might bush out
more below? There are a lot of new shoots coming from lower down in
the trunks on both the plum and the apple. I also have cotoneaster,
climbing hydrangea and holly that are sprouting quite thickly in the
lower trunks. I haven't seen this before! Could I possibly have done
something right or are they from outer space and they are coming to get
me??




Hi Ophelia, If you cut out the top of the leader, it should certainly
sprout lower down; though whether it sprouts lower down on the leader or
lower in the crown is debatable. I think you should go ahead and make
the cut. Do it in winter since you want to encourage more growth.

As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water
shoots' (uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous
episode of pruning. If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.



It is well worth knowing that pruning in summer controls growth; pruning
in winter encourages growth.

I Didn't Know That!!


Before you prune anything, you need to know whether your trees are 'tip
bearing' or 'spur bearing', ie where the fruit appears on the
branches. It
is easier to prune spur bearing trees. If you prune without knowing, you
may be removing fruiting wood - almost certainly if it is a tip bearer.
Now this is the educated intuitive part (perhaps someone will let me/us
know if I go wrong):
Because you are growing for shade as much as fruit, in your position I
would let it grow on this year, allowing the leader in each tree to make
more height so that you can walk and sit under it later. (If you were
growing purely for fruit, I would advice shaping the tree now to keep the
fruit at a convenient height for picking). As for the lower branches,
it's better to leave them because they will help thicken up and
strengthen
the trunk. If they're in the way, then just shorten them back a little.
Much later, when you have more height and a good crown on the tree, you
will be able to 'raise the crown' (remove some lower branches) of the
tree
to allow you to walk beneath.

Where you have a double leader due to earlier breakage, select the
strongest leader and cut out the other. If need be, you can straighten
the selected leader by tying it to a strong stake until the wood has
hardened into the correct position, which may take a year or two.
(Leaving
two leaders, incidentally, can cause the tree to split and tear at the
basal 'V' and seriously damage the tree.
For now, this is all I would do.

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead,
dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement.
Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause wounding,
which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning
guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training guide by
Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication,
ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

Phew that helps a LOT thank you very much and I shall certainly treat
myself
to that pruning guide!

Thank you for the wonderful response. I am very grateful for the time and
trouble you have taken.

Book ordered))

Ophelia





You're welcome, Ophelia. Glad you've decided to get the book. You
won't be disappointed.


--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 26/08/2014 16:16, Spider wrote:
On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to
5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to
establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure
what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as
thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up
about 10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have
such a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D




I'm not an expert on pruning apple trees (although I prune my Crab apple
and have pruned a friend's apple tree) but, since you've received no
advice thus far, I will attempt to fill in a few blanks for you (and
Ophelia now).

The rootstock on which an apple grows (that is, on to which it's been
grafted) rules the size and height of the tree so, in a sense, you have
already made that decision. However, pruning at the right time will
certainly help you control the size to some extent, although the tree's
vigour may try to argue with you.

It is well worth knowing that pruning in summer controls growth; pruning
in winter encourages growth.

Before you prune anything, you need to know whether your trees are 'tip
bearing' or 'spur bearing', ie where the fruit appears on the branches.
It is easier to prune spur bearing trees. If you prune without
knowing, you may be removing fruiting wood - almost certainly if it is a
tip bearer.

Now this is the educated intuitive part (perhaps someone will let me/us
know if I go wrong):
Because you are growing for shade as much as fruit, in your position I
would let it grow on this year, allowing the leader in each tree to make
more height so that you can walk and sit under it later. (If you were
growing purely for fruit, I would advice shaping the tree now to keep
the fruit at a convenient height for picking). As for the lower
branches, it's better to leave them because they will help thicken up
and strengthen the trunk. If they're in the way, then just shorten them
back a little. Much later, when you have more height and a good crown
on the tree, you will be able to 'raise the crown' (remove some lower
branches) of the tree to allow you to walk beneath.

Where you have a double leader due to earlier breakage, select the
strongest leader and cut out the other. If need be, you can straighten
the selected leader by tying it to a strong stake until the wood has
hardened into the correct position, which may take a year or two.
(Leaving two leaders, incidentally, can cause the tree to split and tear
at the basal 'V' and seriously damage the tree.
For now, this is all I would do.

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.



Forgive me following my own post, Jake, but having looked at your pics
again, I note that some of your trees are growing with grass close to
the trunk. Trees, especially new trees, need a 3ft/1m circle of clear
soil to prevent competition from grass and weeds. The grass mulch round
some of your trees is good, but it shouldn't be making contact with the
trunk, as this can cause rotting.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message
...

Hi Ophelia, If you cut out the top of the leader, it should certainly
sprout lower down; though whether it sprouts lower down on the leader or
lower in the crown is debatable. I think you should go ahead and make the
cut. Do it in winter since you want to encourage more growth.

Thanks! Will do!


As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water shoots'
(uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous episode of
pruning.

I have never pruned those trees that far down, nor have I ever pruned the
cotoneaster, holly or hydrangea ... ever. Yes they all have a similar
growth.

If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.

I am not sure about the plum and apple. I am suddenly realising some of
those growths might be on root stock (if that is the name of the base). I
must go and check. The other three have no root stock. It seems odd that I
am having the same growth on them all.



Thank you for the wonderful response. I am very grateful for the time
and
trouble you have taken.

Book ordered))

Ophelia





You're welcome, Ophelia. Glad you've decided to get the book. You won't
be disappointed.

Thank you! It is due to arrive on 30th

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 26/08/2014 19:28, Ophelia wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message
...

Hi Ophelia, If you cut out the top of the leader, it should certainly
sprout lower down; though whether it sprouts lower down on the leader
or lower in the crown is debatable. I think you should go ahead and
make the cut. Do it in winter since you want to encourage more growth.

Thanks! Will do!


As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water
shoots' (uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous
episode of pruning.

I have never pruned those trees that far down, nor have I ever pruned
the cotoneaster, holly or hydrangea ... ever. Yes they all have a
similar growth.



Sorry, Ophelia, I've just realised that I didn't comment on your other
shrubs and tree. Since I've just let dinner boil over, will you forgive
me if I look in again tomorrow?



If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.

I am not sure about the plum and apple. I am suddenly realising some of
those growths might be on root stock (if that is the name of the base).
I must go and check. The other three have no root stock. It seems odd
that I am having the same growth on them all.



This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.


Thank you for the wonderful response. I am very grateful for the
time and
trouble you have taken.

Book ordered))

Ophelia





You're welcome, Ophelia. Glad you've decided to get the book. You
won't be disappointed.

Thank you! It is due to arrive on 30th


Great! Enjoy!
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message
...

As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water
shoots' (uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous
episode of pruning.

I have never pruned those trees that far down, nor have I ever pruned
the cotoneaster, holly or hydrangea ... ever. Yes they all have a
similar growth.

Sorry, Ophelia, I've just realised that I didn't comment on your other
shrubs and tree. Since I've just let dinner boil over, will you forgive
me if I look in again tomorrow?

Oh dear, I am so sorry about your dinner There is nothing to forgive, I
am
grateful you have been giving me so much of your time and tomorrow would be
wonderful

If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.

I am not sure about the plum and apple. I am suddenly realising some of
those growths might be on root stock (if that is the name of the base).
I must go and check. The other three have no root stock. It seems odd
that I am having the same growth on them all.



This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.

Will do. Thank you
--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

"Ophelia" wrote in message
...

This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.

Will do. Thank you

Hi Spider

Here are some pics as promised:

apple
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxms/3

The new shoots and branches are well below the fruiting top and there is a
big gap between both.

plum
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxoi/3

Once again the new shoots are well below the main top

holly
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxnr/3

This is one new shoot but there are others on the other side. This was the
most clear to show.

cotoneaster
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxno/3

I suspect this is self explanatory I am not sure why the trunk grew
around like this! The wrapping on the side is there because my latest dog
decided it was a tasty place to chew!!!

Thanks for looking if you have the time, but if you haven't, don't worry

Ophelia

ooops forgot the hydrangea

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

"Ophelia" wrote in message
...


"Spider" wrote in message
...

As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water
shoots' (uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous
episode of pruning.

I have never pruned those trees that far down, nor have I ever pruned
the cotoneaster, holly or hydrangea ... ever. Yes they all have a
similar growth.

Sorry, Ophelia, I've just realised that I didn't comment on your other
shrubs and tree. Since I've just let dinner boil over, will you forgive
me if I look in again tomorrow?

Oh dear, I am so sorry about your dinner There is nothing to forgive, I
am
grateful you have been giving me so much of your time and tomorrow would
be
wonderful

If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.

I am not sure about the plum and apple. I am suddenly realising some of
those growths might be on root stock (if that is the name of the base).
I must go and check. The other three have no root stock. It seems odd
that I am having the same growth on them all.



This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.

Will do. Thank you

Hydrangea

http://tinypic.com/3ia48q4y

As you can see, the lower part of the trunk is thick with shoots)

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 27/08/2014 16:20, Ophelia wrote:


"Ophelia" wrote in message
...


"Spider" wrote in message
...

As to "lots of new shoots", I'm wondering if these could be 'water
shoots' (uncharacteristic, straight growths) following a previous
episode of pruning.

I have never pruned those trees that far down, nor have I ever pruned
the cotoneaster, holly or hydrangea ... ever. Yes they all have a
similar growth.

Sorry, Ophelia, I've just realised that I didn't comment on your other
shrubs and tree. Since I've just let dinner boil over, will you forgive
me if I look in again tomorrow?

Oh dear, I am so sorry about your dinner There is nothing to
forgive, I am
grateful you have been giving me so much of your time and tomorrow
would be
wonderful

If they are, you can select some to keep and some
to remove so the crown doesn't get too congested. If they are simply
normal characteristic growths *and* in the right places, then I guess
you're a cheerful rabbit.

I am not sure about the plum and apple. I am suddenly realising
some of
those growths might be on root stock (if that is the name of the base).
I must go and check. The other three have no root stock. It seems odd
that I am having the same growth on them all.



This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.

Will do. Thank you

Hydrangea

http://tinypic.com/3ia48q4y

As you can see, the lower part of the trunk is thick with shoots)




Hi again Ophelia,

I'm dealing with the climbing Hydrangea first as it should be pruned
after flowering, if needed. In fact, The Book says no formative pruning
is necessary. However, looking at your pic, I can see that, indeed,
there is a lot of growth low down. It certainly *looks* healthy enough,
so I'm going for a 'shot in the dark': as far as I can see, no part of
the hydrangea is attached (by aerial roots) to anything, although it
seems to be roughly supported by the trellis behind, and this may be the
problem. (I'm surmising here that the problem is that it is not really
climbing and growing away, but putting all its growth near the bottom of
what is effectively the trunk?)
A climbing hydrangea needs to be tied in to a supporting structure like
a wall or tree until it forms aerial roots and securely attaches itself.
Once it has done this, apparently, it will climb away vigorously. So,
if my surmise is correct, you will need to give it a proper support, tie
young growths in until they 'take' and stand well back.

Hoping this is what you want to hear ;~).

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 27/08/2014 16:15, Ophelia wrote:


"Ophelia" wrote in message
...

This is where a photo would help, if poss. Promise to have another look
tomorrow and fill in anything I missed.

Will do. Thank you

Hi Spider

Here are some pics as promised:

apple
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxms/3

The new shoots and branches are well below the fruiting top and there is
a big gap between both.



It is very sparse, isn't it?! Not just few branches, but few leaves,
too. I'm slightly concerned that the tree appears to be right by paving
slabs or perhaps steps, with grass growing fairly close to it. The
first may prevent water, and therefore nutrients, reaching the tree.
The second is certainly taking nutrients and water from the tree. Even
if the growth were better balanced, you could expect to get 'bitter pit'
in your apples. This occurs when the tree cannot take up enough
calcium. Usually, the calcium is in the soil, but shortage of water
prevents the tree from taking advantage of it in the dissolved form it
needs. If you've had bitter pit in your apples, you will know about it,
because it renders them inedible.

As to pruning, you certainly need to cut back that leader in winter.
There is a significant lower branch crossing and potentially rubbing the
main trunk, or so it appears. You will need to cut this back as far as
the rising upright branch with which it makes a 'V' shape. You will
also need to take out the much smaller branch on the right which is
growing towards the trunk. It appears that the tree has not been well
pruned before, as I'm seeing dead or dying stubs left from old pruning
cuts, and even a tear in the bark higher up where a branch has been
pulled away, rather than cut. All these should be cut out or back to
clean wood, if possible.

Apart from that, I would leave it alone and see how it responds. It is
a mistake to remove too much wood at once. Do your pruning in winter
when the tree is dormant. In Spring, when it starts to put on growth,
give it a feed with general purpose fertiliser. When it starts to
produce fruitlets, give it a high potash feed and keep it well watered.

Sorry, had to do this is in a hurry. Husband Thingy serving dinner!
Hope what I've said makes sense. I'll look in later in case of
questions. (I may have to do the other shrubs/tree on Friday).



plum
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxoi/3

Once again the new shoots are well below the main top

holly
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxnr/3

This is one new shoot but there are others on the other side. This was
the most clear to show.

cotoneaster
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxno/3

I suspect this is self explanatory I am not sure why the trunk grew
around like this! The wrapping on the side is there because my latest
dog decided it was a tasty place to chew!!!

Thanks for looking if you have the time, but if you haven't, don't worry

Ophelia

ooops forgot the hydrangea



--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message
...

Hi again Ophelia,

I'm dealing with the climbing Hydrangea first as it should be pruned after
flowering, if needed. In fact, The Book says no formative pruning is
necessary. However, looking at your pic, I can see that, indeed, there is
a lot of growth low down. It certainly *looks* healthy enough, so I'm
going for a 'shot in the dark': as far as I can see, no part of the
hydrangea is attached (by aerial roots) to anything, although it seems to
be roughly supported by the trellis behind, and this may be the problem.
(I'm surmising here that the problem is that it is not really climbing and
growing away, but putting all its growth near the bottom of what is
effectively the trunk?)

I just didn't understand why the trunk was sprouting so much growth. It
always used to be bare. There has been plenty of growth at the top and
plenty of flowers. Actually almost the whole of the trunk is now lush) I
have never tied it to the trellis, it just seemed to attach itself I will
post a pic of the top if that would be helpful - and if you don't mind? It
would give you a better view. Certainly I have never pruned it. I
wouldn't really know if it needed it or not


A climbing hydrangea needs to be tied in to a supporting structure like a
wall or tree until it forms aerial roots and securely attaches itself.
Once it has done this, apparently, it will climb away vigorously. So, if
my surmise is correct, you will need to give it a proper support, tie
young growths in until they 'take' and stand well back.

Thank you! . I will check it out in the morning and cut out the dead
flowers and make sure it is all secure. It sits next to the cotoneaster so
maybe they support each other



Hoping this is what you want to hear ;~).

Oh yes I am Very Grateful for All your advice! I know very little and
am gardening 'in the dark' if you see what I mean. I have been reading here
and have been learning bit by bit, but not as fully as the advice you are
giving me now))) This is the garden at our cottage and I haven't had too
much time to spend up here anyway, apart from the fact that we have been
travelling with work for several years as well, so this garden has been
somewhat neglected. I will post a pic of the tops ... if that is ok with
you?

Thank you very much!

Ophelia


--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/