Hi All,

I sowed a new lawn back in mid-autumn. Now I can see a lot of weeds
appearing, along with the grass.

I remember seeing a weedkiller in the form of a glue-stick-like product
that you touch onto individual weeds, to kill them, has anyone found such a
product that works? I would like to avoid having to go back over the whole
patch a 2nd time, re-applying, to achieve proper eradication.

Many thanks,

Al

On 27/11/2013 20:13, Jake wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:12:49 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:

On 27 Nov 2013 17:40:45 GMT, Al N wrote:

Hi All,

I sowed a new lawn back in mid-autumn. Now I can see a lot of weeds
appearing, along with the grass.

I remember seeing a weedkiller in the form of a glue-stick-like product
that you touch onto individual weeds, to kill them, has anyone found such a
product that works? I would like to avoid having to go back over the whole
patch a 2nd time, re-applying, to achieve proper eradication.

Many thanks,

Al

You're probably thinking of this:
http://www.roundup-garden.com/roundup-gel
Years ago, I think you could get a similar device containing paraquat.
I'm not sure that paraquat is still available, let alone in stick
form, because it's highly toxic and quite a few people died from
accidental or deliberate ingestion.

But now is not the time to apply it, as it won't be very effective at
this time of year. Nor would I be too worried about weeds in a new
lawn at the moment. Most of them will be annual weeds, that a bit of
mowing next spring will soon see off. The ones that remain can be dug
out individually, or sprayed with a selective hormone weedkiller for
lawns, such as Verdone. But do it in the spring when the grass itself
is a bit more robust.

Adding to Chris's advice, read the label of whatever you buy
carefully. Verdone can be used on lawns 2 months after sowing (though
I'd leave it until at least 3) so using that in the spring will be ok.
But, for example, there's a Vitax product that cannot be used for 12
months.

Similarly, don't be tempted to use combined weed and feed products for
at least 12 months after sowing a lawn.

You'll no doubt appreciate that what both Chris and I say here matches
the advice you were given in September.

Just to add to whats been said, don't buy a stick. Assuming you use a
weedkiller in the garden from time to time, just spray some into a milk
bottle cap and apply with a small paint brush.

--
Pete C
adventure before dementure

On 27/11/2013 19:12, Chris Hogg wrote:
On 27 Nov 2013 17:40:45 GMT, Al N wrote:

Hi All,

I sowed a new lawn back in mid-autumn. Now I can see a lot of weeds
appearing, along with the grass.

I remember seeing a weedkiller in the form of a glue-stick-like product
that you touch onto individual weeds, to kill them, has anyone found such a
product that works? I would like to avoid having to go back over the whole
patch a 2nd time, re-applying, to achieve proper eradication.

Many thanks,

Al

You're probably thinking of this:
http://www.roundup-garden.com/roundup-gel
Years ago, I think you could get a similar device containing paraquat.
I'm not sure that paraquat is still available, let alone in stick
form, because it's highly toxic and quite a few people died from
accidental or deliberate ingestion.

But now is not the time to apply it, as it won't be very effective at
this time of year. Nor would I be too worried about weeds in a new
lawn at the moment. Most of them will be annual weeds, that a bit of
mowing next spring will soon see off. The ones that remain can be dug
out individually, or sprayed with a selective hormone weedkiller for
lawns, such as Verdone. But do it in the spring when the grass itself
is a bit more robust.

Paraquat was chiefly sold as Gramoxone and was chiefly used by
professionals,but was banned by the EU a few years ago.
Diquat is sold as wedol and a few other products but will do your
grass no good. it's a contact killer
I'd do nothing till the spring and then only after you have mown the
grass 2 or 3 times, then decide if you can spot treat or spray the whole
lawn as Jake says.

On 27/11/2013 19:12, Chris Hogg wrote:
On 27 Nov 2013 17:40:45 GMT, Al N wrote:

Hi All,

I sowed a new lawn back in mid-autumn. Now I can see a lot of weeds
appearing, along with the grass.

I remember seeing a weedkiller in the form of a glue-stick-like product
that you touch onto individual weeds, to kill them, has anyone found such a
product that works? I would like to avoid having to go back over the whole
patch a 2nd time, re-applying, to achieve proper eradication.

Many thanks,

Al

You're probably thinking of this:
http://www.roundup-garden.com/roundup-gel

No. It was a broadleaf specific formulation of 24-D in wax that would
kill weeds and not harm the grass at all.

Years ago, I think you could get a similar device containing paraquat.
I'm not sure that paraquat is still available, let alone in stick
form, because it's highly toxic and quite a few people died from
accidental or deliberate ingestion.

It is too late to do anything now this year.

But now is not the time to apply it, as it won't be very effective at
this time of year. Nor would I be too worried about weeds in a new
lawn at the moment. Most of them will be annual weeds, that a bit of
mowing next spring will soon see off. The ones that remain can be dug
out individually, or sprayed with a selective hormone weedkiller for
lawns, such as Verdone. But do it in the spring when the grass itself
is a bit more robust.

General advice is not to hit a newly sown lawn with any weedkiller -
even a broadleaf specific one until it has had six months or so to
estblish itself. I would be inclined to spot weed with a spray wand and
a Verdone mixture, but I don't think you can still get the wax pencils.

The closest now is this (but overpriced)

http://www.doffgarden.co.uk/product/...wn-spot-weeder

I would leave it alone until spring and apply a weed and feed then.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 28/11/2013 09:54, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 09:11:24 +0000, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 27/11/2013 19:12, Chris Hogg wrote:


You're probably thinking of this:
http://www.roundup-garden.com/roundup-gel

No. It was a broadleaf specific formulation of 24-D in wax that would
kill weeds and not harm the grass at all.

Something like this perhaps, although the one I remember was in a
plastic 'extruder', rather like an giant lipstick.
http://tinyurl.com/ktckhzs

Or Pritt with weedkiller in.

I find that a 12" screwdriver is the best way to spot weed an
established lawn of dandelions. Very satisfying to get the entire carrot
root out in one go.

I do a dose of weed and feed in spring most years, but I carefully avoid
killing any nice low growing grassland pasture weeds that have
established themselves in the lawn. I don't want a bowling green.
(part of my front lawn is at an angle close to 1:3)

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Martin Brown wrote in news:JnFlu.86
:

I find that a 12" screwdriver is the best way to spot weed an
established lawn of dandelions.

I'd like to see a video of your technique - it sounds like an efficient
solution for certain weeds.

Thanks to everyone for the good advice shared in this thread. I will leave
it till next Spring and then, if necessary use a selective w/killer and be
sure to read the instructions..

Al

"Martin Brown" wrote (SNIP)

I find that a 12" screwdriver is the best way to spot weed an established
lawn of dandelions. Very satisfying to get the entire carrot root out in
one go.


Yes, I also use an old large knackered screwdriver for weeding the grass and
indeed other jobs where precision is paramount like digging our seedlings
from the border.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

In article ,
says...

"Martin Brown" wrote (SNIP)

I find that a 12" screwdriver is the best way to spot weed an established
lawn of dandelions. Very satisfying to get the entire carrot root out in
one go.


Yes, I also use an old large knackered screwdriver for weeding the grass and
indeed other jobs where precision is paramount like digging our seedlings
from the border.

The previous owner of our previous house left behind a weed-extracting
tool which is like a screwdriver except it's forked at the business end
to fit either side of a taproot. It's not bad but I find an army
survival dagger faster to use. Apparently every boyscout in J's troop
was armed with one from Army and Navy. (What great shops those were).

People lacking a dagger, could use an old carving knife.

Janet.

Janet wrote in news:MPG.2d058890ef6b2339989e15
@news.individual.net:

People lacking a dagger, could use an old carving knife.

I'd still like to see the actual technique employed. Do you kind of stab
the thing to death, or somehow cut around where you hope the root will be?

In article ,
says...

Janet wrote in news:MPG.2d058890ef6b2339989e15
@news.individual.net:

People lacking a dagger, could use an old carving knife.

I'd still like to see the actual technique employed. Do you kind of stab
the thing to death, or somehow cut around where you hope the root will be?

Whichever weed; lift the leaves in one hand so you can see the stem
where it comes out of the ground.

Dandelions and other taproot weeds: From close to the stem, slide the
blade in at an angle,to sever the taproot an inch below ground. Pull out
the top off the plant.

Greater plantains and others with no taproot; slide the blade in and
make a wider cut to sever all the roots. Remove leaf boss.

Both are a single stroke of the blade. Do it when the soil is damp
not rock-hard and it's very quick and easy.

Janet.