For some time I have had, and been very pleased with, an Alko
SP5000 Silent Power Electric Garden Shredder

http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/alko-sp5000-silent-power-electric-garden-shredder.html

It has a reversing switch, to deal with clogging.

Recently, it has sometimes stalled on starting, and the direction
of running seems random, and unconnected with the position of the
reversing switch.

The exploded drawing shows what looks very much like a motor
capacitor which I am guessing has failed.

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

I have seen rather expensive removal tools, with a couple of
pins, but the reviews are, at best, mixed.

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head
with a Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough
edge to engage a screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage
to the surrounding plastic.

Has anybody else had to deal with this?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 25/11/2013 09:59, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Has anybody else had to deal with this?

A left handed drill bit can work wonders (quite often it will free the
screw by itself, if not then you could try a screw extractor once you
have a hole)

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:59:05 +0000, Chris J Dixon wrote:

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head with a
Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough edge to engage a
screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage to the surrounding
plastic.

Since it's clearly outside warranty and you'll not be worried about any
future manufacturer support, the only real problem would be one of
cosmetic damage. I'd have thought a well-used garden shredder would
already be a little, umm, "pre-loved" in appearance anyway.

I'd just do it.

But have you tried drifting it with a small screwdriver or chisel or
similar, first? I can't imagine it's particularly tight. Might just come.

Chris J Dixon wrote:
For some time I have had, and been very pleased with, an Alko
SP5000 Silent Power Electric Garden Shredder

http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/alko-sp5000-silent-power-electric-garden-shredder.html

It has a reversing switch, to deal with clogging.

Recently, it has sometimes stalled on starting, and the direction
of running seems random, and unconnected with the position of the
reversing switch.

The exploded drawing shows what looks very much like a motor
capacitor which I am guessing has failed.

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

I have seen rather expensive removal tools, with a couple of
pins, but the reviews are, at best, mixed.

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head
with a Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough
edge to engage a screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage
to the surrounding plastic.

Has anybody else had to deal with this?

Chris

What *******s! You could perhaps try drilling two small holes (one in each
"ramp") to then allow the use of a modified screwdriver.

Tim

On 25/11/13 09:59, Chris J Dixon wrote:
For some time I have had, and been very pleased with, an Alko
SP5000 Silent Power Electric Garden Shredder

http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/alko-sp5000-silent-power-electric-garden-shredder.html

It has a reversing switch, to deal with clogging.

Recently, it has sometimes stalled on starting, and the direction
of running seems random, and unconnected with the position of the
reversing switch.

The exploded drawing shows what looks very much like a motor
capacitor which I am guessing has failed.

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

I have seen rather expensive removal tools, with a couple of
pins, but the reviews are, at best, mixed.

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head
with a Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough
edge to engage a screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage
to the surrounding plastic.

Has anybody else had to deal with this?

Have you considered a £3.30 "screw remover" such as this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extr...iece-set/18643

Drill pilot hole in screw head, then screw in these
left-handed until tight, and then just continue.

No doubt similar things are widely available elsewhere.

In uk.rec.gardening Chris J Dixon wrote:

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

I have seen rather expensive removal tools, with a couple of
pins, but the reviews are, at best, mixed.

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head
with a Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough
edge to engage a screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage
to the surrounding plastic.


If the screw is close to an edge you may be able to Dremel through the shank
along the join-line.

If you have [access to] a mill and the part is sufficiently robust you can
mill the top off the bolt.

If you have a drill press you might try putting a pair of holes in the
flats and making a pin-tool from a screw-driver (though the "like-this"
part you link to is stainless and hence likely to be tricky to drill).

Extremely unlikely is a through-hole - but if so you could drill through
from the other end; often this will make the screw unscrew.

Tools that won't come apart are for girls.

Antonius Liberalis wrote:

In uk.rec.gardening Chris J Dixon wrote:

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

If the screw is close to an edge you may be able to Dremel through the shank
along the join-line.

No access to the join face

If you have [access to] a mill and the part is sufficiently robust you can
mill the top off the bolt.

I haven't, but this would also take off the surrounding recess,
and I was rather hoping to fasten it together again afterwards.

If you have a drill press you might try putting a pair of holes in the
flats and making a pin-tool from a screw-driver (though the "like-this"
part you link to is stainless and hence likely to be tricky to drill).

I suppose it would just about possible to clamp my bench drill so
that it would overhang the shredder. The screw head is about 6 mm
dia, so the holes would by tiny and, as you say, not easy to
execute.

Extremely unlikely is a through-hole - but if so you could drill through
from the other end; often this will make the screw unscrew.

Access is only from above. The screw is in a recess, and close to
a raised surround, making it pretty tricky to get at. Removing
one of the ordinary screws in the symmetrical location reveals it
to be a self tapper about 20 mm long.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

In uk.rec.gardening Chris J Dixon wrote:

If you have [access to] a mill and the part is sufficiently robust you can
mill the top off the bolt.

I haven't, but this would also take off the surrounding recess,
and I was rather hoping to fasten it together again afterwards.


You say it's about 6mm, plunge mill with a 1/4 flat-bottomed cutter.

(For extra points hand-grind a left-handed one.)

Tom Gardner wrote:

Have you considered a £3.30 "screw remover" such as this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extr...iece-set/18643

Drill pilot hole in screw head, then screw in these
left-handed until tight, and then just continue.

No doubt similar things are widely available elsewhere.

I know of these.

I was able to remove one of the ordinary screws in the
symmetrical location and found it to be a pan head self tapper
about 20 mm long, with a head roughly 7 mm dia.

I'm not sure screw extractors of this type would have enough
metal to get a grip on. It is also interesting that a significant
proportion of the reviews rated it 1 star, not recommended.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Chris J Dixon wrote:


Access is only from above. The screw is in a recess, and close to
a raised surround, making it pretty tricky to get at. Removing
one of the ordinary screws in the symmetrical location reveals it
to be a self tapper about 20 mm long.


How about a diamond tipped screwdriver blade? Apply a lot of pressure and
who knows, you might get lucky.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wera-bitor...5-6-25mm/86103

Not too expensive either.

Tim

On 25/11/2013 10:17, Adrian wrote:
On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:59:05 +0000, Chris J Dixon wrote:

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head with a
Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough edge to engage a
screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage to the surrounding
plastic.

Since it's clearly outside warranty and you'll not be worried about any
future manufacturer support, the only real problem would be one of
cosmetic damage. I'd have thought a well-used garden shredder would
already be a little, umm, "pre-loved" in appearance anyway.

I'd just do it.

But have you tried drifting it with a small screwdriver or chisel or
similar, first? I can't imagine it's particularly tight. Might just come.

I agree, a "chisel" can often be quite effective. I would vote for that
rather than a screwdriver since it will definitely be through-hardened.

I have one which looks a bit like a manual centre punch, except that the
final shank is ground to a square section and instead of coming to a
point, an angled "flat" is ground on it so that one corner serves as the
sharp point which you use to attack the screw head in a tangential
direction.

On 25/11/2013 13:02, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Access is only from above. The screw is in a recess, and close to
a raised surround, making it pretty tricky to get at. Removing
one of the ordinary screws in the symmetrical location reveals it
to be a self tapper about 20 mm long.

Have you considered trying to over-tighten it such that you strip the
threads from the hole?

Then using a slightly larger diameter self tapper to replace it. (or
filling the stripped hole with epoxy etc).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tim+ wrote:

How about a diamond tipped screwdriver blade? Apply a lot of pressure and
who knows, you might get lucky.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wera-bitor...5-6-25mm/86103

Not too expensive either.

That's an interesting thought, and as you say, cheap enough to
try.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

In article , Chris J Dixon
writes

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product...Y-R/H-MACHINE-
SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

I may be missing something but can't you just drill the head off?

Centre punch the middle of the head and drill with the largest dia drill
that will fit between the lobes. Even if the shank isn't parted by the
time you are through the head then it will be seriously weakened and
turning the screw so as to tighten it should shear it off.

Once it is apart, remove the shank by gripping the remnants in pliers or
mole grips and replace with a plain self tapper.

Next time Lidl/Aldi have an offer on, buy a set of screw extractors ;-)
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message
...
For some time I have had, and been very pleased with, an Alko
SP5000 Silent Power Electric Garden Shredder

http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/alko-sp5000-silent-power-electric-garden-shredder.html

It has a reversing switch, to deal with clogging.

Recently, it has sometimes stalled on starting, and the direction
of running seems random, and unconnected with the position of the
reversing switch.

The exploded drawing shows what looks very much like a motor
capacitor which I am guessing has failed.

Further investigation is currently blocked, as one of the screws
in the top moulding, which is the first step to dismantling the
machine, has a one way head, looking rather like this:

http://www.alliedboltinc.com/product/10-24-X-1-inch-ONE-WAY-R/H-MACHINE-SCREW-STAINLESS~2263.aspx

and it fits in a recess.

I have seen rather expensive removal tools, with a couple of
pins, but the reviews are, at best, mixed.

The simplest, and crudest, solution is the attack the screw head
with a Dremel cutting disk, and attempt to cut a sharp enough
edge to engage a screwdriver. This will inevitably cause damage
to the surrounding plastic.

Has anybody else had to deal with this?


I have a similar machine (Alko3500)
The reversing switch (adjacent to the on off switch) is a bit dodgy on mine.
(Poor design)
I have had to fiddle with it a couple of times.

Also there is an overload device that reverses the machine if it jams. This
might cause your problem.

If the capacitor was faulty, it wouldn't run at all, it would just hum.