Reorganising the fruiting area on the allotment. I need to move one each of
apple, pear, plum and cherry. These are the type that have been grafted on
to dwarf stock. When is the best time to move and will they need watering
in?

I have a couple of dozen raspberries, both summer fruiting and ever bearing.
When is the safest time for these to be moved please. Thanks in
anticipation. Location E.Cornwall, 8 miles inland, 500' amsl, East facing.

On 07/10/2013 11:12, Bertie Doe wrote:
Reorganising the fruiting area on the allotment. I need to move one each
of apple, pear, plum and cherry. These are the type that have been
grafted on to dwarf stock. When is the best time to move and will they
need watering in?

I have a couple of dozen raspberries, both summer fruiting and ever
bearing. When is the safest time for these to be moved please. Thanks in
anticipation. Location E.Cornwall, 8 miles inland, 500' amsl, East facing.


You don't say how long the fruit trees have been in their existing
positions.
If it's a year or so no problem, If it's 10 years a lot of problems.

"Bertie Doe" wrote in
:

Reorganising the fruiting area on the allotment. I need to move one
each of apple, pear, plum and cherry. These are the type that have
been grafted on to dwarf stock. When is the best time to move and will
they need watering in?

I have a couple of dozen raspberries, both summer fruiting and ever
bearing. When is the safest time for these to be moved please. Thanks
in anticipation. Location E.Cornwall, 8 miles inland, 500' amsl, East
facing.




The best time is when they are dormant. When the leaves(leafs?) have
dropped in autumn.
Some blood, fish and bone in the hole too. I think it is a good idea to
water them in, after firming the soil, it helps compact the soil so the
winds don't blow them over.
The apple, pear, plum and cherry might need staking after the replant!
(windy conditions again can blow them over)

Hope this helps.
Baz

"Jake" wrote in message ...

On Mon, 07 Oct 2013 11:19:35 +0100, David Hill
wrote:

On 07/10/2013 11:12, Bertie Doe wrote:
Reorganising the fruiting area on the allotment. I need to move one each
of apple, pear, plum and cherry. These are the type that have been
grafted on to dwarf stock. When is the best time to move and will they
need watering in?

I have a couple of dozen raspberries, both summer fruiting and ever
bearing. When is the safest time for these to be moved please. Thanks in
anticipation. Location E.Cornwall, 8 miles inland, 500' amsl, East
facing.


You don't say how long the fruit trees have been in their existing
positions.
If it's a year or so no problem, If it's 10 years a lot of problems.

/To get a rough idea, the root system underground will spread to match
/the tree canopy above ground and then a bit more. For the columnar
/trees, the roots spread to match the height. I have a 7-year-old dwarf
/apple that fruits in a column close to the trunk. It's about a
/metre-and-a-half high and its roots have spread out about a metre from
/the trunk. Shifting that would involve a 2-metre-diameter operation!
/
/So digging them up could involve trenching round, and under, a very
/large root ball. As Dave says, even for dwarf trees, you'll have a lot
/of probs if they are 10 years old; I'd add that you may find the
/effort in moving 5 year old trees enough to justify investing in new
/ones.
/
/You will have to water them in, and probably continue watering them as
/needed for 12 months while the roots recover from the disturbance. If
/the trees don't look healthy as fruits develop next year, it would
/probably be best to remove those fruits as they appear so the tree
/puts more of its energy into itself rather than its fruits.
/
/Might also be worth checking your allotment rules. Some local
/authorities are getting tough on trees - existing trees are ok but no
/new ones are allowed. Shifting a tree may move it into the "new one"
/category.

David these grafted trees were purchased Spring 2010, the spread is about 4
feet. Just one conference pear this year.

They are in the middle of the allotment and very exposed to the Easterlies.
Live or die, they will get moved closer to the terraced houses. Added
bonus - I can do just ONE nice run with the rotavator in 2014, instead of
the two bites at present.

Jake I own the allotment. When the terrace was built for miners, the 24
allotments provided grub for the families. Each house had a stone piggery at
the end of the back garden. Sadly all (bar one) of the piggeries have been
demolished for car use.

"Baz" wrote in message ...
/
/The best time is when they are dormant. When the leaves(leafs?) have
/dropped in autumn.
/Some blood, fish and bone in the hole too. I think it is a good idea to
/water them in, after firming the soil, it helps compact the soil so the
/winds don't blow them over.
/The apple, pear, plum and cherry might need staking after the replant!
/(windy conditions again can blow them over)

Fortunately I have a box of BF&B. I knew it would be handy. They're already
staked, so the stakes will move with them to the more sheltered spot.

p.s. David ref recent post. The cherry (sweet variety) was bought in Spring.
The 2010 cherry was killed in the 2010/2011 Winter. A neighbouring allotment
also lost his (morello) grafted cherry. I also lost a 7 year old garden
wisteria that same Winter. Annoying has I had to wait 3 years for the first
flower.

On 07/10/2013 15:01, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Jake" wrote in message ...

On Mon, 07 Oct 2013 11:19:35 +0100, David Hill
wrote:

On 07/10/2013 11:12, Bertie Doe wrote:
Reorganising the fruiting area on the allotment. I need to move one each
of apple, pear, plum and cherry. These are the type that have been
grafted on to dwarf stock. When is the best time to move and will they
need watering in?

I have a couple of dozen raspberries, both summer fruiting and ever
bearing. When is the safest time for these to be moved please. Thanks in
anticipation. Location E.Cornwall, 8 miles inland, 500' amsl, East
facing.


You don't say how long the fruit trees have been in their existing
positions.
If it's a year or so no problem, If it's 10 years a lot of problems.

/To get a rough idea, the root system underground will spread to match
/the tree canopy above ground and then a bit more. For the columnar
/trees, the roots spread to match the height. I have a 7-year-old dwarf
/apple that fruits in a column close to the trunk. It's about a
/metre-and-a-half high and its roots have spread out about a metre from
/the trunk. Shifting that would involve a 2-metre-diameter operation!
/
/So digging them up could involve trenching round, and under, a very
/large root ball. As Dave says, even for dwarf trees, you'll have a lot
/of probs if they are 10 years old; I'd add that you may find the
/effort in moving 5 year old trees enough to justify investing in new
/ones.
/
/You will have to water them in, and probably continue watering them as
/needed for 12 months while the roots recover from the disturbance. If
/the trees don't look healthy as fruits develop next year, it would
/probably be best to remove those fruits as they appear so the tree
/puts more of its energy into itself rather than its fruits.
/
/Might also be worth checking your allotment rules. Some local
/authorities are getting tough on trees - existing trees are ok but no
/new ones are allowed. Shifting a tree may move it into the "new one"
/category.

David these grafted trees were purchased Spring 2010, the spread is
about 4 feet. Just one conference pear this year.

They are in the middle of the allotment and very exposed to the
Easterlies. Live or die, they will get moved closer to the terraced
houses. Added bonus - I can do just ONE nice run with the rotavator in
2014, instead of the two bites at present.

Jake I own the allotment. When the terrace was built for miners, the 24
allotments provided grub for the families. Each house had a stone
piggery at the end of the back garden. Sadly all (bar one) of the
piggeries have been demolished for car use.

So you are looking at 5 year old trees, I'd dig around the trees at
about 2ft out from the trunk, I wouldn't worry about trying to save a
root ball, I suspect the soil will come off unless you have heavy soil.
The thickest roots can be pruned back a little, but try to preserve as
much of the smaller roots.
Have the planting holes ready so that as soon as you lift you can move
the tree into it's new home with as little shock as possible, so that
it's not lying on the surface for any amount of time.

On 07/10/2013 15:10, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Baz" wrote in message ...
/
/The best time is when they are dormant. When the leaves(leafs?) have
/dropped in autumn.
/Some blood, fish and bone in the hole too. I think it is a good idea to
/water them in, after firming the soil, it helps compact the soil so the
/winds don't blow them over.
/The apple, pear, plum and cherry might need staking after the replant!
/(windy conditions again can blow them over)

Fortunately I have a box of BF&B. I knew it would be handy. They're
already staked, so the stakes will move with them to the more sheltered
spot.

p.s. David ref recent post. The cherry (sweet variety) was bought in
Spring. The 2010 cherry was killed in the 2010/2011 Winter. A
neighbouring allotment also lost his (morello) grafted cherry. I also
lost a 7 year old garden wisteria that same Winter. Annoying has I had
to wait 3 years for the first flower.


I would be more inclined to stake them with an angled stake facing into
the prevailing wind.
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/...e.aspx?PID=208

"David Hill" wrote in message ...

On 07/10/2013 15:10, Bertie Doe wrote:


p.s. David ref recent post. The cherry (sweet variety) was bought in
Spring. The 2010 cherry was killed in the 2010/2011 Winter. A
neighbouring allotment also lost his (morello) grafted cherry. I also
lost a 7 year old garden wisteria that same Winter. Annoying has I had
to wait 3 years for the first flower.


I would be more inclined to stake them with an angled stake facing into the
prevailing wind.
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/...e.aspx?PID=208

Neat idea, should reduce wind rock. There's a cold snap forecast for Thurs
onwards. Should I say, wait a week or two? They may be more dormant after
the cold has set in?

On 07/10/2013 18:44, Bertie Doe wrote:


"David Hill" wrote in message ...

On 07/10/2013 15:10, Bertie Doe wrote:


p.s. David ref recent post. The cherry (sweet variety) was bought in
Spring. The 2010 cherry was killed in the 2010/2011 Winter. A
neighbouring allotment also lost his (morello) grafted cherry. I also
lost a 7 year old garden wisteria that same Winter. Annoying has I had
to wait 3 years for the first flower.


I would be more inclined to stake them with an angled stake facing
into the prevailing wind.
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/...e.aspx?PID=208

Neat idea, should reduce wind rock. There's a cold snap forecast for
Thurs onwards. Should I say, wait a week or two? They may be more
dormant after the cold has set in?


Once the leaves are off.

"David Hill" wrote in message ...

So you are looking at 5 year old trees, I'd dig around the trees at about
2ft out from the trunk, I wouldn't worry about trying to save a root ball,
I suspect the soil will come off unless you have heavy soil.
The thickest roots can be pruned back a little, but try to preserve as much
of the smaller roots.
Have the planting holes ready so that as soon as you lift you can move the
tree into it's new home with as little shock as possible, so that it's not
lying on the surface for any amount of time.


I moved them yesterday and there were a couple of things that surprised me.
Firstly the root ball was only about 18" dia. Expecting more as the spread
is about 5' (on average).

Secondly, the soil was much drier than expected. This may be down to the
fact that the allotment is on a 12:1 slope.

I added half bucket of water to each planting hole. Should I continue adding
water at say, weekly intervals? TIA.

On 13/10/2013 15:37, Bertie Doe wrote:


"David Hill" wrote in message ...

So you are looking at 5 year old trees, I'd dig around the trees at
about 2ft out from the trunk, I wouldn't worry about trying to save a
root ball, I suspect the soil will come off unless you have heavy soil.
The thickest roots can be pruned back a little, but try to preserve as
much of the smaller roots.
Have the planting holes ready so that as soon as you lift you can move
the tree into it's new home with as little shock as possible, so that
it's not lying on the surface for any amount of time.


I moved them yesterday and there were a couple of things that surprised
me. Firstly the root ball was only about 18" dia. Expecting more as the
spread is about 5' (on average).

Secondly, the soil was much drier than expected. This may be down to the
fact that the allotment is on a 12:1 slope.

I added half bucket of water to each planting hole. Should I continue
adding water at say, weekly intervals? TIA.


I hope you did that after planting, that way you wash the soil in
amongst the roots rather than planting into mud if you di it before
planting.
I'd have given them at least a bucket each if not 2 over about 30 mins.

"David Hill" wrote in message ...

On 13/10/2013 15:37, Bertie Doe wrote:


"David Hill" wrote in message ...

So you are looking at 5 year old trees, I'd dig around the trees at
about 2ft out from the trunk, I wouldn't worry about trying to save a
root ball, I suspect the soil will come off unless you have heavy soil.
The thickest roots can be pruned back a little, but try to preserve as
much of the smaller roots.
Have the planting holes ready so that as soon as you lift you can move
the tree into it's new home with as little shock as possible, so that
it's not lying on the surface for any amount of time.


I moved them yesterday and there were a couple of things that surprised
me. Firstly the root ball was only about 18" dia. Expecting more as the
spread is about 5' (on average).

Secondly, the soil was much drier than expected. This may be down to the
fact that the allotment is on a 12:1 slope.

I added half bucket of water to each planting hole. Should I continue
adding water at say, weekly intervals? TIA.


/I hope you did that after planting, that way you wash the soil in
/amongst the roots rather than planting into mud if you di it before
/planting.
/I'd have given them at least a bucket each if not 2 over about 30 mins.

I placed tree in hole, added half the soil, added water, then topped up with
soil. Fortunately I've left a 2" dip around the trees, so I'll add more
water now.