Hi,

2nd attempt - less wordy version

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year, and
don't mind being on a north wall (good light, no direct sunlight). I want to
cover a wall with a mixture of things.

If some happen to be edible - that would be a bonus...

Any suggestions would be most appreciated :

Thank you kindly -

Tim
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On 31/07/2013 22:30, Tim Watts wrote:

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year

Good luck with that, as they say :-)

On Thursday 01 August 2013 08:43 stuart noble wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

On 31/07/2013 22:30, Tim Watts wrote:

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year

Good luck with that, as they say :-)

Well, ivy would work. But I was after a bit of variety ;-

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On 31/07/2013 22:30, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

2nd attempt - less wordy version

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year, and
don't mind being on a north wall (good light, no direct sunlight). I want to
cover a wall with a mixture of things.

If some happen to be edible - that would be a bonus...

Any suggestions would be most appreciated :

Thank you kindly -

Tim




You don't say how big your troughs are but, if there *is* good light,
you could try Skimmia, Fuchsia, Begonia, Impatiens, Ajuga and Vinca (as
fill-in trailers), Polyanthus primulas, Heucheras (for both foliage and
flowers), Campanula portenschlagiana, Brunnera 'Jack Frost'(small blue
flowers in spring), smaller Hellebores and smaller Bergenias. You could
use early spring bulbs like Snowdrops (Galanthus) and Crocus (I have
some in a north-facing woodland border) to start the year off and feed
early-flying insects.

The nature of most woodland flowers is to flower early before the tree
canopy steals all the light, so you probably won't get year-round colour
from flowers. However, by using foliage colour with Heucheras and
Brunnera 'Jack Frost'and variegated Fuchsias and euonymous, you will be
able to create longer lasting colour. It is also true to say that even
the flowering plants may flower less in shade than in sun, but you
should still get a reasonable show.

Because some of the foliage plants I've suggested make large, bold
leaves, you may need to keep a close eye on watering as rainfall may not
reach the soil due to the 'umbrella' effect. Also, if a bird chooses to
nest in your troughs, you may not be able to interfere until the
flegdelings have flown.

Hope this helps.

--
Spider
from high ground in SE London
gardening on clay

On Thursday 01 August 2013 12:54 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

On 31/07/2013 22:30, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

2nd attempt - less wordy version

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year, and
don't mind being on a north wall (good light, no direct sunlight). I want
to cover a wall with a mixture of things.

If some happen to be edible - that would be a bonus...

Any suggestions would be most appreciated :

Thank you kindly -


You don't say how big your troughs

Probably these:

http://www.primrose.co.uk/-p-39577.html

Becase the price is reasonable and available in many lengths. Mine would
vary between 2 foot - 4 foot long. I'm guessing the dimensions are around
8x8 inches in the other dimensions.

are but, if there *is* good light,
you could try Skimmia, Fuchsia, Begonia, Impatiens, Ajuga and Vinca (as
fill-in trailers), Polyanthus primulas, Heucheras (for both foliage and
flowers), Campanula portenschlagiana, Brunnera 'Jack Frost'(small blue
flowers in spring), smaller Hellebores and smaller Bergenias.

Thanks

I just google-imaged all of those with the word "hanging" suffixed and they
all look interesting.

In particular, Campanula portenschlagiana looks like something that would
suit the area - and I am really taken by the leaves on Heucheras - I thing
that would be a very good blend with some of the others - always some colour
and variation.


You could
use early spring bulbs like Snowdrops (Galanthus) and Crocus (I have
some in a north-facing woodland border) to start the year off and feed
early-flying insects.

Genius - I had not thought of bulbs in wall planters - plant and forget, big
surprise at the right time.

The nature of most woodland flowers is to flower early before the tree
canopy steals all the light, so you probably won't get year-round colour
from flowers. However, by using foliage colour with Heucheras and
Brunnera 'Jack Frost'and variegated Fuchsias and euonymous, you will be
able to create longer lasting colour. It is also true to say that even
the flowering plants may flower less in shade than in sun, but you
should still get a reasonable show.

That's what I'm hoping for. This isn't the Chelsea Flower Show ;- all I'm
after is some low maintenance softening and interest factor on a very boring
wall that is near where people might be sitting.


Because some of the foliage plants I've suggested make large, bold
leaves, you may need to keep a close eye on watering as rainfall may not
reach the soil due to the 'umbrella' effect.

That's OK - I will have micro-irrigation as part of the scheme. I learnt 2
years ago that we're all too busy to reliable water loads of plants, so I
factored that in before starting.

Here's my new garden "tap":

http://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwat...7634844418238/

The 3 washing machine valves are permanant conenctions for water computers.
I will probably use 2, but the effort to put 3 in was minimal. Right side is
a hose conenction and left is bucket/hand washing/drinking (with hot feed
once I have a hot feed up above).

Micro irrigation will be Gardena with the main pipe tie wrapped to the top
of the gutter out of sight running round the whole house with 5mm drop pipes
to wall troughts and baskets.


The fact that the plants are getting raw tap water may be a factor (I know
some plants are not keen on the hardness or chlorine) so we'll have to see
what lives.

I figure that by planting a mixture, I'll get a reasonable amount of
successes.


I wonder if, being a north wall, I might be able to get a fern or two to
grow as well? I can have some mist heads rather than or as well as drip
heads.

Also, if a bird chooses to
nest in your troughs, you may not be able to interfere until the
flegdelings have flown.

In this location that would not be a problem - good warning through - had
not thought of that,




Hope this helps.

It definately does Thanks again - some great ideas.


I'll be doing the other walls too - but they all have sun, so I'll probably
go for some edibles like tomatoes, strawberries and herbs (best keep herbs
to themselves away from inedible plants).

I'm not really a "flower bed" person - preferring grass and shrubs down
there - but I really like hanging stuff.

This is near where I work - fantastic. I am not aiming for this level, but
it always pleases me to walk past the

http://tinyurl.com/lctx6nd

https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=drury+lane,
+london&hl=en&ll=51.513724,-0.120045&spn=0.005548,0.013872&sll=41.859361,-87.952881&sspn=0.013281,0.027745&hq=drury+lane,&hn ear=London,
+United+Kingdom&t=m&fll=51.513423,-0.121515&fspn=0.005548,0.013872&z=17&layer=c&cbll= 51.513661,-0.119951&panoid=08QIvRdTw5hVXKzdCB7hmw&cbp=12,72.9 4,,0,-0.49&source=gplus-
ogsb


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On 01/08/2013 14:19, Tim Watts wrote:
On Thursday 01 August 2013 12:54 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

On 31/07/2013 22:30, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

2nd attempt - less wordy version

I'm after some ideas for wall trough plants that look good all year, and
don't mind being on a north wall (good light, no direct sunlight). I want
to cover a wall with a mixture of things.

If some happen to be edible - that would be a bonus...

Any suggestions would be most appreciated :

Thank you kindly -


You don't say how big your troughs

Probably these:

http://www.primrose.co.uk/-p-39577.html

Becase the price is reasonable and available in many lengths. Mine would
vary between 2 foot - 4 foot long. I'm guessing the dimensions are around
8x8 inches in the other dimensions.



Using bigger ones will offer more root space and greater impact when
planted. Might help to line them with plastic so the water doesn't drain
straight out. Even perforated plastic would help.



are but, if there *is* good light,
you could try Skimmia, Fuchsia, Begonia, Impatiens, Ajuga and Vinca (as
fill-in trailers), Polyanthus primulas, Heucheras (for both foliage and
flowers), Campanula portenschlagiana, Brunnera 'Jack Frost'(small blue
flowers in spring), smaller Hellebores and smaller Bergenias.

Thanks

I just google-imaged all of those with the word "hanging" suffixed and they
all look interesting.

In particular, Campanula portenschlagiana looks like something that would
suit the area - and I am really taken by the leaves on Heucheras - I thing
that would be a very good blend with some of the others - always some colour
and variation.


You could
use early spring bulbs like Snowdrops (Galanthus) and Crocus (I have
some in a north-facing woodland border) to start the year off and feed
early-flying insects.

Genius - I had not thought of bulbs in wall planters - plant and forget, big
surprise at the right time.

The nature of most woodland flowers is to flower early before the tree
canopy steals all the light, so you probably won't get year-round colour
from flowers. However, by using foliage colour with Heucheras and
Brunnera 'Jack Frost'and variegated Fuchsias and euonymous, you will be
able to create longer lasting colour. It is also true to say that even
the flowering plants may flower less in shade than in sun, but you
should still get a reasonable show.

That's what I'm hoping for. This isn't the Chelsea Flower Show ;- all I'm
after is some low maintenance softening and interest factor on a very boring
wall that is near where people might be sitting.


Because some of the foliage plants I've suggested make large, bold
leaves, you may need to keep a close eye on watering as rainfall may not
reach the soil due to the 'umbrella' effect.

That's OK - I will have micro-irrigation as part of the scheme. I learnt 2
years ago that we're all too busy to reliable water loads of plants, so I
factored that in before starting.

Here's my new garden "tap":

http://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwat...7634844418238/



Wow. I think I saw something like that on the Starship Enterprise!
Don't forget to factor in plant food as you water, or your plants will
soon starve and won't perform well.

The 3 washing machine valves are permanant conenctions for water computers.
I will probably use 2, but the effort to put 3 in was minimal. Right side is
a hose conenction and left is bucket/hand washing/drinking (with hot feed
once I have a hot feed up above).

Micro irrigation will be Gardena with the main pipe tie wrapped to the top
of the gutter out of sight running round the whole house with 5mm drop pipes
to wall troughts and baskets.


The fact that the plants are getting raw tap water may be a factor (I know
some plants are not keen on the hardness or chlorine) so we'll have to see
what lives.



If you've got really hard water, the Skimmia might sulk, but you could
use an acid feed to help overcome that.



I figure that by planting a mixture, I'll get a reasonable amount of
successes.


I wonder if, being a north wall, I might be able to get a fern or two to
grow as well? I can have some mist heads rather than or as well as drip
heads.



Yes, I should have mentioned ferns. Thought of them as soon as I
clicked 'sent' :-/. Spend some time reading about ferns before you
choose. Some like it damp, some tolerate it drier. Some are evergreen,
some not.

Also have a google (or buy a good book) on plants for shade. There are
some great plant for shady areas which you might be able to use. I
would have liked to suggest Anemone hupehensis (sp?) and hydrida types
for autumn flowering, but don't know if you'll have enough light. You
may like to give them a try, as they're beautiful plants.



Also, if a bird chooses to
nest in your troughs, you may not be able to interfere until the
flegdelings have flown.

In this location that would not be a problem - good warning through - had
not thought of that,



You may be surprised. Birds generally don't like to nest in full sun,
so north-facing may be fine. They may not be put off by passers-by, as
I've seen garden centre hanging baskets commandeered by wrens! Further,
they may like to steal nesting material from your basket liners!



Hope this helps.

It definately does Thanks again - some great ideas.


I'll be doing the other walls too - but they all have sun, so I'll probably
go for some edibles like tomatoes, strawberries and herbs (best keep herbs
to themselves away from inedible plants).

I'm not really a "flower bed" person - preferring grass and shrubs down
there - but I really like hanging stuff.

This is near where I work - fantastic. I am not aiming for this level, but
it always pleases me to walk past the

http://tinyurl.com/lctx6nd



I can understand why you're so inspired. Lovely!

https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=drury+lane,
+london&hl=en&ll=51.513724,-0.120045&spn=0.005548,0.013872&sll=41.859361,-87.952881&sspn=0.013281,0.027745&hq=drury+lane,&hn ear=London,
+United+Kingdom&t=m&fll=51.513423,-0.121515&fspn=0.005548,0.013872&z=17&layer=c&cbll= 51.513661,-0.119951&panoid=08QIvRdTw5hVXKzdCB7hmw&cbp=12,72.9 4,,0,-0.49&source=gplus-
ogsb


Good luck with your planting. Show us some pictures in due course.

--
Spider
from high ground in SE London
gardening on clay

On Thursday 01 August 2013 16:38 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:


Becase the price is reasonable and available in many lengths. Mine would
vary between 2 foot - 4 foot long. I'm guessing the dimensions are around
8x8 inches in the other dimensions.



Using bigger ones will offer more root space and greater impact when
planted. Might help to line them with plastic so the water doesn't drain
straight out. Even perforated plastic would help.

That's an idea...

Here's my new garden "tap":

http://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwat...7634844418238/



Wow. I think I saw something like that on the Starship Enterprise!
Don't forget to factor in plant food as you water, or your plants will
soon starve and won't perform well.

I enjoyed that job - the fiddly bits up above would be the same either way -
and I used to get really fed up taking a hose on and off, not to mention the
water computer. Mounted a decent hose reel just to the right. Just need to
add pipe insulation and some upturned brown guttering that happend to slip
right over the decking planks that the pipes are mounted on - then it will
blend in being mostly brown.


I was wondering whether to get the inline fertilizer doser - but I'm not
sure if all the plants will want the same feed.

Perhaps feed everything generic feed and directly apply specialist feed to
say tomatoes.


The fact that the plants are getting raw tap water may be a factor (I
know some plants are not keen on the hardness or chlorine) so we'll have
to see what lives.



If you've got really hard water, the Skimmia might sulk, but you could
use an acid feed to help overcome that.

Oh - I did not know about acid feeds - will google. Invaluable tip - thanks




I figure that by planting a mixture, I'll get a reasonable amount of
successes.


I wonder if, being a north wall, I might be able to get a fern or two to
grow as well? I can have some mist heads rather than or as well as drip
heads.



Yes, I should have mentioned ferns. Thought of them as soon as I
clicked 'sent' :-/. Spend some time reading about ferns before you
choose. Some like it damp, some tolerate it drier. Some are evergreen,
some not.

Also have a google (or buy a good book) on plants for shade. There are
some great plant for shady areas which you might be able to use. I
would have liked to suggest Anemone hupehensis (sp?) and hydrida types
for autumn flowering, but don't know if you'll have enough light. You
may like to give them a try, as they're beautiful plants.


Excellent - thanks again


I can understand why you're so inspired. Lovely!

https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=drury+lane,

+london&hl=en&ll=51.513724,-0.120045&spn=0.005548,0.013872&sll=41.859361,-87.952881&sspn=0.013281,0.027745&hq=drury+lane,&hn ear=London,

+United+Kingdom&t=m&fll=51.513423,-0.121515&fspn=0.005548,0.013872&z=17&layer=c&cbll= 51.513661,-0.119951&panoid=08QIvRdTw5hVXKzdCB7hmw&cbp=12,72.9 4,,0,-0.49&source=gplus-
ogsb


Good luck with your planting. Show us some pictures in due course.

Will do

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On Thursday 01 August 2013 16:38 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

Good luck with your planting. Show us some pictures in due course.

Thanks again.

Just wanted to add: searching for one of the plants you mentioned randomly
brought up:

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/plantselector/

which has a nice searching function and fills in the details about water,
soil and light requirements.

I did not know about that site - seems useful

PS -

"acid feed" -

Would something like this:

http://www.housewaresonline.co.uk/ga...re-plant-food-
doff-1492105-ericaceous-plant-feed-1ltr-p-262.html

blended with neutral feed to achieve neutral pH water (at the correct dosing
rate), be a sensible approach?

I'm not even sure what our water is like here (East Sussex) - but I know how
to test it

On another tanget, seems most of my herbs would like good sun (with the
exception of coriander which apparantly makes more leaves in part shade) -
so they sound like good candidates for the front, which is handy as that's
where the kitchen is anyway!

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On 02/08/2013 08:56, Tim Watts wrote:
On Thursday 01 August 2013 16:38 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

Good luck with your planting. Show us some pictures in due course.

Thanks again.

Just wanted to add: searching for one of the plants you mentioned randomly
brought up:

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/plantselector/

which has a nice searching function and fills in the details about water,
soil and light requirements.

I did not know about that site - seems useful



Yes, I can see it would be very useful for your wrap-round wall
plantings. Good site.



PS -

"acid feed" -

Would something like this:

http://www.housewaresonline.co.uk/ga...re-plant-food-
doff-1492105-ericaceous-plant-feed-1ltr-p-262.html

blended with neutral feed to achieve neutral pH water (at the correct dosing
rate), be a sensible approach?

I'm not even sure what our water is like here (East Sussex) - but I know how
to test it




I couldn't see your link, Tim, but I use a liguid ericaceous food when
watering. If I'm blending compost, I mix in granular food with the
soil. Use whichever suits your watering system. As you surmise,
ericaceous food can be used at a weak dilution to soften hard water, as
well as at instructed dilution for feeding.

Aside from ericaceous plants, most plants (esp. in containers) need a
general purpose feed to start the year. However, many specialised
'container' composts come with added fertiliser *and* water retaining
gel. Read the packaging to see when/if you need to start feeding. High
Potash fertiliser (Tomorite, etc.) is used to promote flowering and
ripening of the plant and its fruit. After the end of July, do not use
any nitrogenous feed as it will promote soft growth which will be
damaged by early frosts.

It's worth mentioning that if your home water supply has an added water
softening device, then it is likely to be harmful to your plants.



On another tanget, seems most of my herbs would like good sun (with the
exception of coriander which apparantly makes more leaves in part shade) -
so they sound like good candidates for the front, which is handy as that's
where the kitchen is anyway!



Yes, that's generally true. The sun intensifies the natural plant oils,
giving better flavour. If you grow marjoram and thyme, it is worth
letting them flower (or growing spare plants) because it attracts both
bees and butterflies. Read up on freezing herbs, too, so you have some
to use in the winter.

--
Spider
from high ground in SE London
gardening on clay

On Friday 02 August 2013 14:27 Spider wrote in uk.rec.gardening:

Hi,

I couldn't see your link, Tim, but I use a liguid ericaceous food when
watering. If I'm blending compost, I mix in granular food with the
soil. Use whichever suits your watering system. As you surmise,
ericaceous food can be used at a weak dilution to soften hard water, as
well as at instructed dilution for feeding.

Aside from ericaceous plants, most plants (esp. in containers) need a
general purpose feed to start the year. However, many specialised
'container' composts come with added fertiliser *and* water retaining
gel. Read the packaging to see when/if you need to start feeding. High
Potash fertiliser (Tomorite, etc.) is used to promote flowering and
ripening of the plant and its fruit. After the end of July, do not use
any nitrogenous feed as it will promote soft growth which will be
damaged by early frosts.

I look ed hard at the Gardena inline fertilizer unit - it's pretty dumb. It
basically has a little tank and an in and an out port. I summised that it
basically loads the entire load into the first 1/2l of water that goes
through - ie it is a "one shot, but for all the plants". You have to load it
once every X days.

After that I concluded that it would be easier and better just to go around
with a watering can once a week and give each plant what it actually needs.

Unlike watering, a missed session will not kill anything.

It's worth mentioning that if your home water supply has an added water
softening device, then it is likely to be harmful to your plants.

Good point - no I don't.

I was considering adding a very simple/inexpensive carbon block/ceramic
cartidge filter to the outlet of the water computer to knock out most of the
the chlorine and some of the hardness.

A filter element is likely to last a year at the flow I'm likely to use.





On another tanget, seems most of my herbs would like good sun (with the
exception of coriander which apparantly makes more leaves in part shade)
- so they sound like good candidates for the front, which is handy as
that's where the kitchen is anyway!



Yes, that's generally true. The sun intensifies the natural plant oils,
giving better flavour. If you grow marjoram and thyme, it is worth
letting them flower (or growing spare plants) because it attracts both
bees and butterflies. Read up on freezing herbs, too, so you have some
to use in the winter.


Cool

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage