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#1
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Taking cutting of alder
Following advice on the ng, stuck twigs of alder into the ground in
the hope that they would sprout. They haven't, well, not yet. Following advice of this ng, I bought a "Hydropod Propagator" from Greenhouse Sensation. The cuttings grew, and then died. They never produced any roots. But this device seems to be aimed at green stems rather than hardwood cuttings. So what should I try now? The buds now have 2 -3 leaves, not fully open. A "Mist propagator such as I knew in my youth seems to be what's wanted; an electrically heated bed of compost and sand, with a spray controlled by an "electronic leaf" seems to be what's wanted. Any recommendations? And what about lighting levels and other those details which seem to be too small mention, but which make all the difference? Michael Bell -- |
#2
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Taking cutting of alder
"Michael Bell" wrote in message . uk... Following advice on the ng, stuck twigs of alder into the ground in the hope that they would sprout. They haven't, well, not yet. Following advice of this ng, I bought a "Hydropod Propagator" from Greenhouse Sensation. The cuttings grew, and then died. They never produced any roots. But this device seems to be aimed at green stems rather than hardwood cuttings. So what should I try now? The buds now have 2 -3 leaves, not fully open. A "Mist propagator such as I knew in my youth seems to be what's wanted; an electrically heated bed of compost and sand, with a spray controlled by an "electronic leaf" seems to be what's wanted. Any recommendations? And what about lighting levels and other those details which seem to be too small mention, but which make all the difference? Michael Bell -- Although I know it is your hope and dream to get alders with big seed to make food from, maybe it's now time to say, maybe, that it's not possible. I hate to say it, but I'm not going to encourage you any more just to be kind because that what I was doing. |
#3
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
"Christina Websell" wrote: "Michael Bell" wrote in message . uk... Following advice on the ng, stuck twigs of alder into the ground in the hope that they would sprout. They haven't, well, not yet. Following advice of this ng, I bought a "Hydropod Propagator" from Greenhouse Sensation. The cuttings grew, and then died. They never produced any roots. But this device seems to be aimed at green stems rather than hardwood cuttings. So what should I try now? The buds now have 2 -3 leaves, not fully open. A "Mist propagator such as I knew in my youth seems to be what's wanted; an electrically heated bed of compost and sand, with a spray controlled by an "electronic leaf" seems to be what's wanted. Any recommendations? And what about lighting levels and other those details which seem to be too small mention, but which make all the difference? Michael Bell -- Although I know it is your hope and dream to get alders with big seed to make food from, maybe it's now time to say, maybe, that it's not possible. I hate to say it, but I'm not going to encourage you any more just to be kind because that what I was doing. I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Michael Bell -- |
#4
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Taking cutting of alder
On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote:
I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E -- Gardening in Lower Normandy |
#5
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
Emery Davis wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E Thank you very much. It's good to see that I am not too late for this. At least it identifies the rooting powder so that I can get the same. In my local garden shop I looked at one product and its label, claimed to be wonderful, also claiming to be "all natural materials, no artificial chemicals". In other words Homeopathy! Thank you for this. Michael Bell -- |
#6
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Taking cutting of alder
On 26/05/2013 08:47, Emery Davis wrote:
On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E In the past I used IBA bought as chemical in minute quantities, it had to be dissolved in methyl alcohol then diluted to strength with water, it was a job that required chemical scales which I had access to at a local university. It should be remembered that the alcohol is a poison and can be absorbed through the skin.. I thought you were going to graft your chosen cultivators. |
#7
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
David Hill wrote: On 26/05/2013 08:47, Emery Davis wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E In the past I used IBA bought as chemical in minute quantities, it had to be dissolved in methyl alcohol then diluted to strength with water, it was a job that required chemical scales which I had access to at a local university. It should be remembered that the alcohol is a poison and can be absorbed through the skin.. The reference above quotes preparations which sound like commercially available preparations as "rooting hormone" etc, so I'll buy it in these forms. I thought you were going to graft your chosen cultivators. I'm doing both. If I find a seed I like on a "wild" tree, I have no idea what its other parent was. Probably a tree close upwind of where I found the seed of interest, but which way was the wind blowing that day? It's a guess. If I put pollination bags on trees of interest, tidy-minded people pull off not just the bag, but the whole branch. I just want to keep hold of my good finds; I put a lot of effort into finding them. Michael Bell -- |
#8
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Taking cutting of alder
On 26/05/2013 09:24, Michael Bell wrote:
Thank you very much. It's good to see that I am not too late for this. At least it identifies the rooting powder so that I can get the same. In my local garden shop I looked at one product and its label, claimed to be wonderful, also claiming to be "all natural materials, no artificial chemicals". In other words Homeopathy! "all natural materials, no artifical chemicals" does not necessarily equate to homeopathy. It might mean that it contains plant hormones found in nature rather than similar chemicals not found in nature. It might further mean that the plant hormones are extracted from plants, rather than synthesised. -- Stewart Robert Hinsley |
#9
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
Emery Davis wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E I am buying this book from Amazon. Rather than photocopies from library books, it is better to have the book in your hand. £25. Cheap! And so it should be, Amazon pay too little tax! Michael Bell -- |
#10
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Taking cutting of alder
On Wed, 29 May 2013 22:17:52 +0100, Michael Bell wrote:
I am buying this book from Amazon. Rather than photocopies from library books, it is better to have the book in your hand. £25. Cheap! And so it should be, Amazon pay too little tax! Do bare in mind that only a small section deals with Alnus. Still, an excellent reference. For my part, I find Amazon an excellent business, their customer service is first rate and as a long time client I've had several minor difficulties (in the vast majority of trouble free purchases) that have always been dealt with in an entirely satisfactory manner. Reference books are often expensive, but I suppose there's not that much demand. Good luck, -E -- Gardening in Lower Normandy |
#11
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Taking cutting of alder
On Wed, 29 May 2013 23:58:45 +0200, Martin wrote:
I have the impression that the VAT paid goes to Luxembourg. Am I right? I doubt it, but their headquarters is there. I have a friend who works for them in the states, he's just gone there for a 2 year stint. Why would UK VAT be sent abroad? -- Gardening in Lower Normandy |
#12
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Taking cutting of alder
On Thu, 30 May 2013 18:08:12 +0200, Martin wrote:
On 30 May 2013 13:55:56 GMT, Emery Davis wrote: On Wed, 29 May 2013 23:58:45 +0200, Martin wrote: I have the impression that the VAT paid goes to Luxembourg. Am I right? I doubt it, but their headquarters is there. I have a friend who works for them in the states, he's just gone there for a 2 year stint. Why would UK VAT be sent abroad? Payments are paid to a Luxembourg account. Symantec have a similar iffy financial set up. If I pay for a Symantec licence in NL, not only is the VAT paid in Ireland, but I am charged the Irish rate of VAT. I get around this by buying US licences from Amazon.co.uk One mystery is that Amazon sells UK licenses and US licences for the same products, I wonder why anybody buys the UK licences. I guess they go by Amazon EU. Still I won't tell you what I think of your giving your money to Symantec... Until fairly recently Amazon customers were paying no VAT because products were shipped from the Channel Islands Not me, I just looked and I paid VAT as far back as 2001. Delivered to a UK address, too. -- Gardening in Lower Normandy |
#13
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Taking cutting of alder
On Fri, 31 May 2013 00:11:58 +0200, Martin wrote:
On 30 May 2013 16:37:25 GMT, Emery Davis wrote: [] Until fairly recently Amazon customers were paying no VAT because products were shipped from the Channel Islands Not me, I just looked and I paid VAT as far back as 2001. Delivered to a UK address, too. http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology...amazon-forces- publishers-pay-vat-ebook Refers to ebooks, not all products. http://www.xlab.co.uk/weblog/538 Refers to occasional specials offered VAT free, not all products. All my Amazon purchases are paid via a UK bank account and delivered to a UK address. And you've never paid any VAT, on any products? Or perhaps you missed a "sometimes" in the first sentence. BTW, pls try and snip, it really makes life easier for the rest of us, TIA. -E -- Gardening in Lower Normandy |
#14
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Taking cutting of alder
"Martin" wrote in message ... On Mon, 27 May 2013 16:35:24 +0100, Stewart Robert Hinsley wrote: On 26/05/2013 09:24, Michael Bell wrote: Thank you very much. It's good to see that I am not too late for this. At least it identifies the rooting powder so that I can get the same. In my local garden shop I looked at one product and its label, claimed to be wonderful, also claiming to be "all natural materials, no artificial chemicals". In other words Homeopathy! "all natural materials, no artifical chemicals" does not necessarily equate to homeopathy. Homeopathy is pure water with a memory. It might mean that it contains plant hormones found in nature rather than similar chemicals not found in nature. It might further mean that the plant hormones are extracted from plants, rather than synthesised. It might mean snake oil. -- Martin in Zuid Holland I do so wish that Michael will not be encouraged too much in his search for alders that will feed the planet "if I can find one with big seeds" Or maybe I am totally wrong and that's the way to go. What I won't do is patronise him. I do not agree with his idea that an alder tree even with big seeds can be useful for feeding humans. |
#15
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
"Christina Websell" wrote: "Martin" wrote in message ... On Mon, 27 May 2013 16:35:24 +0100, Stewart Robert Hinsley wrote: On 26/05/2013 09:24, Michael Bell wrote: Thank you very much. It's good to see that I am not too late for this. At least it identifies the rooting powder so that I can get the same. In my local garden shop I looked at one product and its label, claimed to be wonderful, also claiming to be "all natural materials, no artificial chemicals". In other words Homeopathy! "all natural materials, no artifical chemicals" does not necessarily equate to homeopathy. Homeopathy is pure water with a memory. It might mean that it contains plant hormones found in nature rather than similar chemicals not found in nature. It might further mean that the plant hormones are extracted from plants, rather than synthesised. It might mean snake oil. -- Martin in Zuid Holland I do so wish that Michael will not be encouraged too much in his search for alders that will feed the planet "if I can find one with big seeds" I have found alder seeds which are close to the size of rice grains. I am now looking for bigger. It will be a starch belly-filler like wheat, potatoes or rice. Or maybe I am totally wrong and that's the way to go. This country has been unable to feed itself since the repeal of the Corn Laws in 1846. 40% of this country's land is "upland", unable to grow cereals. People help me because they have the knowledge and want to give it to somebody who needs it. What possible harm do you think I might do? If it doesn't work out (and it is a difficult project) then there is no outcome, but if it does work out, what harm? "Treason never does prosper, why what's the reason. If treason does prosper, none dare call it treason." Nobody backs a lost cause. Michael Bell -- |
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