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#31
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Taking cutting of alder
On 08/07/2013 22:02, kay wrote:
'Jeff Layman[_2_ Wrote: ;987131'] I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Besides which, his post re rooting powder was at 8.14 and Charlie's reply on wounding wasn't posted until 8.32. The post I replied to was sent 08/07/2013 08:14 Charlies posting was sent 07/07/2013 08:23 A day after Charlkies post so no excuse for not acknowledging Charlies reply to his question. |
#32
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Taking cutting of alder
In article ,
David Hill wrote: On 08/07/2013 22:02, kay wrote: 'Jeff Layman[_2_ Wrote: ;987131'] I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Besides which, his post re rooting powder was at 8.14 and Charlie's reply on wounding wasn't posted until 8.32. The post I replied to was sent 08/07/2013 08:14 Charlies posting was sent 07/07/2013 08:23 A day after Charlkies post so no excuse for not acknowledging Charlies reply to his question. You don't know how Usenet works. Each server will get them in a different order, and there are often delays of days. There are also problems with posts not appearing, and old posts reappearing, but they are different. Even when all goes well, delays of a few days are normal. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#33
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
Chris Hogg wrote: On Sat, 06 Jul 2013 05:46:29 GMT, Michael Bell wrote: In message Michael Bell wrote: In message David Hill wrote: On 26/05/2013 08:47, Emery Davis wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E I've now got this book and a mist propagator and "Strike" (Bayer), which I suppose is the European standard rooting powder, and a mist propagator, and I am ready to go, but what exactly does "wound" mean? Might it mean a single scratch down one side of the stem, or simply the stem cut at a shallow angle, so it has a lot of exposed surface? Michael Bell You do realise that sod's law will have it that just as you've solved the problem of feeding the world with alder seed, along will come another pathogen to go with Dutch elm disease, sudden oak death, ash dieback etc., that will wipe out the entire alder population! I'm well aware of it. But no crop is immune from the risk, wheat, rice, banana.... What seems to give wheat and rice some kind of safety is that they are so widespread that every possible new pathogen has been given a chance to get out into the wider world, and either hasn't done so, or a counter-measure has been found. To spread our risks must be worthwhile. Michael Bell -- |
#34
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Taking cutting of alder
In message
Chris Hogg wrote: On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:51:27 +0100, David Hill wrote: On 08/07/2013 18:58, Jeff Layman wrote: On 08/07/2013 14:09, David Hill wrote: It means removing a narrow sliver down just one side of the cutting, remove the outer layer of bark but not going right through, its not an exact science and some experimentation is usually required to find what works best, same for mist units the settings that work best vary and also change during the year. One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch Try doing some other easy subjects as well as your Alders, that way you will know if the mist unit settings are ok but the timing for the Alder cuttings needs adjusting, or if the easy stuff fails the settings are wrong! My mist propagotion unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem. I have the settings on maximum wetness, and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder. I wait to see what happens! Michael Bell Do you actually bother reading the replies? you say "Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant" Look at the first 2 lines of this post. What don't you understand? I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Had the OP acknowledged Charlies reply, it would have been one thing but he posted a day after he had done the cuttings, so he doesn't seem that bothered about getting advice, remember that this has been going on now for more than 2 years. Some months ago I posted a link for him to some helpful YouTube videos on grafting. He doesn't seem to have learnt much from them. The solution seems to be along another line, to provide electric heating, a 2 Kohm resistor fed by 24 volts and wrapped with 3 turns of bubblewrap raises the temperature to 10 °C above ambient and then callus grows. Full details will be published on this ng when perfected. Michael Bell -- |
#35
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Taking cutting of alder
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#36
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Taking cutting of alder
On 08/07/2013 22:51, David Hill wrote:
On 08/07/2013 18:58, Jeff Layman wrote: On 08/07/2013 14:09, David Hill wrote: It means removing a narrow sliver down just one side of the cutting, remove the outer layer of bark but not going right through, its not an exact science and some experimentation is usually required to find what works best, same for mist units the settings that work best vary and also change during the year. One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch Try doing some other easy subjects as well as your Alders, that way you will know if the mist unit settings are ok but the timing for the Alder cuttings needs adjusting, or if the easy stuff fails the settings are wrong! My mist propagotion unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem. I have the settings on maximum wetness, and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder. I wait to see what happens! Michael Bell Do you actually bother reading the replies? you say "Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant" Look at the first 2 lines of this post. What don't you understand? I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Had the OP acknowledged Charlies reply, it would have been one thing but he posted a day after he had done the cuttings, so he doesn't seem that bothered about getting advice, remember that this has been going on now for more than 2 years. Whether or not he takes the advice he gets is not the point of the criticism you made in your first post. You berated him for not reading the replies. It is /you/ who is not reading the replies. Now you are criticising him again, again incorrectly: "Had the OP acknowledged Charlie's reply...". Charlie noted (as well as his comment on what wounding meant): "One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch". The OP replied "My mist propagation unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem". So he had read Charlie's reply and noted it. He lacked the advice on wounding /before/ Charlie's reply, that's why he had already dipped the unwounded cuttings into rooting powder, as he had done that before Charlie's reply. What do you find so hard to understand about that? -- Jeff |
#37
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Taking cutting of alder
"Chris Hogg" wrote in message ... On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:51:27 +0100, David Hill wrote: On 08/07/2013 18:58, Jeff Layman wrote: On 08/07/2013 14:09, David Hill wrote: It means removing a narrow sliver down just one side of the cutting, remove the outer layer of bark but not going right through, its not an exact science and some experimentation is usually required to find what works best, same for mist units the settings that work best vary and also change during the year. One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch Try doing some other easy subjects as well as your Alders, that way you will know if the mist unit settings are ok but the timing for the Alder cuttings needs adjusting, or if the easy stuff fails the settings are wrong! My mist propagotion unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem. I have the settings on maximum wetness, and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder. I wait to see what happens! Michael Bell Do you actually bother reading the replies? you say "Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant" Look at the first 2 lines of this post. What don't you understand? I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Had the OP acknowledged Charlies reply, it would have been one thing but he posted a day after he had done the cuttings, so he doesn't seem that bothered about getting advice, remember that this has been going on now for more than 2 years. Some months ago I posted a link for him to some helpful YouTube videos on grafting. He doesn't seem to have learnt much from them. -- Although it's nice to have an idea to feed the world from alder seeds, it's not going to happen for Michael (or anyone else) Even if he spends the rest of his life at it. ed to salt gales |
#38
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Taking cutting of alder
Christina Websell wrote:
Although it's nice to have an idea to feed the world from alder seeds, it's not going to happen for Michael (or anyone else) Even if he spends the rest of his life at it. I think the rest of his life is devoted to persuading HS2 to run double-deck vehicles and swerve to the route towards the north east. So they're not all hair brained schemes then ;-) Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Plant amazing Acers. |
#39
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Taking cutting of alder
"Michael Bell" wrote in message . uk... In message Chris Hogg wrote: On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:51:27 +0100, David Hill wrote: On 08/07/2013 18:58, Jeff Layman wrote: On 08/07/2013 14:09, David Hill wrote: It means removing a narrow sliver down just one side of the cutting, remove the outer layer of bark but not going right through, its not an exact science and some experimentation is usually required to find what works best, same for mist units the settings that work best vary and also change during the year. One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch Try doing some other easy subjects as well as your Alders, that way you will know if the mist unit settings are ok but the timing for the Alder cuttings needs adjusting, or if the easy stuff fails the settings are wrong! My mist propagotion unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem. I have the settings on maximum wetness, and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder. I wait to see what happens! Michael Bell Do you actually bother reading the replies? you say "Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant" Look at the first 2 lines of this post. What don't you understand? I think you owe the OP an apology. He posted on Saturday (6th) asking what "wounded" meant. Charlie replied on Sunday. The OP replied early today with "...and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant, I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder". So he had already made his first cuttings on Friday, before he asked what "wounded" meant. Had the OP acknowledged Charlies reply, it would have been one thing but he posted a day after he had done the cuttings, so he doesn't seem that bothered about getting advice, remember that this has been going on now for more than 2 years. Some months ago I posted a link for him to some helpful YouTube videos on grafting. He doesn't seem to have learnt much from them. The solution seems to be along another line, to provide electric heating, a 2 Kohm resistor fed by 24 volts and wrapped with 3 turns of bubblewrap raises the temperature to 10 °C above ambient and then callus grows. Full details will be published on this ng when perfected. Michael Bell -- Michael, pleeasse give up the idea that that you can breed an alder seed to feed the world. I know you want it so much but it's not possible. It's beginning to hurt my heart if you continue. |
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