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#1
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Insulating pot from the ground.
Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to
insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. |
#2
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Insulating pot from the ground.
"jim west" wrote in
: Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. Does it need repotting? I would keep it on the slabs(because they radiate heat) and put a fleece around the pot and plant. I don't know if bubble wrap would be the choice. Baz |
#3
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 28/11/2012 10:16, jim west wrote:
Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. AFAIK the ground and slabs will tend to be colder than the air during winter and warmer in summer. I would stand the pot on strips of something (tiles?) to allow circulation of air under it |
#4
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:35:18 PM UTC, stuart noble wrote:
On 28/11/2012 10:16, jim west wrote: Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. AFAIK the ground and slabs will tend to be colder than the air during winter and warmer in summer. I would stand the pot on strips of something (tiles?) to allow circulation of air under it When outdoors gets down to freezing at night, the ground is warmer than the air. So fof frost protection leave it in contact with the ground. NT |
#5
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:12:03 +0000, Sacha wrote:
Put bubble wrap round the pot but NOT round the plant. It can makes things 'sweat' and then can stick to leaves or stems. Use horticultural fleece draped over canes round and over the plant. Few plants like to be wet at their roots all through a cold winter night, so minimum watering and sharp drainage (lift the pot onto some bricks) is a general rule of thumb. Interesting. We used horticultural fleece covers last year for the first time to protect some Alstroemeria and standard bays and this year we have also put them over a couple of standard Solanum rantonettii. This is probably a bit OTT as we rarely get any significant frosts but I have not thought of raising the pots, a mix of terracotta and fibreglass. We tend to incorporate good drainage when planting containers, horticultural grit mixed with the JI and a layer of crocks or large stones at the bottom. Is it still a sensible precaution to raise the pots? Also we have a five year old acer in a 50 cms cube terracotta planter which, in previous years, we have,covered with bubble wrap (just the planter) as it is in a relatively exposed location. Do we need to carry on mollycoddling it or is it likely to be sufficiently acclimatised by now to survive one of our average winters without being wrapped up? -- rbel |
#6
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 28/11/2012 17:59, rbel wrote:
On Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:12:03 +0000, wrote: Put bubble wrap round the pot but NOT round the plant. It can makes things 'sweat' and then can stick to leaves or stems. Use horticultural fleece draped over canes round and over the plant. Few plants like to be wet at their roots all through a cold winter night, so minimum watering and sharp drainage (lift the pot onto some bricks) is a general rule of thumb. Interesting. We used horticultural fleece covers last year for the first time to protect some Alstroemeria and standard bays and this year we have also put them over a couple of standard Solanum rantonettii. This is probably a bit OTT as we rarely get any significant frosts but I have not thought of raising the pots, a mix of terracotta and fibreglass. We tend to incorporate good drainage when planting containers, horticultural grit mixed with the JI and a layer of crocks or large stones at the bottom. Is it still a sensible precaution to raise the pots? I also improve drainage as I plant, but I still prefer to keep my pots raised off paving and concrete areas. In persistent or heavy rain, water collects on our patio, so I consider drainage essential. RG is in the process of levelling and paving our patio (after *30* years of my moaning!), to allow better run-off, but I may still allow for free drainage during winter rains. Also we have a five year old acer in a 50 cms cube terracotta planter which, in previous years, we have,covered with bubble wrap (just the planter) as it is in a relatively exposed location. Do we need to carry on mollycoddling it or is it likely to be sufficiently acclimatised by now to survive one of our average winters without being wrapped up? -- rbel If your Acer is in a terracotta pot, you may still have to mollycoddle the pot if you don't want to lose it. The Acer may very well be a little hardier now, but I would still worry about this year's growth since we didn't have much sun to ripen the wood. If the tree is not hugely precious and/or you don't mind trimming off the dead twiggy ends (I have to do this in most springs, anyway), you may get away without extra protection. However, the fact that Acers are lower-storey woodland trees which need some shelter, I am slightly concerned that your tree is in a "relatively exposed" location. Another thought is that your tree may be grafted. It ought to be a solid graft by now, but I have known frosts and high winds to damage the union between crown and rootstock. You may wish to take this into consideration if the site is exposed. It took five years to get the tree to its present condition. It will only to five minutes to save or wreck its appearance. Somehow I think you will use that five mins wisely. Good luck. -- Spider from high ground in SE London gardening on clay |
#7
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 11/29/2012 06:19 PM, Spider wrote:
Also we have a five year old acer in a 50 cms cube terracotta planter which, in previous years, we have,covered with bubble wrap (just the planter) as it is in a relatively exposed location. Do we need to carry on mollycoddling it or is it likely to be sufficiently acclimatised by now to survive one of our average winters without being wrapped up? -- rbel If your Acer is in a terracotta pot, you may still have to mollycoddle the pot if you don't want to lose it. The Acer may very well be a little hardier now, but I would still worry about this year's growth since we didn't have much sun to ripen the wood. If the tree is not hugely precious and/or you don't mind trimming off the dead twiggy ends (I have to do this in most springs, anyway), you may get away without extra protection. However, the fact that Acers are lower-storey woodland trees which need some shelter, I am slightly concerned that your tree is in a "relatively exposed" location. Another thought is that your tree may be grafted. It ought to be a solid graft by now, but I have known frosts and high winds to damage the union between crown and rootstock. You may wish to take this into consideration if the site is exposed. It took five years to get the tree to its present condition. It will only to five minutes to save or wreck its appearance. Somehow I think you will use that five mins wisely. Good luck. To this very good advice I will add that if you're covering the Acer with bubble wrap, and not just the pot, you're likely damaging it for the reason Sacha mentioned. It's important to have free airflow around the stems or bark problems are very likely. Most Acers are reasonably tough, although it does depend on the cultivar, so if it's had 5 years to get used to its "relatively exposed" situation it will probably be OK. |
#8
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Thu, 29 Nov 2012 18:32:34 +0100, Emery Davis
wrote: On 11/29/2012 06:19 PM, Spider wrote: If your Acer is in a terracotta pot, you may still have to mollycoddle the pot if you don't want to lose it. The Acer may very well be a little hardier now, but I would still worry about this year's growth since we didn't have much sun to ripen the wood. If the tree is not hugely precious and/or you don't mind trimming off the dead twiggy ends (I have to do this in most springs, anyway), you may get away without extra protection. However, the fact that Acers are lower-storey woodland trees which need some shelter, I am slightly concerned that your tree is in a "relatively exposed" location. Another thought is that your tree may be grafted. It ought to be a solid graft by now, but I have known frosts and high winds to damage the union between crown and rootstock. You may wish to take this into consideration if the site is exposed. It took five years to get the tree to its present condition. It will only to five minutes to save or wreck its appearance. Somehow I think you will use that five mins wisely. Good luck. To this very good advice I will add that if you're covering the Acer with bubble wrap, and not just the pot, you're likely damaging it for the reason Sacha mentioned. It's important to have free airflow around the stems or bark problems are very likely. Most Acers are reasonably tough, although it does depend on the cultivar, so if it's had 5 years to get used to its "relatively exposed" situation it will probably be OK. Many thanks Spider and Emery. The Acer is a Sango Kaku (therefore probably somewhat tender) and is not grafted. In the past we have only covered the container with bubble wrap (not the tree) as it is in a fairly exposed position. I would like to locate it somewhere more sheltered but it is sited so that it is a focal point on the frontage. Being less than a kilometre from the sea in south Devon we rarely get any significant frosts but as we are atop the highest ridge of hills in the area so we do get some interesting gales. I think that we will wrap the container again this year - I must think of something that looks a bit better than bubblewrap! -- rbel |
#9
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Insulating pot from the ground.
wrote in message ... On Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:35:18 PM UTC, stuart noble wrote: On 28/11/2012 10:16, jim west wrote: Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. AFAIK the ground and slabs will tend to be colder than the air during winter and warmer in summer. I would stand the pot on strips of something (tiles?) to allow circulation of air under it When outdoors gets down to freezing at night, the ground is warmer than the air. So fof frost protection leave it in contact with the ground. NT -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks to all. Its the freezing weather that i'm most worried about. People are advise to bury themselves in snow at night, so i'm guessing you are right that the ground is indeed warmer than the air when its very cold, which means keeping close to the patio slabs and the house. Also i'm thinking that heat can rise out of fleece and that its main purpose is to deflect the wind. So it seems a possibility to use bubble wrap to wrap the pot and plant, but leave some opening at the top to avoid trapping moisture? |
#10
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 30/11/2012 15:56, rbel wrote:
On Thu, 29 Nov 2012 18:32:34 +0100, Emery Davis wrote: On 11/29/2012 06:19 PM, Spider wrote: If your Acer is in a terracotta pot, you may still have to mollycoddle the pot if you don't want to lose it. The Acer may very well be a little hardier now, but I would still worry about this year's growth since we didn't have much sun to ripen the wood. If the tree is not hugely precious and/or you don't mind trimming off the dead twiggy ends (I have to do this in most springs, anyway), you may get away without extra protection. However, the fact that Acers are lower-storey woodland trees which need some shelter, I am slightly concerned that your tree is in a "relatively exposed" location. Another thought is that your tree may be grafted. It ought to be a solid graft by now, but I have known frosts and high winds to damage the union between crown and rootstock. You may wish to take this into consideration if the site is exposed. It took five years to get the tree to its present condition. It will only to five minutes to save or wreck its appearance. Somehow I think you will use that five mins wisely. Good luck. To this very good advice I will add that if you're covering the Acer with bubble wrap, and not just the pot, you're likely damaging it for the reason Sacha mentioned. It's important to have free airflow around the stems or bark problems are very likely. Most Acers are reasonably tough, although it does depend on the cultivar, so if it's had 5 years to get used to its "relatively exposed" situation it will probably be OK. Many thanks Spider and Emery. The Acer is a Sango Kaku (therefore probably somewhat tender) and is not grafted. In the past we have only covered the container with bubble wrap (not the tree) as it is in a fairly exposed position. I would like to locate it somewhere more sheltered but it is sited so that it is a focal point on the frontage. Being less than a kilometre from the sea in south Devon we rarely get any significant frosts but as we are atop the highest ridge of hills in the area so we do get some interesting gales. I think that we will wrap the container again this year - I must think of something that looks a bit better than bubblewrap! Bubblewrap is fine, but why not use a coir mat (or similar) to disguise it. It will look fairly smart and add extra insulation. -- Spider from high ground in SE London gardening on clay |
#11
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 11/30/2012 04:56 PM, rbel wrote:
The Acer is a Sango Kaku (therefore probably somewhat tender) and is not grafted. Sango Kaku is particularly susceptible to moisture related bark problems, but other than that it's not particularly tender. The main issue with cold will be dieback of small branches that don't ripen sufficiently in our dreary climate... but where you are it won't have to worry about the cold. The wind is another issue, Sango Kaku does have wind burn problems. Are you sure it's not grafted? There is a Dutch nursery selling rooted cuttings now, but there weren't many around 5 years ago. You may have gotten one of the early ones. They are murder to get to strike, I used to see rates quoted around 1%! |
#12
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On 30/11/2012 16:14, jim west wrote:
wrote in message ... On Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:35:18 PM UTC, stuart noble wrote: On 28/11/2012 10:16, jim west wrote: Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. Bearing in mind the ground soil (and maybe these slabs? )are sometimes warmer than the air temperature, should i *insulate* the pot from the patio slabs when i wrap in bubble wrap; or keep the pot placed next to the paving slabs, and just place the bubble wrap over plant and pot. AFAIK the ground and slabs will tend to be colder than the air during winter and warmer in summer. I would stand the pot on strips of something (tiles?) to allow circulation of air under it When outdoors gets down to freezing at night, the ground is warmer than the air. So fof frost protection leave it in contact with the ground. NT -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks to all. Its the freezing weather that i'm most worried about. People are advise to bury themselves in snow at night, so i'm guessing you are right that the ground is indeed warmer than the air when its very cold, which means keeping close to the patio slabs and the house. Also i'm thinking that heat can rise out of fleece and that its main purpose is to deflect the wind. So it seems a possibility to use bubble wrap to wrap the pot and plant, but leave some opening at the top to avoid trapping moisture? If you have any old shade netting then several layers of that make a goos insulation from the cold |
#13
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Fri, 30 Nov 2012 16:50:23 +0000, Spider wrote:
Many thanks Spider and Emery. The Acer is a Sango Kaku (therefore probably somewhat tender) and is not grafted. In the past we have only covered the container with bubble wrap (not the tree) as it is in a fairly exposed position. I would like to locate it somewhere more sheltered but it is sited so that it is a focal point on the frontage. Being less than a kilometre from the sea in south Devon we rarely get any significant frosts but as we are atop the highest ridge of hills in the area so we do get some interesting gales. I think that we will wrap the container again this year - I must think of something that looks a bit better than bubblewrap! Bubblewrap is fine, but why not use a coir mat (or similar) to disguise it. It will look fairly smart and add extra insulation. Good idea, however I have just been reminded that we have some dull green fleece which may suit. -- rbel |
#14
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Fri, 30 Nov 2012 17:53:24 +0100, Emery Davis
wrote: On 11/30/2012 04:56 PM, rbel wrote: The Acer is a Sango Kaku (therefore probably somewhat tender) and is not grafted. Sango Kaku is particularly susceptible to moisture related bark problems, but other than that it's not particularly tender. The main issue with cold will be dieback of small branches that don't ripen sufficiently in our dreary climate... but where you are it won't have to worry about the cold. The wind is another issue, Sango Kaku does have wind burn problems. Agreed , there is dieback of some of the growing tips each year and leaf scorch which I am sure is due to the wind. Are you sure it's not grafted? There is a Dutch nursery selling rooted cuttings now, but there weren't many around 5 years ago. You may have gotten one of the early ones. They are murder to get to strike, I used to see rates quoted around 1%! AFAICR it is not grafted. It is multi-branched at soil level with no obvious sign of grafting. It is a bit cold and dark at the moment to check! -- rbel |
#15
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Insulating pot from the ground.
On Friday, November 30, 2012 4:14:14 PM UTC, jim west wrote:
wrote in message ... On Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:35:18 PM UTC, stuart noble wrote: On 28/11/2012 10:16, jim west wrote: Had a plant that nearly died from the frost and cold last year, so wish to insulate from the cold and its to be kept on a small patio outside, but adjacent to the house. The patio consists of paving slabs (placed on a hardcore of broken bricks base) about nine inches above the soil level. I intend wrapping bubble wrap around the plant (a bamboo) and the pot. |
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