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#16
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Janet Tweedy wrote in news:00qLR1AOy9QPFwS2
@lancedal.demon.co.uk: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! To answer your question JT, I would go for an electric one and not petrol. You can find them at DIY stores, that will fill your need. Always remember that you cannot cut logs safely on your own because the operator needs 2 hands on the saw. You can upgrade to petrol/diesal when you feel ok with it. Just don't try to do it on your own. Baz |
#17
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harry wrote in news:314e7fca-07ae-42b1-ada6-
: They are a deadly bit of kit, so easy to have a serious accident. Correct. Baz |
#18
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![]() "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. Bill |
#19
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![]() wrote in message ... In article , Another John wrote: You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. With all due respect: rubbish! Using a bowsaw utilises different muscles for a start. Sigh. Even if you didn't need the same muscles to control a chainsaw SAFELY, it is EXTREMELY rare to have a few arm muscles very weak and the rest quite strong. What I said is correct, unfortunately :-( But the main point is _time_ (as well as muscle power): ... That is a completely separate matter. .....and the maxim should be "let the saw do the work" - bow saw that is. Bill Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#20
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On Feb 22, 12:13*pm, Baz wrote:
Janet Tweedy wrote in news:00qLR1AOy9QPFwS2 @lancedal.demon.co.uk: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! To answer your question JT, I would go for an electric one and not petrol.. You can find them at DIY stores, that will fill your need. Always remember that you cannot cut logs safely on your own because the operator needs 2 hands on the saw. You can upgrade to petrol/diesal when you feel ok with it. Just don't try to do it on your own. Baz I wouls say try a Good hand saw first, I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. I'd lash out around £15.00 for one of their smaller bow saws (Some good offers on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...71baf7o4 os_b before buying a chain saw. Sandvik were always the Profesional saw. David @ the wet end of Swansea Bay. |
#21
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![]() "harry" wrote in message ... On Feb 21, 6:03 pm, Janet Tweedy wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy An electric chainsaw is lighter than petrol and a lot less trouble. You can get quite a small one. However it needs maintenance every few hours,chain sharpened and retensioned etc & you really need some training/advice/demonstration. They are a deadly bit of kit, so easy to have a serious accident. ......and as you say, one needs to be taught how to sharpen the chain teeth properly. Bill |
#22
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In article ,
Dave Hill wrote: I wouls say try a Good hand saw first, I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. Yes, but that's the blades you are talking about, and they will fit almost all bowsaws. I agree about them, incidentally. I'd lash out around =A315.00 for one of their smaller bow saws (Some good offers on Amazon I wouldn't. I would get the largest you are comfortable handling, as the effort goes down disproportionately with length. I use a 30", and would buy a 36" if I had much sawing to do. My experience of 24" saws is that they are twice as tiring to use as a 30" on anything above 6" diameter. Bull Grey's posting is the point - the effort comes in changing direction (and, worse, bumping into the end). You get a lot more cut per movement with a longer saw. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#23
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On 21/02/2012 18:03, Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! An electric chainsaw would be the better bet for what you want. Although, as others have said, chainsaws are hazardous tools at best and require a fair bit of maintenance - but less so with an electric one. I use both types quite a lot, and I can tell you that using any type of chainsaw for a spell is fairly tiring too. So, unless you have a large amount of logs to saw, a good (and sharp) bow saw has many advantages. |
#25
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In article , Moonraker
writes He then sawed them by hand and split them with chisels and a sledge hammer. He said it was great, as the wood provided heat twice, once in preparation and second in burning them I've got a grenade and a Swedish maule which works well on rounds but if I don't chop and move this lot soon the grass will be growing and turning yellow!! -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
#26
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In article
, Another John writes I bought a Bosch electric chainsaw about 5 years ago (I've had three new saw-chains). It's saved me man-day's of work, and is a joy to use -- it's in the top 5 of my Top Ten Tools. Oh sounds good, which model? -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
#27
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In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote: You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. Oh I can saw well enough but currently i have three 4ft high piles of very large logs in the garden from an oak, a mulberry an apple and a silver Birch and the thought of sawing by hand, umpteen logs is a bit daunting timewise, I need to cut them to about 12 inches long. It looks soooo much easier slicing through them with an saw. Too thick for my stihl hedgecutter though. Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). And no plausible hedgecutter will even approach that! Once something gets above that, it's worth paying someone to do it, even if you have a chainsaw, as it needs more than ordinary skills. If most of those branches are 6-9", I would guess 3 days of 4 hours each (with breaks to do other things) for a decent bowsaw, but probably still 3 days and over half the time for an inexperienced chainsaw user. Remember that, if you get even slightly tired, a chainsaw changes from dangerous to lethal. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#28
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In article , writes
But the main point is _time_ (as well as muscle power): ... That is a completely separate matter. I take your point Nick, but it is the sheer amount of time rather than not being able to physically saw the stuff. Got a large bow saw and whatever you call the ones with the thin blade that you have to squash the metal arms together to fit a new blade but sawing for the best part of three hours and finding the pile not much smaller is a bit off putting! Mind you I did see someone make an excellent hedge last week putting in four staves (2 forward 2 back)and then laying the straighter branches between the staves. Might try that to deter the deer! The mulberry offcuts would be excellent for that. The hazel i intend to burn. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
#29
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In article , writes
Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). No, 12 inches LONG Nick! Not diameter ![]() diameter of 12 inches? I can split them easy enough if I wanted to at that size! I sued to get rounds from the local council from the park dept and used a grenade and a Swedish maule. My log fire can take up to 15 inches long logs -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
#30
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In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote: Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). No, 12 inches LONG Nick! Not diameter ![]() diameter of 12 inches? I can split them easy enough if I wanted to at that size! I sued to get rounds from the local council from the park dept and used a grenade and a Swedish maule. What I meant was that it becomes infeasible to use a non-specialist aw for anything of above 12" diameter, and it is definitely harder above 9". That applies to both bowsaws and chainsaws, though the effects of increased difficulty are different. I take your point about the length of time involved - I had to guess at how wide and packed those piles were and may have guessed wrong. But I can assure you that it is NOT as much faster to use a chainsaw than it appears, if you are inexperienced or weakish (as I am), because you dare not get even slightly tired when using a chainsaw. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
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