Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
This year we grew dwarf runner beans in a container with enough
success to encourage trying again next year. I know crop rotation is important with beans, but the container is perfect for the size of crop and cane arrangement. So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? Also, should I churn the remains of the bean plants back under the ex-bean, brassica-next dirt (to put some of the stuff that beans suck out back in), or just pull the bean plants out and put them in the general compost? Thanks, Adam |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 31/10/2011 12:34, Adam Funk wrote:
This year we grew dwarf runner beans in a container with enough success to encourage trying again next year. I know crop rotation is important with beans, but the container is perfect for the size of crop and cane arrangement. So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? Also, should I churn the remains of the bean plants back under the ex-bean, brassica-next dirt (to put some of the stuff that beans suck out back in), or just pull the bean plants out and put them in the general compost? Thanks, Adam The beans (any legume, actually) will have produced nitrogen-fixing nodules on their roots, and this is very good for brassicas, so you could certainly do that. However, I once found masses of bean root aphids on my runner bean roots, so make sure there's nothing nasty lingering before you bury the bean roots. This, of course, goes for any used compost or crop pest. Otherwise you can go ahead. Bear in mind, though, that the brassicas will need a fairly heavy soil mix so that they are not ripped out of the soil by windage on their (hopefully) large leaves. You could, however, put your ex-bean plants on the compost heap if you wish. -- Spider from high ground in SE London gardening on clay |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
Adam Funk wrote:
So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? .... can you not just plant brassicas in the bean one and beans in the brassica one, rather than all that soil moving around? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 2011-10-31, wrote:
Adam Funk wrote: So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? ... can you not just plant brassicas in the bean one and beans in the brassica one, rather than all that soil moving around? That would be my first choice, except that the bean container is ideal for growing beans. ;-) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 2011-10-31, Spider wrote:
The beans (any legume, actually) will have produced nitrogen-fixing nodules on their roots, and this is very good for brassicas, so you could certainly do that. However, I once found masses of bean root aphids on my runner bean roots, so make sure there's nothing nasty lingering before you bury the bean roots. This, of course, goes for any used compost or crop pest. Otherwise you can go ahead. Bear in mind, though, that the brassicas will need a fairly heavy soil mix so that they are not ripped out of the soil by windage on their (hopefully) large leaves. You could, however, put your ex-bean plants on the compost heap if you wish. Thanks for the info. (Most of our containers are sheltered from the wind by a fence, which seemed to work well this year.) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 07:33:19 +0000, Adam Funk
wrote: On 2011-10-31, wrote: Adam Funk wrote: So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? ... can you not just plant brassicas in the bean one and beans in the brassica one, rather than all that soil moving around? That would be my first choice, except that the bean container is ideal for growing beans. ;-) Hi Adam. OT: Although Australian is my native tongue ("Our land is dirt by sea"), I'm uncomfortable at seeing soil called "dirt". What you suggest seems reasonable, as long as you feed the soil up and watch out for pests and diseases - and, as already advised, stiffen up the stuff intended for brassicas. As a matter of great interest, how did your container-grown beans and brassicas do? And how big are the containers? -- Mike. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
"Adam Funk" wrote in message ... This year we grew dwarf runner beans in a container with enough success to encourage trying again next year. I know crop rotation is important with beans, but the container is perfect for the size of crop and cane arrangement. So I'm thinking of dumping the dirt out of the bean container into another one for growing brassicas, and dumping the dirt used for something else into the bean container. (I'll mix compost in too.) Is this sensible, or am I missing something? Also, should I churn the remains of the bean plants back under the ex-bean, brassica-next dirt (to put some of the stuff that beans suck out back in), or just pull the bean plants out and put them in the general compost? For containers I would normally renew the compost each year - much easier to do than when working directly in the ground. You can add nutrients, clean out the containers, and generally avoid any problems with infections and weeds left over from the previous crop. Contents of the containers to go into a compost heap, perhaps, for future use in your containers once roots and stuff have had time to compost down. Cheers Dave R -- No plan survives contact with the enemy. [Not even bunny] Helmuth von Moltke the Elder (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 2011-11-03, Mike Lyle wrote:
Hi Adam. OT: Although Australian is my native tongue ("Our land is dirt by sea"), I'm uncomfortable at seeing soil called "dirt". Why, because "dirt" sounds "dirty"? "Soil" sounds, um, "soiled"! What you suggest seems reasonable, as long as you feed the soil up and watch out for pests and diseases - and, as already advised, stiffen up the stuff intended for brassicas. As a matter of great interest, how did your container-grown beans and brassicas do? And how big are the containers? Well, I didn't actually grow any brassicas this year, but I might next year. The beans did well for the late start: I planted them; the slugs ate them; I planted them again and put more anti-slug agents down; so they were a bit late in the season. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:37:06 +0000, Adam Funk
wrote: On 2011-11-03, Mike Lyle wrote: Hi Adam. OT: Although Australian is my native tongue ("Our land is dirt by sea"), I'm uncomfortable at seeing soil called "dirt". Why, because "dirt" sounds "dirty"? "Soil" sounds, um, "soiled"! At this rate, the urglers will kick our bottoms back to a.u.e.! As it happens, I find it impossible to use "soiled" to mean "dirty"... Not that "dirt" sounds so much "dirty" as "inferior" or "valueless". What you suggest seems reasonable, as long as you feed the soil up and watch out for pests and diseases - and, as already advised, stiffen up the stuff intended for brassicas. As a matter of great interest, how did your container-grown beans and brassicas do? And how big are the containers? Well, I didn't actually grow any brassicas this year, but I might next year. The beans did well for the late start: I planted them; the slugs ate them; I planted them again and put more anti-slug agents down; so they were a bit late in the season. I lost all mine this year, among the sweet-pea wigwams. I was interested in the size of the containers, as it occurred to me that beans would represent a heavy watering commitment. -- Mike. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"soil" vs "dirt"
On 2011-11-04, Mike Lyle wrote:
On Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:37:06 +0000, Adam Funk wrote: On 2011-11-03, Mike Lyle wrote: [Background: I asked about crop rotation of the "dirt" in garden containers.] Hi Adam. OT: Although Australian is my native tongue ("Our land is dirt by sea"), I'm uncomfortable at seeing soil called "dirt". Why, because "dirt" sounds "dirty"? "Soil" sounds, um, "soiled"! At this rate, the urglers will kick our bottoms back to a.u.e.! As it happens, I find it impossible to use "soiled" to mean "dirty"... Not that "dirt" sounds so much "dirty" as "inferior" or "valueless". [crosspost to AUE with FU set to AUE] Dear AUErs, what do you think? |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 2011-11-04, Mike Lyle wrote:
On Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:37:06 +0000, Adam Funk wrote: On 2011-11-03, Mike Lyle wrote: Hi Adam. OT: Although Australian is my native tongue ("Our land is dirt by sea"), I'm uncomfortable at seeing soil called "dirt". Why, because "dirt" sounds "dirty"? "Soil" sounds, um, "soiled"! At this rate, the urglers will kick our bottoms back to a.u.e.! As it happens, I find it impossible to use "soiled" to mean "dirty"... Not that "dirt" sounds so much "dirty" as "inferior" or "valueless". I'm moving that over to AUE. What you suggest seems reasonable, as long as you feed the soil up and watch out for pests and diseases - and, as already advised, stiffen up the stuff intended for brassicas. As a matter of great interest, how did your container-grown beans and brassicas do? And how big are the containers? Well, I didn't actually grow any brassicas this year, but I might next year. The beans did well for the late start: I planted them; the slugs ate them; I planted them again and put more anti-slug agents down; so they were a bit late in the season. I lost all mine this year, among the sweet-pea wigwams. I was interested in the size of the containers, as it occurred to me that beans would represent a heavy watering commitment. I finally remembered to measure it: 14" inside diameter at the top, 14" tall, and probably 9" inside diameter at the bottom; ceramic, glazed on the outside; ISTR one drain hole in the centre, but I can't see it at the moment. We put four long bamboo canes in the ground around it and wired them together near the tops. Planting: 2 seeds in each of 7 holes (hexagon's corners and centre). 2nd round of planting: same but with more Growing Success (eco-friendly) anti-slug granules. (I also used Nemaslug on the whole garden.) |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
crop/dirt rotation, bean plant remains
On 2011-11-04, David WE Roberts wrote:
For containers I would normally renew the compost each year - much easier to do than when working directly in the ground. You can add nutrients, clean out the containers, and generally avoid any problems with infections and weeds left over from the previous crop. Contents of the containers to go into a compost heap, perhaps, for future use in your containers once roots and stuff have had time to compost down. Yes, I suppose one of the benefits of growing in containers ought to be not having to worry about rotation. I'll do it that way. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Will an Andean spudfield rotation crop replace potato nematicides? | Permaculture | |||
Crop rotation advice please | United Kingdom | |||
crop rotation | Permaculture | |||
Crop Rotation | sci.agriculture | |||
crop rotation | Permaculture |