Hi there,
do these fungus only atack roses or other plants as well? Or they are different fungus alltogether? Can they be treated he same way?
Some advise,please.
Thank you.
Dina

dina wrote:
Hi there,
do these fungus only atack roses or other plants as well? Or they are
different fungus alltogether? Can they be treated he same way?
Some advise,please.
Thank you.
Dina




Hi Dina,

At least some leaf black spot is caused by the Entosporium fungus. Which
attacks roses, apples, pears, pyracantha, photinia and vitis notably.

An effective treatment is myclobutanil, also spray Bordeaux mixture
in fall and spring.

HTH

-E

"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...
dina wrote:
Hi there,
do these fungus only atack roses or other plants as well? Or they are
different fungus alltogether? Can they be treated he same way?
Some advise,please.
Thank you.
Dina




Hi Dina,

At least some leaf black spot is caused by the Entosporium fungus. Which
attacks roses, apples, pears, pyracantha, photinia and vitis notably.

An effective treatment is myclobutanil, also spray Bordeaux mixture
in fall and spring.

HTH

-E

I concur. There are many other plant types that suffer,though, many with
their own specific fungi. I can't say I know the name of them all, but I see
black spotting on Anemones, Hebes, Hellebores, Aquilegia, Penstemon and
others. Rust is another common fungal problem, which affects roses,
hypericum et al. Unsurprisingly, it has rust-coloured pustules, so is
fairly easy to identify, at least in the early stages - later, it can become
blackened.

I am still trialling the acid feed trick with rust and some forms of
blackspot. I can't say more than that I'm very hopeful. By all means,
follow Emery's advice for treatment. It is a good idea, though, to change
your chosen fungicide periodically so that the problem pathogen does not
become hardened to it, and thus survive. Also practice good garden hygiene,
by clearing up fallen leaves. These will carry fungal spores which will
reinfect your plant through wind dispersal or rain/water splash. With a
serious infesation, it may be worth mulching the ground, so the spores can't
reach the plant again. Similarly, if you spray a wall-trained plant, spray
the wall thoroughly as well.

Spider

Hi,
thank you for your advise.
I receantly read something which has confirmed what I suspected about Black spots. They like ph close to neutral and thats why your acid feed is working as well as combination of water and skimed milk or bicarbonated soda sprays. They change pH which black spots and mildew don't like.
I will deffinitly try acid feed as well. I don't like chemicals and prefere organic gardening if possible.

Dina

dina wrote:
'Spider[_2_ Wrote:
;843710']"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...-
dina wrote:-
Hi there,
do these fungus only atack roses or other plants as well? Or they are
different fungus alltogether? Can they be treated he same way?
Some advise,please.
Thank you.
Dina



-
Hi Dina,

At least some leaf black spot is caused by the Entosporium fungus.
Which
attacks roses, apples, pears, pyracantha, photinia and vitis notably.

An effective treatment is myclobutanil, also spray Bordeaux mixture
in fall and spring.

HTH

-E-

I concur. There are many other plant types that suffer,though, many
with
their own specific fungi. I can't say I know the name of them all, but
I see
black spotting on Anemones, Hebes, Hellebores, Aquilegia, Penstemon and

others. Rust is another common fungal problem, which affects roses,
hypericum et al. Unsurprisingly, it has rust-coloured pustules, so is

fairly easy to identify, at least in the early stages - later, it can
become
blackened.

I am still trialling the acid feed trick with rust and some forms of
blackspot. I can't say more than that I'm very hopeful. By all means,

follow Emery's advice for treatment. It is a good idea, though, to
change
your chosen fungicide periodically so that the problem pathogen does
not
become hardened to it, and thus survive. Also practice good garden
hygiene,
by clearing up fallen leaves. These will carry fungal spores which
will
reinfect your plant through wind dispersal or rain/water splash. With
a
serious infesation, it may be worth mulching the ground, so the spores
can't
reach the plant again. Similarly, if you spray a wall-trained plant,
spray
the wall thoroughly as well.

Spider

Hi,
thank you for your advise.
I receantly read something which has confirmed what I suspected about
Black spots. They like ph close to neutral and thats why your acid feed
is working as well as combination of water and skimed milk or
bicarbonated soda sprays. They change pH which black spots and mildew
don't like.
I will deffinitly try acid feed as well. I don't like chemicals and
prefere organic gardening if possible.


Dina, do note that Spider said "some forms of blackspot..." My soil is
quite acidic (5 everywhere, closer to 4.5 some places) and I suffer
from scads of the stuff. So I wonder about your statement.

Re Bordeaux Mixture, isn't it OK for organic gardening?

-E

Hi Emery,
I am sorry for asking but I am the beginer in gardening so don't know what Bordeaux Mixture is and where you can buy it?
I read about black spots on roses that they like ph neutral or closer to neutral but you are probably right .Maybe only some of them like ph neutral.
There are a lot of different kind of fungus which like different things .I was just hoping they all like ph neutral.
Thank you for your reply.
Dina

On Mon, 11 May 2009 08:58:03 +0200, Emery Davis
wrote:

dina wrote:
'Spider[_2_ Wrote:
;843710']"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...-
dina wrote:-
Hi there,
do these fungus only atack roses or other plants as well? Or they are
different fungus alltogether? Can they be treated he same way?
Some advise,please.
Thank you.
Dina



-
Hi Dina,

At least some leaf black spot is caused by the Entosporium fungus.
Which
attacks roses, apples, pears, pyracantha, photinia and vitis notably.

An effective treatment is myclobutanil, also spray Bordeaux mixture
in fall and spring.

HTH

-E-

I concur. There are many other plant types that suffer,though, many
with
their own specific fungi. I can't say I know the name of them all, but
I see
black spotting on Anemones, Hebes, Hellebores, Aquilegia, Penstemon and

others. Rust is another common fungal problem, which affects roses,
hypericum et al. Unsurprisingly, it has rust-coloured pustules, so is

fairly easy to identify, at least in the early stages - later, it can
become
blackened.

I am still trialling the acid feed trick with rust and some forms of
blackspot. I can't say more than that I'm very hopeful. By all means,

follow Emery's advice for treatment. It is a good idea, though, to
change
your chosen fungicide periodically so that the problem pathogen does
not
become hardened to it, and thus survive. Also practice good garden
hygiene,
by clearing up fallen leaves. These will carry fungal spores which
will
reinfect your plant through wind dispersal or rain/water splash. With
a
serious infesation, it may be worth mulching the ground, so the spores
can't
reach the plant again. Similarly, if you spray a wall-trained plant,
spray
the wall thoroughly as well.

Spider

Hi,
thank you for your advise.
I receantly read something which has confirmed what I suspected about
Black spots. They like ph close to neutral and thats why your acid feed
is working as well as combination of water and skimed milk or
bicarbonated soda sprays. They change pH which black spots and mildew
don't like.
I will deffinitly try acid feed as well. I don't like chemicals and
prefere organic gardening if possible.


Dina, do note that Spider said "some forms of blackspot..." My soil is
quite acidic (5 everywhere, closer to 4.5 some places) and I suffer
from scads of the stuff. So I wonder about your statement.


I think the acid treatment would probably work best as a spray
directly on the affected leaves.