My old apple tree’s got some rotten branches and a tree surgeon told
me it's probably only got a couple of years left. It's at the end of
my garden, on clay soil and gets partial sunshine. In replacing it I
want to minimise the hole in the tree-line at the end of my garden as
much as reasonably possible.

I’m looking at what replace it with (today’s fave is the Paperbark
Maple). The new one doesn’t have to go exactly where the old one was,
so I was thinking of planting it a metre or so away and then slowly
trimming the apple tree back over the next couple of years before
cutting it down completely. This would give the new one room to
expand, while minimising the loss of greenery in my garden .

I don’t know much about tree planting, so was wondering if this is a
sensible plan or would it stifle the new tree?

Michael

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My old apple tree’s got some rotten branches and a tree surgeon told
me it's probably only got a couple of years left. It's at the end of
my garden, on clay soil and gets partial sunshine. In replacing it I
want to minimise the hole in the tree-line at the end of my garden as
much as reasonably possible.

I’m looking at what replace it with (today’s fave is the Paperbark
Maple). The new one doesn’t have to go exactly where the old one was,
so I was thinking of planting it a metre or so away and then slowly
trimming the apple tree back over the next couple of years before
cutting it down completely. This would give the new one room to
expand, while minimising the loss of greenery in my garden .

I don’t know much about tree planting, so was wondering if this is a
sensible plan or would it stifle the new tree?

Unless the apple tree is diseased with something like canker, I'd trim
off the dead wood and see what happens - apple trees are notoriously
tenacious of life.

I know of several trees which have blown right over, and despite having
around a quarter of their roots left in the soil, were bearing good
crops two years later.

Just paint over the cut ends with a suitable wax. I use the wax that
cheeses are covered in - it's durable and pliable.

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

Rusty_Hinge writes

Unless the apple tree is diseased with something like canker, I'd trim
off the dead wood and see what happens - apple trees are notoriously
tenacious of life.

I know of several trees which have blown right over, and despite having
around a quarter of their roots left in the soil, were bearing good
crops two years later.

Just paint over the cut ends with a suitable wax. I use the wax that
cheeses are covered in - it's durable and pliable.

Agreed. Our elderly Bramley was blown over in the 1987 storm. We assumed
it was a goner, and it was blocking the whole width of our very small
garden, so we trimmed off all the branches. We never got around to
dealing with the now-horizontal trunk, and next spring it produced
masses of new shoots.
--
Kay

On 23/2/09 18:19, in article , "K"
wrote:

Rusty_Hinge writes

Unless the apple tree is diseased with something like canker, I'd trim
off the dead wood and see what happens - apple trees are notoriously
tenacious of life.

I know of several trees which have blown right over, and despite having
around a quarter of their roots left in the soil, were bearing good
crops two years later.

Just paint over the cut ends with a suitable wax. I use the wax that
cheeses are covered in - it's durable and pliable.

Agreed. Our elderly Bramley was blown over in the 1987 storm. We assumed
it was a goner, and it was blocking the whole width of our very small
garden, so we trimmed off all the branches. We never got around to
dealing with the now-horizontal trunk, and next spring it produced
masses of new shoots.


Apple trees can go on for a long, long time. Think of all those old cider
orchards etc. still around. I'm not convinced a few rotten branches mean
the tree is condemned and I'd get another opinion. I think Kay and Rusty
are right. If the worst comes to the worst, you could think of retaining
the stump of the tree and growing something like a rose or Clematis up it.

--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
Perennials & shrubs online

wrote:
My old apple tree’s got some rotten branches and a tree surgeon told
me it's probably only got a couple of years left. It's at the end of
my garden, on clay soil and gets partial sunshine. In replacing it I
want to minimise the hole in the tree-line at the end of my garden as
much as reasonably possible.

I’m looking at what replace it with (today’s fave is the Paperbark
Maple). The new one doesn’t have to go exactly where the old one was,
so I was thinking of planting it a metre or so away and then slowly
trimming the apple tree back over the next couple of years before
cutting it down completely. This would give the new one room to
expand, while minimising the loss of greenery in my garden .

I don’t know much about tree planting, so was wondering if this is a
sensible plan or would it stifle the new tree?


The paperbark maple (A. griseum) is a very easy tree, certainly one of
the easiest maples to grow. It will do fine even on very heavy soils,
but be unhappy in a bog.

You should be aware that it is a very slow grower, and large specimens
are quite expensive (although available in the trade.) The cost comes
because it is difficult to graft, and the seed germination rate is less
than 1%. (Much seed is non-viable also).

It will do better in full sun than partial shade, but the shade is OK too.

According to your plan any new tree will be competing with the well
established apple, which will give it a hard time establishing. (You'll
probably have to water). griseum has modest moisture needs compared to
most maples, but even still I'd take the old tree out completely before
planting.

If the position makes the bark a less significant feature, you may want
to consider A. triflorum. This species is closely related, has similar
foliage and fall colour is just as good, but it will be less dear for a
large specimen tree. (The bark is less interesting, being rather shaggy
instead of exfoliating.)

HTH

-E