Update: My greenhouse is now complete. It was definitely worth the extra time to level up and secure the base as it feels very solid. Thanks to all for the advice.

Pete - It's a Halls Supreme. My choice was heavily influenced by my wife who liked the curved roof panels. As it had to be situated in a fairly prominent position in our garden I wouldn't have been allowed anything she considered ugly!

Construction was simple enough, though a few of the instructions were a bit vague! Halls - if you're reading this some better quality photos would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got long arms!). There are a few leaks but I'm sure I can sort them over time with some silicone sealant.

Too bad its autumn, and I've got to wait for the next season to start using it - unless anyone has some good ideas about what to grow over the winter.

"Granity" wrote in message
...


LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid
to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix
concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can
only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my
breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down
methinks. :-(
--
Granity


I used "Barrowmix" (wet) and found it just fine.
As well as the base foundation - you could consider using it for a central
pathway.
More digging I am afraid !
Sounds like you could do with a little help from a friend or go mechanical
!!

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com

LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down methinks. :-(

Wickes have stuff called "slabcrete" for patio laying lay it dry wet it then lay the slabs I've used it before with success so probably use it fir this, and for the path inside using 600mm slabs.

Hopefully my son will appear to help if not then it will just take time.

In article , Granity
writes

LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid
to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix
concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can
only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my
breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down
methinks. :-(



We've just got a 8 x 14 Rhino greenhouse. Wonderful!! It came with 8
vents with automatic openers and two side louvres. Paid extra for blinds
on one side of the roof (greenhouse now turned to north south axis).
It's feels much, much bigger than the old one because of course the
sides are straight rather than the leaning ones of the cedar Alton.
I took the old Alton down, though it took a bit of huffing and puffing
and pure grit at one point to get the glass out as the thing was so
swaybacked it's a wonder it didn't fall down before I dismantled it!"

I won't put anything in it even low staging yet until i have dug out
wither side and put down weed suppressant matting and then shingle. Bit
tricky once the staging is in!.

Ended up trailing the pole with the electric wire inside, under the
greenhouse frame in a channel and so I'll have to have a think about the
way i am going to fix it to aboard inside.

It also came with guttering and hose pipe connections at each corner so
i can fix a huge tank to the short end .

It'll never look so good as it does now of course - all shiny and new

--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

tjr wrote:
would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've
had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got
long arms!).

Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a
Halls, and the back is going to be against a 6' fence.

Thanks.

"Ian Prideaux" wrote in message
...
tjr wrote:
would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've
had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got
long arms!).
Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a Halls,
and the back is going to be against a 6' fence.

Thanks.

If it is hard against a 6' fence, just as ours is, don't glaze, panel with
ply from the inside :-)

Mike

For "slabcrete" read slablayer, put it down dry, water it and lay the slabs.

You just need to plan ahead. I started with the back which was against the fence (about 6 inches away). From inside the frame it was possible to lift the glass through the centre and carefully move it into position. The clips can be inserted by reaching through from either side. I continued with the middle section. Here I was a bit harder to get the clips onto the far side but my arms are long enough to reach through (still inside the frame) and across the 2 feet wide panel. The final panels on the back could be reached from the outside. Next I glazed the side near the shed with a similar procedure. To glaze the roof the panels can be lifted through from inside and into position. I had a step ladder inside the frame so I could stand up an insert the clips from above.

I managed the whole job by myself, but if you have an extra pair of hands to help you it would be a lot easier, as they can hold the glass in place whilst you get the clips in.

The main drawback of this approach is that it will be very difficult to replace a broken pane. If one ever breaks at the back I'd have to remove other panels to get to the broken one. It's in a very sheltered position so the main risk will be if I break it from inside!

I was rang last Friday and told it would be delivered today (Tuesday) I asked what sort of time it was likely to be arriving, 0800 they said. At five to eight this morning a lorry barged it's way up the track removing the lower branches of a tree (that'll teach the guy to trim it he's been asked to often enough) .............................................Any one good at jigsaws? :-)

In article ,
says...

Hi All,

I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The
slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building
a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'm using a
metal base supplied with the greenhouse. With this amount of fall is
it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level
it up (if so using what?)? The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so
it won't have to content with very high winds.


I'd appreciate any advice.





It does not sound a lot but remember the glass will be right angled and
you will have the devils own job glazing it if you do not level it, but
there is no need to moveve the slabs just pack under the frame base till
level then use morter
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

[QUOTE
I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The
slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building
a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.


[/quote]

You were lucky. Having struggled for 2 days to remove the old G/H and put the base together for the 8x10 we laid it on the ground and got the spirit level out :-(

With the back left corner on the ground the front right is 7" high, the front left 5" high and the back right 2" high.

This leaves me with a serious problem, if I dig out the back by 7" it means the gravel (the area is membraned with 2" of gravel on top) will be above the bottom of the glass. If I compromise say dig out 3" and thin down the gravel it still leaves a step at the door of about 9" which is silly and impossible to get a wheel barrow inside easily ( the base unit is 5" high)

Seems like a lot of landscaping is needed to level the whole area. :-( :-(

Hello I found a useful page on a site on greenhouse bases and I figured you may find it a useful reference. You may have it sorted now but here you go :
http://www.gabrielash.com/base-calculator

good luck !