Hello
with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.

I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and other
advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green plant
material.

What opinions if any do you folks have.

TIA ..........................leslie



--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access

Leslie wrote
with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.

I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and other
advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green plant
material.

What opinions if any do you folks have.


http://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile...ato_blight.asp


--
Regards
Bob Hobden

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
| Leslie wrote
| with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.
|
| I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and other
| advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green plant
| material.
|
| What opinions if any do you folks have.
|
| http://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile...ato_blight.asp

That still promotes the old wife's tale that it isn't safe to
compost blighted plants - that is quite simply wrong. Blight in
the UK CURRENTLY overwinters only on living material (typically
potato tubers, and possibly native Solanum species).

The reason is that spores produced by a single strain do not
overwinter, and it needs a sort of sexual stage to produce ones
that do. Currently, this has not been demonstrated to occur in
the UK. In this, Wikipedia is more reliable than the RHS - though
I am basing my statement on academic papers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytophthora_infestans

Yes, it's safe to compost blighted plant material, provided that
you ensure that any potato tubers in it do not survive composting
and, to a lesser extent, the blight spores are not spread from the
material on the compost heap.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
| Leslie wrote
| with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.
|
| I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and
other
| advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green
plant
| material.
|
| What opinions if any do you folks have.
|
| http://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile...ato_blight.asp

That still promotes the old wife's tale that it isn't safe to
compost blighted plants - that is quite simply wrong. Blight in
the UK CURRENTLY overwinters only on living material (typically
potato tubers, and possibly native Solanum species).

The reason is that spores produced by a single strain do not
overwinter, and it needs a sort of sexual stage to produce ones
that do. Currently, this has not been demonstrated to occur in
the UK. In this, Wikipedia is more reliable than the RHS - though
I am basing my statement on academic papers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytophthora_infestans

Yes, it's safe to compost blighted plant material, provided that
you ensure that any potato tubers in it do not survive composting
and, to a lesser extent, the blight spores are not spread from the
material on the compost heap.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

That's twice we agree today!

"Nick Maclaren" wrote
"Bob Hobden" writes:
| Leslie wrote
| with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.
|
| I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and
other
| advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green
plant
| material.
|
| What opinions if any do you folks have.
|
| http://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile...ato_blight.asp

That still promotes the old wife's tale that it isn't safe to
compost blighted plants - that is quite simply wrong. Blight in
the UK CURRENTLY overwinters only on living material (typically
potato tubers, and possibly native Solanum species).

The reason is that spores produced by a single strain do not
overwinter, and it needs a sort of sexual stage to produce ones
that do. Currently, this has not been demonstrated to occur in
the UK. In this, Wikipedia is more reliable than the RHS - though
I am basing my statement on academic papers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytophthora_infestans

Yes, it's safe to compost blighted plant material, provided that
you ensure that any potato tubers in it do not survive composting
and, to a lesser extent, the blight spores are not spread from the
material on the compost heap.

I would not take the chance, it's simply not worth the risk composting any
diseased plant material.

--
Regards
Bob Hobden

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| Yes, it's safe to compost blighted plant material, provided that
| you ensure that any potato tubers in it do not survive composting
| and, to a lesser extent, the blight spores are not spread from the
| material on the compost heap.
|
| I would not take the chance, it's simply not worth the risk composting any
| diseased plant material.

As a statistician, that sort of thing makes me despair!

You bend over backwards to minimise a negligible risk, but I will bet
a guinea to a farthing that you completely ignore much more serious
ones.

For example, even just with composting, you should never compost
UNCOOKED plant material that has come from outside and might have even
been in contact with plant material. Yes, that does mean cooking any
paper bags or cardboard that you have bought vegetables in before
composting them :-)

And you shouldn't do any gardening in the same clothes that you have
handled external plant material, or without washing your hands.

As far as blight is concerned, you should search and destroy all
other plants of the Solanaceae in your garden, both in the winter
and frequently during spring. In fact, it would help to do it in an
area around your garden, though that is a trifle illegal :-)

Seriously. Those are all greater risks.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
(Nick Maclaren) writes:
|
| And you shouldn't do any gardening in the same clothes that you have
| handled external plant material, or without washing your hands.

On second thoughts, that one's a bit dubious.

Replace it by never importing any soil or compost (including around
the roots of plants) without sterilising it ....


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Hello again
I am glad of all the advice regarding this problem.

What happened here was my tomatoes " Legend and another supposedly virus
free Tomato" with my potatoes went down with blight and I removed the haulms
and put them in with my compost without thinking.

Mind now relieved thank you for your input.

........................Leslie



"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
(Nick Maclaren) writes:
|
| And you shouldn't do any gardening in the same clothes that you have
| handled external plant material, or without washing your hands.

On second thoughts, that one's a bit dubious.

Replace it by never importing any soil or compost (including around
the roots of plants) without sterilising it ....


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.



--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access

On 16/07/08 14:57, Therefore wrote:
Hello
with regards to tomato and potato blight foliage.

I have read that all foliage should be put into the dustbin and other
advice to put in compost heap as blight only over winters on green plant
material.

What opinions if any do you folks have.

TIA ..........................leslie


On my allotment, the experienced guys always leave the haulms to dry
off and then burn them. Or they bag them up, take them home and dispose
of them through the Council garden waste collection bins.

They never put them on the compost heap. They just think that it is not
worth taking any risks.

Ed

"Nick Maclaren" wrote
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| Yes, it's safe to compost blighted plant material, provided that
| you ensure that any potato tubers in it do not survive composting
| and, to a lesser extent, the blight spores are not spread from the
| material on the compost heap.
|
| I would not take the chance, it's simply not worth the risk composting
any
| diseased plant material.

As a statistician, that sort of thing makes me despair!

You bend over backwards to minimise a negligible risk, but I will bet
a guinea to a farthing that you completely ignore much more serious
ones.

For example, even just with composting, you should never compost
UNCOOKED plant material that has come from outside and might have even
been in contact with plant material. Yes, that does mean cooking any
paper bags or cardboard that you have bought vegetables in before
composting them :-)

And you shouldn't do any gardening in the same clothes that you have
handled external plant material, or without washing your hands.

As far as blight is concerned, you should search and destroy all
other plants of the Solanaceae in your garden, both in the winter
and frequently during spring. In fact, it would help to do it in an
area around your garden, though that is a trifle illegal :-)

Seriously. Those are all greater risks.


I appreciate that Nick, I know I am being illogical and unscientific but all
my life I've had experts tell me things only to do about-turns a few years
on, so in the case of diseased plant material where the possible long term
contamination of my soil is at stake I will always be cautious.

Besides which, knowing my luck, I'd get the mated strain that can
overwinter.
--
Regards
Bob Hobden

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| I appreciate that Nick, I know I am being illogical and unscientific but all
| my life I've had experts tell me things only to do about-turns a few years
| on, so in the case of diseased plant material where the possible long term
| contamination of my soil is at stake I will always be cautious.

But that's half the point! Blight ISN'T a soil-borne disease, let
alone a durable one - even if you get the overwintering strain, it
won't cause long-term contamination of the soil.

The same isn't true of spraing, which can be imported on contaminated
seed potatoes and probably in compost/soil. I have had to give up
maincrop potatoes because of it, and the only solutions are either
drench the whole garden to a depth of feet in truly evil chemicals
or not grow any potatoes (or all Solanacea?) for a decade :-(

And it's not true of half a dozen other diseases, either, which
can be imported in soil/compost or on seed potatoes.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote after
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| I appreciate that Nick, I know I am being illogical and unscientific
but all
| my life I've had experts tell me things only to do about-turns a few
years
| on, so in the case of diseased plant material where the possible long
term
| contamination of my soil is at stake I will always be cautious.

But that's half the point! Blight ISN'T a soil-borne disease, let
alone a durable one - even if you get the overwintering strain, it
won't cause long-term contamination of the soil.

The same isn't true of spraing, which can be imported on contaminated
seed potatoes and probably in compost/soil. I have had to give up
maincrop potatoes because of it, and the only solutions are either
drench the whole garden to a depth of feet in truly evil chemicals
or not grow any potatoes (or all Solanacea?) for a decade :-(

And it's not true of half a dozen other diseases, either, which
can be imported in soil/compost or on seed potatoes.

Have you tried any of the Spraing resistant varieties of potato?
I know they tend to be the common farming varieties and you like growing the
more obscure types but anything is worth a try, even those varieties will
taste a lot better grown yourself with TLC.
Caesar
Fianna
Hermes
Record
Rooster (early MC)
Slaney
These all come at at 8 out of 9 so should be quite resistant.
--
Regards
Bob Hobden

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| Have you tried any of the Spraing resistant varieties of potato?
| I know they tend to be the common farming varieties and you like growing the
| more obscure types but anything is worth a try, even those varieties will
| taste a lot better grown yourself with TLC.

No, because I looked at them and none of them looked like varieties
that we would buy from choice. You are quite right that they would
taste better home-grown, but not enough to be worth the hassle.

Currently I am growing what was supposed to be Belle de Fontenay
(but isn't, though it is a waxy, cream-fleshed early) and Red Duke
of York, which we eat early. It's really only the potatoes grown
for keeping that get it badly.

Thanks for the list - I will take another look and see if there
is one that we would want to grow, but I am not optimistic.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote

Currently I am growing what was supposed to be Belle de Fontenay
(but isn't, though it is a waxy, cream-fleshed early) and Red Duke
of York, which we eat early. It's really only the potatoes grown
for keeping that get it badly.


Perhaps it's BF15 (no name) which we have grown this year and quite like.
Certainly the yields are superb.

Thanks for the list - I will take another look and see if there
is one that we would want to grow, but I am not optimistic.

If I remember correctly I think I posted a similar list about spraing
resistant varieties on 21st Jan 2007. (just looked it up on Google)

--
Regards
Bob Hobden

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| Currently I am growing what was supposed to be Belle de Fontenay
| (but isn't, though it is a waxy, cream-fleshed early) and Red Duke
| of York, which we eat early. It's really only the potatoes grown
| for keeping that get it badly.
|
| Perhaps it's BF15 (no name) which we have grown this year and quite like.
| Certainly the yields are superb.

I don't think so. I have grown that before - this one has much
larger and much rounder tubers, with much less of a kidney shape.
And that was just the seed ....

| Thanks for the list - I will take another look and see if there
| is one that we would want to grow, but I am not optimistic.
|
| If I remember correctly I think I posted a similar list about spraing
| resistant varieties on 21st Jan 2007. (just looked it up on Google)

You did :-) I looked then.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.