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#1
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
From what I read in my motley collection of gardening books, now is
not the time to be cutting this plant back but can anyone tell me what I risk if I do so? I'd like to cut it back quite close to the wall since it's now billowing out well above plants beneath it that are consequently being starved of light. I gather that a radical pruning like this will mean waiting a couple of years for flowers but since this job will have to be done, I'd like to start it ASAP and wondered if I could take advantage of a head start with some summer growth. Most of the leafy growth (I've recently trimmed off the dying flower heads) is on stems that protrude about 18" to 2 feet from the wall, so my planned pruning will leave the wall with just the clipped stems showing. Could I do it now or in autumn or is winter the best? How close to the wall can/should I cut? thanks for any input.. |
#2
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
fumbler wrote in message ... From what I read in my motley collection of gardening books, now is not the time to be cutting this plant back but can anyone tell me what I risk if I do so? I'd like to cut it back quite close to the wall since it's now billowing out well above plants beneath it that are consequently being starved of light. I gather that a radical pruning like this will mean waiting a couple of years for flowers but since this job will have to be done, I'd like to start it ASAP and wondered if I could take advantage of a head start with some summer growth. Most of the leafy growth (I've recently trimmed off the dying flower heads) is on stems that protrude about 18" to 2 feet from the wall, so my planned pruning will leave the wall with just the clipped stems showing. Could I do it now or in autumn or is winter the best? How close to the wall can/should I cut? thanks for any input.. I would do it now, but it will of coarse come back as that's how it flowers. I must have a go at mine as the recent gales have ripped it off the wall and its hanging in an unsightly way! -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and Lapageria rosea |
#3
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 08:35:40 +0100, "Charlie Pridham"
wrote: I would do it now, but it will of coarse come back as that's how it flowers. I must have a go at mine as the recent gales have ripped it off the wall and its hanging in an unsightly way! Thanks for replying. So, it's ok to do this quite brutally, leaving just a brown skeleton with short stems? I'd like to cut back well behind the existing new buds in the hope that fresh buds will appear on the truncated stems. I don't know if that's a vain hope or not. (is there a technical or gardener's term for this growth phenomenon? It'll be obvious that I'm a newcomer to this but I've noticed that many plants are very fussy about where they're trimmed back to - lavenders for example, and I've got a ceanothus that looks as though it has no choice but to become leggy. OTOH a viburnum I've just posted about appears to be happy to be pruned anywhere and will always obligingly sprout new growth at whatever the point of the cut. Is this the case with the H.petiolaris?) |
#4
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
On Jul 10, 5:56 am, fumbler wrote:
From what I read in my motley collection of gardening books, now is not the time to be cutting this plant back but can anyone tell me what I risk if I do so? Not so many flowers (or none) next year. Most plants will tolerate being cut back after flowering, but you may well compromise next years display if you cut out too much of this years growth in one go. Mine has always been self stick to the wall - until gales a couple of weeks ripped it off and snapped a 6' chunk off the top. It now has a couple of rawlplugs and wires in the wall to climb up. I usually trim mine after flowering despite what the books say - if I didn't the path would be overgrown. I'd like to cut it back quite close to the wall since it's now billowing out well above plants beneath it that are consequently being starved of light. I gather that a radical pruning like this will mean waiting a couple of years for flowers but since this job will have to be done, I'd like to start it ASAP and wondered if I could take advantage of a head start with some summer growth. Most of the leafy growth (I've recently trimmed off the dying flower heads) is on stems that protrude about 18" to 2 feet from the wall, so my planned pruning will leave the wall with just the clipped stems showing. Could I do it now or in autumn or is winter the best? I would do some now and initially take out the worst offending stragglers and trying to leave as much new growth as possible whilst minimising how far out from the wall it sticks out. Mine encrouches onto a path so I have to trim it from time to time to keep the path useable. You can see the branch skeleton better in winter. How close to the wall can/should I cut? How big is the plant? An established one would be pretty difficult to kill no matter what you do, but a small plant denuded of all its new growth might well be seriously unhappy. I'd leave 10-12" of growth on everywhere and a bit more where there is room. It will look odd if clipped hard rectangular ike a hedge, Regards, Martin Brown |
#5
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 06:17:15 -0700, Martin Brown
wrote: On Jul 10, 5:56 am, fumbler wrote: From what I read in my motley collection of gardening books, now is not the time to be cutting this plant back but can anyone tell me what I risk if I do so? Not so many flowers (or none) next year. Most plants will tolerate being cut back after flowering, but you may well compromise next years display if you cut out too much of this years growth in one go. Mine has always been self stick to the wall - until gales a couple of weeks ripped it off and snapped a 6' chunk off the top. It now has a couple of rawlplugs and wires in the wall to climb up. I usually trim mine after flowering despite what the books say - if I didn't the path would be overgrown. I'd like to cut it back quite close to the wall since it's now billowing out well above plants beneath it that are consequently being starved of light. I gather that a radical pruning like this will mean waiting a couple of years for flowers but since this job will have to be done, I'd like to start it ASAP and wondered if I could take advantage of a head start with some summer growth. Most of the leafy growth (I've recently trimmed off the dying flower heads) is on stems that protrude about 18" to 2 feet from the wall, so my planned pruning will leave the wall with just the clipped stems showing. Could I do it now or in autumn or is winter the best? I would do some now and initially take out the worst offending stragglers and trying to leave as much new growth as possible whilst minimising how far out from the wall it sticks out. Mine encrouches onto a path so I have to trim it from time to time to keep the path useable. You can see the branch skeleton better in winter. How close to the wall can/should I cut? How big is the plant? An established one would be pretty difficult to kill no matter what you do, but a small plant denuded of all its new growth might well be seriously unhappy. I'd leave 10-12" of growth on everywhere and a bit more where there is room. It will look odd if clipped hard rectangular ike a hedge, Regards, Martin Brown Many thanks for your post. I took the plunge and an element of common sense took over. I've trimmed back the shoots with new leaves to an earlier knuckle just after a bud or a pair of buds leaving an average of at least 12" i'd say. There are quite a few stout branches which have grown out of the main structure, branches between 2 and 4 cms thick and with a trail of caterpillar-like 'stickers' expecting to find a wall. As they're growing outwards, they'll not find a wall of course. I've cut back one of these as an experiment - there are no obvious cutting points. I think this is quite a mature plant, the 'trunk' at the base, a twist of intertwinings, is about 8" in diameter but the whole deal has never been allowed to grow above the height of the 9 foot wall which is co-owned (the plant runs no more than 15' in length). There's something around chewing quite a few but no more than 10% of the leaves - I don't know if it's a pest that has met its own nemesis and can therefore be left? Also, most of the google hits talk about petiolaris as deciduous but I don't think this one lost its leaves last year, or the year before come to that. |
#6
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
On Jul 9, 11:56 pm, fumbler wrote:
From what I read in my motley collection of gardening books, now is not the time to be cutting this plant back but can anyone tell me what I risk if I do so? I'd like to cut it back quite close to the wall thanks for any input.. Since this plant blooms on laterals that extend outward, pruning close to the supporting wall will prevent flowering. Leave it alone. |
#7
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
fumbler wrote in message ... On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 06:17:15 -0700, Martin Brown wrote: Also, most of the google hits talk about petiolaris as deciduous but I don't think this one lost its leaves last year, or the year before come to that. If its evergreen its not petiolaris, there are several evergreen climbing Hydrangeas, seemannii, and serratifolia are the ones most frequently seen. they tend to form their flowers in large duck egg sized buds rather than just forming tiny replicas of the finished flowers. Doesn't really matter pruning after flowering seldom does any real harm. -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and Lapageria rosea |
#8
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Hydrangea petiolaris - advice please
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 20:52:07 +0100, "Charlie Pridham"
wrote: fumbler wrote in message .. . On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 06:17:15 -0700, Martin Brown wrote: Also, most of the google hits talk about petiolaris as deciduous but I don't think this one lost its leaves last year, or the year before come to that. If its evergreen its not petiolaris, there are several evergreen climbing Hydrangeas, seemannii, and serratifolia are the ones most frequently seen. they tend to form their flowers in large duck egg sized buds rather than just forming tiny replicas of the finished flowers. Doesn't really matter pruning after flowering seldom does any real harm. The flowering has been quite poor, dullish greeny white and so unstriking I didn't concentrate on the flower pattern, in passing it reminded me a bit of the form of the lacecap. But looking on google's images I see your two named varieties both have serrated leaves as does mine. Interesting - thanks for naming it for me! The plant came with the house and it's previous owner - a keen gardener - had listed it as petiolaris. Duh. |
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