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#1
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large pond dos and don'ts
From what I've been reading here, I have some ponds that seem to be a bit
larger than most here. I've got three on this property, one in the front, one in the back, and, you guessed it, one by the house in the middle. The front and back ponds are the biggest, maybe an acre and a half to two acres each. I'm guestimating from an aerial photograph, both ponds abut into an overgrown swampy area I haven't been able to penetrate. The middle pond is about 40-50 feet across, and from 3-5 feet deep, both depending on how much rain we have had recently. The middle pond is surrounded by brush and trees, but there are several places cut through the brush (and I'm bush hogging more) where you can get right down to the water. The middle pond has been used as a trash heap by the previous occupant. It's more like yard debris, branches and stuff, but I have seen an old chair and barbecue in there. There are frogs and snakes and stuff and I've even seen a big ole turtle in there so it can't be *that* nasty. I don't know if there are any fish. I do know there are fish in the back pond, I've seen them, lots and lots of those mosquito eating fish, probably lots of other kinds too, there is an old hand casting net back there. I'm gonna pull the trash out of the middle pond and try to rehabilitate it. It is also the only pond I have a prayer of getting power to. So are there any things I should or shouldn't be doing in getting the pond ready? I live in Florida near where I-75 and I-10 cross, so while it does freeze here, it only happens at night and only a few times a winter. Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
#2
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Courageous gave some good info. Invasive plants are bad in the south
and will take over in a single season, and most are vairtually impossible to get rid of without a lot of work. Been there done that, and never again........I am not finally parropts feather, water hyacinth and frog bite free as far as I can tell. Cat tails and some others are well under control and not a problem. I am located in south central Alabama so were not all that much different in zone and weather. Are these ponds dug or are they merely formed by naturally occuring depressions. I have a huge pond (natural depression) in my back area thats probably 2 1/2 to 3 acres and it stays full of water about 8 months out of the year, the rest of the year it is just a bog.......Your located around Swanney area by chance? Watch out of cotton mouths and other bad types as well. Aeration is highly suggested. If you do not aerate, you will get heavy algae blooms, and then all it takes is a few overcast cloudy days and the algae dies..........that night fish also die from oxygen depravation........and at times it can go on for days and days. Aeration will help with keeping algae down and your water well oxygenated, and reduce your risk of a fish kill greatly. I aerate my dug pond with a fountain and it took quite a few months of playing with it until I can now say it has good, if not great water in it, as compared to most southern natural or dug ponds......I actually have visibility of 4 to 6 feet, all due to keeping excessive nutrients out and providing lots of aeration. I use a submersible type pump to pull water from the bottom and spray it over the surface. I also dose with Baraclear P-80 which locks up phosphorous which algae needs to have to utilize nitrogen to make it grow. Having a shallow pond as such can have its draw backs, if relying on rainfall. My maina pond is over 21 feet deep and is a bit over 1 acre in size. If you can build up a berm around the majority of the pond y our wanting to estabish first, it would help with runoff and adding excessive nutrients, but it will also reduce your fill rate if your dependant on rain and runoff, but once full if it does not leak, it will be a plus not having all the runoff and excessive nutrients. Its gonna take you some time but the efforts are worth it. I used to have bass, bream and catfish in all my ponds, now my main pond has no bass, 3 albino channel catfish, of 24" or better in length, and a few bream, which are virtually impossible to get rid of, but I do have a heap of Koi and various typs fo Goldfish in it. The other ponds still have the assortments of bass, bream and cats and rarely if ever get much attention like the main pond, but they are healthy none the less, but lots of green water. Lots of luck and keep us posted on your progress......... On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 20:29:37 -0400, Galen Hekhuis wrote: ===From what I've been reading here, I have some ponds that seem to be a bit ===larger than most here. I've got three on this property, one in the front, ===one in the back, and, you guessed it, one by the house in the middle. The ===front and back ponds are the biggest, maybe an acre and a half to two acres ===each. I'm guestimating from an aerial photograph, both ponds abut into an ===overgrown swampy area I haven't been able to penetrate. The middle pond is ===about 40-50 feet across, and from 3-5 feet deep, both depending on how much ===rain we have had recently. The middle pond is surrounded by brush and ===trees, but there are several places cut through the brush (and I'm bush ===hogging more) where you can get right down to the water. The middle pond ===has been used as a trash heap by the previous occupant. It's more like ===yard debris, branches and stuff, but I have seen an old chair and barbecue ===in there. There are frogs and snakes and stuff and I've even seen a big ===ole turtle in there so it can't be *that* nasty. I don't know if there are ===any fish. I do know there are fish in the back pond, I've seen them, lots ===and lots of those mosquito eating fish, probably lots of other kinds too, ===there is an old hand casting net back there. I'm gonna pull the trash out ===of the middle pond and try to rehabilitate it. It is also the only pond I ===have a prayer of getting power to. So are there any things I should or ===shouldn't be doing in getting the pond ready? I live in Florida near ===where I-75 and I-10 cross, so while it does freeze here, it only happens at ===night and only a few times a winter. === === Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA === Illiterate? Write for FREE help ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
#3
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On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 18:18:07 -0700, Courageous
wrote: You haven't mentioned what you want to achieve. I haven't the foggiest what I can achieve. I just don't want to screw things up. Be that as it may, it's my suspicion that you're going to need to talk to an expert for a water feature of that size. Often, filtering with any formal techniques is nearly impossible, unless you have a rich man's budget. More natural techniques like appropriate planting are followed, as well as perhaps circulating the water somehow, by adding whatever you can afford in the way of low pressure high volume pumps (e.g., http://www.azponds.com, see the "Sequence" brand pump for a good example of pumps to move maximum amounts of water for minimum watts). Forget the idea of turning over your volume once hourly, that ain't gonna happen here. I imagine I'll get some sort of gas powered high volume pump to have available should I ever have to use the pond as a reservoir for fire fighting. I could power that virtually anywhere for a few hours. As for electrically driven stuff, what with the distance and all I'll bet I can't drive much over about 10 amps, total. I can probably supply that 24/7, the local grid permitting. While power is pretty dependable here, I don't think I'd plug in any life support systems... Typically with large natural water features, from the reading I've done, one of the very best things one can do is install a central fountain that draws from the deepest point in the pond and blows it straight up out of the water. This circulates the water at the bottom, which is ordinarily quite stratified and very low in oxygen. Far out. I think I can manage stuff like that. The other thing that I'd say here is take care with some of the standard water gardening plants (water lettuce, hyacinth, parrot feather), they are likely quite invasive in your area and if they get established in your pond, you'll have no end of headaches. Both the front pond and the back pond have what I think is duckweed. The front pond is almost covered by it now, the back pond (which gets a lot more shade) seems to have halted at only about 10% coverage. The front pond has a bunch of lily pads (the flowers are white with yellow centers, they are supposed to be real common around here, I think they are very pretty anyway) the back pond doesn't have any lily pads but it does have a bunch of yellow canna plants along the side. The middle pond doesn't seem to have any plants floating in it. Thanks for the ideas. Like I say, I don't want to hear down the road: "You should *never* have done that." I'm not real bright. I often have to depend on others to tell me not to do stupid things. Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
#5
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On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 19:35:49 -0700, Courageous
wrote: Both the front pond and the back pond have what I think is duckweed. Once you have your water into a healthy state (aerated, circulated, clear), you can add Koi and other fish that think duckweed is really nummy. Don't buy big koi, just a bunch of cheap fingerlings. If you get a grow out problem with main plants, you might consider looking into neutered grass carp from your local water authority or provider. pond has a bunch of lily pads (the flowers are white with yellow centers, they are supposed to be real common around here, I think they are very pretty anyway) the back pond doesn't have any lily pads but it does have a bunch of yellow canna plants along the side. The middle pond doesn't seem to have any plants floating in it. Once you have the various ponds all cleared out and in good shape (that middle one in particular), you should plant it. Water lillies in particular are very good choices. If they proliferate a bit, all the better. They provide shade to the water below, preventing algae from getting needed sunlight. As for that middle pond, remove the junk, but don't disturb the soil. In particular, remove metal junk. While your pond is large, and therefore diffuses contaminants quite well, many kinds of metals are actually toxic to fish... copper (including bronze and brass) in particular. Thanks for the ideas. Like I say, I don't want to hear down the road: "You should *never* have done that." I'm not real bright. I often have to depend on others to tell me not to do stupid things. Hah. It's the smart ones that always do the stupid things. C// Thanks for the comments again. Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
#6
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I like this book
EARTH PONDS SOURCEBOOK by Tim Matson kathy :-) www.blogfromthebog.com this week ~ Mosquitoes! Run For Your Life! Pond 101 page for new pond keepers ~ http://hometown.aol.com/ka30p/myhomepage/garden.html |
#7
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Ditto on what courageous wrote. Unless you go the big bucks route for a bank of large solar panels and batterys to have a power source for the solar pumps they do nor run long enough or are strong enough to do much good. Strictly solar powerd ones run only during daylight hours, and do little at night when aeration is a most vital part. Pardon my spelling "Swanney"........heck I new better but for the life of me could not get that name to spell right so I let it bump.......So since your in that area you just may find a gator someday in your pond as well. On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 22:01:02 -0700, Courageous wrote: === ===Do those floating solar powered fountains do any good? === ===No. One option is to get an airpump and put a pond-sized airstone at ===the bottom of the pond. It's not the air bubbles, but rather the ===induced air current, that cause the aeration. The surface of the ===pond is a big air-exchanger, and bringing the low oxygen water from ===the bottom of the pond to the top, where the air is, does the trick. === ===C// ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
#8
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On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 13:18:21 GMT, (~Roy~) wrote:
Ditto on what courageous wrote. Unless you go the big bucks route for a bank of large solar panels and batterys to have a power source for the solar pumps they do nor run long enough or are strong enough to do much good. Strictly solar powerd ones run only during daylight hours, and do little at night when aeration is a most vital part. Pardon my spelling "Swanney"........heck I new better but for the life of me could not get that name to spell right so I let it bump....... No sweat. Actually, Stephen C. Foster never even saw the Suwannee River, he was writing about the Pee Dee River in South Carolina, but Pee Dee didn't sound so good, hence another river was chosen for the song. So since your in that area you just may find a gator someday in your pond as well. I moved here from farther south in the state, down around Dunnellon, about 90 mi north of Tampa. Being a fla****er-type of kayaker, I have been rather close to several many gators down here. I've gotten to where we can at least get along together. Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
#9
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have a prayer of getting power to. So are there any things I should or shouldn't be doing in getting the pond ready? You haven't mentioned what you want to achieve. Be that as it may, it's my suspicion that you're going to need to talk to an expert for a water feature of that size. Often, filtering with any formal techniques is nearly impossible, unless you have a rich man's budget. More natural techniques like appropriate planting are followed, as well as perhaps circulating the water somehow, by adding whatever you can afford in the way of low pressure high volume pumps (e.g., http://www.azponds.com, see the "Sequence" brand pump for a good example of pumps to move maximum amounts of water for minimum watts). Forget the idea of turning over your volume once hourly, that ain't gonna happen here. Typically with large natural water features, from the reading I've done, one of the very best things one can do is install a central fountain that draws from the deepest point in the pond and blows it straight up out of the water. This circulates the water at the bottom, which is ordinarily quite stratified and very low in oxygen. The other thing that I'd say here is take care with some of the standard water gardening plants (water lettuce, hyacinth, parrot feather), they are likely quite invasive in your area and if they get established in your pond, you'll have no end of headaches. C// |
#10
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Both the front pond and the back pond have what I think is duckweed. Once you have your water into a healthy state (aerated, circulated, clear), you can add Koi and other fish that think duckweed is really nummy. Don't buy big koi, just a bunch of cheap fingerlings. If you get a grow out problem with main plants, you might consider looking into neutered grass carp from your local water authority or provider. pond has a bunch of lily pads (the flowers are white with yellow centers, they are supposed to be real common around here, I think they are very pretty anyway) the back pond doesn't have any lily pads but it does have a bunch of yellow canna plants along the side. The middle pond doesn't seem to have any plants floating in it. Once you have the various ponds all cleared out and in good shape (that middle one in particular), you should plant it. Water lillies in particular are very good choices. If they proliferate a bit, all the better. They provide shade to the water below, preventing algae from getting needed sunlight. As for that middle pond, remove the junk, but don't disturb the soil. In particular, remove metal junk. While your pond is large, and therefore diffuses contaminants quite well, many kinds of metals are actually toxic to fish... copper (including bronze and brass) in particular. Thanks for the ideas. Like I say, I don't want to hear down the road: "You should *never* have done that." I'm not real bright. I often have to depend on others to tell me not to do stupid things. Hah. It's the smart ones that always do the stupid things. C// |
#11
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Do those floating solar powered fountains do any good? No. One option is to get an airpump and put a pond-sized airstone at the bottom of the pond. It's not the air bubbles, but rather the induced air current, that cause the aeration. The surface of the pond is a big air-exchanger, and bringing the low oxygen water from the bottom of the pond to the top, where the air is, does the trick. C// |
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