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#1
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UV filter + material
Hi
I am a newbie here and I need some advice about filtration. I have a small pond approx 2m x 1.5m x 0.5m with an underwater pump and a small waterfall. It has no fish(I may want to add a few later) but some lillies and a couple of other oxygenating plants. Sounds pretty basic, I guess, but my water is all green - can't see a thing below the surface. After Googling for a while, I think I need a material filter(beads?) and a UV filter to kill the algea. The area around my pond is not suitable for underground filtration, so I need an in-pond underwater solution. So, can anybody recommend a combined material/uv underwater filter that I can buy in the UK? My pump has a 1"(25mm) inlet/outlet. Or, maybe there's a different solution? |
#2
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UV filter + material
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 13:46:38 +0100, blobby wrote:
Hi I am a newbie here and I need some advice about filtration. I have a small pond approx 2m x 1.5m x 0.5m with an underwater pump and a small waterfall. It has no fish(I may want to add a few later) but some lillies and a couple of other oxygenating plants. Sounds pretty basic, I guess, but my water is all green - can't see a thing below the surface. After Googling for a while, I think I need a material filter(beads?) and a UV filter to kill the algea. The area around my pond is not suitable for underground filtration, so I need an in-pond underwater solution. So, can anybody recommend a combined material/uv underwater filter that I can buy in the UK? My pump has a 1"(25mm) inlet/outlet. The only underwater solution I know if is combined with a pump: http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/cat...tain-pumps.asp You need to be able to pull it out for cleaning and for replacement of the UV bulb. You may just be swapping one problem for another though. Once the UV has killed off the water born algae light will be able to get in and you could get blanketweed. Or, maybe there's a different solution? More plants and time. The plants will out compete the algae in time especially since you have no fish to feed. How long has it been set up? It does take time for the plants to consume the nutrients and for the algae to die off. -- Regards - Rodney Pont The from address exists but is mostly dumped, please send any emails to the address below e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk |
#3
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Quote:
Thanks very much for replying. My pond is 18 months old, and I currently have the one Water Lily(now well established), one Water Hawthorn and some Canadian Pondweed. Do I need some more plants do you think? If yes, what do you recommend? Should I forget the filter business for a while and concentrate on a more natural approach? Thanks for your help in this, it is much appreciated. Regards Rick |
#4
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UV filter + material
On Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:39:19 +0100, blobby wrote:
Thanks very much for replying. My pond is 18 months old, and I currently have the one Water Lily(now well established), one Water Hawthorn and some Canadian Pondweed. Do I need some more plants do you think? If yes, what do you recommend? Should I forget the filter business for a while and concentrate on a more natural approach? Thanks for your help in this, it is much appreciated. It's very individual and really it's what you like. I like some of the grasses that have black bands but you have to put them in a the right depth. Is there room on the surface for another water lily? You are restricted in what you can get since your pond is fairly shallow. The depth on the water lilies ticket is the distance from the top of the compost to the surface and not the depth of the pond. It's the length of the stalks really and if you put a deep one in a shallow pond the leaves and flowers stretch a long way and don't look right to me. I would forget the filter side and add more plants. The more of the surface you cover the better from the point of view of clear water. I don't think anything much is going to happen at this end of the year but you can pop another illy in to help next year. In a plant only pond the lilly will need fertilizing but get a tab to stick in the compost so that it doesn't feed the algae. If you get green water next year I'd bung in some watercress from the supermarket (for instance). It will grow rapidly and remove the nutrients and cover the water. Don't let it get out of hand though, keep pulling it out and composting it and just throw a few shoots back in. Once you have enough plants established you won't need to do that any more. -- Regards - Rodney Pont The from address exists but is mostly dumped, please send any emails to the address below e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk |
#5
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Cheers Rodney. I will add more plants and see what happens next year. I would like to see some clear water, so I may not try to cover the whole surface. Maybe I'll try some grasses. Thanks again fro your help Rick |
#6
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UV filter + material
On Oct 15, 4:23*am, blobby wrote:
'Rodney Pont[_2_ Wrote: ;867078'] - It's very individual and really it's what you like. I like some of the grasses that have black bands but you have to put them in a the right depth. Is there room on the surface for another water lily? You are restricted in what you can get since your pond is fairly shallow. The depth on the water lilies ticket is the distance from the top of the compost to the surface and not the depth of the pond. It's the length of the stalks really and if you put a deep one in a shallow pond the leaves and flowers stretch a long way and don't look right to me. I would forget the filter side and add more plants. The more of the surface you cover the better from the point of view of clear water. I don't think anything much is going to happen at this end of the year but you can pop another illy in to help next year. In a plant only pond the lilly will need fertilizing but get a tab to stick in the compost so that it doesn't feed the algae. If you get green water next year I'd bung in some watercress from the supermarket (for instance). It will grow rapidly and remove the nutrients and cover the water. Don't let it get out of hand though, keep pulling it out and composting it and just throw a few shoots back in. Once you have enough plants established you won't need to do that any more.- Cheers Rodney. I will add more plants and see what happens next year. I would like to see some clear water, so I may not try to cover the whole surface. Maybe I'll try some grasses. Thanks again fro your help Rick -- blobby- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - If dust etc blows in the pond you will never get rid of any algae booms as the dust brubgs nutrient to fguel the algae. Get ahold of a Bio Force filter with built in UV, They kick butt and do a remarkable job of keeping a pond clean and algae free/ I gather your from the UK so you should not hgave a problem finding one there as thats where they come from. Its a pressurized canistewr filter with bio balls ands sponge donuts of various density. Can feed a water fall too if desired. I have one now over 6 years all trouble free and still the same UV bulb and its working in the hot humid sunny south of USA just fine. |
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