A stock solution of PP is extrememly handy to have around the pond
even if your not in need of a totla pond treatment. Its handy to
sterilize nets, buckets, tanks, etc as well as knock off bugs from
recently purchased plants priot to putting them in a pond. In other
words small doses of PP can be made really quick of varying strengths
from this stock solution.

The best stock solution is one that is easy to figure out
approropriate doseages. This would be a 2mg/L solution. This strength
is easy to recalculate to make stronger or weaker merely by adding
more or less drops to a given amount of water.
To one gall of distilled or RO or RODI water add 285 grams of PP. Its
best to use distilled or RO or RODI water as chlorine or other
chemicals or nutrients like phospates etc will start the PP to react
and thus use some of its strength as it oxidizes the comounds in the
water.

Any how add 285 grams of pp to one gal of distliled water and mix
well. If yu lack a gram scale a level teaspoon of PP weights approx
7.0 grams...do the math...Its easy.

Once this solution is mixed up it is dispensed at the rate of drops
per gal. 1 drop of this solution added to say a tank of 1 gal of
water is equal to 1ppm ratio With 2ppm being more of the norm or
typical dose, its easy to add 2 drops for every gal of water in any
given size container of water.......


To dose larger containers or systems its usefuill in that 20 drops
equal 1 mlm oir 1 cc so you can measure out more liquid solution
faster than using the drop method.....so its much easier to add 1ml of
stock solution to a 10 gal tank for a 2ppm dose than drop in all
those drops.



PP is fairly safe to handle but it will burn esposed skin and it also
will turn skin and clothes brown, so gloves and eye protection is
recomended

One thing to be aware of and that is never to add PP to Formalin in
any combination as it can be explosive, however yu can use PP to
oxidize residual formalin out of water without any problems. PP is a
good oxidizer and is good for dissenfecting external surfaces like
nets and buckets and QT tanks and even filter media if it was exposed
to sick fish etc. Of course beneficial bacteria etc wil be
erradicated, but so will any pathogens and DOC's.

I get the majority of my info ftp, The University of Florida or
Auburn University in Alabama. Both have extensive and wellknown fish
biology labs. I give no info that is based on my personal experiences.
I give info gained directly from scientific sources that are
approved. I uave used any source of info as well as the info contained
within and have achieved the desired results, so there really is no
second guessing if its right or not.

PS. If a PP treatment fails to achieve the desired results its usually
due to 1. incorrect or incomplete diagnosis of problem, 2. incorrect
calculatin of amount of PP needed to dothe job (do a demand test for
best results) or 3. excessive organic materials in the system that
results in rapid degradation of PP. This can usualay be prevented by
doing a demand test, which will put you closer to actua amount of PP
needed than using a 2ppm rate.

Regards!


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I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!