I give credit to "snooze" for this idea and it works great.

Use a mason jar as your enclosure.
Drill a hole in the centre of the metal top
where your wire will go through. Use a 20 Watt
halogen bulb and if you wish add some coloured filter at the
bottom of the jar (where the light will shine through).
Silicone both sides of where the wire goes through
the hole on the metal top and attach the wire to the bulb
by any means (I soldered mine).

Wait at least 24 hours for the
silicone to dry. Before sealing the jar add some pebble rocks for
weight so the jar sinks to the bottom. Seal the jar up with the top and
ring. You can line the inside of the jar with aluminum foil to give the
light more direction.

Note: Use a DC wall adapter for power with 1 - 2 Amps output.
ie: 12 volts DC with a 20 watt bulb

"CanadianPonder©" wrote in message
...
I give credit to "snooze" for this idea and it works great.

Use a mason jar as your enclosure.
Drill a hole in the centre of the metal top
where your wire will go through. Use a 20 Watt
halogen bulb and if you wish add some coloured filter at the
bottom of the jar (where the light will shine through).
Silicone both sides of where the wire goes through
the hole on the metal top and attach the wire to the bulb
by any means (I soldered mine).

Wait at least 24 hours for the
silicone to dry. Before sealing the jar add some pebble rocks for
weight so the jar sinks to the bottom. Seal the jar up with the top and
ring. You can line the inside of the jar with aluminum foil to give the
light more direction.

Note: Use a DC wall adapter for power with 1 - 2 Amps output.
ie: 12 volts DC with a 20 watt bulb

Where did you get your adapter at? I might take a crack at one of these.

You could also use spray glue on the jar inner (masking the bottom) so the
aluminum foil stays put.

For tinting the bottom manually, pick up some Future Floor wax (google it,
to find multiple brand sources worldwide), and mix it 50/50 with walmart
apple barrel paint in your choice of colors. paint that on the inside of the
jar, although it let to cure properly, you could probably paint it on the
bottom of the outside of the jar, since Future is literally liquid polymer.

(Now ya gotta figure out some sort of adjustable stand for your mason jar
lamp.)


--
Gareee©
(Gary Tabar Jr.)

"Gareee©" wrote in message
...
Note: Use a DC wall adapter for power with 1 - 2 Amps output.
ie: 12 volts DC with a 20 watt bulb


Sounds like he's talking about the DC wall adaptors you get to charge cell
phones, portable electronics, cordless phones etc. Just cut the end off,
usually a barrel tip.

On the adaptor it will say something like input: 120v ac, output 9v dc 500
mA. In this case you're looking for something that has an output of 12v dc
and 1000 mA, which will give you a slightly dimmer bulb, but a longer bulb
lifespan. An output if 12v dc with 2000 mA would give you a brighter bulb.

If you can't find one in that kitchen drawer, or your local electronics
surplus shop, or radio shack, then there's always mail order.

http://www.allelectronics.com/matrix...nsformers.html

Good luck

"CanadianPonder©" wrote in message
...
I give credit to "snooze" for this idea and it works great.


Thanks but I'm not that creative, I stole the idea from someone else here.

Just please make sure you're using a GFIC outlet near the pond, don't want
to have to sit by the big pond in the sky too early.

-S

Snooze wrote:
"Gareee©" wrote in message
...
Note: Use a DC wall adapter for power with 1 - 2 Amps output.
ie: 12 volts DC with a 20 watt bulb


Sounds like he's talking about the DC wall adaptors you get to charge cell
phones, portable electronics, cordless phones etc. Just cut the end off,
usually a barrel tip.

On the adaptor it will say something like input: 120v ac, output 9v dc 500
mA. In this case you're looking for something that has an output of 12v dc
and 1000 mA, which will give you a slightly dimmer bulb, but a longer bulb
lifespan. An output if 12v dc with 2000 mA would give you a brighter bulb.

If you can't find one in that kitchen drawer, or your local electronics
surplus shop, or radio shack, then there's always mail order.

http://www.allelectronics.com/matrix...nsformers.html

Good luck



Yeah ...I'm an electronic technologist so I have lots of these
transformers lying around. I never throw one out from old phones or
games etc.

Yes ...if you want the full Wattage from the bulb then
ex: 12 volt bulb at 20 watts 20W/12V= 1.67 Amps is the minimum
transformer you will need but as you said if you want lower brightness
then you can go lower as you please.

even if you look hard on e-bay this would cost you about $30.00.

I figure the homemade one will cost you under $10.00 and even less if
you have the transformer lying around.

Snooze wrote:
Just please make sure you're using a GFIC outlet near the pond, don't want
to have to sit by the big pond in the sky too early.

This is a must and the building codes here require a GFIC outlet
whenever it is close to a water source or outdoors.

"CanadianCowboy©" wrote in message
...
Snooze wrote:
"Gareee©" wrote in message
...
Note: Use a DC wall adapter for power with 1 - 2 Amps output.
ie: 12 volts DC with a 20 watt bulb


Sounds like he's talking about the DC wall adaptors you get to charge
cell phones, portable electronics, cordless phones etc. Just cut the end
off, usually a barrel tip.

On the adaptor it will say something like input: 120v ac, output 9v dc
500 mA. In this case you're looking for something that has an output of
12v dc and 1000 mA, which will give you a slightly dimmer bulb, but a
longer bulb lifespan. An output if 12v dc with 2000 mA would give you a
brighter bulb.

If you can't find one in that kitchen drawer, or your local electronics
surplus shop, or radio shack, then there's always mail order.

http://www.allelectronics.com/matrix...nsformers.html

Good luck

Yeah ...I'm an electronic technologist so I have lots of these
transformers lying around. I never throw one out from old phones or games
etc.

Yes ...if you want the full Wattage from the bulb then
ex: 12 volt bulb at 20 watts 20W/12V= 1.67 Amps is the minimum transformer
you will need but as you said if you want lower brightness then you can go
lower as you please.

even if you look hard on e-bay this would cost you about $30.00.

I figure the homemade one will cost you under $10.00 and even less if you
have the transformer lying around.

I save all those old transformers as well.. I'll have to root around and see
what I have here.

Thanks for all the info!

"CanadianCowboy©" wrote in message
...
Snooze wrote:
Just please make sure you're using a GFIC outlet near the pond, don't
want to have to sit by the big pond in the sky too early.

This is a must and the building codes here require a GFIC outlet whenever
it is close to a water source or outdoors.

SPEAKING of which... the GFCI's in my manufactured Clayton home have fuses
that are too low for outdoor electric tools, like my leaf blower, and my
pressure washer.

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier to
just use the outdoor plugs.)

Plus, I'd like to beef up the Christmas lights next year, or add a bigger
pump for the pond, and I'd need to increase the GFCI's power for that.

The breaker box looks pretty "plug n play".. turn the main power off,
replace the breaker with a higher volt/watt one, and then turn the master
breaker back on.

Kinda stupid to have an electrician do it if its something that simple.

--
Gareee©
(Gary Tabar Jr.)

"Gareee©" wrote in message
...

SPEAKING of which... the GFCI's in my manufactured Clayton home have fuses
that are too low for outdoor electric tools, like my leaf blower, and my
pressure washer.

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier
to just use the outdoor plugs.)


Yes/No. I'm guessing the breaker is a 15amp breaker, perhaps you could
increase it to a 20 amp breaker, if the wiring used can support that.

GFCIs are at the outlet, they're intended to be a breaker that trips if it
detects a ground fault. Closer to the source, faster reaction time the
breaker in the electrical panel. My knowledge of electrical code is fairly
minimal, so I have no idea if it's simple as just replacing the breaker.

-S

Gareee© wrote:

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier to
just use the outdoor plugs.)

What is the current rating on your outdoor outlet ? If it is not at
least 10 Amps then what was the builder thinking ?

The breaker box looks pretty "plug n play".. turn the main power off,
replace the breaker with a higher volt/watt one, and then turn the master
breaker back on.

You just need to turn off the particular area that you are working on
and NOT the whole house or else you will be spending half the day
reseting and configuring your clocks.

On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 22:02:06 GMT, "Snooze" wrote:

"Gareee©" wrote in message
...

SPEAKING of which... the GFCI's in my manufactured Clayton home have fuses
that are too low for outdoor electric tools, like my leaf blower, and my
pressure washer.

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier
to just use the outdoor plugs.)


Yes/No. I'm guessing the breaker is a 15amp breaker, perhaps you could
increase it to a 20 amp breaker, if the wiring used can support that.

GFCIs are at the outlet, they're intended to be a breaker that trips if it
detects a ground fault. Closer to the source, faster reaction time the
breaker in the electrical panel. My knowledge of electrical code is fairly
minimal, so I have no idea if it's simple as just replacing the breaker.

I'd say no, and not only no, but hell no! It is usually a matter of
snapping in circuit breakers like you describe, but the wiring beyond the
circuit breaker may not support the amperage for which the replacement
breaker is rated. The work isn't all that difficult at all, but the mere
fact that you ask about it indicates that you probably are not capable of
determining how much load a particular circuit can handle. Getting a
licensed electrician to do the job in no way guarantees that the job is
done right, but it does increase the odds.

Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA
Illiterate? Write for FREE help

SPEAKING of which... the GFCI's in my manufactured Clayton home have fuses
that are too low for outdoor electric tools, like my leaf blower, and my
pressure washer.

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier
to just use the outdoor plugs.)



Sure, just make sure that:
1. You don't touch any "live" parts inside the breaker box and
2. Your fire insurance is paid up, you'll probably be needing it.

CanadianCowboy© wrote:

Gareee© wrote:

Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier
to just use the outdoor plugs.)

What is the current rating on your outdoor outlet ? If it is not at
least 10 Amps then what was the builder thinking ?

The breaker box looks pretty "plug n play".. turn the main power off,
replace the breaker with a higher volt/watt one, and then turn the master
breaker back on.

You just need to turn off the particular area that you are working on
and NOT the whole house or else you will be spending half the day
reseting and configuring your clocks.

Please, don't just recommend he change his breakers without any analysis.
You'll have him burning his house down! Not to mention that an amateur
really shouldn't work in a breaker box _without_ turning off the main
breaker (as my wife continually tells me!).

First, what size are the breakers in your laundry room and outdoor circuits?
Second, what size are the cables coming out of those breakers?
Third, how long a cord are you using to the outdoor tools?

In Canada, both the laundry room and outdoor circuit would be #14 cable and
15Amp breakers. In the US, you might get away with 20A (I don't know the
US code, so don't take this as gospel!). I suspect your laundry room is
wired for 20A - but that _in no way_ suggests that your outdoor circuit
could also use 20A! In fact, it may not even be safe in the laundry room -
sometimes people put in oversized breakers when they shouldn't.

When using tools outdoors use the shortest possible extension cord, with the
largest possible gauge. Most outdoor extension cords are only #16. This
lowers the voltage considerably over a long run, which increases the
current draw on motors. You probably trip a 15A breaker. Spend the money
and get a 14 gauge extension cord. If you put a 20A breaker on a 15A
circuit, you can easily get the interior wires hot enough to start a fire
in your wall.
--
derek

oh.Derek is now a freaking electrician.No Derek, first you have to
grow the **** up you moron and quit throwing tantrums

On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 09:20:45 -0300, Derek Broughton
wrote:

x-CanadianCowboy© wrote:
x-
x- Gareee© wrote:
x-
x- Can I just replace those with higher wattage ones, like some of the other
x- fuses in my home? (The laundry rooms fuse is MUCH higher, and is where we
x- plug the outdoor tools into when we use them, bu tit would be MUCH easier
x- to just use the outdoor plugs.)
x-
x- What is the current rating on your outdoor outlet ? If it is not at
x- least 10 Amps then what was the builder thinking ?
x-
x- The breaker box looks pretty "plug n play".. turn the main power off,
x- replace the breaker with a higher volt/watt one, and then turn the master
x- breaker back on.
x-
x- You just need to turn off the particular area that you are working on
x- and NOT the whole house or else you will be spending half the day
x- reseting and configuring your clocks.
x-
x-Please, don't just recommend he change his breakers without any analysis.
x-You'll have him burning his house down! Not to mention that an amateur
x-really shouldn't work in a breaker box _without_ turning off the main
x-breaker (as my wife continually tells me!).
x-
x-First, what size are the breakers in your laundry room and outdoor circuits?
x-Second, what size are the cables coming out of those breakers?
x-Third, how long a cord are you using to the outdoor tools?
x-
x-In Canada, both the laundry room and outdoor circuit would be #14 cable and
x-15Amp breakers. In the US, you might get away with 20A (I don't know the
x-US code, so don't take this as gospel!). I suspect your laundry room is
x-wired for 20A - but that _in no way_ suggests that your outdoor circuit
x-could also use 20A! In fact, it may not even be safe in the laundry room -
x-sometimes people put in oversized breakers when they shouldn't.
x-
x-When using tools outdoors use the shortest possible extension cord, with the
x-largest possible gauge. Most outdoor extension cords are only #16. This
x-lowers the voltage considerably over a long run, which increases the
x-current draw on motors. You probably trip a 15A breaker. Spend the money
x-and get a 14 gauge extension cord. If you put a 20A breaker on a 15A
x-circuit, you can easily get the interior wires hot enough to start a fire
x-in your wall.

If ya dissagree with what I post then see below......
The original and one and only frugal ponder.

---
! !
! !
! !
! !
----! !----
----! ! ! !
! ! ! ! ! --
! ! ! ! ! / !
! ! / !
..
Just for Derek and Carol and anyone else it may fit!

"Derek Broughton" wrote in message
...

Please, don't just recommend he change his breakers without any analysis.
You'll have him burning his house down! Not to mention that an amateur
really shouldn't work in a breaker box _without_ turning off the main
breaker (as my wife continually tells me!).

I'd turn it off anyway.. I don;t mind resetting a few clocks, rather then
get a nasty "surge".

First, what size are the breakers in your laundry room and outdoor
circuits?

The outdoor ones are 15, and the laundry room is 30.

Second, what size are the cables coming out of those breakers?
Third, how long a cord are you using to the outdoor tools?

The cords are just the standard built in cords to the devices. The leaf
blower doesn't trip the circuit, but both the electric weed whacker and my
pressure washer do. (Not heavy duty commercial items, but run of the mill
readily available equipment.

Fortunately, the house comes with a complete electrical harness guide, and a
quick glance appeared to also show limitations as well. I'll need to read up
on what's what.

I've replaced sockets in the house before, and added dimmer light switches
and ceiling fans myself with no ill effects (other then a sore back working
on the damned ceiling fan), and I did partial rewiring of some old wiring in
my mom's old house, and as long as you research a little first, I think you
a pretty safe doing minor stuff like this.

You just have to read up a little, and use research and common sense.
--
Gareee©
(Gary Tabar Jr.)