Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Pollen Storage
Anyone have suggestions on the best way to store pollen and keep it viable.
I have two plants of the same genus, however, as they originate from opposite sides of the globe they bloom months apart. I would like to try to cross these plants, so I will need to store pollen from one until the other blooms. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Anybody out there ??? Pollen is from Eriobotrya japonica, I'm thinking along these lines, Pollen in small plastic container, or a test tube, cotton wool bung. Inside a larger container, moisture absorbing granules between the two ( the sort you sometimes get in packaging ). Larger container has airtight lid, and the whole stored in the deep freeze. But will it work ? So many experts, so few answers! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Pollen Storage
In article , Tim Perry wrote:
Tim Perry;810905 Wrote: Anyone have suggestions on the best way to store pollen and keep it viable. I have two plants of the same genus, however, as they originate from opposite sides of the globe they bloom months apart. I would like to try to cross these plants, so I will need to store pollen from one until the other blooms. Continued;- Anybody out there ??? Pollen is from Eriobotrya japonica, I'm thinking along these lines, Pollen in small plastic container, or a test tube, cotton wool bung. Inside a larger container, moisture absorbing granules between the two ( the sort you sometimes get in packaging ). Larger container has airtight lid, and the whole stored in the deep freeze. But will it work ? So many experts, so few answers! I think it might depend on individual species. I know one bloke who stores _Eucalyptus_ spp. pollen for some time in the fridge -- but probably not as long as six months. (I'll ask him, IICR tomorrow.) I've also been told that date pollen is routinely stored during the season, but I'm not sure how or for how long. Maybe you could google for something like "pollen storage [methods, techniques, etc.]"? In at least some cleistogamous legumes the pollen dies very quickly (e.g. shed at dusk, dead before morning). I suspect any dehydration of their fresh pollen would probably kill it immediately. I don't know what would happen if it was frozen without drying. Why not just try it with your species? If you've got access to even a low power microscope it's not hard to see pollen germ tubes immerging. Of course, there could be a problem getting it to germinate _in vitro_. :-) You could try googling something like "pollen germination methods", or go to a decent library. If you can get it to work with fresh pollen AND soon after drying/ freezing, you can then do your own quality control by testing small samples as the weeks go by. You really need to be able to do this anyway, otherwise you won't know if failure to cross was due to incompatibility or just due to dead pollen! (And don't forget it's possible that an interspecific cross will work in one direction but not the other way.) Cheers, Phred. -- LID |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for that Phred, yes I know the cross pollination should be tried both
ways, but here I have a snag. Due to the climate here, in order to be fairly confident that the Eriobotrya would have any chance of carrying the fruit to maturity, so that I could extract seeds, I would have to employ heated greenhouses and artificial 'plant' lights. However, the plant I intend to pollinate is fully hardy here, and produces heavy crops of fruit with viable seed. I am hoping that a few of the F1 plants will carry the 'female' hardiness. I know I may also run into problems if the pollen grain size shown a marked variation between the 2 subjects, but I'll have a go anyhow, nothing to lose. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Pollen Storage
In article , Tim Perry wrote:
Thanks for that Phred, yes I know the cross pollination should be tried both ways, but here I have a snag. Due to the climate here, in order to be fairly confident that the Eriobotrya would have any chance of carrying the fruit to maturity, so that I could extract seeds, I would have to employ heated greenhouses and artificial 'plant' lights. However, the plant I intend to pollinate is fully hardy here, and produces heavy crops of fruit with viable seed. I am hoping that a few of the F1 plants will carry the 'female' hardiness. I know I may also run into problems if the pollen grain size shown a marked variation between the 2 subjects, but I'll have a go anyhow, nothing to lose. Good luck with your project! And be sure to report back here when you have some results -- either good or bad. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested to hear how you go. Cheers, Phred. -- LID |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Hey, would you believe it, in addition to this thread there are no fewer
than 3 threads on 'Plant Biology'. So we have a grand total of 352 viewers, but just 9 replies, and when you consider the fact that 6 of those are me anyway, it don't look good. Is there not even 1 Scientist or Biologist out there that can help ?. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
pollen storage | Plant Biology | |||
Sign petition to USDA to protect crops from being fertilized by pollen from GMO pharm. crops | Edible Gardening | |||
pollen germination in vitro | Plant Science | |||
pollen germination in vitro | Plant Science | |||
removing pollen | United Kingdom |