I need advice!

I got the Burr Nelly Isler 'Swiss Beauty' in the mail, and it came with four
spikes, two of them with big buds and two smaller ones. However, some of the
buds have blasted in the week or so that I have had the plant. Also a couple
of the leaves have grown yellow, and even when I got the plant I saw some
signs of rot on a few of the pseudobulbs, not much, and it's not been
spreading in the meantime, but still. The pseudobulbs looked wrinkled about
5 days after my initial watering, so I watered it again. However, I am used
to the pseudobulbs on my catt plumping up nicely the next day after
watering, and yet the Burr's pseudobulbs look as wrinkled as before
watering.

So I am thinking that maybe I need to take a look at the health of it's
roots. I would like to repot it to see what's going on down there. I am
resigned to the fact that the two spikes with the larger buds may not make
it, and if the root situation is dire I am more interested in saving the
plant than any of the spikes. However, ...

Questions:

I heard that unlike Phals, cattleyas can be only repotted at certain times
of year (was it during most active growth?), and that if repotted during the
wrong time of year this could kill the plant. (?) Is this true of Onc's and
intergeneric hybrids as well? Should I refrain from repotting it now after
all?

At this point I am not sure whether the plant is really in serious trouble
or whether I am just overreacting to signs of stress that just show that it
needs to adapt to it's new environment (the shift from greenhouse to
apartment). Should I repot now, or wait and see a bit longer?

If I look at the roots and there seem to be a lot of healthy roots. If I
just put it back in the medium and pot with as little disturbing of the
roots as possible, would the low spikes likely be fine and not in more
danger of blasting than they are now? If I see a lot of healthy roots, but
some rot, should I trim the rot away, or should I do as little disturbing of
all roots as possible if I want the spikes to not blast? (This is assuming
that overall the root health is ok, otherwise I won't care too much about
these spikes.)

Note: Some of you may remember my saying that I didn't repot orchids myself,
but would take them to a plant nursery to be repotted. This has changed, I
have repotted some of my orchids myself in the meantime, and am planning to
do this one myself. I still might take advantage of the repotting service at
times, since it is very convenient and quite affordable, but I no longer do
this all the time.

Thank you,
Joanna

Hi Joanna,
Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, and their friends and relatives produce a new
flush of roots when the new growth is part way to maturity. The best
time to repot is when you see the first new roots start showing, or when
the new growth is 3 or 4 inches tall (because you know the new roots
will be arriving soon).
In this case, you're worried (with good cause) about root rot. If that
was my plant, I would slip it out of the pot as gently as possible. If
there were live roots down to the bottom of the pot, I would slip the
pot back on and wait for new growth before repotting. On the other hand,
if you find a rotted mess, you should clean up all the dead stuff and
repot in fresh medium. No use letting more and more roots die off and
making matters worse.

Steve



J Fortuna wrote:
I need advice!

I got the Burr Nelly Isler 'Swiss Beauty' in the mail, and it came with four
spikes, two of them with big buds and two smaller ones. However, some of the
buds have blasted in the week or so that I have had the plant. Also a couple
of the leaves have grown yellow, and even when I got the plant I saw some
signs of rot on a few of the pseudobulbs, not much, and it's not been
spreading in the meantime, but still. The pseudobulbs looked wrinkled about
5 days after my initial watering, so I watered it again. However, I am used
to the pseudobulbs on my catt plumping up nicely the next day after
watering, and yet the Burr's pseudobulbs look as wrinkled as before
watering.

So I am thinking that maybe I need to take a look at the health of it's
roots. I would like to repot it to see what's going on down there. I am
resigned to the fact that the two spikes with the larger buds may not make
it, and if the root situation is dire I am more interested in saving the
plant than any of the spikes. However, ...

Questions:

I heard that unlike Phals, cattleyas can be only repotted at certain times
of year (was it during most active growth?), and that if repotted during the
wrong time of year this could kill the plant. (?) Is this true of Onc's and
intergeneric hybrids as well? Should I refrain from repotting it now after
all?

At this point I am not sure whether the plant is really in serious trouble
or whether I am just overreacting to signs of stress that just show that it
needs to adapt to it's new environment (the shift from greenhouse to
apartment). Should I repot now, or wait and see a bit longer?

If I look at the roots and there seem to be a lot of healthy roots. If I
just put it back in the medium and pot with as little disturbing of the
roots as possible, would the low spikes likely be fine and not in more
danger of blasting than they are now? If I see a lot of healthy roots, but
some rot, should I trim the rot away, or should I do as little disturbing of
all roots as possible if I want the spikes to not blast? (This is assuming
that overall the root health is ok, otherwise I won't care too much about
these spikes.)

Note: Some of you may remember my saying that I didn't repot orchids myself,
but would take them to a plant nursery to be repotted. This has changed, I
have repotted some of my orchids myself in the meantime, and am planning to
do this one myself. I still might take advantage of the repotting service at
times, since it is very convenient and quite affordable, but I no longer do
this all the time.

Thank you,
Joanna

Steve,
Thank you! I followed your advice and gently slipped the orchid out of the
pot. It has a lot of healthy roots and no sign of root rot. I hope I did
not disturb it too much by removing it from the pot and putting it back in.
However, the bark medium felt very dry to me and the pseudobulbs are still
wrinkled, even though I had watered it yesterday morning. It's in a 5 inch
plastic pot filled with a bark mix. It's under artificial lights, so that it
gets about 1000-1500 foot candles from that and then during the day time the
blinds are up but it's a shaded northern window, so not much more light from
that. However, I have been fighting a loosing battle with humidity these
past few weeks, the humidifier I have is not strong enough, now that it's
the middle of winter and we are heating the apartment with central heat.
When I glanced at the humidifier this evening to my horror I discovered that
it was 24 percent humidity only. I will strive to buy a second humidifier
this weekend, however, since the Burr Nelly Isler feels so dry, should I
water it again, even though it was watered yesterday? How often would you
expect an Onc hybrid to be watered in these conditions? And yes, I know that
the humidity will need to be corrected, so these conditions won't stay the
same much longer. My Phals and Paphs don't seem to mind a bit though! It's
just the cochleanthes and the Burr that do. Is the Burr Nelly Isler one of
those orchids that need to be watered fairly frequently? My Phals an Paphs
generally are watered either once a week or less often than that, my small
SLC seems to require water about every 5 days, and I water the cochleanthes
every 3 days (since I really don't understand it well, I just go by calendar
in its case), where would the Burrgerea fit into the watering requirement
scheme?
Thanks for your advice.
Joanna

"Steve" wrote in message
...
Hi Joanna,
Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, and their friends and relatives produce a new
flush of roots when the new growth is part way to maturity. The best
time to repot is when you see the first new roots start showing, or when
the new growth is 3 or 4 inches tall (because you know the new roots
will be arriving soon).
In this case, you're worried (with good cause) about root rot. If that
was my plant, I would slip it out of the pot as gently as possible. If
there were live roots down to the bottom of the pot, I would slip the
pot back on and wait for new growth before repotting. On the other hand,
if you find a rotted mess, you should clean up all the dead stuff and
repot in fresh medium. No use letting more and more roots die off and
making matters worse.

Steve



J Fortuna wrote:
I need advice!

I got the Burr Nelly Isler 'Swiss Beauty' in the mail, and it came with
four
spikes, two of them with big buds and two smaller ones. However, some of
the
buds have blasted in the week or so that I have had the plant. Also a
couple
of the leaves have grown yellow, and even when I got the plant I saw
some
signs of rot on a few of the pseudobulbs, not much, and it's not been
spreading in the meantime, but still. The pseudobulbs looked wrinkled
about
5 days after my initial watering, so I watered it again. However, I am
used
to the pseudobulbs on my catt plumping up nicely the next day after
watering, and yet the Burr's pseudobulbs look as wrinkled as before
watering.

So I am thinking that maybe I need to take a look at the health of it's
roots. I would like to repot it to see what's going on down there. I am
resigned to the fact that the two spikes with the larger buds may not
make
it, and if the root situation is dire I am more interested in saving the
plant than any of the spikes. However, ...

Questions:

I heard that unlike Phals, cattleyas can be only repotted at certain
times
of year (was it during most active growth?), and that if repotted during
the
wrong time of year this could kill the plant. (?) Is this true of Onc's
and
intergeneric hybrids as well? Should I refrain from repotting it now
after
all?

At this point I am not sure whether the plant is really in serious
trouble
or whether I am just overreacting to signs of stress that just show that
it
needs to adapt to it's new environment (the shift from greenhouse to
apartment). Should I repot now, or wait and see a bit longer?

If I look at the roots and there seem to be a lot of healthy roots. If I
just put it back in the medium and pot with as little disturbing of the
roots as possible, would the low spikes likely be fine and not in more
danger of blasting than they are now? If I see a lot of healthy roots,
but
some rot, should I trim the rot away, or should I do as little
disturbing of
all roots as possible if I want the spikes to not blast? (This is
assuming
that overall the root health is ok, otherwise I won't care too much
about
these spikes.)

Note: Some of you may remember my saying that I didn't repot orchids
myself,
but would take them to a plant nursery to be repotted. This has changed,
I
have repotted some of my orchids myself in the meantime, and am planning
to
do this one myself. I still might take advantage of the repotting
service at
times, since it is very convenient and quite affordable, but I no longer
do
this all the time.

Thank you,
Joanna

Joanna,
That's good news about finding lots of healthy roots. If the bark was
really dry down inside the pot, even though you watered yesterday, I
think it needs a good soak. Either hold it under running water for a few
minutes of put the pot in a container of water for several minutes to
get it to keep some moisture. After the water drains away, think about
how heavy the pot feels. Next week or beyond, if it feels too light
after normal watering, you might want to soak it again.
Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, Miltonopsis, and their hybrids don't want to
get as dry between waterings as a Catt would. Water before things get
too dry. The wrinkled pseudobulbs should plump back up but it will take
some time. Probably weeks. You would probably be shocked to know how dry
the air is here. We got above zero outside today for the first time in 3
days. I see it is 3 below zero again now. I don't have a way to
accurately measure the humidity inside but I know it is way down there.
I do grow my plants in the basement where it is cooler and I have quite
a few plants grouped together. That helps just a little but I have never
used a humidifier at all. I have 5 Odontoglossums and a few Oncidiums
down there. If I can keep the 2 newest pseudobulbs fairly plump, I am happy.
By the way, if your plant looses some leaves as it adjusts to your
conditions, don't loose any sleep over it. My Odontoglossums acquired a
rust like fungus last year that made them drop all the older leaves and
weakened the newer ones. (I found it to be curable with some fungicide
applications last summer.) One of them dropped every leaf and it was a
leafless collection of pseudobulbs for about 4 months. It is putting out
such a strong new growth that I wouldn't be surprised if it bloomed on
that growth. Not too long ago I posted pictures, on ABPO, of 2 of the
Odonts blooming, even though they had been down to a few leaves just
months before.

Steve




J Fortuna wrote:
Steve,
Thank you! I followed your advice and gently slipped the orchid out of the
pot. It has a lot of healthy roots and no sign of root rot. I hope I did
not disturb it too much by removing it from the pot and putting it back in.
However, the bark medium felt very dry to me and the pseudobulbs are still
wrinkled, even though I had watered it yesterday morning. It's in a 5 inch
plastic pot filled with a bark mix. It's under artificial lights, so that it
gets about 1000-1500 foot candles from that and then during the day time the
blinds are up but it's a shaded northern window, so not much more light from
that. However, I have been fighting a loosing battle with humidity these
past few weeks, the humidifier I have is not strong enough, now that it's
the middle of winter and we are heating the apartment with central heat.
When I glanced at the humidifier this evening to my horror I discovered that
it was 24 percent humidity only. I will strive to buy a second humidifier
this weekend, however, since the Burr Nelly Isler feels so dry, should I
water it again, even though it was watered yesterday? How often would you
expect an Onc hybrid to be watered in these conditions? And yes, I know that
the humidity will need to be corrected, so these conditions won't stay the
same much longer. My Phals and Paphs don't seem to mind a bit though! It's
just the cochleanthes and the Burr that do. Is the Burr Nelly Isler one of
those orchids that need to be watered fairly frequently? My Phals an Paphs
generally are watered either once a week or less often than that, my small
SLC seems to require water about every 5 days, and I water the cochleanthes
every 3 days (since I really don't understand it well, I just go by calendar
in its case), where would the Burrgerea fit into the watering requirement
scheme?
Thanks for your advice.
Joanna

Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that you
bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like that?
I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same one.
Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine ever
were....

K Barrett

"Steve" wrote in message
...

[snip relevant stuff about odonts]

Thank you Steve for all your good advice!

I will soak the Burr tomorrow morning. I was quite relieved to see all those
healthy roots, though it makes me feel a bit silly that once again I have
overreacted and worried too much. It is very inconvenient that a plant that
has been overwatered shows many of the very same symptoms as a plant that
has been underwatered. I knew that I should check the weight of the pot, but
unfortunately I am not nearly good at that, though I am becoming better. I
learned orchid care with orchids in moss, and thus was used to just judging
by touching the surface. The pot weight method of judging an orchid's
watering needs is taking me way too long to get used to. Though I have quite
a few orchids in bark now, and have had some of them for one and a half
years already, I still do not trust my judgment on the relative weight of
the pot sufficiently.

Joanna

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Joanna,
That's good news about finding lots of healthy roots. If the bark was
really dry down inside the pot, even though you watered yesterday, I
think it needs a good soak. Either hold it under running water for a few
minutes of put the pot in a container of water for several minutes to
get it to keep some moisture. After the water drains away, think about
how heavy the pot feels. Next week or beyond, if it feels too light
after normal watering, you might want to soak it again.
Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, Miltonopsis, and their hybrids don't want to
get as dry between waterings as a Catt would. Water before things get
too dry. The wrinkled pseudobulbs should plump back up but it will take
some time. Probably weeks. You would probably be shocked to know how dry
the air is here. We got above zero outside today for the first time in 3
days. I see it is 3 below zero again now. I don't have a way to
accurately measure the humidity inside but I know it is way down there.
I do grow my plants in the basement where it is cooler and I have quite
a few plants grouped together. That helps just a little but I have never
used a humidifier at all. I have 5 Odontoglossums and a few Oncidiums
down there. If I can keep the 2 newest pseudobulbs fairly plump, I am
happy.
By the way, if your plant looses some leaves as it adjusts to your
conditions, don't loose any sleep over it. My Odontoglossums acquired a
rust like fungus last year that made them drop all the older leaves and
weakened the newer ones. (I found it to be curable with some fungicide
applications last summer.) One of them dropped every leaf and it was a
leafless collection of pseudobulbs for about 4 months. It is putting out
such a strong new growth that I wouldn't be surprised if it bloomed on
that growth. Not too long ago I posted pictures, on ABPO, of 2 of the
Odonts blooming, even though they had been down to a few leaves just
months before.

Steve




J Fortuna wrote:
Steve,
Thank you! I followed your advice and gently slipped the orchid out of
the
pot. It has a lot of healthy roots and no sign of root rot. I hope I
did
not disturb it too much by removing it from the pot and putting it back
in.
However, the bark medium felt very dry to me and the pseudobulbs are
still
wrinkled, even though I had watered it yesterday morning. It's in a 5
inch
plastic pot filled with a bark mix. It's under artificial lights, so
that it
gets about 1000-1500 foot candles from that and then during the day time
the
blinds are up but it's a shaded northern window, so not much more light
from
that. However, I have been fighting a loosing battle with humidity these
past few weeks, the humidifier I have is not strong enough, now that
it's
the middle of winter and we are heating the apartment with central heat.
When I glanced at the humidifier this evening to my horror I discovered
that
it was 24 percent humidity only. I will strive to buy a second
humidifier
this weekend, however, since the Burr Nelly Isler feels so dry, should I
water it again, even though it was watered yesterday? How often would
you
expect an Onc hybrid to be watered in these conditions? And yes, I know
that
the humidity will need to be corrected, so these conditions won't stay
the
same much longer. My Phals and Paphs don't seem to mind a bit though!
It's
just the cochleanthes and the Burr that do. Is the Burr Nelly Isler one
of
those orchids that need to be watered fairly frequently? My Phals an
Paphs
generally are watered either once a week or less often than that, my
small
SLC seems to require water about every 5 days, and I water the
cochleanthes
every 3 days (since I really don't understand it well, I just go by
calendar
in its case), where would the Burrgerea fit into the watering
requirement
scheme?
Thanks for your advice.
Joanna

Hi K....
Yes, you sent me a Dorothy Wisnom 'Golden Gate'
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...oldenGate1.jpg
You also sent a Stephan Isler
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...sler1202_1.jpg

Sadly, both of those plants have acquired a disease and I should, and
soon will, throw them away. I saw the disease first on an old Onc. Gower
Ramsey. then it showed up in a Colmanara Wildcat. Then it started in the
2 from you. It starts as yellow streaks and translucent spots in the
leaves. The plants go into decline leading to several small weak growths.
I know how to avoid spreading virus so I was hoping it was a fungus that
could be cured. Unlike the story about my Odontoglossums, fungicides are
not helping a bit. There's a lot about this story that reminds me of the
Phal disease that spread through all my Phals.

Steve

K Barrett wrote:
Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that you
bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like that?
I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same one.
Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine ever
were....

K Barrett

Hi K....
Yes, you sent me a Dorothy Wisnom 'Golden Gate'
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...oldenGate1.jpg
You also sent a Stephan Isler
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...sler1202_1.jpg

Sadly, both of those plants have acquired a disease and I should, and
soon will, throw them away. I saw the disease first on an old Onc. Gower
Ramsey. then it showed up in a Colmanara Wildcat. Then it started in the
2 from you. It starts as yellow streaks and translucent spots in the
leaves. The plants go into decline leading to several small weak growths.
I know how to avoid spreading virus so I was hoping it was a fungus that
could be cured. Unlike the story about my Odontoglossums, fungicides are
not helping a bit. There's a lot about this story that reminds me of the
Phal disease that spread through all my Phals.

Steve

K Barrett wrote:
Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that you
bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like that?
I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same one.
Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine ever
were....

K Barrett

Yep, Dorothy Wisnom's the one.

Man, what is it that is spreading through your collection? The streaks
sound like virus. But without a test it isn't logical to speculate.

I have been impressed, however, with the number of other individuals that
make similar claims in their collections. If there was such a thing as a
NIH or CDC for plants I'm sure we'd see more interest or activity concerning
identification and erradication of this problem.

K

"Steve" wrote in message
...
Hi K....
Yes, you sent me a Dorothy Wisnom 'Golden Gate'
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...oldenGate1.jpg
You also sent a Stephan Isler
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...sler1202_1.jpg

Sadly, both of those plants have acquired a disease and I should, and
soon will, throw them away. I saw the disease first on an old Onc. Gower
Ramsey. then it showed up in a Colmanara Wildcat. Then it started in the
2 from you. It starts as yellow streaks and translucent spots in the
leaves. The plants go into decline leading to several small weak growths.
I know how to avoid spreading virus so I was hoping it was a fungus that
could be cured. Unlike the story about my Odontoglossums, fungicides are
not helping a bit. There's a lot about this story that reminds me of the
Phal disease that spread through all my Phals.

Steve

K Barrett wrote:
Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that
you
bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like
that?
I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same
one.
Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine
ever
were....

K Barrett

I, too, have found a number of my plants concealing viruses...I wonder
if their prevalence can be attributed primarily to the fact that we
clone so much. I read somewhere that if a plant is created the old
fashioned way, i.e. male + female gametes, the virus will not be passed
on. Thus, viruses I imagine would not be transmitted as much in nature.
As well, when a plant has 16 generations of hybridizations under its
belt, it might make it genetically unstable, and possibly more
susceptible to infection?

Cheers,
Xi

K Barrett wrote:
Yep, Dorothy Wisnom's the one.

Man, what is it that is spreading through your collection? The streaks
sound like virus. But without a test it isn't logical to speculate.

I have been impressed, however, with the number of other individuals that
make similar claims in their collections. If there was such a thing as a
NIH or CDC for plants I'm sure we'd see more interest or activity concerning
identification and erradication of this problem.

K

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Hi K....
Yes, you sent me a Dorothy Wisnom 'Golden Gate'
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...oldenGate1.jpg
You also sent a Stephan Isler
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...sler1202_1.jpg

Sadly, both of those plants have acquired a disease and I should, and
soon will, throw them away. I saw the disease first on an old Onc. Gower
Ramsey. then it showed up in a Colmanara Wildcat. Then it started in the
2 from you. It starts as yellow streaks and translucent spots in the
leaves. The plants go into decline leading to several small weak growths.
I know how to avoid spreading virus so I was hoping it was a fungus that
could be cured. Unlike the story about my Odontoglossums, fungicides are
not helping a bit. There's a lot about this story that reminds me of the
Phal disease that spread through all my Phals.

Steve

K Barrett wrote:

Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that

you

bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like

that?

I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same

one.

Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine

ever

were....

K Barrett

I, too, have found a number of my plants concealing viruses...I wonder
if their prevalence can be attributed primarily to the fact that we
clone so much. I read somewhere that if a plant is created the old
fashioned way, i.e. male + female gametes, the virus will not be passed
on. Thus, viruses I imagine would not be transmitted as much in nature.
As well, when a plant has 16 generations of hybridizations under its
belt, it might make it genetically unstable, and possibly more
susceptible to infection?

Cheers,
Xi

K Barrett wrote:
Yep, Dorothy Wisnom's the one.

Man, what is it that is spreading through your collection? The streaks
sound like virus. But without a test it isn't logical to speculate.

I have been impressed, however, with the number of other individuals that
make similar claims in their collections. If there was such a thing as a
NIH or CDC for plants I'm sure we'd see more interest or activity concerning
identification and erradication of this problem.

K

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Hi K....
Yes, you sent me a Dorothy Wisnom 'Golden Gate'
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...oldenGate1.jpg
You also sent a Stephan Isler
http://stevewilson.homestead.com/fil...sler1202_1.jpg

Sadly, both of those plants have acquired a disease and I should, and
soon will, throw them away. I saw the disease first on an old Onc. Gower
Ramsey. then it showed up in a Colmanara Wildcat. Then it started in the
2 from you. It starts as yellow streaks and translucent spots in the
leaves. The plants go into decline leading to several small weak growths.
I know how to avoid spreading virus so I was hoping it was a fungus that
could be cured. Unlike the story about my Odontoglossums, fungicides are
not helping a bit. There's a lot about this story that reminds me of the
Phal disease that spread through all my Phals.

Steve

K Barrett wrote:

Steve, what was the name of the odont I gave you a few years ago (that

you

bloom better than I ever did?) Was Dorothy Wisnom, or something like

that?

I have a 'lost tag' orchid in spike and I want to see if its the same

one.

Yellow, star shaped, flat, nice. Your conditions are better than mine

ever

were....

K Barrett

Well, I was writing a reply opposing your post, when I suddenly realized
that I agree with it, LOL!!

It could be that these are over cloned, or over hybridized (like Cocker
Spaniels or German Shepards) - we are seeing all the defects).

Andy Easton once said that companies aren't checking for vigor in the
individuals they choose to clone, they just clone 'em. So it may very well
be that they have been strained to the point of breaking.

Virus is still spread with gamete exhange (how's that as a word for normal
sex?) I think what you are thinking of is the difference betweeen green pod
harvest technique and dry pod harvest technique where no moist tissue from
the parent is cut into while harvesting seed (and hence virus from that
tissue contaminates the seed) Or that's my understanding of the difference -
I'll bow to someone elses' superior knowledge.

K Barrett

"Xi Wang" wrote in message
news:gsWKd.208289$8l.16396@pd7tw1no...
I, too, have found a number of my plants concealing viruses...I wonder
if their prevalence can be attributed primarily to the fact that we
clone so much. I read somewhere that if a plant is created the old
fashioned way, i.e. male + female gametes, the virus will not be passed
on. Thus, viruses I imagine would not be transmitted as much in nature.
As well, when a plant has 16 generations of hybridizations under its
belt, it might make it genetically unstable, and possibly more
susceptible to infection?

Cheers,
Xi

i seem to recall the gist of a discussion on this was that if the pod parent
was virused, then it will infect the offspring, if the pollen parent is
virused, but the pod parent is not, then it won't.

or something like that. if only i could remember where i read this
discussion....

--mo--

auntymo wrote:

i seem to recall the gist of a discussion on this was that if the pod parent
was virused, then it will infect the offspring, if the pollen parent is
virused, but the pod parent is not, then it won't.

or something like that. if only i could remember where i read this
discussion....

--mo--


I seem to recall that applying pollen from a virused plant to a non
infected plant can infect the good plant. For that reason it wouldn't be
done.

I'm about as sure of my sources as you are of yours. ;-)

Steve

hehe!
well i guess this discussion we're recalling didn't have a conclusive ending
then...

:P

--mo--



"Steve" wrote in message
...
I seem to recall that applying pollen from a virused plant to a non
infected plant can infect the good plant. For that reason it wouldn't be
done.

I'm about as sure of my sources as you are of yours. ;-)

Steve