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#1
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Paph - Right thing or kiss of death?
Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about
this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#2
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In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally.
The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#3
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In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally.
The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#4
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Thanks Ray. Would the bark have made a difference in either case?
"Ray" wrote in message ... In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally. The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! . "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#5
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Thanks Ray. Would the bark have made a difference in either case?
"Ray" wrote in message ... In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally. The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! . "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#6
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I'm not sure what you're asking.
You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message m... Thanks Ray. Would the bark have made a difference in either case? "Ray" wrote in message ... In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally. The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! . "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#7
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I'm not sure what you're asking.
You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message m... Thanks Ray. Would the bark have made a difference in either case? "Ray" wrote in message ... In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally. The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! . "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
#8
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"Ray" wrote in message ...
I'm not sure what you're asking. You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. |
#9
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"Ray" wrote in message ...
I'm not sure what you're asking. You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. |
#10
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Poor root growth or functioning equals poor nutrient uptake, and that can
prevent blooming, but that's not the only potential reason. Others to consider are insufficient light, insufficient fertilizer, and fertilizer with too much nitrogen. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message m... "Ray" wrote in message ... I'm not sure what you're asking. You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. |
#11
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Poor root growth or functioning equals poor nutrient uptake, and that can
prevent blooming, but that's not the only potential reason. Others to consider are insufficient light, insufficient fertilizer, and fertilizer with too much nitrogen. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "Joe" wrote in message m... "Ray" wrote in message ... I'm not sure what you're asking. You stated the bark was black and slimy - a sure sign of decomposition, and a desperate need for transplanting. Fresh bark is OK for many growers, but its decomposition can be a root-killer. Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. |
#12
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Joe wrote:
Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Bad bark (or old medium of any sort) is very bad for most paphs. Some tolerate it better than others, and it depends a lot on your water quality. I'm pretty sure it is more a function of salt (or 'crud') accumulation than actual density of the mix, unless the mix is really really soft. You can grow paphs in old socks if you want, just change the socks once a year. In a classic case of not practicing what I preach, I've gone a bit longer than I care to admit between repottings of my paph collection. Some of them were repotted in the spring, some haven't been repotted for 2 years. All the ones repotted in the spring are doing substantially better than the ones in older mix. I know that when I finally do get around to repotting those older ones, I'll have substantial root loss and I'll probably have to move them down a pot size. I don't grow as many phals, but usually failure to thrive for phals (in my hands) is temperature related. I've heard some vendors say that they will just plain stop growing below 60F, and take months to start up again. If so, I have a few hundred phals that got down into the very low 40s that aren't going to be doing much for me... Most of them are in spike though. Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Firm and white (or green), usually with green or red tips. Firm is the important part. They should be turgid and round in cross-section. Hard and flat is not good... Soft and mushy you already know isn't good... Sometimes you will see a constriction (usually at a bend, which is ok). Sometimes a short expanse of 'thread-like' connection between the firm white parts. That is a section of root that only has the central core remaining. Not usually the best sign, I tend to clip those roots back and hope that they will branch. Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. They are tougher than most people give them credit for. They tolerate me pretty well, and that says something. Rob -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#13
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Joe wrote:
Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Bad bark (or old medium of any sort) is very bad for most paphs. Some tolerate it better than others, and it depends a lot on your water quality. I'm pretty sure it is more a function of salt (or 'crud') accumulation than actual density of the mix, unless the mix is really really soft. You can grow paphs in old socks if you want, just change the socks once a year. In a classic case of not practicing what I preach, I've gone a bit longer than I care to admit between repottings of my paph collection. Some of them were repotted in the spring, some haven't been repotted for 2 years. All the ones repotted in the spring are doing substantially better than the ones in older mix. I know that when I finally do get around to repotting those older ones, I'll have substantial root loss and I'll probably have to move them down a pot size. I don't grow as many phals, but usually failure to thrive for phals (in my hands) is temperature related. I've heard some vendors say that they will just plain stop growing below 60F, and take months to start up again. If so, I have a few hundred phals that got down into the very low 40s that aren't going to be doing much for me... Most of them are in spike though. Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Firm and white (or green), usually with green or red tips. Firm is the important part. They should be turgid and round in cross-section. Hard and flat is not good... Soft and mushy you already know isn't good... Sometimes you will see a constriction (usually at a bend, which is ok). Sometimes a short expanse of 'thread-like' connection between the firm white parts. That is a section of root that only has the central core remaining. Not usually the best sign, I tend to clip those roots back and hope that they will branch. Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. They are tougher than most people give them credit for. They tolerate me pretty well, and that says something. Rob -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#14
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Joe wrote:
Would the nasty bark be the cause of the lack of blooming and seeming inadequate root development of the paph and of the dormancy of the phal? Bad bark (or old medium of any sort) is very bad for most paphs. Some tolerate it better than others, and it depends a lot on your water quality. I'm pretty sure it is more a function of salt (or 'crud') accumulation than actual density of the mix, unless the mix is really really soft. You can grow paphs in old socks if you want, just change the socks once a year. In a classic case of not practicing what I preach, I've gone a bit longer than I care to admit between repottings of my paph collection. Some of them were repotted in the spring, some haven't been repotted for 2 years. All the ones repotted in the spring are doing substantially better than the ones in older mix. I know that when I finally do get around to repotting those older ones, I'll have substantial root loss and I'll probably have to move them down a pot size. I don't grow as many phals, but usually failure to thrive for phals (in my hands) is temperature related. I've heard some vendors say that they will just plain stop growing below 60F, and take months to start up again. If so, I have a few hundred phals that got down into the very low 40s that aren't going to be doing much for me... Most of them are in spike though. Also, what do healthy phal roots look like? Firm and white (or green), usually with green or red tips. Firm is the important part. They should be turgid and round in cross-section. Hard and flat is not good... Soft and mushy you already know isn't good... Sometimes you will see a constriction (usually at a bend, which is ok). Sometimes a short expanse of 'thread-like' connection between the firm white parts. That is a section of root that only has the central core remaining. Not usually the best sign, I tend to clip those roots back and hope that they will branch. Incidentally, this paph is one hell of a tough plant. When I first got it, I was - unwittingly, of course - feeding it fertilizer at three times the recommended strength. All of my other plants croaked immediately, but this one stuck around. They are tougher than most people give them credit for. They tolerate me pretty well, and that says something. Rob -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#15
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Joe: You didn't say where you were, or whether you were growing indoors or
out. Up north where Ray is, it's probably already cool by now, or at least cooler than down here in South Florida, and I'm sure his humidity is substantially lower than ours But in my neck of the woods, that plastic bag trick does little good and can do a lot of harm. If the humidity is already 80% or more [which ours generally is], it doesn't need to be raised; and if the temp is already 85F or more [which ours generally is], it really shouldn't be raised [which the plastic bag will do] -- orchids really don't like to be steamed. With the exception of cutting the one active root on the Phal, you did exactly what I would've done in the same situation. Good growing, -- Kenni Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com "Ray" wrote in message ... In the case of the paph, as the roots were in good shape, treat it normally. The phals, not having a significant root system, should be kept warm, and VERY humid to prevent desiccation while it grows enough roots to support the moisture uptake needs. You might consider putting a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to act as a mini-greenhouse. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! . "Joe" wrote in message ... Okay, I have a Paph. Papa Rohl that bloomed for me last year at about this time. It seems to have continued to grow, but no bloom yet. Seeing that the bark was black and kind of nasty/slimy looking, I repotted it into some fresh bark. The roots were firm and fuzzy, but hadn't grown much. I did the same thing with a Phal. This plant has been more or less dormant for about a year. When I took it out of the pot, most of the roots seemed dead. I cut them off and cut back the one "active" root to about six inches. It was green and succulent. I put them both back into the same pots they were in. What should I do now with these plants? Any help would be appreciated. |
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