Hi all:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a few
weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got "lost".

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes from
the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod and put
into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening outside.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking for
phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Thanks

Dada

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

Thanks :-)

Dada

"Aaron Hicks" wrote in message
...

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ

Thanks :-)

Dada

"Aaron Hicks" wrote in message
...

"Dada" spaketh thusly:

Just posting a follow-up on the earlier question on phal pollination a
few weeks back. I had posted a few days back but it seems to have got
"lost".

I was hoping someone else might reply to this, since I'm no green
capsule guy, but (as always!) I am happy to spout off on things about
which I know nothing, so here goes!

I have a couple of questions to ask. I was wondering how long it takes
from the time seeds (mature embryos?!!) are removed from the green pod
and put into media to the time they generally become ready for hardening
outside.

I know little about green capsules (other than how to do them),
but if you mean green caps for phals- you're looking at about 180 days.
Some people have very sophistcated techniques involving the rate of growth
or the yellowing of the capsule or the formation of certain curvatures
within the normally straight sutures between the... I forget what they're
called, the segments of the capsule that give orchids their 3-axis
symmetry.

Naturally, this is variable, but 180 days is a starting point.

Also which media(s) would be best for mother/intermediate/final flasking
for phals. I did a couple of crosses and I think they should be ready for
flasking in a couple of months.

Again not my forte since I don't get many phal seeds with which to
work, but PhytoTech P668 was optimized around the genus Phalaenopsis by
Dr. Ken Torres when he was back at Sigma (then called P-6668). For
replate, PhytoTech O156 (the old Sigma P-1056) works fine. However,
although both of these formulae are relatively dilute, watering them down
to 70% of label strength works much better. Add ~8.5 grams of the A111
agar from PhytoTech, and you're in business.

For those that are interested, P668 and its brethren are very
similar to half strength M&S salt mix, which was optimized around
Nicotiana tabacum, or common tobacco. It in turn is descended indirectly
from the White's medium, but Toshio Murashige and Folke Skoog (the "M and
S" in M&S) found out that higher nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate
works wonders for tobacco in vitro. Shortly after that, they started
running some relatively sophisticated plant nutrition tests to determine
the optimal concentration of other components. From this, we got M&S (or
simply MS) salt base.

However, it's too damned hot for most plants, so it may be doped
down to 1/2 strength for orchids- which, in turn, is still too hot for
most orchids. Using it at about 70-80% strength is much better,
particularly for species with small roots. People who grow carnivorous
plants sometimes use orchid media at 1/2 strength to bring M&S salt mix
down to 1/4 of its original strength. We make our own mix (OspEx1.0) that
is a derivation of O156 that has reduced osmotic strength but has better
nutrition for those parts of the medium that should NOT be reduced.

The address in the header is not valid. Send no e-mail there.

-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ