Around 3 years ago we bought a nice paphio, in flower. After flowering
it grew a new main bract and two new ones below the original one. All
are now apparently mature, the plant has however not flowered again and
is now growing a new bract off to the side.

Any suggestions how to get it to flower again? I have tried feeding it
flowering rather than growth medium but it continues to grow. Should I
simply water it for a while?

No problems flowering the immediately adjacent phal or Cambria.

Peter

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maybe it needs a bit of cold to flower.

Marios Giannakoulias wrote:

maybe it needs a bit of cold to flower.

Ah, hadn't heard that one. My bet would have been it wasn't warm enough.
Cold could be arranged, I live in Scotland ;-) the question is what
minimum temperature? The cymbidium I know I can leave outside in the
summer until the overnight temp falls below 8C. Any idea for the paph?

Peter
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The temp issue can be at least partially answered if you tell us whether it
has solid green leaves, or variegated/mottled leaves. The latter tend to be
warm-growers, and exposure to cold would not help. The former can go either
way, but many of them tend to like cool. How cool is beyond me, as we don't
try to grow anything cool-ish here, but other posters probably do.

I am also assuming that by "bract" you mean actual new growths on the plant,
rather than some type of activity on the flower stem that was in bloom when
you bought the plant? Good growing, Kenni

"Peter Ashby" wrote in message
uk...
Around 3 years ago we bought a nice paphio, in flower. After flowering
it grew a new main bract and two new ones below the original one. All
are now apparently mature, the plant has however not flowered again and
is now growing a new bract off to the side.

Any suggestions how to get it to flower again? I have tried feeding it
flowering rather than growth medium but it continues to grow. Should I
simply water it for a while?

No problems flowering the immediately adjacent phal or Cambria.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Kenni Judd wrote:


"Peter Ashby" wrote in message
uk...
Around 3 years ago we bought a nice paphio, in flower. After flowering
it grew a new main bract and two new ones below the original one. All
are now apparently mature, the plant has however not flowered again and
is now growing a new bract off to the side.

Any suggestions how to get it to flower again? I have tried feeding it
flowering rather than growth medium but it continues to grow. Should I
simply water it for a while?

No problems flowering the immediately adjacent phal or Cambria.

The temp issue can be at least partially answered if you tell us whether it
has solid green leaves, or variegated/mottled leaves. The latter tend to be
warm-growers, and exposure to cold would not help. The former can go either
way, but many of them tend to like cool. How cool is beyond me, as we don't
try to grow anything cool-ish here, but other posters probably do.

Solid green leaves. This plant sits just in front of the east facing
single glazed window beside the front door. I must get a max/min
thermometer to see what the temp actually falls to just there overnight,
but it was -4C outside overnight and the heating was off between 11pm
and 7am. We heat the house to 18C during the day.

Do paphs need a difference between day and night temps all the time? or
would putting the plant outside during summer/autumn achieve the result?

I am also assuming that by "bract" you mean actual new growths on the plant,
rather than some type of activity on the flower stem that was in bloom when
you bought the plant? Good growing, Kenni

Yes, sorry for the lose terminology, they are new growths. The flower
stem is long dead. The main new growth is now at least as big as the one
that flowered.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
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I am afraid that I can't really help you any further -- we have a very hot
environment and therefore just avoid the solid-green-leafed Paphs
altogether. [It's too hot here for Vuyl. Cambria, too.] Kenni

The temp issue can be at least partially answered if you tell us whether
it
has solid green leaves, or variegated/mottled leaves. The latter tend to
be
warm-growers, and exposure to cold would not help. The former can go
either
way, but many of them tend to like cool. How cool is beyond me, as we
don't
try to grow anything cool-ish here, but other posters probably do.

Solid green leaves. This plant sits just in front of the east facing
single glazed window beside the front door. I must get a max/min
thermometer to see what the temp actually falls to just there overnight,
but it was -4C outside overnight and the heating was off between 11pm
and 7am. We heat the house to 18C during the day.

Do paphs need a difference between day and night temps all the time? or
would putting the plant outside during summer/autumn achieve the result?

I am also assuming that by "bract" you mean actual new growths on the
plant,
rather than some type of activity on the flower stem that was in bloom
when
you bought the plant? Good growing, Kenni

Yes, sorry for the lose terminology, they are new growths. The flower
stem is long dead. The main new growth is now at least as big as the one
that flowered.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

As temperature is probably not an issue, I can only offer some general
reasons a plant might not bloom. I urge you to consider these, not just
react and change them.

1) Insufficient light
2) Insufficient nutrition
3) Too much nitrogen in the fertilizer used.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Peter Ashby" wrote in message
k...
Kenni Judd wrote:


"Peter Ashby" wrote in message
uk...
Around 3 years ago we bought a nice paphio, in flower. After flowering
it grew a new main bract and two new ones below the original one. All
are now apparently mature, the plant has however not flowered again and
is now growing a new bract off to the side.

Any suggestions how to get it to flower again? I have tried feeding it
flowering rather than growth medium but it continues to grow. Should I
simply water it for a while?

No problems flowering the immediately adjacent phal or Cambria.

The temp issue can be at least partially answered if you tell us whether
it
has solid green leaves, or variegated/mottled leaves. The latter tend to
be
warm-growers, and exposure to cold would not help. The former can go
either
way, but many of them tend to like cool. How cool is beyond me, as we
don't
try to grow anything cool-ish here, but other posters probably do.

Solid green leaves. This plant sits just in front of the east facing
single glazed window beside the front door. I must get a max/min
thermometer to see what the temp actually falls to just there overnight,
but it was -4C outside overnight and the heating was off between 11pm
and 7am. We heat the house to 18C during the day.

Do paphs need a difference between day and night temps all the time? or
would putting the plant outside during summer/autumn achieve the result?

I am also assuming that by "bract" you mean actual new growths on the
plant,
rather than some type of activity on the flower stem that was in bloom
when
you bought the plant? Good growing, Kenni

Yes, sorry for the lose terminology, they are new growths. The flower
stem is long dead. The main new growth is now at least as big as the one
that flowered.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

I tend to agree with RayB on this one
Lady Slipper orchids are not heavy feeders; however, they also do not have any pseudobulbs in which to hold reserves. It is up to you to feed it regularly with a WEAK fertilizer. YOu also need to flush fertilizer from the pot by drenching with water from time to time. Too much fertilizer will damage the plants, so the best practice is to fertilize lightly.

True, and though I always keep an eye out for aphids on new growth and
especially on buds, I've noticed very little activity... thus my
detergent application on those Dendrobiums (and then assuming the ants
were attracted to the soapy solution)...

...and though I know the ants, themselves, aren't a problem with
orchids, I do know they can be carriers of other problems within their
trails...

So, as I mentioned, I'll see how well my application does in the next
few days... and, if needed, I'll apply bait in the direct area of the
pots while continuing with my household applications on the surrounding
areas.

Thanks, again...

John