I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new
spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out
multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had a
name tag.

Dusty,

If someone has a good answer I'd like to hear it. From what I understand,
it's in the breeding.

Diana

"Dusty" wrote in message
. 33.102...
I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new
spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new
and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out
multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had
a
name tag.

I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't from heavy fertilization. I have a few
phals that have double spikes but one I'm watching with anticipation has two
new spikes with spikes coming off them. I keep them pretty well fertilized
with compost tea and fish/ kelp mixes when they are outside and growing but
switch to a synthetic blend when I bring them in for the winter.


"Dusty" wrote in message
. 33.102...
I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new
spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new
and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out
multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had
a
name tag.

I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control) for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni


"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't from heavy fertilization. I have a few
phals that have double spikes but one I'm watching with anticipation has
two new spikes with spikes coming off them. I keep them pretty well
fertilized with compost tea and fish/ kelp mixes when they are outside and
growing but switch to a synthetic blend when I bring them in for the
winter.


"Dusty" wrote in message
. 33.102...
I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new
spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new
and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out
multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had
a
name tag.

Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control) for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the mid
forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in about mid
summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and they are in
spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that warm temps
would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when temps were
well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the cooler spring
weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that
the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control)
for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or
two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant
to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

Google Yin-Tung Wang of Texas A&M. Eventually you'll get to a list of his
articles on phalaenopsis. They explain all.

K Barrett

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the
mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in
about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and
they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that
warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when
temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the
cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that
works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that
the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control)
for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or
two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant
to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

There are some Phals (mostly but not all Dtps, IIRC) which just naturally
bloom in the warm season. AFAIK, no one knows what triggers these to
initiate spikes -- my _guess_ would be day length. And then there's the
first rule about Orchids -- which is that all the other rules have
exceptions G. And finally, I personally think that once a plant reaches
some point of growth (well past first maturity), it WILL find some way to
bloom even in the wrong conditions. But for the most part, Phals kept
really warm don't bloom. Kenni

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the
mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in
about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and
they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that
warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when
temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the
cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that
works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that
the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control)
for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or
two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant
to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

Thanks. It does explain all!
Now I have to rethink my potting method and figure out how to calculate
fertilizer ratio of 200 ppm.

"K Barrett" wrote in message
...
Google Yin-Tung Wang of Texas A&M. Eventually you'll get to a list of his
articles on phalaenopsis. They explain all.

K Barrett

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the
mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in
about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and
they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that
warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when
temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the
cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that
works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is
that the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature
control) for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike
or two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant
to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

On top of that many many years ago Gavino Rotor wrote an article in the AOS
Bulletin about growing phalaenopsis standing in water, sort of like how we
grow phrags these days. Growth was phenomenal. Talk about rethinking....

K Barrett

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
t...
Thanks. It does explain all!
Now I have to rethink my potting method and figure out how to calculate
fertilizer ratio of 200 ppm.

"K Barrett" wrote in message
...
Google Yin-Tung Wang of Texas A&M. Eventually you'll get to a list of
his articles on phalaenopsis. They explain all.

K Barrett

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the
mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in
about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them
and they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware
that warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this
summer when temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes
started during the cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a
few and see how that works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is
that the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature
control) for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike
or two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the
plant to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni

HD here in Dallas Ttx frequently carries a couple that bloom on multiple
spikes and for long periods of time.

Baldan's Kaleidoscope Golden Treasure
(http://home.roadrunner.com/~katkom/H...Treasure2.html
)

and another white an purple no name
(http://home.roadrunner.com/~katkom/H...al%20NoId.html
, along wit h Lowes)



"Dusty" wrote in message
. 33.102...
I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new
spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new
and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out
multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had
a
name tag.

"BruceM" wrote in
:

HD here in Dallas Ttx frequently carries a couple that bloom on
multiple spikes and for long periods of time.

Baldan's Kaleidoscope Golden Treasure
(http://home.roadrunner.com/
~katkom/Home/Orchids/slides/BaldansKaleidos
copeGoldenTreasure2.html
)

and another white an purple no name
(http://home.roadrunner.com/~katkom/H...lides/Pot%204%
20Phal%
20NoId.html , along wit h Lowes)



"Dusty" wrote in message
. 33.102...
I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on
Phals
for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2
new spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on
one new and
one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put
out multi spikes?
By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that
had a
name tag.




A couple now and then I can see but this was two racks of four shelves
and every one had at least two spikes. As others have mentioned these
where most likely forced to bloom in this way. As for me I rather see my
plants bloom every year than to hold them back for years to get multible
spikes.

Grow well and bloom magnificently