So I have this phal schilleriana seedling, that has only one leaf left, and
now it is in spike. Should I let it spike or not? The only reason why I am
even considering letting it spike is that I do not know whether it is
capable of growing more leaves from its crown or not, and if it is not, then
maybe it will spike and grow a keiki on the spike? I do not have any
evidence of crown rot, but I have no evidence of new leaves from the crown
either (it has been a one-leaf plant since March). This is the phal that I
have been meaning to put into a sphag'n'bag cure, but have not gotten around
to yet -- it has not been getting any worse nor any better since March as
far as I can tell. I assume that the spiking is a last attempt at survival,
but if I let it spike and it does not keiki, will it be more likely to die
than if I cut the emerging spike?

Joanna

Buy a small tube of keiki paste. It works for me about 80-90% of the time. I
think it's well worth it for small numbers or to save a valuable plant. I
got mine from the Supreme Commander in CA (I think he's now in WA). I just
use a little every year and keep it in the frig. Remove the shield from the
3rd bud up from the bottom, apply a small amount of paste, and you should
notice a swelling of the bud within 1-2 weeks. You can have a keiki ready to
remove in 3-6mo depending on the plant. I have saved a few plants this way
as the parent plant died soon after I removed the keiki. It's so easy I
don't know why any phal fanatic doesn't use it routinely. I haven't tried it
on any other genera but I might this winter. Good luck.
Gary

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:x41jf.1689$3x2.1155@trnddc07...
So I have this phal schilleriana seedling, that has only one leaf left,
and
now it is in spike. Should I let it spike or not? The only reason why I am
even considering letting it spike is that I do not know whether it is
capable of growing more leaves from its crown or not, and if it is not,
then
maybe it will spike and grow a keiki on the spike? I do not have any
evidence of crown rot, but I have no evidence of new leaves from the crown
either (it has been a one-leaf plant since March). This is the phal that I
have been meaning to put into a sphag'n'bag cure, but have not gotten
around
to yet -- it has not been getting any worse nor any better since March as
far as I can tell. I assume that the spiking is a last attempt at
survival,
but if I let it spike and it does not keiki, will it be more likely to die
than if I cut the emerging spike?

Joanna

I've wanted to try it on paphs. I didn't know the Supreme Commander had
moved. Thanks for the info.

K Barrett

V_coerulea wrote:
Buy a small tube of keiki paste. It works for me about 80-90% of the time. I
think it's well worth it for small numbers or to save a valuable plant. I
got mine from the Supreme Commander in CA (I think he's now in WA). I just
use a little every year and keep it in the frig. Remove the shield from the
3rd bud up from the bottom, apply a small amount of paste, and you should
notice a swelling of the bud within 1-2 weeks. You can have a keiki ready to
remove in 3-6mo depending on the plant. I have saved a few plants this way
as the parent plant died soon after I removed the keiki. It's so easy I
don't know why any phal fanatic doesn't use it routinely. I haven't tried it
on any other genera but I might this winter. Good luck.
Gary

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:x41jf.1689$3x2.1155@trnddc07...

So I have this phal schilleriana seedling, that has only one leaf left,
and
now it is in spike. Should I let it spike or not? The only reason why I am
even considering letting it spike is that I do not know whether it is
capable of growing more leaves from its crown or not, and if it is not,
then
maybe it will spike and grow a keiki on the spike? I do not have any
evidence of crown rot, but I have no evidence of new leaves from the crown
either (it has been a one-leaf plant since March). This is the phal that I
have been meaning to put into a sphag'n'bag cure, but have not gotten
around
to yet -- it has not been getting any worse nor any better since March as
far as I can tell. I assume that the spiking is a last attempt at
survival,
but if I let it spike and it does not keiki, will it be more likely to die
than if I cut the emerging spike?

Joanna

My experience with schillerianas is that they like it warm in
winter--warmer than most phals. (My experience is based on two previous
winter kills.) I keep mine on the top rack of a plant stand in my
growing room. At the moment, I've got one plant with a bloom spike and
a spike with kiki on it (which looks odd--a 7" spike ending in a kiki
with 3 leaves and a 3-inch root); the other plant has just a spike.

Gary,
Thanks for the idea. I think I will try it. If it fails with this plant, I
can then try it on another one. Might be fun.

Thanks,
Joanna

"V_coerulea" wrote in message
news
Buy a small tube of keiki paste. It works for me about 80-90% of the time.
I
think it's well worth it for small numbers or to save a valuable plant. I
got mine from the Supreme Commander in CA (I think he's now in WA). I just
use a little every year and keep it in the frig. Remove the shield from
the
3rd bud up from the bottom, apply a small amount of paste, and you should
notice a swelling of the bud within 1-2 weeks. You can have a keiki ready
to
remove in 3-6mo depending on the plant. I have saved a few plants this way
as the parent plant died soon after I removed the keiki. It's so easy I
don't know why any phal fanatic doesn't use it routinely. I haven't tried
it
on any other genera but I might this winter. Good luck.
Gary

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:x41jf.1689$3x2.1155@trnddc07...
So I have this phal schilleriana seedling, that has only one leaf left,
and
now it is in spike. Should I let it spike or not? The only reason why I
am
even considering letting it spike is that I do not know whether it is
capable of growing more leaves from its crown or not, and if it is not,
then
maybe it will spike and grow a keiki on the spike? I do not have any
evidence of crown rot, but I have no evidence of new leaves from the
crown
either (it has been a one-leaf plant since March). This is the phal that
I
have been meaning to put into a sphag'n'bag cure, but have not gotten
around
to yet -- it has not been getting any worse nor any better since March
as
far as I can tell. I assume that the spiking is a last attempt at
survival,
but if I let it spike and it does not keiki, will it be more likely to
die
than if I cut the emerging spike?

Joanna

OrchidKitty,

Yup, I heard this too, but unfortunately only after I got this schilleriana
to the stage it is now in. And yes, I think the winter temp was most likely
the culprit. I will try to be more careful in the future with schilleriana
and temps -- provided this one makes it somehow or keikis or I get another.

Thanks,
Joanna

"OrchidKitty" wrote in message
ups.com...
My experience with schillerianas is that they like it warm in
winter--warmer than most phals. (My experience is based on two previous
winter kills.) I keep mine on the top rack of a plant stand in my
growing room. At the moment, I've got one plant with a bloom spike and
a spike with kiki on it (which looks odd--a 7" spike ending in a kiki
with 3 leaves and a 3-inch root); the other plant has just a spike.

What min temp was you keeping the schilleriana?
Thanks Keith
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:bQtjf.2392$ob7.532@trnddc04...
OrchidKitty,

Yup, I heard this too, but unfortunately only after I got this
schilleriana
to the stage it is now in. And yes, I think the winter temp was most
likely
the culprit. I will try to be more careful in the future with schilleriana
and temps -- provided this one makes it somehow or keikis or I get
another.

Thanks,
Joanna

"OrchidKitty" wrote in message
ups.com...
My experience with schillerianas is that they like it warm in
winter--warmer than most phals. (My experience is based on two previous
winter kills.) I keep mine on the top rack of a plant stand in my
growing room. At the moment, I've got one plant with a bloom spike and
a spike with kiki on it (which looks odd--a 7" spike ending in a kiki
with 3 leaves and a 3-inch root); the other plant has just a spike.

On Thu, 01 Dec 2005 17:50:18 GMT in keith ;-) wrote:
What min temp was you keeping the schilleriana?

What temps would you suggest?
My schilleriana managed to attract the spider mites and it was moved
over to an aquarium/terrarium for CO2 treatment and isolation.
The terrarium is in a cooler part of the house and has been
going down to 58F. I'm wondering if I should move it to a
warmer spot in the house.


--
Chris Dukes
Suspicion breeds confidence -- Brazil

"?" wrote in message
rg...
On Thu, 01 Dec 2005 17:50:18 GMT in
keith ;-)
wrote:
What min temp was you keeping the schilleriana?

What temps would you suggest?
My schilleriana managed to attract the spider mites and it was moved
over to an aquarium/terrarium for CO2 treatment and isolation.
The terrarium is in a cooler part of the house and has been
going down to 58F. I'm wondering if I should move it to a
warmer spot in the house.


--
Chris Dukes
Suspicion breeds confidence -- Brazil

Hi ,I was asking because I have one in spike,I have only had it for about 3
months.So don't yet no whether or not it will thrive in my conditions,with
15 c /59f min.This is my min,so if it don't it don't!Phals (warm
growing)like 60/65 min,with a short spell below this to initiate
flowering.So mine and your temps may be a little on the low side.How long
have you had yours?
Thanks Keith

On Thu, 01 Dec 2005 20:44:57 GMT in keith ;-) wrote:


Hi ,I was asking because I have one in spike,I have only had it for about 3
months.So don't yet no whether or not it will thrive in my conditions,with
15 c /59f min.This is my min,so if it don't it don't!Phals (warm
growing)like 60/65 min,with a short spell below this to initiate
flowering.So mine and your temps may be a little on the low side.How long
have you had yours?

Since the saturday of the previous C&H sale.



--
Chris Dukes
Suspicion breeds confidence -- Brazil

Well, I've killed schillerianas at what I'm guessing was the upper 50s,
so I try to keep their nightly low at 64 degrees.

BTW, even a small room can have cold spots and hot spots. For example,
my growing area is above an attached garage, so the temperature at
floor level is considerably cooler than five feet above it, especially
when the temperatures are sub zero. Similarly, the side of the room
with the cast-iron steam radiator (which belches steam so I'll never
get it fixed) is warmer than the other side. Windows can be a source of
cold drafts too. If your plant is in front of a window, move it back
from the glass at night, or install blinds as a temperature barrier and
lower them at night. Venetian blinds have worked fine for me.

One of the best inexpensive investments you can make is to buy several
inexpensive thermometers and set them around your growing area. You
might be surprised at the different readings you'll get. A humidity
gauge is a good investment too.

"OrchidKitty" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, I've killed schillerianas at what I'm guessing was the upper 50s,
so I try to keep their nightly low at 64 degrees.

BTW, even a small room can have cold spots and hot spots. For example,
my growing area is above an attached garage, so the temperature at
floor level is considerably cooler than five feet above it, especially
when the temperatures are sub zero. Similarly, the side of the room
with the cast-iron steam radiator (which belches steam so I'll never
get it fixed) is warmer than the other side. Windows can be a source of
cold drafts too. If your plant is in front of a window, move it back
from the glass at night, or install blinds as a temperature barrier and
lower them at night. Venetian blinds have worked fine for me.

One of the best inexpensive investments you can make is to buy several
inexpensive thermometers and set them around your growing area. You
might be surprised at the different readings you'll get. A humidity
gauge is a good investment too.

I found it incredibly hard work & frustrating to grow in the home.Especially
controlling humidity,watering,spraying & knocking plants over etc.So had the
privilege in being able to have a greenhouse.I am in my second winter
now,the only disadvantage I can think of is the heating cost of running the
greenhouse.It is nice to be able to let loose with the watering and not
worry about spillage!A humidity dial & min/max thermometer are a must,these
should be the first things you buy when growing orchids or any plants for
that matter.
Thanks Keith

Ah, well if it can't stand temps in the upper 50s, no wonder my schilli is
not doing well. It was near a window in the old apartment, and I am sure it
got quite a bit cooler there -- I know that in the new condo, one of the two
growing areas got down to the low 50s a few nights. All of my other Phals
seem much more hardy, and thus able to withstand low 50s. I am beginning to
think that if this schilleriana does not make it -- either as this plant or
as a keiki -- I will try to avoid buying another shilleriana, since they are
such wimps. ;-) It's a shame though, since their flowers and leaves are
gorgeous.

By the way, I did place an order for the keiki paste, so we shall see what
comes out of that.

Joanna

"OrchidKitty" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, I've killed schillerianas at what I'm guessing was the upper 50s,
so I try to keep their nightly low at 64 degrees.

BTW, even a small room can have cold spots and hot spots. For example,
my growing area is above an attached garage, so the temperature at
floor level is considerably cooler than five feet above it, especially
when the temperatures are sub zero. Similarly, the side of the room
with the cast-iron steam radiator (which belches steam so I'll never
get it fixed) is warmer than the other side. Windows can be a source of
cold drafts too. If your plant is in front of a window, move it back
from the glass at night, or install blinds as a temperature barrier and
lower them at night. Venetian blinds have worked fine for me.

One of the best inexpensive investments you can make is to buy several
inexpensive thermometers and set them around your growing area. You
might be surprised at the different readings you'll get. A humidity
gauge is a good investment too.

Keiki paste on paphs??? If this works, I'M IN!!!

I've used it with about the same success as Tennis but only on phals.

Garland



"K Barrett" wrote in message
...
I've wanted to try it on paphs. I didn't know the Supreme Commander had
moved. Thanks for the info.

K Barrett

V_coerulea wrote:
Buy a small tube of keiki paste. It works for me about 80-90% of the
time. I think it's well worth it for small numbers or to save a valuable
plant. I got mine from the Supreme Commander in CA (I think he's now in
WA). I just use a little every year and keep it in the frig. Remove the
shield from the 3rd bud up from the bottom, apply a small amount of
paste, and you should notice a swelling of the bud within 1-2 weeks. You
can have a keiki ready to remove in 3-6mo depending on the plant. I have
saved a few plants this way as the parent plant died soon after I removed
the keiki. It's so easy I don't know why any phal fanatic doesn't use it
routinely. I haven't tried it on any other genera but I might this
winter. Good luck.
Gary

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:x41jf.1689$3x2.1155@trnddc07...

So I have this phal schilleriana seedling, that has only one leaf left,
and
now it is in spike. Should I let it spike or not? The only reason why I
am
even considering letting it spike is that I do not know whether it is
capable of growing more leaves from its crown or not, and if it is not,
then
maybe it will spike and grow a keiki on the spike? I do not have any
evidence of crown rot, but I have no evidence of new leaves from the
crown
either (it has been a one-leaf plant since March). This is the phal that
I
have been meaning to put into a sphag'n'bag cure, but have not gotten
around
to yet -- it has not been getting any worse nor any better since March as
far as I can tell. I assume that the spiking is a last attempt at
survival,
but if I let it spike and it does not keiki, will it be more likely to
die
than if I cut the emerging spike?

Joanna

Joanna: I'm not a Phal grower, but I've seen similar problems with species
in other genera. I'm not sure that what you've read so far warrants giving
up on the species itself, but if you decide to, look for hybrids with a
similar parent -- unless you're a species purist.

For example, Onc. [Psychopsis?] papilio is "difficult" here (we're too
hot), but some of its offspring, that look much the same when in flower, do
quite well. We don't have any trouble with O. Kalihi or O. Butterfly, and
most people couldn't tell either from straight O. papilio without the label.

So perhaps it would help to ask your favorite Phal supplier for a hybrid
that closely resembles P. schilleriana. Kenni



"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:tk6kf.3642$H84.1706@trnddc04...
Ah, well if it can't stand temps in the upper 50s, no wonder my schilli is
not doing well. It was near a window in the old apartment, and I am sure
it
got quite a bit cooler there -- I know that in the new condo, one of the
two
growing areas got down to the low 50s a few nights. All of my other Phals
seem much more hardy, and thus able to withstand low 50s. I am beginning
to
think that if this schilleriana does not make it -- either as this plant
or
as a keiki -- I will try to avoid buying another shilleriana, since they
are
such wimps. ;-) It's a shame though, since their flowers and leaves are
gorgeous.

By the way, I did place an order for the keiki paste, so we shall see what
comes out of that.

Joanna

"OrchidKitty" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, I've killed schillerianas at what I'm guessing was the upper 50s,
so I try to keep their nightly low at 64 degrees.

BTW, even a small room can have cold spots and hot spots. For example,
my growing area is above an attached garage, so the temperature at
floor level is considerably cooler than five feet above it, especially
when the temperatures are sub zero. Similarly, the side of the room
with the cast-iron steam radiator (which belches steam so I'll never
get it fixed) is warmer than the other side. Windows can be a source of
cold drafts too. If your plant is in front of a window, move it back
from the glass at night, or install blinds as a temperature barrier and
lower them at night. Venetian blinds have worked fine for me.

One of the best inexpensive investments you can make is to buy several
inexpensive thermometers and set them around your growing area. You
might be surprised at the different readings you'll get. A humidity
gauge is a good investment too.