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#1
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Help...renovating shade area
I plan to try to renovate the shady area of my lawn in late August. I'd
appreciate suggestions. Here's the situation...I'm in a borderline Mason-Dixon climate where most nothern grasses don't do well and turf-type tall fescue is the main recommended grass. However, I have irrigation (plenty of free water) and have considered bluegrass or other finer fescues. My soil seems too compacted and poor in some spots. The current grass is ok...just too thin. Weeds are only about 1%. Perhaps I should get my biggest tree thinned out a bit for it's health and to get more light on the yard. I would love help getting a plan of action together. Thanks. HtH |
#2
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Help...renovating shade area
"Heidi the Horrible" wrote:
I plan to try to renovate the shady area of my lawn in late August. I'd appreciate suggestions. Here's the situation...I'm in a borderline Mason-Dixon climate where most nothern grasses don't do well and turf-type tall fescue is the main recommended grass. However, I have irrigation (plenty of free water) and have considered bluegrass or other finer fescues. My soil seems too compacted and poor in some spots. The current grass is ok...just too thin. Weeds are only about 1%. Perhaps I should get my biggest tree thinned out a bit for it's health and to get more light on the yard. I would love help getting a plan of action together. Thanks. HtH How many sg ft are you talking about in the shade area's, Heidi? -- Here's my favorite liberal. http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0424216/ |
#3
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Help...renovating shade area
How many sg ft are you talking about in the shade area's, Heidi?
About 1000 to 1500 I would guess. HtH |
#4
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Help...renovating shade area
"Heidi the Horrible" wrote:
How many sg ft are you talking about in the shade area's, Heidi? About 1000 to 1500 I would guess. HtH That's about the same size shade area I battle with here in Ohio. I brought in decent topsoil, added some organics and seed it twice a year with a rye/fine fescue blend. I use 10-18-10 fertilizer there and -never- put pre-emergent down. You mentioned you have a free water source, I water my shade area at least 1 to 2 inches per week. It's a never ending battle, and pruning your tree as you suggested would help. If all else fails, consider replacing the turf with shade tolerant ground covers. -- Here's my favorite liberal. http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0424216/ |
#5
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Help...renovating shade area
That's about the same size shade area I battle with here in Ohio. I brought in decent topsoil, added some organics and seed it twice a year with a rye/fine fescue blend. I use 10-18-10 fertilizer there and -never- put pre-emergent down. What "organics" would you put down ? Would a rye/fine fescue blend survive here ? I'm about the same climate as extreme southern Ohio...say Cincinati or Louisville. Bermuda grows here in the sun...but barely. Thanks. HtH |
#6
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Help...renovating shade area
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#7
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Help...renovating shade area
"Heidi the Horrible" wrote:
That's about the same size shade area I battle with here in Ohio. I brought in decent topsoil, added some organics and seed it twice a year with a rye/fine fescue blend. I use 10-18-10 fertilizer there and -never- put pre-emergent down. What "organics" would you put down ? I added aged manure and bails of peat moss..shallow tilled it in. Would a rye/fine fescue blend survive here ? I'm about the same climate as extreme southern Ohio...say Cincinati or Louisville. Bermuda grows here in the sun...but barely. I'd try it..with the shade and your irrigation the soil temp should be lowered enough to allow it. Thanks. HtH |
#8
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Help...renovating shade area
Steveo wrote:
(Chet Hayes) wrote: added some organics and seed it twice a year with a rye/fine fescue blend. I use 10-18-10 fertilizer there and -never- put pre-emergent down. Tall fescue is not suited to shade areas. Thanks for the newsflash. What do you trade? g |
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