What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

"Herb and Eneva" wrote in message
...
What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

On the last day of the season that you use your lawnmower, make sure you run
it until all of the gas is used up (gas reservoir is empty). Unplug the
spark plug wire and store the mower. Change the oil in the spring AFTER you
cut your lawn for the first time so the oil will be hotter and thinner and
therefore drain better. At the same time, check/replace air filter, spark
plugs, blade, etc.

I've done this for many years in the cold northern climate where I live and
have never had any problems. Usually starts in spring on the first or
second pull.

Herb and Eneva wrote:

What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

I address that problem by mowing my yard every week. You see, I plant
winter rye to keep from having a mud pit.

If you don't want to work all winter, then do a tune-up in the Fall and
add some stabilizer to the gas. People debate whether the stabilizer
does any good, but I've never seen anyone claim that it hurts.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On Aug 19, 6:45*am, (Herb and Eneva) wrote:
* What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

I prefer to change oil as a part of the winterizing, that includes
filling up the gas tank, sharpening the blades, replacing the spark
plug, fogging the engine, checking/replacing the air filter, cleaning
the lawn mower. Then there will be very little chance that I may
forget to change the oil when spring comes.

The alternative is to simply fill up the gas tank for winterizing and
then do all the other tasks in the spring. I don't like this
alternative because after getting stuck inside the house for the
entire winter, I much prefer to start doing yard work right away when
spring comes instead of doing all those chores first.

The down side of doing all those chores during winterizing is that the
date of the "last mow" may be in late Fall, and the temperature may be
falling. Cleaning the lawn mower with cold water can numb the
fingers. Sharpening the cold steel blades can also numb the fingers
if the work area is not heated. Therefore, we need to do the "last
mow" earlier rather than later.

I have been using this approach for the last 3 years. I have no
problem with the lawn mower or other small engine equipments, and I
can start the lawn mower in the first pull. Before that, I didn't
standardize on one approach and tried various approaches (like doing
some in the Fall and the rest in Spring). The result was not pretty
because I tend to be forgotful and get confused easily. This might
have something to do with _me_ instead of any problem with the
approach that I tried. Knowing who I am, I prefer to stick with a
standardized approach that does all those chores in one setting.

Jay Chan

On Aug 19, 1:16*pm, Jay Chan wrote:
On Aug 19, 6:45*am, (Herb and Eneva) wrote:

* What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

I prefer to change oil as a part of the winterizing, that includes
filling up the gas tank, sharpening the blades, replacing the spark
plug, fogging the engine, checking/replacing the air filter, cleaning
the lawn mower. *Then there will be very little chance that I may
forget to change the oil when spring comes.


It also gets the old oil, that can have nasty stuff, like water in it,
out and leaves fresh clean oil in contact with the metal for the
winter.

Regarding gas, there are 3 schools of thought on this:

1 - RTFM and do what it says, which applies to oil and the other
issues as well

2 - Add stablilizer, fill and make sure it runs long enough to fill
the carb. Easiest way to do this is to just add the stabilizer to the
last can of gas you buy near the end of the season. The thinking to
this approach is that some mowers have gaskets which may dry out
without gas and then leak later.

3 - Run it dry

Fogging the engine is a good idea. And if it's a rider with a
battery, put a battery tender on the battery or else be prepared to
buy a new battery every year or two.




The alternative is to simply fill up the gas tank for winterizing and
then do all the other tasks in the spring. *I don't like this
alternative because after getting stuck inside the house for the
entire winter, I much prefer to start doing yard work right away when
spring comes instead of doing all those chores first.

The down side of doing all those chores during winterizing is that the
date of the "last mow" may be in late Fall, and the temperature may be
falling. *Cleaning the lawn mower with cold water can numb the
fingers. *Sharpening the cold steel blades can also numb the fingers
if the work area is not heated. *Therefore, we need to do the "last
mow" earlier rather than later.

I have been using this approach for the last 3 years. *I have no
problem with the lawn mower or other small engine equipments, and I
can start the lawn mower in the first pull. *Before that, I didn't
standardize on one approach and tried various approaches (like doing
some in the Fall and the rest in Spring). *The result was not pretty
because I tend to be forgotful and get confused easily. *This might
have something to do with _me_ instead of any problem with the
approach that I tried. *Knowing who I am, I prefer to stick with a
standardized approach that does all those chores in one setting.

Jay Chan

"Herb and Eneva" wrote in message
...
What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?


Just an observation for the naive readers. Does not matter if you sharpen
or change the blades at the end of the season, or the beginning of the
season. Same for air filter or spark plug changes.

The primary reason for gasoline problems is water intrusion. A marginally
filled gas tank in an environment that changes humidity levels quite often
is very susceptible to that. Unlikely to occur in a mostly closed garage or
a tight storage shed as the ambient temperature doesn't vary that much. For
long term storage, in terms of a year or more, drygas or similar additive is
recommended if retaining full gas tank. However, in those cases, running
the mower till the tank is empty is not recommended. Reason being is the
empty gas tank is more prone to rust internally.

Doesn't matter when you change the oil. Minimum, once a year. More if the
engine is severely worn., or, if used excessively. Yes, a hot engine
reduces the viscosity of the oil, and, assures more drainage of same.
That's more important in colder climates. But, the ambient temperature from
Maine to Texas in late summer is not variant enough to worry about a hot
engine before draining the oil. The resulting difference in volume of oil
during drainage is extremely negligible vs. a hot engine.

The most important difference is storage time, that will be much different
in Maine vs. Texas. Texans may be mowing as early as February to as late a
November as an example, nevermind any climate change.

You don't need to start a lawnmower engine during storage. Same for an
automobile for that matter, difference, disconnect the battery ground cable.
--
Dave

On Aug 20, 7:24*pm, "Dioclese" NONE wrote:
"Herb and Eneva" wrote in ...

*What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

Just an observation for the naive readers. *Does not matter if you sharpen
or change the blades at the end of the season, or the beginning of the
season. *Same for air filter or spark plug changes.

The primary reason for gasoline problems is water intrusion. *A marginally
filled gas tank in an environment that changes humidity levels quite often
is very susceptible to that. *Unlikely to occur in a mostly closed garage or
a tight storage shed as the ambient temperature doesn't vary that much.

I don't know where your garage or shed is, but here in NJ mine goes
from below freezing to 90 degrees. Is your shed air conditioned?
It's not the humidity levels that need to change, only that there be
some reasonable amount of humidity and temp swings like you typically
get in a shed or garage. Say there is 60% humidity. It could stay
at that level all year long. As long as the temp cycles, you get
condensation inside the fuel storage tank.




*For
long term storage, in terms of a year or more, drygas or similar additive is
recommended if retaining full gas tank.

And most would say bad things can happen to gas in far less time than
a year and that if you're storing it for even winter, you need to add
a fuel stabliizer. Which, BTW, is different than dry gas. What
would you rather pay for, 50 cents worth of fuel stabilizer, or a carb
dissassembly and cleaning?





*However, in those cases, running
the mower till the tank is empty is not recommended.

And I've seen small engine manuals that specifically state the best
way to store that engine is to run it dry. RTFM. When you buy them
they aren't full of gas, are they?




*Reason being is the
empty gas tank is more prone to rust internally.

Doesn't matter when you change the oil.

While you see a problem with fuel contamination over time, you don't
see a similar problem in having the engine internals sit in
contaminated and broken down oil all winter? It would seem to me that
it's better to have the engine filled with clean fresh oil for 5
months, which is what you get if you change it before storage.



*Minimum, once a year. *More if the
engine is severely worn., or, if used excessively. *

Most of the ones I've seen call for a change once a year or 50 hours.
What exactly is "excessively"? RTFM.



Yes, a hot engine
reduces the viscosity of the oil, and, assures more drainage of same.
That's more important in colder climates. *But, the ambient temperature from
Maine to Texas in late summer is not variant enough to worry about a hot
engine before draining the oil. *The resulting difference in volume of oil
during drainage is extremely negligible vs. a hot engine.

The most important difference is storage time, that will be much different
in Maine vs. Texas. *Texans may be mowing as early as February to as late a
November as an example, nevermind any climate change.

You don't need to start a lawnmower engine during storage. *Same for an
automobile for that matter, difference, disconnect the battery ground cable.

Yes, and if you don't put a battery tender on it, be prepared to put a
new battery in every year or two, car or lawn equipment.




--
Dave

Oxygen is the big enemy of gasoline. It is the oxidation products
that gum up the carburator and engine. Heat accelerates. Stabilizers
like Sta-bil deter this. So my advice is to store the tank nearly full
to displace air, with stabilizer under cool conditions. With
lawnmower, snow thrower, generator, chain saw and weed wacker, it is a
PITA to run engines dry at the end of every season so I just store
with gas containing Sta-bil.

It is also a good idea to get your equipment running weeks before you
will need it. Otherwise, repair shops are full of equipment that
failed to start and you will have a long wait to get yours repaired.

"Dioclese" NONE wrote:

. . . However, in those cases, running the mower till the tank is empty
is not recommended. Reason being is the empty gas tank is more prone to
rust internally.

Well, my lawnmower's gas tank (and most others I know of) are plastic, so I
don't see how running the engine dry will cause it to rust. Last I checked,
plastic does not rust. Most internal parts tend to be aluminum or a
non-rusting metal. Are you talking about a riding mower? The OP was not.
I have run my mower dry before winter storage for 14 years and never used
any kind of gas stabilizer. This same LawnBoy mower has started on the
first or second pull every year. Works great for me, but I just have a
simple, self-propelled, 4 stage LawnBoy.

. . . Yes, a hot engine reduces the viscosity of the oil, and, assures
more drainage of same. That's more important in colder climates. But, the
ambient temperature from Maine to Texas in late summer is not variant
enough to worry about a hot engine before draining the oil. The resulting
difference in volume of oil during drainage is extremely negligible vs. a
hot engine.

If you know that you're going to be changing the oil in your mower, why not
do it after you've mowed the lawn when the viscosity will be lower? It
takes no more effort than to change the oil when it's cold. And I disagree
that the drainage difference will be insignificant between "hot" and "cold"
oil. I've seen oil in both states and the "hot" oil is much thinner and
better draining. But let's say for sake of argument that only 2 additional
teaspoons of oil drains out when it's "hot". I would want the 2 additional
teaspoons of old/bad oil out of the mower, especially when it took me no
more effort to do so. Also, I don't buy your "Maine to Texas" warm climate
argument as far as viscosity not being that much different. Even in hot
Texas temperatures, oil sealed and capped in a resevoir will be cooler than
the ambient air when the mower is "cold". 95 degree ambient temperatures
will not translate to "95 degree" oil viscosity.

GM said:

"Dioclese" NONE wrote:

. . . However, in those cases, running the mower till the tank is empty
is not recommended. Reason being is the empty gas tank is more prone to
rust internally.

Well, my lawnmower's gas tank (and most others I know of) are plastic, so I
don't see how running the engine dry will cause it to rust. Last I checked,
plastic does not rust. Most internal parts tend to be aluminum or a
non-rusting metal.

I agree that rust won't be the problem. Condensation will. Varnish will.
Closing the shutoff valve, and running the engine until the /carb/ is
empty, and then filling the tank completely with fresh gasoline [1] will
help with both.

Are you talking about a riding mower? The OP was not.

Irrelevant. The engines require the same treatment.

I have run my mower dry before winter storage for 14 years and never used
any kind of gas stabilizer.

If you 'run your mower dry', why would there be any need for a fuel
stabilizer? There's no longer any fuel left to stabilize, duh.

This same LawnBoy mower has started on the
first or second pull every year. Works great for me, but I just have a
simple, self-propelled, 4 stage LawnBoy.

. . . Yes, a hot engine reduces the viscosity of the oil, and, assures
more drainage of same. That's more important in colder climates. But, the
ambient temperature from Maine to Texas in late summer is not variant
enough to worry about a hot engine before draining the oil. The resulting
difference in volume of oil during drainage is extremely negligible vs. a
hot engine.

If you know that you're going to be changing the oil in your mower, why not
do it after you've mowed the lawn when the viscosity will be lower? It
takes no more effort than to change the oil when it's cold. And I disagree
that the drainage difference will be insignificant between "hot" and "cold"
oil. I've seen oil in both states and the "hot" oil is much thinner and
better draining. But let's say for sake of argument that only 2 additional
teaspoons of oil drains out when it's "hot". I would want the 2 additional
teaspoons of old/bad oil out of the mower, especially when it took me no
more effort to do so. Also, I don't buy your "Maine to Texas" warm climate
argument as far as viscosity not being that much different. Even in hot
Texas temperatures, oil sealed and capped in a resevoir will be cooler than
the ambient air when the mower is "cold". 95 degree ambient temperatures
will not translate to "95 degree" oil viscosity.

Again, we'll agree. Warm oil is much quicker to change than "cold" oil. =)


[1]. Condensation: "atmospheric moisture that has condensed because of
cold"

The *key words* a "atmospheric" and "cold". You can't have the former in
the gas tank, by definition, without having air in the tank. Filling the
tank as full as possible with fuel, prevents condensation from even having
an environment in which to form. And, unless the mower is stored over the
winter in a heated room, there's not a lot you can do about the cold temps.
Eliminating a place for the condensation to form eliminates the need for
worrying about the cold temps doing bad juju to your gas. =) I add
stabilizer to my full tank only to help eliminate any condensation that may
form in the lines or carb over the winter. It gets applied when I open the
valve in the spring, and it's probably over-kill, but old habits die hard.
=)
--

Eggs

-Junk is something you've kept for years and throw away three weeks before
you need it.

have mower shop . if you run it dry or keep it full of
gas over winter ,treat the fuel on the last use . on most carbs ,there
is still some gas in the carb after you run it dry ,so best if the
little dab of fuel is treated . on my equipment ,i keep tank and carb
full of treated gas over the winter, i figure if theres air in the
tank/carb,there is water that is in the air so it condenses and can
cause corrosion and gummy deposits. lucas

----------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

On Aug 22, 10:10*am, wrote:
* * * * * * * * *have mower shop . if you run it dry or keep it full of
gas over winter ,treat the fuel on the last use . on most carbs ,there
is still some gas in the carb after you run it dry ,so best if the
little dab of fuel is treated . on my equipment ,i keep tank and carb
full of treated gas over the winter, i figure if theres air in the
tank/carb,there is water that is in the air so it condenses and can
cause corrosion and gummy deposits. lucas *

----------------------------------------------------------------http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm


That's what I've been doing for 13 years with a Honda and Sears. Add
the stabilizer to the gas storage can near the end of season. Then
use it and when done mowing for the last time, store the mower with
the tank full. Never had a carb or fuel related problem.

"GM" wrote in message
...

"Herb and Eneva" wrote in message
...
What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

On the last day of the season that you use your lawnmower, make sure you run
it until all of the gas is used up (gas reservoir is empty). Unplug the spark
plug wire and store the mower.

What is the point of disconnecting the spark plug?

"Dioclese" NONE wrote in message
...

Doesn't matter when you change the oil. Minimum, once a year. More if the
engine is severely worn., or, if used excessively. Yes, a hot engine reduces
the viscosity of the oil, and, assures more drainage of same. That's more
important in colder climates. But, the ambient temperature from Maine to
Texas in late summer is not variant enough to worry about a hot engine before
draining the oil. The resulting difference in volume of oil during drainage
is extremely negligible vs. a hot engine.

But, the hot engine is one which has been run recently, putting settled crud
from the oil into suspension, so it drains with the oil instead of waiting at
the bottom for the next time you start the engine.

wrote in message
...
have mower shop . if you run it dry or keep it full of
gas over winter ,treat the fuel on the last use . on most carbs ,there
is still some gas in the carb after you run it dry ,so best if the
little dab of fuel is treated . on my equipment ,i keep tank and carb
full of treated gas over the winter, i figure if theres air in the
tank/carb,there is water that is in the air so it condenses and can
cause corrosion and gummy deposits. lucas

----------------------------------------------------------------

I always run them dry, turning on the choke or pushing the primer at the end as
it starts to stall to clear as much gas as possible. Never a problem.