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#16
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On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:07:40 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine. Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm yanking on this crank. You sound like you're game. Read through the Mower Repair FAQ before you do anything else like. I'm sure your answer will be in there. http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_lmfaq.html I think you're getting gas so the logical alternative is to check the spark and I agree that a properly running mower more often than not, starts on the first pull. best of luck with it Bets, -BH. |
#17
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Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help!
"William Holiday" wrote in message ... On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:07:40 -0400, "Betsy" wrote: My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine. Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm yanking on this crank. You sound like you're game. Read through the Mower Repair FAQ before you do anything else like. I'm sure your answer will be in there. http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_lmfaq.html I think you're getting gas so the logical alternative is to check the spark and I agree that a properly running mower more often than not, starts on the first pull. best of luck with it Bets, -BH. |
#18
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Betsy wrote:
Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help! This thread made my twisted mind conger up yet another good reason why those ardant feminists who'd like to see the world turn into a place where all babies are cloned and born female are barking* up the wrong tree. You've proven why men are and will always be a necessary evil; Your repairMAN can start that well worn lousy compression engine, but you, a woman, lack the physiognomy to do so yourself. Long live all muscular male starter rope pullers!! Jeff (Ducking.....) * Any implicastion with female canines was unintended. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#19
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Buy a sheep!
"Betsy" wrote in message ... My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and etc. and it ran fine. For awhile. Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine. Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it wouldn't start again. I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80 for that and a wheel lock which was broken. I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first. Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the rope out all the way. I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree. Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine. Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine. Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm yanking on this crank. |
#20
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In my old neighborhood the best repairperson was a woman.
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Betsy wrote: Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help! This thread made my twisted mind conger up yet another good reason why those ardant feminists who'd like to see the world turn into a place where all babies are cloned and born female are barking* up the wrong tree. You've proven why men are and will always be a necessary evil; Your repairMAN can start that well worn lousy compression engine, but you, a woman, lack the physiognomy to do so yourself. Long live all muscular male starter rope pullers!! Jeff (Ducking.....) * Any implicastion with female canines was unintended. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#21
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Betsy,
I know you have tried several things, so you might not object to a few more ideas. First, try removing the air filter from your mower, and see how that works. If the problem goes away, you have a clogged or dirty air filter, so replace it. Second, replace the gas in your mower's tank with fresh stuff. If the gas has been sitting there for many weeks (hopefully not from last season), it has probably gone bad. In the future, use a product called 'stabil' in your gas to keep it from going stale. Thirdly, did you completely run the gas out of you mower last season. If any gas remained behind, it would probably turn to shellac, and plug up you carboretor. In that case, you will need to have it cleaned by a mechanic. You basically need only three things to start an engine. Fuel, spark, and the correct air mixture. I have covered some of the overlooked problems. Be aware that using 'starting fluid' on a regular basis can deteriorate your engine and carboretor. It attacks all the plastic parts and does other damage, as well. Hope this helps, Sherwin D. Betsy wrote: My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and etc. and it ran fine. For awhile. Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine. Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it wouldn't start again. I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80 for that and a wheel lock which was broken. I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first. Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the rope out all the way. I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree. Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine. Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine. Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm yanking on this crank. |
#22
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Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. |
#23
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It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally
start just when one doesn't expect. Could it be the plug? "benzette" wrote in message ... Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. |
#24
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benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower engine. Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and aircraft engines. It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#25
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... benzette wrote: Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower engine. Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and aircraft engines. It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette Jeff Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal. And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium gas compared to regular. The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent. Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead. People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know what I mean. But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference anyway. Save the 20 cents and buy the regular. But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage. (NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains water) But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank full. (quart) It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any water/condensation/scale through the carburetor It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it. Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank. It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing. It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug. But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post. These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost $100 or more. It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs. Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord) Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without being damaged If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine case Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or replaceable separately. And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire can get you going again. But as already said, this is just an internet guess. AMUN |
#26
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"Betsy" wrote in message ... It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally start just when one doesn't expect. Could it be the plug? Could be, but from what you described yesterday, it sound like low compression. Worn out. Time for a rebuild or a new one. |
#27
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Amun wrote:
But as already said, this is just an internet guess. AMUN All of your crappy advice is just a guess. You spelled internet wrong. In your case it's u-n-e-d-u-c-a-t-e-d. -- WARNING: Do NOT under any circumstances take advice from an idiot named AMUN. AMUN is a clueless moron regarding tile, electrical and various other construction issues. As things go AMUN will (thankfully) dissapear as his kind usually does when confronted with their bad advice by those who are knowledgeable in their respective fields. Until then - BEWARE |
#28
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On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:31:58 -0700, G Henslee
wrote: Amun wrote: But as already said, this is just an internet guess. AMUN All of your crappy advice is just a guess. You spelled internet wrong. In your case it's u-n-e-d-u-c-a-t-e-d. needs a valve job, he's pulling it a lot harder than you, I was a service manager for small engines for several years and saw this all the time, tell him to pop the valve cover off, measure the lash and post back with a model number. Chip |
#29
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Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas is good enough. I wonder if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my comments? Sherwin D. benzette wrote: Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. |
#30
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Amun wrote: "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... benzette wrote: Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to start it? Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium or drain the other gas out. Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower engine. Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and aircraft engines. It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette Jeff Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal. And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium gas compared to regular. The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent. Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead. Not that it matters for her problem, but gas does not go bad in few weeks under normal conditions. A month or two would be more of a likelihood of such a problem. If she had her gas in the tank for that time period, it could have gone bad. That is why I suggested she put in a product like Stabil just after buying the gas. If her gas is that old, it's too late to protect it, so she should dispose of it and get fresh stuff. People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know what I mean. But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference anyway. Save the 20 cents and buy the regular. But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage. (NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains water) Most gasolines already have about 10% alcohol in them, at least in my part of the USA. If she bought her gas without the alcohol in it, she is better off going to a different gas station who might not have water in the bottom of their tanks, or finding a station that sells gasahol. My vote goes for stale gas, not gas with water in it. But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank full. (quart) It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any water/condensation/scale through the carburetor It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it. I would recommend a product called SeaFoam, available from most auto stores to treat the gasoline to both clean the carburetor and stabilize the gas (similar to the Stabil product I mentioned earlier). If she did not run the gas out of her engine last season, these additives probably won't work, and she will need to have the carburetor cleaned by a mechanic. Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank. It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing. It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug. But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post. These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost $100 or more. It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs. Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord) Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without being damaged If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine case Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or replaceable separately. And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire can get you going again. A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I would do a more positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it connected to it's lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal surface of the mower. Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the plug. If it doesn't, she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc. But as already said, this is just an internet guess. AMUN |
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