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#16
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On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 16:05:05 GMT, figaro wrote:
Always remember that trees are living things. Their roots are very important to them. Use caution and common sense when removing roots. If you remove 30% of the roots, you will need to remove 30% of the branches or you risk killing the tree. Good luck. Once again, this is a myth. The tree needs those branches to produce energy to recover from the root damage. Never remove a live tree branch without a good reason. Meanwhile, removing 30% of roots or branches is stretching the limits of what the tree can tolerate. Especially if the roots are very large (say, 2" diam or larger, depending on trunk diam) or very close to the trunk. I reiterate, the solution is to add mulch on top of the roots. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist |
#17
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Treedweller wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 16:05:05 GMT, figaro wrote: Always remember that trees are living things. Their roots are very important to them. Use caution and common sense when removing roots. If you remove 30% of the roots, you will need to remove 30% of the branches or you risk killing the tree. Good luck. Once again, this is a myth. The tree needs those branches to produce energy to recover from the root damage. Never remove a live tree branch without a good reason. Meanwhile, removing 30% of roots or branches is stretching the limits of what the tree can tolerate. Especially if the roots are very large (say, 2" diam or larger, depending on trunk diam) or very close to the trunk. I reiterate, the solution is to add mulch on top of the roots. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist ......but only a couple of inches or you risk smothering the roots. -- Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington USDA Zone 8b Sunset Zone 5 Not a certified anything |
#18
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Always remember that trees are living things. Their roots are very important to them. Use caution and common sense when removing roots. If you remove 30% of the roots, you will need to remove 30% of the branches or you risk killing the tree. Good luck. Once again, this is a myth. The tree needs those branches to produce energy to recover from the root damage. Never remove a live tree branch without a good reason. Meanwhile, removing 30% of roots or branches is stretching the limits of what the tree can tolerate. Especially if the roots are very large (say, 2" diam or larger, depending on trunk diam) or very close to the trunk. I reiterate, the solution is to add mulch on top of the roots. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist Calling it a myth is a little arrogant. While I bow to your professional expertise, there is scientific evidence to support both claims. My tree experience has been mostly with bonsai where it is accepted practice to significantly trim the tree roots to keep the plant in a dwarf form--and this, in turn, requires an equal trimming of the foliage or it is very likely the plant will die. I agree that in landscape trees where you are removing only a few roots there is usually not a need to trim the branches. However, if you are removing significant roots, even from a landscape tree, I'm sure you will agree that the drought stress may be too much for a tree to recover and the tree will die. I have found, through personal experience, that trimming the branches of a tree that has been root-compromised is an excellent way to prevent death. I am not the only person who feels this way; many professional horticulturists agree with this assessment. In the future, I would appreciate it if you disagreed politely instead of throwing around your "ISA Certified Arborist" as if nobody else could possibly have anything of substance to say. I have met many professional horticulturists who were dead wrong about many issues, mostly because they were following old beliefs and not keeping current with the science. |
#19
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On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 00:27:41 GMT, figaro wrote:
Calling it a myth is a little arrogant. While I bow to your professional expertise, there is scientific evidence to support both claims. My tree experience has been mostly with bonsai where it is accepted practice to significantly trim the tree roots to keep the plant in a dwarf form--and this, in turn, requires an equal trimming of the foliage or it is very likely the plant will die. I agree that in landscape trees where you are removing only a few roots there is usually not a need to trim the branches. However, if you are removing significant roots, even from a landscape tree, I'm sure you will agree that the drought stress may be too much for a tree to recover and the tree will die. I have found, through personal experience, that trimming the branches of a tree that has been root-compromised is an excellent way to prevent death. I am not the only person who feels this way; many professional horticulturists agree with this assessment. In the future, I would appreciate it if you disagreed politely instead of throwing around your "ISA Certified Arborist" as if nobody else could possibly have anything of substance to say. I have met many professional horticulturists who were dead wrong about many issues, mostly because they were following old beliefs and not keeping current with the science. I'm sorry if you felt this was rude or arrogant. In a discussion, I generally feel free to add my opinion as I see fit. If you disagree, you are obviously able to say so. A few decades ago, arborists were taught that branches should be removed flush to the trunk and all wounds should be sealed, among other now discredited notions. I may be wrong. Surely we all know that's the chance you take when you get info from Usenet. I add my CA credential to posts about trees to let people know I have studied research, attended seminars, and otherwise educated myself about trees. I do not claim that makes me infallible, but I do believe I am more reliable when it comes to trees than Farmer Joe who tops trees cuz his daddy did. I also include my sig with a link to the ISA's consumer info site, where you can check up on me if you care to (though I don't think this specific question is addressed there). I do not know what your level of expertise is, nor do I discount your oipinions out of hand, but I have been taught that this "take off branches to compensate for root loss" thing is a myth. Your comments about bonsai are intriguing and I am rethinking the whole thing in light of them, but I still think landscape trees are a whole nuther world. I'm inclined to think if you remove enough roots to cause this sort of response in a landscape tree, you're looking at trouble regardless of what you do to the branches. I'm not quite willing to retract my statements yet, but I apologize if you felt I was suggesting you had nothing of value to say. Stay tuned. Keith |
#20
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I'm not quite willing to
retract my statements yet, but I apologize if you felt I was suggesting you had nothing of value to say. Stay tuned. Keith I am sorry about the tone of my response to you. I have a really hard time deciphering people's attitudes from their posts and I generally assume the worst because that has been my experience with people in general. I agree that there are extreme differences between bonsai and landscape trees but I think the biology is the same. I also agree with you that if you remove as many roots from a landscape tree as a bonsai, you are in BIG trouble and branch trimming may do no good at all. I had difficulty understanding the original poster's situation without knowing the tree species or the age and size of the tree in relation to the size of the roots to be cut and was just trying to impart some general caution about trimming tree roots. I really appreciate the respectful response you gave me. I guess I should give people more credit but the lack of ethics in American politics and corporations have spilled over into my personal expectation of the population in general. |
#21
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figaro wrote:
I have a really hard time deciphering people's attitudes from their posts and I generally assume the worst because that has been my experience with people in general. May I suggest for your consideration the following? "I always prefer to believe the best of everybody, it saves so much trouble." --Rudyard Kipling I agree that there are extreme differences between bonsai and landscape trees but I think the biology is the same. Biological principles are the same for all living organisms. However, scale is very important in biology. Landscape trees are living more or less at the scale and in the environment in which they evolved, and to which they are thus adapted. Bonsai are living in quite different conditions from those in which the organisms evolved and to which they are adapted. It seems to me that the latter are much more delicately balanced at the edge of survival than the former. Mike Prager On the North Carolina coast - Zone 8a (Remove spam traps from email address to reply.) |
#22
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With the surface roots you describe, it sounds like they could be maple
trees. #1: Don't cut or otherwise injure the roots. #2: If the roots look more like the bark on the tree and aren't creamy white in-ground roots, do not cover them with sod or soil. They need to be exposed or they will rot and eventually kill the tree. It may take 20 or more years, but it will rot the roots and kill the tree. #3: Do not plant under the tree, as you will most likely have to add soil to do so. #4: Your best bet is to remove the existing soil/grass over the roots so they can "breathe", and replace with 2" of bark mulch of your choice. Just be sure to keep the mulch 2-3" away from the trunk of the tree. This is the easiest solution in terms of cutting the lawn without whacking the roots, and far better for the tree in the long run. The University of Wisconsin has an InfoSource message on surface roots at: http://infosource.uwex.edu/recorddet...pe&headingid=2 Hope this helps! Suzy in Wisconsin "Leon Trollski" wrote in message news89Yd.637133$Xk.277234@pd7tw3no... "Suzanne D." wrote in message ... We have several large shade trees in our yard. Around the trees, numerous small thin roots are exposed. They are from pencil-thickness to a couple of inches, and they tend to come up, lay flat over the ground (or slightly elevated from the ground) for 5-10 inches, then go back down. This makes it very difficult to mow the lawn (grass is growing between the roots). Can someone tell me the feasibility of any of these ideas: 1. Removing the exposed roots. If so, how? 2. Re-sodding. Would this be terribly expensive? Would I have to do it to the whole lawn, or just the rooty areas? 3. Giving up that part of the lawn and planting big circles of wildflowers around the trees. 4. Anything I am missing? Thanks in advance. --S. Drill some holes and fill them with Roundup from your local hardware. Then douse the rest of your lawn and garden. |
#23
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On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:18:05 GMT, figaro wrote:
I'm not quite willing to retract my statements yet, but I apologize if you felt I was suggesting you had nothing of value to say. Stay tuned. Keith I am sorry about the tone of my response to you. I have a really hard time deciphering people's attitudes from their posts and I generally assume the worst because that has been my experience with people in general. I agree that there are extreme differences between bonsai and landscape trees but I think the biology is the same. I also agree with you that if you remove as many roots from a landscape tree as a bonsai, you are in BIG trouble and branch trimming may do no good at all. I had difficulty understanding the original poster's situation without knowing the tree species or the age and size of the tree in relation to the size of the roots to be cut and was just trying to impart some general caution about trimming tree roots. I really appreciate the respectful response you gave me. I guess I should give people more credit but the lack of ethics in American politics and corporations have spilled over into my personal expectation of the population in general. Don't worry about the tone of your msg--I have a thick skin by now. I, too, misinterpret email and usenet sometimes. It's all part of the game. As for the roots-and-pruning question, I've only given it cursory attention (been out of town a few days). The initial response I got from tree guys was to agree with me that pruning should not be done to compensate root loss, but that they have no source material at hand to refer to. I hope to dredge up a little something soon. k |
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