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#1
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![]() "andyal" wrote in message ... I want a climber, preferably evergreen, reasonably quick growing, for the side of the house (including the not-so-aesthetically pleasing extension). I have got cold feet over ivy - had thought about Hedera...Gloire de marengo, and boston ivy (too rampant?), but the current favourite is Clematis armandii. Anyone have experience with this, what is the best way to support the clematis? I see you are in the UK- but knowing exactly where you are might help folks ![]() Climate matters. -- Toni Hills of Kentucky USDA Zone 6b http://www.cearbhaill.com |
#2
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I want a climber, preferably evergreen, reasonably quick growing, for the side of the house (including the not-so-aesthetically pleasing extension). I have got cold feet over ivy - had thought about Hedera...Gloire de marengo, and boston ivy (too rampant?), but the current favourite is Clematis armandii. Anyone have experience with this, what is the best way to support the clematis?
Andy |
#3
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"andyal" wrote in message
... I want a climber, preferably evergreen, reasonably quick growing, for the side of the house (including the not-so-aesthetically pleasing extension). I have got cold feet over ivy - had thought about Hedera...Gloire de marengo, and boston ivy (too rampant?), but the current favourite is Clematis armandii. Anyone have experience with this, what is the best way to support the clematis? Evergreen clematis tends to grow to the top of a house and NOT cover a wall. It's really a "roof cover" vine more than a wall cover. The grey peely sustaining branches can be quite homely, though shorter vines can be planted nearby to use the leafless lower clematis branches to climb. Boston ivy is a great choice especially if your autumn temperatures drop enough to give you the seasonal red leaves that are just so thrilling. But it's not evergreen. It does fill a wall completely from top to bottom with very little training. Ivy is slow to establish from scratch; in ten years you might begin to see an entire wall covered. With patience, though, it might be worth selecting some cultivars with unusual leaves and give the wall the look of five or eight different varieties covering it, and then if you're lucky bats will nest in it. While waiting for ivy to become mature, in the meantime for "quick" coverage you could rely on Akebia quinata, a semi-decidous vine that grows with great rapidity and covers large areas, has small lovely scented flowers, & in full sun with at least two cultivars edible fruits develope about the size of a child's shoe. (Akebia also thrives in shadier spots but will be less likely to fruit though it'll still flower well in shade. Because ivy also does well with shade the akebia shouldn't retard the ivy's development). The akebia can be removed when the ivy finally starts getting significant in its fully evergreen coverage. If deciduous would do, Schizophragma "Moonlight" vine related to hydrangeas is stunning for leaves and for flowers, adheres directly to walls by fine threads that pose no threat of injury to a wall (beyond discoloration; if you tear the vines out someday the wall will look all veiny). Hydrangea seemani is one of the best evergreen complete-wall-coverage vines for temperate regions. It has lovely big clusters of white flowers which eventual dry to brown but still look decorative dried out. I have a fully evergreen vine "China Blue" (Holboellia coriacea, sometimes afflicted with the horrible common name "sausage vine") which even neglected has covered most of one side of my garage in three years, and would probably take off like mad with regular watering. It supposedly needs consistently moist soil, but mine thrives without ever being watered, which is why I'm pretty sure it'd be a quicker wall-cover if it got the water it'd prefer. It can be a hard vine to locate from the trade, but you might want to research it to see if it's not just the thing. It has fragrant dangly clusters of flowers either white to cream-colored (female) or faded-purple (male) deeper purple in the throat, then edible bright purple fruits, but probably won't bloom or fruit for several years until long established. The main thing is it does very full wall coverage or fence coverage. It may need a bit of wire structure to train it (whereas Hydrangea seemani adheres right to the wall on its own). This would be my hands-down favorite of the choices discussed, if your zone, like mine (USDA zone 8 around Puget Sound), favors them. -paghat the ratgirl -- visit my temperate gardening website: http://www.paghat.com visit my film reviews website: http://www.weirdwildrealm.com |
#4
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Thanks very much for this. I like Boston ivy, but because the west side wall goes right up to the apex of the roof, it will be difficult for me to get a ladder up to the top for pruning. This is partly because on this side there is only 5ft or so of side access width (up the neighbour's fence). Does anyone have any suggestions on this?
So I think I may have to stick to a vine/climber that one can 'train', and will tend to grow up only as far as it is supported to do so... or a sucker/rooting climber that will not spread to the top... But I'm also slightly hesitant about knocking vine pegs into the mortar - does this do much damage? Andy Quote:
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#5
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#6
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West facing - but very close to your neighbour. How much sun/light will it get? If the space is not well-lit, any climber will tend to go for the maximum light.
How about solanum? or a red-leaved vine? |
#7
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Thanks, will look these up. The neighbour's house is single storey where it borders us, so lighting should be OK - most of the afternoon. If I put the ladder base in their property I could probably get a safe angle on the ladder - but this isn't ideal.
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