I am in Tampa

last November i did a stuipd thing, i pulled out my oak tree from the
ground (it was growing very slow) and replaced the soil with manure and
humus, the leaves started falling, i thought it is becasue of winter, March
was warm, so i trimmed very hard to stimulate the roots growth, till now ,
not even a single new leaf, i have 2 other oak trees which i never care to
repalced their soil and they r growing well

thnx for help




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In article , "info"
wrote:

I am in Tampa

last November i did a stuipd thing, i pulled out my oak tree from the
ground (it was growing very slow) and replaced the soil with manure and
humus, the leaves started falling, i thought it is becasue of winter, March
was warm, so i trimmed very hard to stimulate the roots growth, till now ,
not even a single new leaf, i have 2 other oak trees which i never care to
repalced their soil and they r growing well

thnx for help


Some oaks will still only just now be getting little leafbuds, so it might
be a speck early to know for sure it's dead. But EITHER well-composted
manure OR humousy compost mixed with sand or clay soil is not the same as
planting something in pure manure & humous. Plants want a mix of organic &
inorganic, & you may have vastly exeeded the organic component. Plus, if
by manure you mean nice fresh stinky uncomposted poo, double-bad-action on
that poor tree's roots, though I'm assuming you mean composted steer or
chicken manure.

For the most part you can't force a tree to grow quicker just by
over-fertilizing or planting it in pure compost. A good balanced soil &
patience is what it takes. And if you want trees with substance, you have
to invest in slighty larger specimens. Generally speaking a 12 or 15 foot
tree isn't all that expensive nor the rootball impossibly large, & right
from day one you have something with a little substance even though it's a
lot of years away from being a big tree. If you did kill the tree you
were disatisfied with already, at least that leaves you an opportunity to
replace it with a bigger choice that won't try your patience.

-paghat the ratgirl

--
"Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher.
"Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature.
-from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers"
See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/

On Wed, 16 Apr 2003 20:53:14 -0400, "info"
wrote:

I am in Tampa

last November i did a stuipd thing, i pulled out my oak tree from the
ground (it was growing very slow) and replaced the soil with manure and
humus, the leaves started falling, i thought it is becasue of winter, March
was warm, so i trimmed very hard to stimulate the roots growth, till now ,
not even a single new leaf, i have 2 other oak trees which i never care to
repalced their soil and they r growing well

thnx for help


I agree with what Paghat said, and would add the following:

If you literally pulled this tree out of the ground, root loss was
probably substantial. Pruning to compensate for root loss is not
advisable. The tree was already under stress, and instead of letting
it produce leaves to compensate, you removed buds that were about to
break dormancy. It is also better to fill the planting hole with
native, unamended soil. The tree has to adjust to it eventually, and
amending the soil delays the adjustment. Also, the roots may have
difficult times trying to cross from the amended soil into the native
soil, creating the possibility of roots that circle the hole and
eventually girdle the major root flares.

The damage done depends largely on how you "trimmed" the tree, but
even if you made proper cuts, it's likely this tree is toast. I
wouldn't give up yet, though. Since the tree had to add roots to
replace those lost, it may only be delayed in breaking dormancy. You
can scrape a little bark off a twig with your thumbnail to check for
green tissue (if it's brown underneath, that twig is dead), or just
wait a little longer to see what happens, but you should probably
start thinking about a replacement tree.

I'm not sure what weather is like in Tampa, but I'm guessing it's warm
enough over the winter to make autumn planting a good idea. This will
allow more roots to develop before the heat of spring and summer so it
will suffer less transplant shock (and require less water to get
established). If you can be more patient this time, you'll do better
to plant a smaller tree than a large one. Not only is it a lot
cheaper, but the smaller tree will establish itself in the new site
faster and outgrow the bigger tree. In other words, it will reach its
mature size faster than a larger transplant would in the same
conditions. For more information about planting and establishing new
trees, see the consumer info link in my sig below.

Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist
For more info about the International Society of Arboriculture, please visit http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/.
For consumer info about tree care, visit http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/.../consumer.html