Ok everyone I have algea and I'm not ashamed to admit it right now.
Does anyone know if once a plants leaves have a lot of algea covering
if the can it be saved? I have/had a beautiful brazialian sword and
qutie a number other swords that have this on them.I also have some
hygro,diandra,some sags. So heres my specs CPF hood 55w x 4 and
regular strip thats has 2 x 20w on a 75g. The lights are on for 9
hours at full strength on 12 total starting the cycle with the 40w
strip and ending with it. I been using liquid ferts. And I recently
(last week) changed my ferts to ALL seachem products. Yes the algea
was there before I started this new dosing system. I also do water
changes once a week. I do have co2 injection. And enough Sae's/
platies. Any info would be appreciated. Oh yeah it's on my cardinal
plant as well.

thanks Matt

Ok everyone I have algea and I'm not ashamed to admit it right now.
Does anyone know if once a plants leaves have a lot of algea covering
if the can it be saved?

For an amazon sword, it might be best to cut off old, algae-infested leaves.
New ones should grow in very quickly.

So heres my specs CPF hood 55w x 4 and
regular strip thats has 2 x 20w on a 75g.

That is nearly 3.5 watts per gallon. I hope you are using compressed CO2. DIY
is unlikely to be enough for a tank as large as yours, with as much light as
you have.

The lights are on for 9
hours at full strength on 12 total starting the cycle with the 40w
strip and ending with it.

Make sure the lights are on full strength for at least ten hours. Tropical
plants are used to a 12-hour day, so ten is the shortest you should go.

I do have co2 injection.

With your amount of light, the first thing I would worry about is CO2. What is
your pH and KH? If you don't have a KH test kit, you should get one. If you
can't, measure the pH of your tapwater after it's set out in a cup overnight,
and measure the pH of the tank, and see what the difference is. It might also
be helpful to measure the pH of the tank in the morning, just before the lights
go on, during the middle of the "day," and again immediately after lights out.
That will help you determine if you're maintaining enough CO2 in the water
during the day.

Also, can you describe the algae in more detail? If it's that soft, slimy
brown algae, a few otos will do wonders. (But it will only be replaced with
other types of algae unless the underlying problem is fixed.)

How long has your tank been set up and planted?


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Ok everyone I have algea and I'm not ashamed to admit it right now.
Does anyone know if once a plants leaves have a lot of algea covering
Yes I am using compressed co2 and it is turned on/off w/ the lights.
The lights are on for 9
hours at full strength on 12 total starting the cycle with the 40w
strip and ending with it.


I will make the change and observe I was told before not to exceed 10.
I do have co2 injection.

I usually test the ph about two hours before lights out and it always ranges from 7.6 to 7.0 with a kh of 5-6.
The dark brown is not removable with fingers so I wouldn't say that it is soft it is more spotted on the leaves but it forms clumps. Its not on everything .
How long has your tank been set up and planted? In april I started.
My tank was redone on 5/25 with new substrate and I've had problems ever since. I used to have blue/black rock and it wasnt very appealing so with research I changed to about 1- 1 1/2" of flourite and 2" of natural stone(small) I appreciate your reply it
s hard for me to find people with knowledge. I feel like a lone ranger. Thanks again Matt

/

I usually test the ph about two hours before lights out and it always
ranges from 7.6 to 7.0 with a kh of 5-6.

That is a *huge* variation. With your KH, your pH should be 6.8-7.0, all day,
every day. With your lighting levels, it's essential.

You might find it easier to just leave the CO2 on 24/7. After measuring the pH
of my tank several times a day for a few days, I found that leaving the CO2 on
all the time resulted in a more stable pH than turning it off at night. (Not
to mention a head start in the morning when the lights go on.)

The dark brown is not removable with fingers so I wouldn't say that it is
soft it is more spotted on the leaves but it forms clumps. Its not on
everything .

Hmm. Can you get a picture? I don't think I've ever seen a dark brown algae
that forms clumps. There's a dark blue-green algae that does.

In any case, you should add a few algae-eaters to your tank if you don't have
any. Otos, the right kind of snails, a bristlenose pleco, something like that.


But it might be best to wait until you get your CO2 stable. Some of these
animals are rumored to dislike wildly fluctuating pHs.

In april I started.
My tank was redone on 5/25 with new substrate and I've had problems ever
since. I used to have blue/black rock and it wasnt very appealing so with
research I changed to about 1- 1 1/2" of flourite and 2" of natural
stone(small)

Your tank is still new, then. It can take awhile to get a new tank in balance,
especially if you're new to planted tanks. Don't give up! The most important
thing right now is to get your CO2 levels up and stable. What kind of filters,
powerheads, etc., do you have on the tank? With a tank as large and as
brightly-lit as yours, it may be hard to keep enough CO2 in the water, even if
have a compressed system. See if you can reduce surface turbulence.

Also, what kind of reactor or diffuser are you using? If turning up the CO2
and reducing turbulence doesn't work, a more effective diffuser might help.

Since your tank and presumably your plants are new, I would definitely cut off
old, algae-encrusted leaves. (Not all once -- maybe one or two a day.) It's
normal for the leaves of swords to die after a few weeks after you plant them.
Swords (and many other aquarium plants) are grown emersed (with the leaves
above water). Once you plant them underwater, the emersed leaves die, and are
replaced by new, submersed growth that may look quite different. As long as
new leaves are appearing, the plant is probably okay.

I appreciate your reply its hard for me to find people with knowledge. I
feel like a lone ranger.

If you haven't found Chuck's page yet, check it out:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/index.htm

Lots of useful info, especially in the "articles" section.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

tose (LeighMo) wrote in message news: Hmm. Can you get a picture? I don't think I've ever seen a dark brown algae
that forms clumps. There's a dark blue-green algae that does.

In any case, you should add a few algae-eaters to your tank if you don't have
any. Otos, the right kind of snails, a bristlenose pleco, something like that.


But it might be best to wait until you get your CO2 stable. Some of these
animals are rumored to dislike wildly fluctuating pHs.

In april I started.
My tank was redone on 5/25 with new substrate and I've had problems ever
since. I used to have blue/black rock and it wasnt very appealing so with
research I changed to about 1- 1 1/2" of flourite and 2" of natural
stone(small)

Your tank is still new, then. It can take awhile to get a new tank in balance,
especially if you're new to planted tanks. Don't give up! The most important
thing right now is to get your CO2 levels up and stable. What kind of filters,
powerheads, etc., do you have on the tank? With a tank as large and as
brightly-lit as yours, it may be hard to keep enough CO2 in the water, even if
have a compressed system. See if you can reduce surface turbulence.

Also, what kind of reactor or diffuser are you using? If turning up the CO2
and reducing turbulence doesn't work, a more effective diffuser might help.

Since your tank and presumably your plants are new, I would definitely cut off
old, algae-encrusted leaves. (Not all once -- maybe one or two a day.) It's
normal for the leaves of swords to die after a few weeks after you plant them.
Swords (and many other aquarium plants) are grown emersed (with the leaves
above water). Once you plant them underwater, the emersed leaves die, and are
replaced by new, submersed growth that may look quite different. As long as
new leaves are appearing, the plant is probably okay.

I appreciate your reply its hard for me to find people with knowledge. I
feel like a lone ranger.

If you haven't found Chuck's page yet, check it out:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/index.htm

Lots of useful info, especially in the "articles" section.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Hi thanks for the advice!!
So today since i left the co2 on all night ph was stable at 7.0
Hope that it stays that way to. I have a decent set of test kits but
all the testing isn,t much good. The algea is now a redish brown and I
should rephrase the clumps its more in patches.Now Im noticing tiny
green spots between the other algea. I believe you responded to
another question that I asked Whats In our Filter? If not its on the
board.My filter in a Cascade 1200 canister. Ihave the spray bar
feature for the output below the water surface and it creates minimal
surface turbulence. I said that I used a phosphate remover. and
ammonia rocks. The water I was told by the LFS contains high amounts
of phosphates. So I remove them but also add them via Seachem.I have
the whole damn line of Seachem plant products.I only started 2 weeks
ago. Before this I used some root tabs and Leaf Zone.do have afew
SAE's and a few guppies and platies for algea. I also have 3 puffers a
mono some hifin tetras.I have a 29g planted w/ 20w and that tank
couldn't be better. Any more help would be great.
Thank you Matt

So today since i left the co2 on all night ph was stable at 7.0

That's good!

I have a decent set of test kits but
all the testing isn,t much good. The algea is now a redish brown and I
should rephrase the clumps its more in patches.

That sounds like brown algae. A few otocinclus catfish will make short work of
it. Get roughly one for each ten gallons of tank size. (They've small.)

The water I was told by the LFS contains high amounts
of phosphates.

So does mine. 40ppm, according to my water report. But it's never been a
problem for me. Even in my unplanted tanks, it didn't cause algae problems.

do have a few SAE's

Are you sure they are true SAEs? Most fish sold as SAEs in the U.S. are
actually false SAEs.

I also have 3 puffers a
mono some hifin tetras.

Monos and most puffers are brackish water fish. They may not be happy in a
freshwater tank over the long term.

.I have a 29g planted w/ 20w and that tank
couldn't be better.

That is very low-light. It's much easier to control algae in a low light tank.

For a high-light, high-tech tank like your larger tank, the trick is to give
the plants everything they need to grow and let them out-compete the algae.
Don't try to restrict nutrients. Get rid of the ammonia rocks and the
phosphate remover. Your plants will serve as the best ammonia and phosphate
removers in the world, if you just give them what they need to grow. You've
got a good start with light and CO2. Now you just have to find the right
fertilizing regimen.

Because you have such a brightly-lit tank, you may need to add more Flourish,
etc., than the label says. The best way to do this is to let your plants be
your guide. If they look pale, they probably need more fertilizer. It's not
uncommon for people to have to add four times as much as the label says, or
even more, for a high-tech tank with a lot of plants in it. Each tank is
different, so you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you.

You should also make sure that a lot of your plants are fast-growing stem
plants. Cabomba, Limnophila, Bacopa, Rotala, water sprite, Hygrophila, etc.
It's the fast-growing plants that are best at outcompeting the algae.
Especially at the beginning, you should have a lot of fast growers.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

So today since i left the co2 on all night ph was stable at 7.0

That's good!

I have a decent set of test kits but
all the testing isn,t much good. The algea is now a redish brown and I
should rephrase the clumps its more in patches.

That sounds like brown algae. A few otocinclus catfish will make short work of
it. Get roughly one for each ten gallons of tank size. (They've small.)

The water I was told by the LFS contains high amounts
of phosphates.

So does mine. 40ppm, according to my water report. But it's never been a
problem for me. Even in my unplanted tanks, it didn't cause algae problems.

do have a few SAE's

Are you sure they are true SAEs? Most fish sold as SAEs in the U.S. are
actually false SAEs.

I also have 3 puffers a
mono some hifin tetras.

Monos and most puffers are brackish water fish. They may not be happy in a
freshwater tank over the long term.

.I have a 29g planted w/ 20w and that tank
couldn't be better.

That is very low-light. It's much easier to control algae in a low light tank.

For a high-light, high-tech tank like your larger tank, the trick is to give
the plants everything they need to grow and let them out-compete the algae.
Don't try to restrict nutrients. Get rid of the ammonia rocks and the
phosphate remover. Your plants will serve as the best ammonia and phosphate
removers in the world, if you just give them what they need to grow. You've
got a good start with light and CO2. Now you just have to find the right
fertilizing regimen.

Because you have such a brightly-lit tank, you may need to add more Flourish,
etc., than the label says. The best way to do this is to let your plants be
your guide. If they look pale, they probably need more fertilizer. It's not
uncommon for people to have to add four times as much as the label says, or
even more, for a high-tech tank with a lot of plants in it. Each tank is
different, so you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you.

You should also make sure that a lot of your plants are fast-growing stem
plants. Cabomba, Limnophila, Bacopa, Rotala, water sprite, Hygrophila, etc.
It's the fast-growing plants that are best at outcompeting the algae.
Especially at the beginning, you should have a lot of fast growers.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Because you have such a brightly-lit tank, you may need to add more
Flourish,
etc., than the label says. The best way to do this is to let your plants be
your guide. If they look pale, they probably need more fertilizer. It's not
uncommon for people to have to add four times as much as the label says, or
even more, for a high-tech tank with a lot of plants in it. Each tank is
different, so you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you.

Should a tank like mine be pearling everday w/ proper fert and co2?
Will the change either good or bad be noticed within a few days. So I
will know if I am overdosing or underdosing?

You should also make sure that a lot of your plants are
fast-growing stem
plants. Cabomba, Limnophila, Bacopa, Rotala, water sprite, Hygrophila, etc.
It's the fast-growing plants that are best at outcompeting the algae.
Especially at the beginning, you should have a lot of fast growers.

I have some rotala and sunset hygro that Ive had for a month and has already needed triming.The swords and sags are the problem.40 plants worth is quite ugly.
Matt

Should a tank like mine be pearling everday w/ proper fert and co2?

Not necessarily.

Will the change either good or bad be noticed within a few days. So I
will know if I am overdosing or underdosing?

With fast-growing plants, yes, you'll notice they get darker green in a few
days. Algae will probably disappear gradually. You may not even notice that
it's fading. One day, you'll just suddenly realize there's no algae.

I have some rotala and sunset hygro that Ive had for a month and has already
needed triming.The swords and sags are the problem.40 plants worth is quite
ugly.

The swords are probably just losing their emersed growth leaves. As long as
they are growing new leaves, feel free to cut off the ugly old ones. (If they
aren't growing new leaves, try giving them some root tabs.) Sags often look
bad for a few weeks after you plant them. They take a long time to adjust.
Mine always get black spots on their leaves when I transplant them and look
awful. But in a few weeks, they recover.

I do recommend getting some algae-eating fish. Your tank is large enough that
you have the room, and it's difficult to get a high-tech tank so perfectly
balanced that there's never any algae. SAEs do well with thread-like algae,
but you should get something with a sucker mouth, as well. The sucker-mouthed
critters are the ones that clean large, flat leaves like Amazon swords.
Otocinclus catfish, for example. Or snails. (Just don't get the kind that eat
plants!) Bristlenose pleco. (Don't get an ordinary pleco -- they get too
large.)


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/