I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


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"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris




Hi Chris,

I run CO2 (pressurized system) 24/7 and have not experienced what you have
described. (It's not DIY though)

--
Marvin
hlavac (at) rogers (dot) com

How big is your tank? If its small there might be yeast somehow ending up
in the tank and giving the tank a yeast infection. Probably best not to use
Co2 on tanks less than 80l(~20g?). Make sure the Co2 is above the waterline
esp if you don't have a check valve. Fertilisers added in the morning do
make the water a bit cloudy initially but shouldn't be milky as you
described. Is it an established tank ie you've have it set up for three or
more months. Anything less and the tank could still be cycling.

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


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It's a 5 gallon tank that is established (approx 3 months). I've been
running CO2 for about 6-8 weeks now and haven't seen ANYTHING like
this before.

The 1L reactor bottle is sitting on the same shelf as the tank...no
check valve...although, I DO have own; just never installed it.

I wondered also if there was yeast solution getting into the tank
somehow, but I don't see how.

Along that same line of thought....the last solution I made, I forgot
to add the baking soda and also hooked up the bottle right away after
making it. The bottle is always very active and gives a very
irregular CO2 flow rate for the first 2-3 days.
I noticed that the rate seemed excessive and took a measurement....CO2
was approx. 50-60 ppm!!

I unhooked the bottle and let it sit until it calmed down. I then
hooked it back up. It was right about this time when this whole
problem started.

Possibly during that period of very high flow some yeast was carried
into the water?
If so, how do I attack a yeast infection in the tank?
I've done several LARGE water changes...like I'd said, the next day,
it starts looking cloudy/milky again.

Chris

On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:07:32 +1100, "Tasslehoff"
wrote:

How big is your tank? If its small there might be yeast somehow ending up
in the tank and giving the tank a yeast infection. Probably best not to use
Co2 on tanks less than 80l(~20g?). Make sure the Co2 is above the waterline
esp if you don't have a check valve. Fertilisers added in the morning do
make the water a bit cloudy initially but shouldn't be milky as you
described. Is it an established tank ie you've have it set up for three or
more months. Anything less and the tank could still be cycling.

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


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-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----

I see, I'm no expert on this but I'm fairly sure it's not a good idea
injecting Co2 into a tank this size. The PH swings alone will be seriously
stressing your fish and will be much more noticeable esp at the start and
end of the life of the mixture. 50-60 ppm is probably screwing up your
fishes ability to breathe ie perm damage to their gills. If you're really
determined to use CO2 try and aim for 1 bubble about every 10-14 seconds. ie
kill the yeast, maybe 1/10th teaspoon?

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
It's a 5 gallon tank that is established (approx 3 months). I've been
running CO2 for about 6-8 weeks now and haven't seen ANYTHING like
this before.

The 1L reactor bottle is sitting on the same shelf as the tank...no
check valve...although, I DO have own; just never installed it.

I wondered also if there was yeast solution getting into the tank
somehow, but I don't see how.

Along that same line of thought....the last solution I made, I forgot
to add the baking soda and also hooked up the bottle right away after
making it. The bottle is always very active and gives a very
irregular CO2 flow rate for the first 2-3 days.
I noticed that the rate seemed excessive and took a measurement....CO2
was approx. 50-60 ppm!!

I unhooked the bottle and let it sit until it calmed down. I then
hooked it back up. It was right about this time when this whole
problem started.

Possibly during that period of very high flow some yeast was carried
into the water?
If so, how do I attack a yeast infection in the tank?
I've done several LARGE water changes...like I'd said, the next day,
it starts looking cloudy/milky again.

Chris

On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:07:32 +1100, "Tasslehoff"
wrote:

How big is your tank? If its small there might be yeast somehow ending
up
in the tank and giving the tank a yeast infection. Probably best not to
use
Co2 on tanks less than 80l(~20g?). Make sure the Co2 is above the
waterline
esp if you don't have a check valve. Fertilisers added in the morning do
make the water a bit cloudy initially but shouldn't be milky as you
described. Is it an established tank ie you've have it set up for three
or
more months. Anything less and the tank could still be cycling.

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News
==----------
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-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers
=-----

With my regular recipe, after the bottle has calmed down, I get 1
bubble/2-3 sec. Thru testing, I regularly get CO2 levels of 22-27ppm.
Right where it should be.
I totally understand what you're saying about the pH fluctuations tho.

I plan on migrating everything to a 10 gal. pretty soon.

Chris

On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:21:14 +1100, "Tasslehoff"
wrote:

I see, I'm no expert on this but I'm fairly sure it's not a good idea
injecting Co2 into a tank this size. The PH swings alone will be seriously
stressing your fish and will be much more noticeable esp at the start and
end of the life of the mixture. 50-60 ppm is probably screwing up your
fishes ability to breathe ie perm damage to their gills. If you're really
determined to use CO2 try and aim for 1 bubble about every 10-14 seconds. ie
kill the yeast, maybe 1/10th teaspoon?

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
It's a 5 gallon tank that is established (approx 3 months). I've been
running CO2 for about 6-8 weeks now and haven't seen ANYTHING like
this before.

The 1L reactor bottle is sitting on the same shelf as the tank...no
check valve...although, I DO have own; just never installed it.

I wondered also if there was yeast solution getting into the tank
somehow, but I don't see how.

Along that same line of thought....the last solution I made, I forgot
to add the baking soda and also hooked up the bottle right away after
making it. The bottle is always very active and gives a very
irregular CO2 flow rate for the first 2-3 days.
I noticed that the rate seemed excessive and took a measurement....CO2
was approx. 50-60 ppm!!

I unhooked the bottle and let it sit until it calmed down. I then
hooked it back up. It was right about this time when this whole
problem started.

Possibly during that period of very high flow some yeast was carried
into the water?
If so, how do I attack a yeast infection in the tank?
I've done several LARGE water changes...like I'd said, the next day,
it starts looking cloudy/milky again.

Chris

On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 15:07:32 +1100, "Tasslehoff"
wrote:

How big is your tank? If its small there might be yeast somehow ending
up
in the tank and giving the tank a yeast infection. Probably best not to
use
Co2 on tanks less than 80l(~20g?). Make sure the Co2 is above the
waterline
esp if you don't have a check valve. Fertilisers added in the morning do
make the water a bit cloudy initially but shouldn't be milky as you
described. Is it an established tank ie you've have it set up for three
or
more months. Anything less and the tank could still be cycling.

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


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==----------
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-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers
=-----




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Well, whatever was happening appears to be gone.

After turning off the CO2 at night for about 3 nights straight, the
cloudy water is gone even with the CO2 being ON at night now.

hmm.....I guess the new diatom filter I bought will come in handy
*some* day

Chris


On Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:21:42 -0500, RifRaf wrote:

I've been fighting what I *think* is a bacterial bloom for abour the
last 1.5 weeks.

The water looks milky and even after large water changes goes back to
being cloudy after about a day.

A pattern I noticed tho was that the water steadily got clearer
througout the day and then in the mornings when I turned the light on,
the water was MUCH cloudier...again.

So...as an experiement, I unplugged my DIY CO2 at night when turning
off the lights.

In the mornings, it's still as clear as the end of the previous day
(which usually ended up looking fairly decent).

So...is there a connection here between running the CO2 at night and
it somehow contributing to the cloudy water?

Chris


-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
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-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----



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I find that in small tanks the best way to inject DIY CO2 is to use the
upturned bell method rather than an airstone, powerhead or other method. This
way, once you figure out the right size of bell to get, say 25ppm of CO2, your
levels will not go much higher than this, even at the start of a new yeast
bottle. I do this on a ten gallon, and never see the level above 25ppm. At
the start of a new bottle, the excess CO2 just bubbles out of the cup and
doesn't have time to dissolve into the water (these bubbles tend to be big,
like an inch in diameter).

In article , "Tasslehoff"
wrote:
I see, I'm no expert on this but I'm fairly sure it's not a good idea
injecting Co2 into a tank this size. The PH swings alone will be seriously
stressing your fish and will be much more noticeable esp at the start and
end of the life of the mixture. 50-60 ppm is probably screwing up your
fishes ability to breathe ie perm damage to their gills. If you're really
determined to use CO2 try and aim for 1 bubble about every 10-14 seconds. ie
kill the yeast, maybe 1/10th teaspoon?



__
"Insert witty comment here."
-John

What I'd love to be able to find is some sort of self regulating
device that would automatically 'bleed off' any excess CO2 pressure.

This way, when the bottle is new, the extra pressure being generated
would just be bled off and never even make it into the tank.

In the meantime....CO2 levels are back down where they should be.
Cloudy water has cleared up.
I also have a diatom filter now and am ready for the next cloudy water
outbreak

Chris


On Mon, 16 Dec 2002 02:40:57 GMT, (redled) wrote:

I find that in small tanks the best way to inject DIY CO2 is to use the
upturned bell method rather than an airstone, powerhead or other method. This
way, once you figure out the right size of bell to get, say 25ppm of CO2, your
levels will not go much higher than this, even at the start of a new yeast
bottle. I do this on a ten gallon, and never see the level above 25ppm. At
the start of a new bottle, the excess CO2 just bubbles out of the cup and
doesn't have time to dissolve into the water (these bubbles tend to be big,
like an inch in diameter).

In article , "Tasslehoff"
wrote:
I see, I'm no expert on this but I'm fairly sure it's not a good idea
injecting Co2 into a tank this size. The PH swings alone will be seriously
stressing your fish and will be much more noticeable esp at the start and
end of the life of the mixture. 50-60 ppm is probably screwing up your
fishes ability to breathe ie perm damage to their gills. If you're really
determined to use CO2 try and aim for 1 bubble about every 10-14 seconds. ie
kill the yeast, maybe 1/10th teaspoon?



__
"Insert witty comment here."
-John



-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
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-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----

If you use the bell method, the excess CO2 WILL bleed of into the atmosphere
rather than the tank because the bubbles are forced out of the bell and
right to the tank surface.

"RifRaf" wrote in message
...
What I'd love to be able to find is some sort of self regulating
device that would automatically 'bleed off' any excess CO2 pressure.

This way, when the bottle is new, the extra pressure being generated
would just be bled off and never even make it into the tank.

In the meantime....CO2 levels are back down where they should be.
Cloudy water has cleared up.
I also have a diatom filter now and am ready for the next cloudy water
outbreak

Chris


On Mon, 16 Dec 2002 02:40:57 GMT, (redled) wrote:

I find that in small tanks the best way to inject DIY CO2 is to use the
upturned bell method rather than an airstone, powerhead or other method.
This
way, once you figure out the right size of bell to get, say 25ppm of CO2,
your
levels will not go much higher than this, even at the start of a new
yeast
bottle. I do this on a ten gallon, and never see the level above 25ppm.
At
the start of a new bottle, the excess CO2 just bubbles out of the cup and
doesn't have time to dissolve into the water (these bubbles tend to be
big,
like an inch in diameter).

In article , "Tasslehoff"
wrote:
I see, I'm no expert on this but I'm fairly sure it's not a good idea
injecting Co2 into a tank this size. The PH swings alone will be
seriously
stressing your fish and will be much more noticeable esp at the start
and
end of the life of the mixture. 50-60 ppm is probably screwing up your
fishes ability to breathe ie perm damage to their gills. If you're
really
determined to use CO2 try and aim for 1 bubble about every 10-14
seconds. ie
kill the yeast, maybe 1/10th teaspoon?



__
"Insert witty comment here."
-John



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