Hau kolas..any effective way to calculate CO2 in a tank with high phosphates? Being as the consensus seems to be phosphates
invalidate the standard kh-ph-co2 charts, is there another formula? Can't find anything on the web. Looking at phosphate
removing media, but hand-in-hand with that, how much phosphate actually need be present to invalidate those charts? TIA

lila pilamaya


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A lot more than 2-3ppm PO4.

Do not use PO4 remover.
Do not use acid reducing pH control powders etc also.

You will not have any such issues with pH/KH/CO2 issues from PO4 from
then on.

Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com

wrote in message oups.com...
A lot more than 2-3ppm PO4.

Do not use PO4 remover.
Do not use acid reducing pH control powders etc also.

You will not have any such issues with pH/KH/CO2 issues from PO4 from
then on.

Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com

Well that's just it..don't know where the PO4 is coming from, must be food. Tap water tests at .5ppm, but tank water is
routinely tested at 5-10ppm across a spectrum of tanks, community, species, planted/nonplanted, CO2injected, ,some with
Flourish Excel instead. . A turtle tank tests at 1.0ppm. Tanks were buffered with seachem alkaline buffer, but I discontinued
that about a month ago to see if that's what it was, to no avail. I just don't know how, even if it were the food, how that
much PO4 could "accumulate" in any given tank. I ordered some potassium supplement, have not been fertilizing plants at all
yet..would adding K help with PO4 uptake? And is 5-10ppm enough to be a "a lot more" causing interference with kh/ph/co2
charts? TIA

lila pilamaya



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No, if you do water changes, say 50% weekly, the PO4 can never exceed
2x the weekly dosing.

If you don't do regular weekly water changes, then....well, of course
things build up.

If the tank is 5-10ppm of NO3, then howe can you have more PO4?

I suspect bad test kits, don't fret, it's a very common problem and
misconception that test kits are accurate, with NO3 and PO4 being the
worst of the them.

5ppm will not throw off the charts too much, tap water might have some
non bicaronate alkalinity the reads on your test kit.

KH is defined as carbonate alkalinity.

All test kits sold for the hobby are total alkalinity.
Generally they are correct, but often, depending on the tap, they can
be way off.

Many folks simply/progressively slowly add more CO2 each day till they
see fish stess and back off a tad.

I'm sure you can add more based on what you have said.
You can still use the charts also, just add the gas to the tap water
and see what combo you have and then measure the tank's KH.

Adjust for the difference, which is relative.

Say the tap KH is 5, say the tank is 8.
Adjust the pH based on 5, not 8.

This might work for you.
If not, try the slowly adding more method.
Make sure you have some slight surface movement.


regards,
Tom Barr


www.BarrReport.com