wrote in message ...
Are the twist ties Ok to use? won't they constrict the width of the
stems? I used them and now I'm think maybe I better either losen them
or use something else.


Wed, 22 Jun 2005 12:13:37 -0400, "Al Reid"
wrote:


I have never used twine and I guess it would work. I have used the spools of twist-tie as well However, I usually collect old
bed
sheets, etc. and cut/tear into strips. I think the cloth ties work better and don't cut into the plant.


I really wasn't real happy with them on tomatoes. They would break or come untied or, if not really careful they would cut into the
stem. If I got them tight enough to do any good, later as the stem got thicker it would cut into it. I never lost a plant because
of it, but I just wasn't happy with them. The cloth was easier to get off at the end of the season and are re-usable.

"Dave" wrote:

This year I planted my tomatoes in holes filled with mulch and as a
result I'm getting bigger plants than I am used to. The problem is
keeping them tied up. I need so much material to tie them that I have
started using twine rather than the traditonal cloth strips torn from
old sheets. Is twine the standard for those who don't use cages?

Thanks

I use old stockings. I managed to get a bag full last year for about
$1.00. We use 5' cages but some branches manage to escape and if you
try to put back in, they break. Besides if you get all of the
branches inside the cage, the plant can collapse.

--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral, 48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

DigitalVinyl wrote:

A well designed cage works great, almost no maintenance, just poke the
growing tips back inside.

An example...
http://www.gardenerssupply.com/Shopp...&RecGroupNum=1
I found them slightly cheaper elsewhere, but you could build similar.

I let my tomatoes grow wild, no pruning. I end up with 6-7 foot tall 2
foot wide bushes. The ones by the porch steps I actually ran string
down to the cage and they grew up the string after filling the
cage--then I had to tie them. But if I have to tie a few vines that
are 9-10 feet in the air I'll struggle with that extra work.

The trick is large openings on the cage. I have big hands and getting
to any fruit has never been an issue. I see my landlord's staked
tomatoes. He pinches, ties them, they sag, they droop. Eventually he
just leaves them however they are. Never an issue with these
particualr cages.

And they are folding and re-usable. They were worth the investment.
I'm looking at buying another four this year to deal with my expanded
garden.

That's the kind that I have. I just finding tying easier. To each their
own I guess.

--
Steve
Ever notice that putting the and IRS together makes "theirs"?

Steve Calvin wrote:

DigitalVinyl wrote:

A well designed cage works great, almost no maintenance, just poke the
growing tips back inside.

An example...
http://www.gardenerssupply.com/Shopp...&RecGroupNum=1
I found them slightly cheaper elsewhere, but you could build similar.

I let my tomatoes grow wild, no pruning. I end up with 6-7 foot tall 2
foot wide bushes. The ones by the porch steps I actually ran string
down to the cage and they grew up the string after filling the
cage--then I had to tie them. But if I have to tie a few vines that
are 9-10 feet in the air I'll struggle with that extra work.

The trick is large openings on the cage. I have big hands and getting
to any fruit has never been an issue. I see my landlord's staked
tomatoes. He pinches, ties them, they sag, they droop. Eventually he
just leaves them however they are. Never an issue with these
particualr cages.

And they are folding and re-usable. They were worth the investment.
I'm looking at buying another four this year to deal with my expanded
garden.

That's the kind that I have. I just finding tying easier. To each their
own I guess.

Do you pinch out a lot?
That's why I went with cages. First year I tried to stake and the
thing was growing so fast and flushing out, i really didn't like the
idea of pinching out so much. I'm sure people probalby get larger
tomatoes with pinching/staking

To me,I don't think you can stake/tie without managing the growth of
the plant regualrly and limitng it to the one or two vines per stake.
Also my stakes are only about 6 feet, too small for tomatoes. My
landlord pinches/stakes and I outproduce him, though he gets some
larger tomatoes.

I also used two of these cages at either end of a garden bed. In
between I ran bamboo and string for beans to climb up, which worked
well for me. SO their stability acted as supports for more than my
tomatoes.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph

Dave wrote:

This year I planted my tomatoes in holes filled with mulch and as a
result I'm getting bigger plants than I am used to. The problem is
keeping them tied up. I need so much material to tie them that I have
started using twine rather than the traditonal cloth strips torn from
old sheets. Is twine the standard for those who don't use cages?

Thanks


For me, no I don't use twine. I use the twist ties from the garbage bag
boxes and sometimes yarn.

DigitalVinyl wrote:


Do you pinch out a lot?
That's why I went with cages. First year I tried to stake and the
thing was growing so fast and flushing out, i really didn't like the
idea of pinching out so much. I'm sure people probalby get larger
tomatoes with pinching/staking

To me,I don't think you can stake/tie without managing the growth of
the plant regualrly and limitng it to the one or two vines per stake.
Also my stakes are only about 6 feet, too small for tomatoes. My
landlord pinches/stakes and I outproduce him, though he gets some
larger tomatoes.

Nah, I just kind of tie 'em so that they stay up and not laying all over
the ground. I'm not real big into snipping, pruning, etc. I just don't
want 'em laying on the ground.
--
Steve
Ever notice that putting the and IRS together makes "theirs"?

On 2005-06-22 09:06:07 -0700, "Dave" said:

This year I planted my tomatoes in holes filled with mulch and as a
result I'm getting bigger plants than I am used to. The problem is
keeping them tied up. I need so much material to tie them that I have
started using twine rather than the traditonal cloth strips torn from
old sheets. Is twine the standard for those who don't use cages?

Thanks

I use cut rubber bands for my tying, that way there's some stretch to
it before it starts to impede the plant...

- gulash

The Cook writes:
I use old stockings. I managed to get a bag full last year for about
$1.00. We use 5' cages but some branches manage to escape and if you

I made ties by cutting up the plastic carry-bags that every shop gives
you. Slice a plastic bag into 1"-wide strips to make a lot of soft ties.
Try stretching one of the strips to see how strong they can be. The bags
aren't biodegradable so the strips last a season in the sun.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

"Dana Schultz" wrote in message
...
[...]

And just where are you getting 10' tomato plants? My season must be way
too
short.


Here's my method for dealing with 10' vines..
http://www.easternuswx.com/bb/upload...1119538743.jpg

I use cages for my tomatoes but for other plants such as clematis I use
velcro. Just cut it to length and stick it on.
I found it works great for a broken stem. Just cut a small piece and wrap it
tightly to the stem. They mend very nicely on their own.
The velcro is re-useable year after year and if a piece is too short stick
two together. I love it.

And just where are you getting 10' tomato plants? My season must be way too
short.

--
Dana
www3.sympatico.ca/lostmermaid
"mr gulash" wrote in message
news:2005062416062716807%hi@therenet...
On 2005-06-22 09:06:07 -0700, "Dave" said:

This year I planted my tomatoes in holes filled with mulch and as a
result I'm getting bigger plants than I am used to. The problem is
keeping them tied up. I need so much material to tie them that I have
started using twine rather than the traditonal cloth strips torn from
old sheets. Is twine the standard for those who don't use cages?

Thanks

I use cut rubber bands for my tying, that way there's some stretch to
it before it starts to impede the plant...

- gulash

"John Savage" wrote in message
om...
The Cook writes:
I use old stockings. I managed to get a bag full last year for about
$1.00. We use 5' cages but some branches manage to escape and if you

I made ties by cutting up the plastic carry-bags that every shop gives
you. Slice a plastic bag into 1"-wide strips to make a lot of soft ties.
Try stretching one of the strips to see how strong they can be. The bags
aren't biodegradable so the strips last a season in the sun.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

I have built cages withc concrete reinforcement material. Cages are about
24" x 5' tall. Stake the cages with with rebar and tie wraps. Periodically
put vertical reinforcement skewers as they grew taller. Probably twice per
plant... Built a structure out of schedule 40 and covered with netting and
tie wraps..

The result is healthy plants to 10' for the indeterminates, No birds to peck
and ruin.. We are doing everything we can (freeze, can, dry and cook) to
keep up with them!!!

I also cage my peppers a nd cucumbers.

What a bumper crop.

Kurt,

Wht you wrote is so interesting but I don't understand 1/2 of it.

First, what is concrete reinforcement material? Do mean ready mix
concrete or tht wire mesh they use?

What does stake the cages mean?

What is rebar?

Vertical Reinforcment skewers; I assume are stakes and you use two
per plant?

What is schedule 40?

What ere the indeterminates?

You say you cage peppers and cukes, and I can see why, but I guess you
make them lower than whatever you made for the tomatoes. Is that
correct? I just can't envision what you made. I'm new to this and
don't understand all the terminology.

Are your cages enclosed at the top and if not, how do you keep the
birds out?



On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 13:17:42 GMT, "kurtk" wrote:


"John Savage" wrote in message
news:050625000104917.25Jun05$rookswood@suburbian. com...
The Cook writes:
I use old stockings. I managed to get a bag full last year for about
$1.00. We use 5' cages but some branches manage to escape and if you

I made ties by cutting up the plastic carry-bags that every shop gives
you. Slice a plastic bag into 1"-wide strips to make a lot of soft ties.
Try stretching one of the strips to see how strong they can be. The bags
aren't biodegradable so the strips last a season in the sun.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

I have built cages withc concrete reinforcement material. Cages are about
24" x 5' tall. Stake the cages with with rebar and tie wraps. Periodically
put vertical reinforcement skewers as they grew taller. Probably twice per
plant... Built a structure out of schedule 40 and covered with netting and
tie wraps..

The result is healthy plants to 10' for the indeterminates, No birds to peck
and ruin.. We are doing everything we can (freeze, can, dry and cook) to
keep up with them!!!

I also cage my peppers a nd cucumbers.

What a bumper crop.

wrote in message
...
Kurt,

Wht you wrote is so interesting but I don't understand 1/2 of it.

First, what is concrete reinforcement material? Do mean ready mix
concrete or tht wire mesh they use?

Wire mesh w/ ~6" squares. You generally have to buy it in rolls at the HD

What does stake the cages mean?
What is rebar?

Stake the cages with rebar into the ground so they are sturdy and can
withstand the elements. Rebar is another material used for reinforcing
concrete. It is available right next to the mesh



Vertical Reinforcment skewers; I assume are stakes and you use two
per plant?

My bad, horizontal reinforcement skewers. I place them horizonrtally in the
cages and bind with tie wraps. I then use pantyhose material and tie the
tomato stalks to them.



What is schedule 40?

Schedule 40 PVC pipe. Makes a dandy structure to accomodate mesh material to
keep the birds out.

What ere the indeterminates?

Indeterminate tomatoes are actually vines that continue growing in length
throughout the growing season. Also referred to as "vining" tomatoes,
indeterminate tomato varieties will also continue to set and ripen fruit
until killed off by frost.



You say you cage peppers and cukes, and I can see why, but I guess you
make them lower than whatever you made for the tomatoes. Is that
correct? I just can't envision what you made. I'm new to this and
don't understand all the terminology.

Nope, cages are all the same size.



Are your cages enclosed at the top and if not, how do you keep the
birds out?

I made the structure out of sch 40 and cover with netting.

I will be glad to send photos.


Kurt



On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 13:17:42 GMT, "kurtk" wrote:


"John Savage" wrote in message
news:050625000104917.25Jun05$rookswood@suburbian .com...
The Cook writes:
I use old stockings. I managed to get a bag full last year for about
$1.00. We use 5' cages but some branches manage to escape and if you

I made ties by cutting up the plastic carry-bags that every shop gives
you. Slice a plastic bag into 1"-wide strips to make a lot of soft ties.
Try stretching one of the strips to see how strong they can be. The bags
aren't biodegradable so the strips last a season in the sun.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

I have built cages withc concrete reinforcement material. Cages are about
24" x 5' tall. Stake the cages with with rebar and tie wraps. Periodically
put vertical reinforcement skewers as they grew taller. Probably twice per
plant... Built a structure out of schedule 40 and covered with netting and
tie wraps..

The result is healthy plants to 10' for the indeterminates, No birds to
peck
and ruin.. We are doing everything we can (freeze, can, dry and cook) to
keep up with them!!!

I also cage my peppers a nd cucumbers.

What a bumper crop.

Use cotton twine or velcro ties.
Keep the stalks close to the post you are tying them on, or the weight will
be hanging so far from the support that the first storm will tump them over.
That's what happened to us this year.
Hurrican season down here.


--
Garland Grower
Home garden is about 50 sq ft.
7a-8b Garland TX
My big garden is 1500 sq. ft.
8b East TX near Gilmer


"Dave" wrote in message
oups.com...
This year I planted my tomatoes in holes filled with mulch and as a
result I'm getting bigger plants than I am used to. The problem is
keeping them tied up. I need so much material to tie them that I have
started using twine rather than the traditonal cloth strips torn from
old sheets. Is twine the standard for those who don't use cages?

Thanks

I would love to use cages, but here they would have to be 8 ft. tall and I'm
not sure I want to store 20--8ft tall cages made out of rebar all winter
long. The only tomatos we have that were around 4 ft. tall are the Romas.


--
Garland Grower
Home garden is about 50 sq ft.
7a-8b Garland TX
My big garden is 1500 sq. ft.
8b East TX near Gilmer


"gonzo" wrote in message
ups.com...
I use cages made from concrete reinforcing wire panels, they stand
about 4 feet tall. The openings in the cage is big enough to sneak
hands in, fruit out. No tying required, just tuck the odd branch back
into the cage. Makes a great mini-greenhouse for early starts. I have
mine wired up as cages, so need room for storage. Could store these
guys flat though.

Plants are pouring out the top by mid-season, and I don't have to worry
about taking care of them.. as long as the cage is secured to not tip
over!