Hi Folks:
I like in the hills of Jersey and have been growing tomatos in
pots. Specs on the tomatos: Park's Whopper Improved VFFNT
They are not very high at this point, maybe two feet, but they're
producing many tomatos! Even while red, they are hard to pull off..
Not BIG tomatos, maybe 3" dia max.
The tap water here is from a well, the PH is around 7.4, but the
Phosphorus is WAY HIGH! In fact, way out of range. I tried to do a
soil test of the yard soil, using the well water, which at first led
me to believe the soilwas Phosphorus rich. I switched to distilled
water, and found the soil lacking in phosphorus and nitrogen, but
absent of potash. This is why I'm potting, and with potting soil from
the store.
The beans and sunflowers are doing great, but the tomatos seem to
be having a problem with something. I've captured rain water when I
can, but that doesn't last too long. I put this well water in a wheel
barrow to vent a bit, and use that.. This collects mosquitos around
this time..
Everything else seems to be fine with this water, but I've even
tried Miracle Grow for Tomatos, which might have even hurt!!
The leaves have started yellowing, mainly around the bottom, and
when they 'like' the water or what ever, they spring-up quickly, but
still yellow.. Now they seem to be dropping green tomatos with
blemishs on the bottom.
Is there any special conditions I should be giving to tomatos, as
opposed to other plants?
Thanks!
Harry

(harry) wrote in message . com...
Hi Folks:
I like in the hills of Jersey and have been growing tomatos in
pots. Specs on the tomatos: Park's Whopper Improved VFFNT
They are not very high at this point, maybe two feet, but they're
producing many tomatos! Even while red, they are hard to pull off..
Not BIG tomatos, maybe 3" dia max.
The tap water here is from a well, the PH is around 7.4, but the
Phosphorus is WAY HIGH! In fact, way out of range. I tried to do a
soil test of the yard soil, using the well water, which at first led
me to believe the soilwas Phosphorus rich. I switched to distilled
water, and found the soil lacking in phosphorus and nitrogen, but
absent of potash. This is why I'm potting, and with potting soil from
the store.
The beans and sunflowers are doing great, but the tomatos seem to
be having a problem with something. I've captured rain water when I
can, but that doesn't last too long. I put this well water in a wheel
barrow to vent a bit, and use that.. This collects mosquitos around
this time..
Everything else seems to be fine with this water, but I've even
tried Miracle Grow for Tomatos, which might have even hurt!!
The leaves have started yellowing, mainly around the bottom, and
when they 'like' the water or what ever, they spring-up quickly, but
still yellow.. Now they seem to be dropping green tomatos with
blemishs on the bottom.
Is there any special conditions I should be giving to tomatos, as
opposed to other plants?
Thanks!
Harry

If the leaves are turning solid yellow, as opposed to yellow and brown
blotches(blights), you may have simple choriosis, or yellowing, from
overwatering. The blemishes on the bottom of your tomatoes is Blossom
End Rot (BER we call it here). It is caused by a problem with calcium
uptake. The uptake problem can be caused by too much watering, too
little watering, inconsistent watering or calcium poor soil. If the
weather is dry, I adjust my watering schedule to the high temperature
for the day. For example, if highs are only in the 70's weekly
watering will usually suffice. In the 80's, twice weekly. When the
temps reach the 90's, as they usually do here, I water every other
day. If we get a serious heat wave with 100+, I then water daily.

Lee Hall
Zone 6B - Tennessee

(Lee Hall) wrote in message
If the leaves are turning solid yellow, as opposed to yellow and brown
blotches(blights), you may have simple choriosis, or yellowing, from
overwatering. The blemishes on the bottom of your tomatoes is Blossom
End Rot (BER we call it here). It is caused by a problem with calcium
uptake. The uptake problem can be caused by too much watering, too
little watering, inconsistent watering or calcium poor soil. If the
weather is dry, I adjust my watering schedule to the high temperature
for the day. For example, if highs are only in the 70's weekly
watering will usually suffice. In the 80's, twice weekly. When the
temps reach the 90's, as they usually do here, I water every other
day. If we get a serious heat wave with 100+, I then water daily.


What is your definition of watering? This sounds way too often unless
you are just dampening the top layer of soil (few inches).
steve

(steve) wrote in message . com...
(Lee Hall) wrote in message
If the leaves are turning solid yellow, as opposed to yellow and brown
blotches(blights), you may have simple choriosis, or yellowing, from
overwatering. The blemishes on the bottom of your tomatoes is Blossom
End Rot (BER we call it here). It is caused by a problem with calcium
uptake. The uptake problem can be caused by too much watering, too
little watering, inconsistent watering or calcium poor soil. If the
weather is dry, I adjust my watering schedule to the high temperature
for the day. For example, if highs are only in the 70's weekly
watering will usually suffice. In the 80's, twice weekly. When the
temps reach the 90's, as they usually do here, I water every other
day. If we get a serious heat wave with 100+, I then water daily.


What is your definition of watering? This sounds way too often unless
you are just dampening the top layer of soil (few inches).
steve


I don't have my own definition of watering, just my own method. I
water with a garden hose and use Auto-Maters. I normally fill them
about 3 times, less if they are showing signs of saturation. I would
estimate that it works out to about a gallon per plant. I have used
this same watering method, with and without the Auto-Maters for 35
years or so. It seems to work fine as I never see choriosis or plants
about to keel over in the heat.

On 31 Jul 2003 14:04:53 -0700, (harry) wrote in
rec.gardens.edible:

The leaves have started yellowing, mainly around the bottom, and
when they 'like' the water or what ever, they spring-up quickly, but
still yellow.. Now they seem to be dropping green tomatos with
blemishs on the bottom.

Stick your finger in the soil. If the soil is dry then water, if not dry then
leave it alone.
--
Gardening Zones
Canada Zone 5a
United States Zone 3a
Near Ottawa, Ontario

On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 10:44:10 -0400, Jim Carter wrote in
rec.gardens.edible:

Stick your finger in the soil.

Sorry. Stick your finger in the soil about 3 inches. etc.
--
Gardening Zones
Canada Zone 5a
United States Zone 3a
Near Ottawa, Ontario

(Lee Hall) wrote in message What is your definition of watering? This sounds way too often unless
you are just dampening the top layer of soil (few inches).
steve


I don't have my own definition of watering, just my own method. I
water with a garden hose and use Auto-Maters. I normally fill them
about 3 times, less if they are showing signs of saturation. I would
estimate that it works out to about a gallon per plant. I have used
this same watering method, with and without the Auto-Maters for 35
years or so. It seems to work fine as I never see choriosis or plants
about to keel over in the heat.

Oh, ok, thats fine, some people have different ideas about watering, I
water maybe once or twice a season, but its an all night event. I also
have 6 inches of mulch and good drainage so it all works for me. But
you can imagine that a once a day watering system seems pretty foreign
to me.