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#16
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songbird writes: Drew Lawson wrote: ... Sounds a lot like field onion, which has been a common weed most places that I've had a garden. Time and frustration just brought me to accept that what I dug up was "most of it." Also, unless the compost gets really hot, they'll survive that as well. it is definitely not onion. hardneck garlic. very hot, very good. I was unclear (again). I did not mean to suggest that it is onion, just that they have similar persistence. -- Drew Lawson | "But the senator, while insisting he was not | intoxicated, could not explain his nudity." |
#17
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Drew Lawson wrote:
.... I was unclear (again). I did not mean to suggest that it is onion, just that they have similar persistence. oh, ok. ![]() i made sure the first clump i took out was dried out yesterday by spreading it out on a garden sheet. made it easy to pick them back up (and the dirt that falls off 'em) when the day was done. i think only a few bulbules rolled away. songbird |
#18
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T wrote:
.... It is about four foot long and 14 inches wide. It is about 12 to 14" deep and back filled with peat moss and original dirt, plug chicken poop based fertilizer. The trough itself does drain, but takes hours. I water every other day. that may be too often, maybe twice a week would be enough or even once a week (depending upon how well the soil there holds the moisture). The trench is slightly below ground level so I can water and not have it run all over the place. I have five shallots growing like crazy in it right now. This is their second feral year. Oh and the green onion (scallions) nubs have starting growing. Go figure. ![]() The garlic marbles are still dormant. did you plant these recently? the garlic here grows almost all year if given a chance. the only time it stops is right after the tops die back in the middle of the hot summer, then it will start to put out roots once there are any rains and you can see it start growing again in the fall. some winters it will stay green under the snow if there is enough snow cover. even with the ground freezing solid down well below the root zone it will still survive and come back once we get some warmer late winter/early spring days. i'm talking about the garlic that is left in the ground. the bulbs that i lift and divide to replant or give away or eat don't get replanted until Sept/Oct so they won't do much while in cool dark storage. songbird |
#19
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On 7/23/19 6:53 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: ... It is about four foot long and 14 inches wide. It is about 12 to 14" deep and back filled with peat moss and original dirt, plug chicken poop based fertilizer. The trough itself does drain, but takes hours. I water every other day. that may be too often, maybe twice a week would be enough or even once a week (depending upon how well the soil there holds the moisture). The trench is slightly below ground level so I can water and not have it run all over the place. I have five shallots growing like crazy in it right now. This is their second feral year. Oh and the green onion (scallions) nubs have starting growing. Go figure. ![]() The garlic marbles are still dormant. did you plant these recently? Two or three weeks ago. If they come up, I would expect them to show themselves in the spring. the garlic here grows almost all year if given a chance. the only time it stops is right after the tops die back in the middle of the hot summer, That is when I harvest them then it will start to put out roots once there are any rains and you can see it start growing again in the fall. some winters it will stay green under the snow if there is enough snow cover. even with the ground freezing solid down well below the root zone it will still survive and come back once we get some warmer late winter/early spring days. Mine stays green all winter long. It is really something to behold green shoots sticking up above the snow. Gots to get me a few picture of it. i'm talking about the garlic that is left in the ground. the bulbs that i lift and divide to replant or give away or eat don't get replanted until Sept/Oct so they won't do much while in cool dark storage. I am thinking of replanting in a few weeks of so. Thank you! |
#20
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On 7/23/19 6:53 AM, songbird wrote:
that may be too often, maybe twice a week would be enough or even once a week (depending upon how well the soil there holds the moisture). We have 4 to 6% humidity and adiabatic drying winds. I have tested it out. If I don't water every other day, things start to badly wilt on me and I get blossom rot even on my cherry tomatoes. Blossom rot on peppers and eggplant is pathetic looking! |
#21
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T wrote:
.... I am thinking of replanting in a few weeks of so. if it is hot and dry there's no reason to do that until it gets cooler and the rains return. well i guess one reason to do it would be if your storage space is poor and they would be better off in the ground instead of being cooked and dried out in a hot garage or something... you could do an experiment and plant some early and plant some later and compare results. ![]() i have replanted immediately after harvesting here, but we get rain so there is no real risk of dessication. songbird |
#22
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T wrote:
On 7/23/19 6:53 AM, songbird wrote: that may be too often, maybe twice a week would be enough or even once a week (depending upon how well the soil there holds the moisture). We have 4 to 6% humidity and adiabatic drying winds. I have tested it out. If I don't water every other day, things start to badly wilt on me and I get blossom rot even on my cherry tomatoes. Blossom rot on peppers and eggplant is pathetic looking! does your soil contain any clay? usually such poor water retention would be attributable to not having clay. also the general condition of your plantings is that they are in smaller excavated spaces so that is likely a big part of your wilting. the root systems of larger plants in normal garden soil will be about the same size as the plant mass above the ground... (just an FYI ![]() anything you can do to block those winds will also help (as long as they do not block all the light). songbird |
#23
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On 7/24/19 4:37 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: On 7/23/19 6:53 AM, songbird wrote: that may be too often, maybe twice a week would be enough or even once a week (depending upon how well the soil there holds the moisture). We have 4 to 6% humidity and adiabatic drying winds. I have tested it out. If I don't water every other day, things start to badly wilt on me and I get blossom rot even on my cherry tomatoes. Blossom rot on peppers and eggplant is pathetic looking! does your soil contain any clay? usually such poor water retention would be attributable to not having clay. also the general condition of your plantings is that they are in smaller excavated spaces so that is likely a big part of your wilting. the root systems of larger plants in normal garden soil will be about the same size as the plant mass above the ground... (just an FYI ![]() anything you can do to block those winds will also help (as long as they do not block all the light). songbird Our soil is pretty much decomposed sandstone. It is part of an old ancient lake bed. It is mostly round rocks. I have found my ground pots work best if I hack them down to over 18" deep and about that much wide too. It is no easy task. Some of those rocks are pretty big. Smaller ground pots grow smaller plants. Trial and error Got YUGE peppers growing this year! Well, except for one ground pot that I seriously need to dig out next year. Got one pepper that is about 8" long. Last year's best was about 5" long. |
#24
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On 7/24/19 4:33 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: ... I am thinking of replanting in a few weeks of so. if it is hot and dry there's no reason to do that until it gets cooler and the rains return. well i guess one reason to do it would be if your storage space is poor and they would be better off in the ground instead of being cooked and dried out in a hot garage or something... you could do an experiment and plant some early and plant some later and compare results. ![]() i have replanted immediately after harvesting here, but we get rain so there is no real risk of dessication. songbird The heat breaks in late August, so I think I will do as you suggest. |
#25
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On 7/24/19 4:37 AM, songbird wrote:
does your soil contain any clay? It is mineral/rock powder. It does not retain water. I does repel it though. It will eventually sink in, but takes about a half hour of standing. When it dries back out, it is very similar to cement and will throw sparks to a shovel or ax. |
#26
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T wrote:
On 7/24/19 4:37 AM, songbird wrote: does your soil contain any clay? It is mineral/rock powder. It does not retain water. I does repel it though. It will eventually sink in, but takes about a half hour of standing. When it dries back out, it is very similar to cement and will throw sparks to a shovel or ax. organic material and a bit of clay will help keep both water and nutrients in place. songbird |
#27
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On 7/28/19 4:30 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: On 7/24/19 4:37 AM, songbird wrote: does your soil contain any clay? It is mineral/rock powder. It does not retain water. I does repel it though. It will eventually sink in, but takes about a half hour of standing. When it dries back out, it is very similar to cement and will throw sparks to a shovel or ax. organic material and a bit of clay will help keep both water and nutrients in place. songbird Peat moss and organic chicken skat based fertilizer plus back fill (2/3 is rock) seem to be doing the trick |
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