I was at a garden shop in Pittsburgh, and they had a section called
"Pre-Bonsai." Pre-Bonsai at this shop is basically some small junipers,
some trained well, and some plants in from bonsai shops that looked
pretty good.

I bought a Variegated Serissa, Serissa foetida 'variegata', and it looks
like a perfect little tree.

The tag in the dirt says it came originally from New England Bonsai
Gardens, http://www.nebonsai.com.

Does anyone know this plant? Any tips on growing it? Right now it's
showing a few little white flowers.

GK:
This is a tough little tree. In fact I just dug one up that I planted seven years ago, and it is doing well. It has been out doors in zone 6/7 for the seven years.

I treat it as any other tree, other than the fact it does like to be in cooler areas. Hopefully it is in very loose soil. Water only when it is almost dry.

I apologize for the fact the following is in large Caps:


SERISSA foetida KYOTO

CULTIVATION



SITE IN FULL SUN. WARM LOCATION, MINIMUM TEMPERATURE 54 DEGREES. PROTECT FROM COLD AIR.

WATER DAILY DURING GROWING SEASON, MISTSPRAY TO MAINTAIN HIGH HUMIDITY, EXCEPT WHEN IN FLOWER AS DAMPNESS DISCOLORS PETALS. KEEP SOIL RELATIVELY DRY IN WINTER WHEN DAYLIGHT HOURS ARE SHORT. THE PLANT DISLIKES A SUDDEN CHANGE IN LIGHTING (MANY DIE FROM LACK OF LIGHT WHEN BROUGHT INDOORS. AND INDIVIDUAL TREES MAY SHOW DIFFERENT HARDINESS (A SERISSA GROWN INDOORS FROM YOUTH WILL WITHSTAND A GREATER VARIATION IN TEMPERATURE THAN A SERISSA PURCHASED FROM A GREENHOUSE) IF BROUGHT INDOORS, DO NOT PLACE NEAR A HEAT SOURCE OR IT WILL LOSE ITS LEAVES.



FERTILIZE EVERY TWO WEEKS DURING GROWING SEASON, FOUR TO SIX WEEKS IN WINTER. (20-20-20). LIKES SLIGHTLY ACID SOIL CONDITIONS. THE OCCASIONAL ADDITION OF MIRACID IS APPRECIATED.



REPOT EVERY SECOND TO THIRD YEAR IN EARLY SPRING, USE BASIC BONSAI MIX. THE NEWLY PRUNED ROOTS WILL EMIT A WRETCHED ODOR. PRUNE MODERATELY.



TRIM NEW SHOOTS TO ONE OR TWO PAIR OF LEAVES AFTER REPOTTING.



TAKE SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS; THEY ROOT EASILY IN SPRING OR SUMMER.

TRY FOUR INCH CUTTINGS IN A GLASS OF WATER THE MASSES OF WHITE, STAR-LIKE FLOWERS, WHICH BLOOM IN SUMMER, GIVE THIS EVERGREEN SHRUB ITS COMMON NAME “TREE OF A THOUSAND STARS” OR A “SNOW ROSE”, WHILE THE UNPLEASANT ODOR OF ITS ROOTS AND BARK AMPLY JUSTIFY ITS BOTANICAL NAME OF Serissa foetida. NATIVE TO SUB-TROPICAL AREA OF INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN, THE PLANT CAN BE GROWN AS AN INDOOR BONSAI IN TEMPERATE AREAS OF THE WORLD. IT PRODUCES SMALL , SMOOTH GREEN LEAVES, AND THE WHITE FLOWERS CAN BE EITHER SINGLE OR DOUBLE. THERE IS A FORM WITH PURPLE FLOWERS, AS WELL AS ONE WITH VARIEGATED LEAVES.


RED SPIDER MITES, SCALE, WOOLY APHIDS ARE NOT AS MUCH OF A PROBLEM AS A SUDDEN CHANGE OF LIGHT OR TEMPERATURE

Carl L. Rosner

GK wrote:
I was at a garden shop in Pittsburgh, and they had a section called
"Pre-Bonsai." Pre-Bonsai at this shop is basically some small junipers,
some trained well, and some plants in from bonsai shops that looked
pretty good.

I bought a Variegated Serissa, Serissa foetida 'variegata', and it looks
like a perfect little tree.

The tag in the dirt says it came originally from New England Bonsai
Gardens, http://www.nebonsai.com.

Does anyone know this plant? Any tips on growing it? Right now it's
showing a few little white flowers.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7

www.carlrosner.com
http://www.yessy.com/arteacher3725
http://rosner.becanz.net

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Carl:

Thank you for the reply. I also found this information:
http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/serissa.html

Being new to bonsai, I'm hesitant to prune anything, but I realize that
I'll have to learn this eventually.

Here's the recommendation of the page I just cited:

"Pruning and wiring: When in bloom, remove fading flowers to encourage
further flower production. Prune as needed; the Serissa is a fast grower
and may need radical or repeated pruning to maintain its shape. Will bud
back on old wood; in fact, some books recommend occasionally pruning
back beyond old growth to help the plant maintain its shape. Wire during
the growing period. Serissa will grow air roots and is often used in
exposed root or root over rock styles. Eliminate unwanted suckers
extending from the base. Suitable for all styles except formal upright
and broom. Suitable for extra small to medium sizes."

I'm eventually looking for bonsai that will hold up in a high school
classroom environment. I teach a World Religions class, and some hearty
indoor plants would be very nice. I want to care for them properly. In
the classroom the temperature can drop to th 50s at night during the
winter. I've read that some books recommend placing bonsai on heating
pads, water bed heating pads, etc.

Thanks again.

GK

Carl Rosner wrote:
GK:
This is a tough little tree. In fact I just dug one up that I planted seven years ago, and it is doing well. It has been out doors in zone 6/7 for the seven years.

I treat it as any other tree, other than the fact it does like to be in cooler areas. Hopefully it is in very loose soil. Water only when it is almost dry.

I apologize for the fact the following is in large Caps:


SERISSA foetida KYOTO

CULTIVATION



SITE IN FULL SUN. WARM LOCATION, MINIMUM TEMPERATURE 54 DEGREES. PROTECT FROM COLD AIR.

WATER DAILY DURING GROWING SEASON, MISTSPRAY TO MAINTAIN HIGH HUMIDITY, EXCEPT WHEN IN FLOWER AS DAMPNESS DISCOLORS PETALS. KEEP SOIL RELATIVELY DRY IN WINTER WHEN DAYLIGHT HOURS ARE SHORT. THE PLANT DISLIKES A SUDDEN CHANGE IN LIGHTING (MANY DIE FROM LACK OF LIGHT WHEN BROUGHT INDOORS. AND INDIVIDUAL TREES MAY SHOW DIFFERENT HARDINESS (A SERISSA GROWN INDOORS FROM YOUTH WILL WITHSTAND A GREATER VARIATION IN TEMPERATURE THAN A SERISSA PURCHASED FROM A GREENHOUSE) IF BROUGHT INDOORS, DO NOT PLACE NEAR A HEAT SOURCE OR IT WILL LOSE ITS LEAVES.



FERTILIZE EVERY TWO WEEKS DURING GROWING SEASON, FOUR TO SIX WEEKS IN WINTER. (20-20-20). LIKES SLIGHTLY ACID SOIL CONDITIONS. THE OCCASIONAL ADDITION OF MIRACID IS APPRECIATED.



REPOT EVERY SECOND TO THIRD YEAR IN EARLY SPRING, USE BASIC BONSAI MIX. THE NEWLY PRUNED ROOTS WILL EMIT A WRETCHED ODOR. PRUNE MODERATELY.



TRIM NEW SHOOTS TO ONE OR TWO PAIR OF LEAVES AFTER REPOTTING.



TAKE SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS; THEY ROOT EASILY IN SPRING OR SUMMER.

TRY FOUR INCH CUTTINGS IN A GLASS OF WATER THE MASSES OF WHITE, STAR-LIKE FLOWERS, WHICH BLOOM IN SUMMER, GIVE THIS EVERGREEN SHRUB ITS COMMON NAME “TREE OF A THOUSAND STARS” OR A “SNOW ROSE”, WHILE THE UNPLEASANT ODOR OF ITS ROOTS AND BARK AMPLY JUSTIFY ITS BOTANICAL NAME OF Serissa foetida. NATIVE TO SUB-TROPICAL AREA OF INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN, THE PLANT CAN BE GROWN AS AN INDOOR BONSAI IN TEMPERATE AREAS OF THE WORLD. IT PRODUCES SMALL , SMOOTH GREEN LEAVES, AND THE WHITE FLOWERS CAN BE EITHER SINGLE OR DOUBLE. THERE IS A FORM WITH PURPLE FLOWERS, AS WELL AS ONE WITH VARIEGATED LEAVES.


RED SPIDER MITES, SCALE, WOOLY APHIDS ARE NOT AS MUCH OF A PROBLEM AS A SUDDEN CHANGE OF LIGHT OR TEMPERATURE

Carl L. Rosner

GK wrote:
I was at a garden shop in Pittsburgh, and they had a section called
"Pre-Bonsai." Pre-Bonsai at this shop is basically some small junipers,
some trained well, and some plants in from bonsai shops that looked
pretty good.

I bought a Variegated Serissa, Serissa foetida 'variegata', and it looks
like a perfect little tree.

The tag in the dirt says it came originally from New England Bonsai
Gardens, http://www.nebonsai.com.

Does anyone know this plant? Any tips on growing it? Right now it's
showing a few little white flowers.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************

-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --

+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7

www.carlrosner.com
http://www.yessy.com/arteacher3725
http://rosner.becanz.net

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************

-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --

+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

GK
I grew some of my bonsai in my science classroom for many years.
The key factor was light. I set up light that I turned on when I left my
classroom
around 4:30 or 5 PM and turned them off at 7 AM. Some of the lights were
standard grow lights but the best were High Intensity Lights. The intensity
of
these lights grew great bonsai but are harmful when looked into hence using
them
overnight instead of during the day. The HIL also are warm and protect the
bonsai
overnight.
When using light racks with normal fluorescent lights, I dropped a plastic
drop cloth over the
whole rack for weekends...this kept up the humidity and got the trees
through the weekend
without water for two days.
Here is a list of some of the trees that worked best for me under these
conditions.
Note that I always took them home for spring and put them outside once frost
passed...June here.
Also either I or a friendly
maintenance person watered them during school breaks.
Serissa
Ficus
Bucida
Carissa
Hedera
Boxwood
Ulmus
Gardenia

Have fun with them...my students loved them...I always put one on my desk
each day.
Pauline Muth
Zone 4

-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ]On Behalf
Of GK
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 10:20 AM
To:
Subject: [IBC] New Bonsai: Variegated Serissa


Carl:

Thank you for the reply. I also found this information:
http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/serissa.html

Being new to bonsai, I'm hesitant to prune anything, but I realize that
I'll have to learn this eventually.

Here's the recommendation of the page I just cited:

"Pruning and wiring: When in bloom, remove fading flowers to encourage
further flower production. Prune as needed; the Serissa is a fast grower
and may need radical or repeated pruning to maintain its shape. Will bud
back on old wood; in fact, some books recommend occasionally pruning
back beyond old growth to help the plant maintain its shape. Wire during
the growing period. Serissa will grow air roots and is often used in
exposed root or root over rock styles. Eliminate unwanted suckers
extending from the base. Suitable for all styles except formal upright
and broom. Suitable for extra small to medium sizes."

I'm eventually looking for bonsai that will hold up in a high school
classroom environment. I teach a World Religions class, and some hearty
indoor plants would be very nice. I want to care for them properly. In
the classroom the temperature can drop to th 50s at night during the
winter. I've read that some books recommend placing bonsai on heating
pads, water bed heating pads, etc.

Thanks again.

GK

Carl Rosner wrote:
GK:
This is a tough little tree. In fact I just dug one up that I planted
seven years ago, and it is doing well. It has been out doors in zone 6/7
for the seven years.

I treat it as any other tree, other than the fact it does like to be in
cooler areas. Hopefully it is in very loose soil. Water only when it is
almost dry.

I apologize for the fact the following is in large Caps:


SERISSA foetida KYOTO

CULTIVATION



SITE IN FULL SUN. WARM LOCATION, MINIMUM TEMPERATURE 54 DEGREES. PROTECT
FROM COLD AIR.

WATER DAILY DURING GROWING SEASON, MISTSPRAY TO MAINTAIN HIGH HUMIDITY,
EXCEPT WHEN IN FLOWER AS DAMPNESS DISCOLORS PETALS. KEEP SOIL RELATIVELY DRY
IN WINTER WHEN DAYLIGHT HOURS ARE SHORT. THE PLANT DISLIKES A SUDDEN CHANGE
IN LIGHTING (MANY DIE FROM LACK OF LIGHT WHEN BROUGHT INDOORS. AND
INDIVIDUAL TREES MAY SHOW DIFFERENT HARDINESS (A SERISSA GROWN INDOORS FROM
YOUTH WILL WITHSTAND A GREATER VARIATION IN TEMPERATURE THAN A SERISSA
PURCHASED FROM A GREENHOUSE) IF BROUGHT INDOORS, DO NOT PLACE NEAR A HEAT
SOURCE OR IT WILL LOSE ITS LEAVES.



FERTILIZE EVERY TWO WEEKS DURING GROWING SEASON, FOUR TO SIX WEEKS IN
WINTER. (20-20-20). LIKES SLIGHTLY ACID SOIL CONDITIONS. THE OCCASIONAL
ADDITION OF MIRACID IS APPRECIATED.



REPOT EVERY SECOND TO THIRD YEAR IN EARLY SPRING, USE BASIC BONSAI MIX.
THE NEWLY PRUNED ROOTS WILL EMIT A WRETCHED ODOR. PRUNE MODERATELY.



TRIM NEW SHOOTS TO ONE OR TWO PAIR OF LEAVES AFTER REPOTTING.



TAKE SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS; THEY ROOT EASILY IN SPRING OR SUMMER.

TRY FOUR INCH CUTTINGS IN A GLASS OF WATER THE MASSES OF WHITE, STAR-LIKE
FLOWERS, WHICH BLOOM IN SUMMER, GIVE THIS EVERGREEN SHRUB ITS COMMON NAME
“TREE OF A THOUSAND STARS” OR A “SNOW ROSE”, WHILE THE UNPLEASANT ODOR OF
ITS ROOTS AND BARK AMPLY JUSTIFY ITS BOTANICAL NAME OF Serissa foetida.
NATIVE TO SUB-TROPICAL AREA OF INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN, THE PLANT CAN BE
GROWN AS AN INDOOR BONSAI IN TEMPERATE AREAS OF THE WORLD. IT PRODUCES SMALL
, SMOOTH GREEN LEAVES, AND THE WHITE FLOWERS CAN BE EITHER SINGLE OR DOUBLE.
THERE IS A FORM WITH PURPLE FLOWERS, AS WELL AS ONE WITH VARIEGATED LEAVES.


RED SPIDER MITES, SCALE, WOOLY APHIDS ARE NOT AS MUCH OF A PROBLEM AS A
SUDDEN CHANGE OF LIGHT OR TEMPERATURE

Carl L. Rosner

GK wrote:
I was at a garden shop in Pittsburgh, and they had a section called
"Pre-Bonsai." Pre-Bonsai at this shop is basically some small junipers,
some trained well, and some plants in from bonsai shops that looked
pretty good.

I bought a Variegated Serissa, Serissa foetida 'variegata', and it looks
like a perfect little tree.

The tag in the dirt says it came originally from New England Bonsai
Gardens, http://www.nebonsai.com.

Does anyone know this plant? Any tips on growing it? Right now it's
showing a few little white flowers.


************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++

************************************************** **************************
****

-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --

+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7

www.carlrosner.com
http://www.yessy.com/arteacher3725
http://rosner.becanz.net


************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++

************************************************** **************************
****

-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --

+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Pauline:

Can the trees stand that much light? For some reason, I thought the
plants might need darkness, thinking, like animals, they rest. But I
suppose that doesn't make sense.

I've never used High Intensity Lights. Would I just ask for them at
Home Depot or Menards, or should I look for them at a garden specialty
store? Do you have a URL where I could price them online?

Thank you for your reply.

Gary Kopycinski
Chicago, IL
Zone 5

Pauline Muth wrote:
GK
I grew some of my bonsai in my science classroom for many years.
The key factor was light. I set up light that I turned on when I left my
classroom
around 4:30 or 5 PM and turned them off at 7 AM. Some of the lights were
standard grow lights but the best were High Intensity Lights. The intensity
of
these lights grew great bonsai but are harmful when looked into hence using
them
overnight instead of during the day. The HIL also are warm and protect the
bonsai
overnight.
When using light racks with normal fluorescent lights, I dropped a plastic
drop cloth over the
whole rack for weekends...this kept up the humidity and got the trees
through the weekend
without water for two days.
Here is a list of some of the trees that worked best for me under these
conditions.
Note that I always took them home for spring and put them outside once frost
passed...June here.
Also either I or a friendly
maintenance person watered them during school breaks.
Serissa
Ficus
Bucida
Carissa
Hedera
Boxwood
Ulmus
Gardenia

Have fun with them...my students loved them...I always put one on my desk
each day.
Pauline Muth
Zone 4