Theo Writes:

Hi
I was reading in Naka that Ammonuim sulphate can be given sparingly to
pines when they have a yellowish tint of teh needles..
my pentaphilla is always as such in this period of the year
what could I do to prevent that and when is teh best time and
quantitioes to be given or if exists something less *chemical *
producing the same effect
Thanks

Theo:

I NEVER apply Ammonium Sulphate to my pines. If you are experiencing a discoloration during the winter, it may simply be specific to the cultivar of Japanese white pine. For example, Kokonoe has a tendency to turn yellowish during the winter, with its greenish color returning in the spring and summer.

Be certain that you soil is fast draining and that you or mother nature is not overwatering the tree. In the spring, apply chemical (20-20-20) fertilizer as well as a modest number of slow releasing fertilizer cakes.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob

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Theo Writes:

Hi
I was reading in Naka that Ammonuim sulphate can be given sparingly to
pines when they have a yellowish tint of teh needles..
my pentaphilla is always as such in this period of the year
what could I do to prevent that and when is teh best time and
quantitioes to be given or if exists something less *chemical *
producing the same effect
Thanks

Theo:

I NEVER apply Ammonium Sulphate to my pines. If you are experiencing a discoloration during the winter, it may simply be specific to the cultivar of Japanese white pine. For example, Kokonoe has a tendency to turn yellowish during the winter, with its greenish color returning in the spring and summer.

Be certain that you soil is fast draining and that you or mother nature is not overwatering the tree. In the spring, apply chemical (20-20-20) fertilizer as well as a modest number of slow releasing fertilizer cakes.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob

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HI Michael

Michael Persiano wrote:

Theo Writes:

Hi
I was reading in Naka that Ammonuim sulphate can be given sparingly to
pines when they have a yellowish tint of teh needles..
my pentaphilla is always as such in this period of the year
what could I do to prevent that and when is teh best time and
quantitioes to be given or if exists something less *chemical *
producing the same effect
Thanks

Theo:

I NEVER apply Ammonium Sulphate to my pines.

If you are experiencing a discoloration during the winter,

it may simply be specific to the cultivar of Japanese white pine.

For example, Kokonoe has a tendency to turn yellowish during the winter,

It is a kokonoe . thanks for the answer

with its greenish color returning in the spring and summer.

Be certain that you soil is fast draining and that you or mother

nature is not overwatering the tree.
the soil is ok and I do not overwater


In the spring, apply chemical (20-20-20)

I have Peters 20-20-20


fertilizer as well as a modest number of slow releasing fertilizer cakes.
I have them as well

Thanks a lot for your information , so all is normal


MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4
Private Mail :
«»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«»

i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE LEAVES

--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:17 PM, Steve wachs wrote:

i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS
THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE
LEAVES

--
SteveW
Long Island NY


It would be iron, which is sometimes what a needle evergreen needs when
it turns yellowish. No other nutrients than that AFAIK.

Craig Cowing
NY
Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37

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We also have to understand that nutrients interact. By adding lots of
one nutrient to the soil can change the effect of others. By adding lots
of iron (Fe) to the soil it will make it more difficult for the plant to
take up manganese (Mn) and vice versa. There is often enough iron in the
soil/fertilizer but it´s difficult for plants to use it, especially if
the soil has a high pH.
And sometimes a lush green foliage can also suggest nutrient deficiency
as in the case with phosphorus (P).
Using a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients is the best way to go in
most cases.

Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden

Mac User wrote:

On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:17 PM, Steve wachs wrote:

i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS
THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE
LEAVES

--
SteveW
Long Island NY


It would be iron, which is sometimes what a needle evergreen needs when
it turns yellowish. No other nutrients than that AFAIK.

Craig Cowing
NY
Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37

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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

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We also have to understand that nutrients interact. By adding lots of
one nutrient to the soil can change the effect of others. By adding lots
of iron (Fe) to the soil it will make it more difficult for the plant to
take up manganese (Mn) and vice versa. There is often enough iron in the
soil/fertilizer but it´s difficult for plants to use it, especially if
the soil has a high pH.
And sometimes a lush green foliage can also suggest nutrient deficiency
as in the case with phosphorus (P).
Using a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients is the best way to go in
most cases.

Henrik Gistvall, Uppsala, Sweden

Mac User wrote:

On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:17 PM, Steve wachs wrote:

i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS
THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE
LEAVES

--
SteveW
Long Island NY


It would be iron, which is sometimes what a needle evergreen needs when
it turns yellowish. No other nutrients than that AFAIK.

Craig Cowing
NY
Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37

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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

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HI
it is the iron contained in the nail but it takes time you can put a
bounch of nails and put water over it will rost and than give the
water to the plants
but using sequesterene or concentrated pine bark is as good and
even better and is mainly for acidphile plants like gardenia Rhodos
camellias
In my case was not a problem of Chlorosis it is the winther and
variety of plant that do that
Thanks anyway


Steve wachs wrote:
i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE LEAVES


--
MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4
Private Mail :
«»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«»

HI
it is the iron contained in the nail but it takes time you can put a
bounch of nails and put water over it will rost and than give the
water to the plants
but using sequesterene or concentrated pine bark is as good and
even better and is mainly for acidphile plants like gardenia Rhodos
camellias
In my case was not a problem of Chlorosis it is the winther and
variety of plant that do that
Thanks anyway


Steve wachs wrote:
i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE LEAVES


--
MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4
Private Mail :
«»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«»

HI
it is the iron contained in the nail but it takes time you can put a
bounch of nails and put water over it will rost and than give the
water to the plants
but using sequesterene or concentrated pine bark is as good and
even better and is mainly for acidphile plants like gardenia Rhodos
camellias
In my case was not a problem of Chlorosis it is the winther and
variety of plant that do that
Thanks anyway


Steve wachs wrote:
i HEARD IT SAID THAT PUTTING AN OLD NAIL IN THE SOIL WITH PINES HAS THE SAME EFFECT. ADDS NUTIRENTS THAT INTENSIFIES THE COLOR IN THE LEAVES


--
MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4
Private Mail :
«»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«»

It would take a very long time for the nail to break down. slow and steady
is a good thing.

SteveW

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It would take a very long time for the nail to break down. slow and steady
is a good thing.

SteveW

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On 14 Jan 2005 at 10:18, Steven Wachs wrote:

It would take a very long time for the nail to break down. slow and steady
is a good thing.



Since I have gazillions of used horseshoe nails left lying
around in the barn and since I don't want them in my or my dog's
or family's feet, I pick them up when I see them. They're very
basic, soft, iron and rust quickly.

I do not know if the nail-in-the-pot theory is folklore, pure
hooey, or what, but I often stick a few in the pot with my
azaleas and gardenias which are the plants that will develop
chlorosis first.

The chlorosis seems to diminish -- though I'm also taking other,
more standard, steps.

FWIW, which isn't much.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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On 14 Jan 2005 at 10:18, Steven Wachs wrote:

It would take a very long time for the nail to break down. slow and steady
is a good thing.



Since I have gazillions of used horseshoe nails left lying
around in the barn and since I don't want them in my or my dog's
or family's feet, I pick them up when I see them. They're very
basic, soft, iron and rust quickly.

I do not know if the nail-in-the-pot theory is folklore, pure
hooey, or what, but I often stick a few in the pot with my
azaleas and gardenias which are the plants that will develop
chlorosis first.

The chlorosis seems to diminish -- though I'm also taking other,
more standard, steps.

FWIW, which isn't much.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Hi Theo,

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 17:46:14 +0100, Theo wrote:
I know that exist
different varieties of color in Pentaphilla needles , but I often see
them in review with a stronger deep green color.. so I was wonderning
how to enhance it and if it was possible an d ask advice before making
a predicament


(snip)

might be
but in the competitions or pictures they look so wildly strong green
that makes me jalous :-D


There is a very high probability that the pictures of pines you see in
reviews, competitions, and other publications were taken at a time of year
other than winter. Therefore the color of the trees would have been the
bright green of trees in active or semi-active growth. As mentioned by
others, evergreens such ar pines, spruces, junipers, firs, and others that
have a cold/cool dormant period will have dull foliage and may even change
color (various species of juniper will take on a brown or purple cast until
spring). Comparing dull winter foliage to spring/summer/fall bright foliage
is an exercise in frustration.

Best wishes in bonsai,
Les Dowdell
whose brown and purple junipers are covered with white in zone 3a.

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